<guide>
<header autonumber="true" camping="Camping with limited facilities can be found at Killiecrankie Bay. To book a spot at this privately owned camping area contact Jude on 03 6359 8464. Walking from Judes Place to the main crag takes 75 minutes, although Diamond Gully and Billy Goat Bluff are closer. <br/><br/>The area is seeing increased traffic among walkers, and locals and land managers are increasingly concerned regarding impacts, toileting, and fire. Please ensure your activities around the cliff are kept low key and discrete. The old hut site where people used to camp is now frequently visited by walkers and tourists.<br/><br/>" access="On the north east coast of Flinders Island, which is in the middle of Bass Strait. There are flights from both Launceston and Melbourne that arrive in Whitemark on Flinders Island. You can hire a car on the Island (expensive) or try and get a ride up to Killiekrankie. There's a new road that comes into the north of the cliffs, and its about a half hours walk from the end of the road along the shore. The cliff is set back about 400m from the coast. <br/><br/>Although it may seem as if you're at the ends of the earth, The Dock and Killicrankie is a very special place to many locals and folks off the island. Please try to represent climbers in as positive light as you can! :) <br/><br/>If you are leaving a car at the docks it is important you leave a note on your dash indicating you are climbers - otherwise people may assume you are camping nearby at the docks and raise unnecessary concerns with land managers. " acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Mt Killiekrankie is a large granite crag on Flinders Island in Bass Strait that has more than 200 climbs on excellent rock. <br/><br/>It is predominantly a trad climbing cliff utilizing removable protection and threads as much as possible. Bolts may be placed for anchors when threads are not forthcoming and the route is sufficiently popular to warrant them. Please do not place bolts which are not stainless steel. Whilst there are some excellent sport climbs on the Island already bolts on routes are to be avoided unless the route is superb and the addition of bolts will not be visually detracting.<br/><br/>The first ascent of naturally protected routes should be done placing the gear on lead. Fixed protection should only be used on sport climbs in preference to placing additional bolts. Retro bolting is strictly frowned upon without consultation. <br/><br/>A significant amount of work has been done by a select group of climbers unearthing and re-recording old climbs and equipping new routes. Some of that information can be found here on thesarvo or in third edition of the Climb Tasmania Guide. Please be respectful of the time they have put it if you're choosing to copy these routes onto the crag. " new="false" rock="Compact, fine grained granite up to about 100m high." sun="Afternoon sun" walk="About half and hour" id="1" name="Flinders Island"/>
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<text new="false" id="2" class="indentedHeader">Guide: Climb Northern Tasmania (out of print) by Bob McMahon and Gerry Narkowicz contains a valiant effort in putting together a comprehensive guide to the island but still requires a Phd. in guide-book-oglyphics to find anything but the most obvious lines. The most recent Climb Tasmania guide has a decent selection of routes and includes mostly true information, it's a definite improvement. Thecrag.com is hardly worth mentioning and I hope their servers crash soon.<br/><br/>There are scores of routes that have been recorded in Climb northern Tasmania which ultimately was a spruced up version of Steve Craddocks guide from 1987 Alot of the routes are probably not worth repeating but there are un-doubtly a hand full of gems that could be dug up and re-recorded for the benefit of climbers to come. If one is interested in making first ascents its worth perusing these documents if you can get your hands on them. Unfortunately due to a plethora of reasons, many old routes will never truly be shined up because the cryptic nature of their route descriptions. Trying to find 'the prickly bush' or the 'obvious short upside down left facing corner beneath a dead hakea on pitch 5', 40 years after the first ascent is ultimately only a subjectively possible task and you might just be better using the guide to establish dialogue with a passing pod of dolphins.</text>
<text id="433" class="heading1">The Dock</text>
<text id="434" class="text">There are some ok routes at The Dock but generally the rock is average. It can be easy to get sucked in here because of it's proximity to the car park. I encourage you to keep walking along the coast!</text>
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<climb id="4" name="Gravel Road" number="1." grade="16" length="25m" stars="*" extra="" fa="">A fun little route with decent pro for the grade 16 leader. Several short cruxes with nice finish make it interesting.<br/><br/>Farthest route on the left before heading up gulley to summit.</climb>
<climb id="3" name="Dykes at the Docks" fa="" extra="" number="2." grade="17" length="35m" stars="">A fun climb with a few carrots. Single trubolt added at top of dykes at the docks with mallion to amend existing expansion with chain links Dec 2017</climb>
<climb id="352" name="J.U.G.S. ( Jump Up Gravelley Slopers)" fa="Nick Hancock 2004" extra="" number="3." grade="25" length="20m" stars="">Climb the overhanging intermittent cracks on the left side of the back wall of Dykes at the Docks, via 5 bolts to a DBB.</climb>
<climb id="349" name="Big Wide Dyke" fa="FFA John Fischer, Simon Bischoff, Alex Hartshorne 6th December 2014" extra="Þ" number="4." grade="27" length="25m" stars="*">Probably not the worst route at the docks but fairly consistent with the the general quality of the area. Better off heading down to the main cliff :) <br/>10m left of BOOB is a broken slanting wide crack that leads to a short overhang. Turn this with difficulty to a vague rest on R and then climb the crystally seam that takes stonker gear. Step left at the top and grab the jug rail at the top of the cliff (crux). The big cracks take plenty of gear up to 4 and 5 camalots but surprisingly require no OW technique. The higher seam takes small cams and medium to small wires. DBB.</climb>
<climb id="5" name="B.O.O.B. (Bag of old bones)" fa="" extra="" number="5." grade="20" length="25m" stars="*"><br/>GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = B.O.O.B.)</climb>
<text id="337" class="heading2">Red Wall</text>
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<legend>
<climb>13</climb>
<climb>14</climb>
<climb>15</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="13" name="A Bolt From the Blue" number="6." grade="21" length="45m" stars="*" extra="" fa=""/>
<climb id="14" name="High Stepping Stone" fa="" extra="" number="7." grade="18" length="45m" stars="*"/>
<climb id="15" name="Morrison of Peking" number="8." grade="19" length="45m" stars=""/>
<climb id="414" stars="**" extra="" number="9." name="Jack Jumper aka paradise prow" length="18" grade="24" fa="Patrick Munnings 2021">The route follows the line indicated as Paradise Prow in the climb Northern Tasmania guidebook, but now sports 6 bolts and a new name. South west facing wall at end of The Docks crag. DBB</climb>
<climb id="17" name="T.I.T.S. (Tasmania's Incredibly Tiny Serpentine)" fa="Nick Hancock Dec 2002" extra="Þ" number="10." grade="24" length="15m" stars="**">GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = TITS)<br/>Climb the stunning North face of the top block at the Docks. Four U bolts to a single U bolt belay.</climb>
<image id="294" legendTitle="Suspension Trauma Area" legend="true" width="1200" height="800" src="Flinders Island Topos - Suspension Trauma.jpg">
<drawing>
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<path id="52708" linkedTo="293" d="M958.0,318.0C949.2,274.8 944.8,253.2 936.0,210.0" points="958.0,318.0, 936.0,210.0,"/>
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<legend>
<climb>19</climb>
<climb>293</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="19" name="Suspension Trauma" number="11." grade="M4" length="25m" stars=""/>
<climb id="293" name="If you give a Moose a Muffin" fa="Simon Bischoff and Tierney O’sullivan Dec 2014" extra="" number="12." grade="23" length="15m" stars="*">The shorter tombstone buttress around 50m to the right of suspension trauma cave with a splitter running up the middle. Harder than it looks.</climb>
<text id="316" class="heading2">Toblerone Area</text>
<image id="318" legendy="7" legendx="7" legendTitle="Toblerone Area" legend="true" width="600" height="900" src="Flinders Island Topos - Toblerone.jpg">
<drawing>
<path id="8742" linkedTo="317" d="M170.0,524.0C176.8,500.0 180.9,488.2 187.0,464.0C193.1,439.8 195.1,419.0 204.0,390.0C212.9,361.0 233.9,306.9 243.0,282.0C252.1,257.1 256.8,244.8 266.0,220.0" points="170.0,524.0, 187.0,464.0, 204.0,390.0, 243.0,282.0, 266.0,220.0,lower"/>
<path id="26587" linkedTo="319" d="M379.0,795.0C369.4,770.6 361.3,749.0 355.0,734.0C348.7,719.0 346.4,710.9 338.0,697.0C329.6,683.1 312.9,661.0 301.0,645.0C289.1,629.0 281.2,618.7 270.0,606.0C258.8,593.3 252.0,588.0 240.0,576.0" points="379.0,795.0, 355.0,734.0, 338.0,697.0, 301.0,645.0, 270.0,606.0, 240.0,576.0,belay"/>
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<legend>
<climb>319</climb>
<climb>317</climb>
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</image>
<climb id="319" name="Bounty" fa="Anna-Veronique L'hoest, Alex Hartshorne 11th December 2014" extra="Þ" number="13." grade="19" length="15m" stars="*">Fun route by itself but really a warm up and access for Toblerone. Dark friction slab below the pyramid of granite candy. 4 bolts. You can belay easily from the giant she oak.</climb>
<climb id="317" name="Toblerone" fa="Anna-Veronique L'hoest, Alex Hartshorne 11th December 2014" extra="4Þ" number="14." grade="21" length="18m" stars="*">Summits the amazing candy shaped chunk of granite that stands out on the Killiecrankie skyline. ~15 minutes walk from the end of 4wd track at the docks. Can be viewed briefly from the last clearing on the track. The best way to get there is up the cairned drainage gully (the third one along the track). Follow this easily up to a wombat hole and another cairn then bash for about 5 meters to another clearing and head directly to the base of Bounty. Climb Bounty to access or scramble around left (but who would?) Ascends the left arête and face via excellent friction climbing to gain the one foot wide ridge at the top. Amazing. 4 bolts to DBB.<br/>GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = Toblerone)</climb>
<text id="320" class="heading2">Suck Me up the Funnel of Death</text>
<image id="321" legendy="6" legendx="7" legendTitle="Suck Me up the Funnel of Death" legend="true" width="1200" height="800" src="Flinders Island Topos - Suck Me Up the Funnel of Death.jpg">
<drawing>
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<legend>
<climb>24</climb>
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</image>
<climb id="24" name="Suck Me up the Funnel of Death" fa="Nick Hancock Jan 2003" extra="9Þ" number="15." grade="27" length="25m" stars="**"/>
<header id="388" name="Main Cliff" walk="" sun="" rock="" acknowledgement="" intro="The main Killiecrankie cliff and surrounds begins with the Far Eastern Gulley. There are several dozen mostly moderate routes in the gully, but apparently few have ventured into it since the early ascents in the 90's, so trails have returned to bushbash.<br/><br/>Skye Descent Gulley is the major gulley on the right side of the main cliff with a number of routes, at the top is Blue Skies Coming, a recommended route. It is also the descent for many of the routes that go to the top of the cliff.<br/><br/>Next you have Skye Buttress and Beagle Buttress, with quality short routes that can be rappelled.<br/><br/>Moving to the right the main wall is intersected with three slabs: Pyramid Slab, Shining Slab, and Bruce's Wall.<br/>To the right of Pyramid Slab is the Skull, a obviously named feature and the locale of many hard overhangs, and between The Skull and Shining Slab is a steep section with "Trust me, I'm an idiot", the Diamond Traverse and Jaws crack. <br/><br/>The dozen or so moderate routes on Shining Slab and Bruce's Wall are not well known, so first photos below are of that section." history="" access="" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
<climb id="54" name="Blue Skies Coming" number="16." grade="20" length="40m" stars="**"/>
<text id="304" class="heading2">Skye Buttress</text>
<image id="305" legendTitle="Skye Buttress" legend="true" width="1200" height="800" src="Flinders Island Topos - Skye Buttress.jpg" legendx="959" legendy="48">
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<legend>
<climb>54</climb>
<climb>58</climb>
<climb>303</climb>
<climb>348</climb>
<climb>60</climb>
<climb>430</climb>
<climb>347</climb>
<climb>346</climb>
<climb>63</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="58" name="Swell Corner" number="17." grade="17" length="20m" stars="" extra="" fa="Peter Cunningham and Stuart Willis 3rd January 1984">Unfortunately not so swell. Starts at the foot of the corner on the front of the LH skye buttress. Climb up over the ledge, up the corner to short wall and to the top.</climb>
<climb id="303" name="Golden Presents" fa="Squib Feb 2015" extra="" number="18." grade="24" length="20m" stars="*">The thin seam to the right of Swell corner and to the left of the obvious arete. Technical climbing on great rock with bomber gear. First rapped and cleaned by Simon Bischoff and gifted to squib when he visited the island. Ascend easy terrain and make a belay below the big ledge where the seam begins. Bolted anchor at the top.</climb>
<climb id="348" name="Lalla Rooke" fa="" extra="" number="19." grade="??" length="??" stars="">Hamish Jackson project<br/>Thin crack 3-4m left of Pain toy. 2 BR</climb>
<climb id="60" name="Pain Toy" fa="" extra="" number="20." grade="21" length="35m" stars="***">GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = Pain Toy)</climb>
<climb id="430" stars="" extra="" number="21." name="Twitching Hard" length="" grade="25" fa="J. Bresnehan">Up from hanging belay for 5 bolts. Access either via first half of pain toy or by flight of the moonbird.</climb>
<climb id="347" name="The Spirit Level" fa="" extra="" number="22." grade="??" length="??" stars="">Hamish Jackson project<br/>Arete right of pain toy, 3 BR so far, needs more, plus has some natural. it will end at same point as pain toy (anchors installed), possibly will be split as 2 pitches. and has two alternate starts either side of arete (see BR left of arete near start)</climb>
<climb id="346" name="Flight of the Moon bird" fa="H.jackson" extra="" number="23." grade="18" length="" stars="">Traverses the massive rising diagonal (right to left) out of Rock and Roll. Pitch 1 to arete (done in 1995 by me, but back climbed as descent). Pitch 2 Project goes around arete via BR and onto finish on Skye ledge (scramble off)</climb>
<text id="282" class="heading2">Beagle Buttress</text>
<climb id="63" name="Shake, Rattle and Roll" number="24." grade="25" length="75m" stars=""/>
<image id="322" legendTitle="Beagle Buttress" legend="true" width="600" height="900" src="Flinders Island Topos - Beagle Buttress.jpg">
<drawing>
<path id="17251" linkedTo="66" d="M192.0,776.0C173.6,659.2 153.5,534.3 146.0,484.0C138.5,433.7 130.4,405.9 130.0,358.0C129.6,310.1 126.7,264.6 144.0,239.0C161.3,213.4 216.6,255.7 220.0,225.0" points="192.0,776.0, 146.0,484.0, 130.0,358.0, 144.0,239.0, 220.0,225.0,lower"/>
<path id="36336" linkedTo="67" d="M566.0,876.0C552.4,841.2 546.0,823.6 532.0,789.0C518.0,754.4 507.5,728.1 490.0,688.0C472.5,647.9 452.7,604.5 444.0,587.0C435.3,569.5 424.5,563.8 419.0,545.0C413.5,526.2 414.7,505.9 416.0,492.0C417.3,478.1 424.0,472.6 427.0,459.0C430.0,445.4 433.0,437.4 431.0,423.0C429.0,408.6 425.5,393.3 416.0,380.0C406.5,366.7 396.7,364.9 383.0,356.0C369.3,347.1 349.2,341.0 331.0,325.0C312.8,309.0 308.8,291.0 289.0,273.0C269.2,255.0 216.6,254.7 220.0,224.0" points="566.0,876.0, 532.0,789.0, 490.0,688.0, 444.0,587.0, 419.0,545.0, 416.0,492.0, 427.0,459.0, 431.0,423.0, 416.0,380.0, 383.0,356.0, 331.0,325.0, 289.0,273.0, 220.0,224.0,"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>66</climb>
<climb>67</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="66" name="Willy the Wimp" number="25." grade="18" length="20m" stars="*"/>
<climb id="67" name="That Sinking Feeling" number="26." grade="17" length="20m" stars="*" extra="" fa="">Double fixed hangers added at top of WtW and TSF</climb>
<climb id="68" name="Beagle Rock" number="27." grade="17" length="118m" stars="*" extra="" fa=""/>
<text id="397" class="heading2">Pyramid Slab</text>
<image id="399" width="800" height="1201" printLayout="FitToPage" src="pyramid front.jpg">
<drawing>
<path id="20520" points="140.0,1115.0, 143.0,1031.0, 180.0,957.0, 210.0,848.0, 239.0,738.0, 282.0,710.0,belay" d="M140.0,1115.0C141.2,1081.4 134.9,1063.1 143.0,1031.0C151.1,998.9 168.6,988.1 180.0,957.0C191.4,925.9 198.2,891.7 210.0,848.0C221.8,804.3 229.5,756.2 239.0,738.0C248.5,719.8 274.6,729.1 282.0,710.0" linkedTo="435"/>
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<legend>
<climb>435</climb>
<climb>437</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="435" stars="*" extra="" number="28." name="Holding back the years" length="28m" grade="17" fa="C. Baxter and D. Gairns 3.1.87">Starts at undercut weekness three metres left of golden streak. Pull over over lap from loose blocks onto a slaby wall. Up and right to twin cracks and easier ground and Belay. The pitch originally finished here but is arguably a nicer way to access the second slab pitch of golden streak.</climb>
<climb id="437" stars="*" extra="" number="29." name="Golden Streak" length="118m" grade="17" fa="G. Lovejoy S. Craddock 27.1.85">First couple of pitches seem quite good.</climb>
<text id="331" class="heading2">Skull Walls</text>
<image id="336" legendy="15" legendx="9" legendTitle="Skull Walls" legend="true" width="1200" height="800" src="Flinders Island Topos - Skull Walls.jpg">
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<image id="332" legendTitle="Skull Walls Left Hand Side" legend="true" width="600" height="900" src="Flinders Island Topos - Skull Walls Left.jpg">
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<climb>81</climb>
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<climb id="333" name="Socket Rocket" fa="Niels Tietze & Liz Oh Feb 2015" extra="" number="30." grade="20" length="50" stars="*">1 move wonder through a cool feature. (No gear on top slab)</climb>
<climb id="80" name="Highbrow" number="31." grade="17" length="63m" stars=""/>
<climb id="81" name="Crossbones" number="32." grade="18" length="40m" stars=""/>
<climb id="82" name="Haggis" number="33." grade="19" length="32m" stars=""/>
<text id="438" class="heading1">The Goonies Cave</text>
<text id="439" class="text">Fantastic steep granite climbing like no other place in Australia. Mike law contributed the first two routes to the area, Diana Palmer and Phantom. Both fantastic excursions. Many years later (2015) Niels Tietze and Liz Oh climbed the blisteringly obvious and epic 'Lion heart'. On the same trip Crazy John made the first ascent of Truffle shuffle. A magnificent route which requires almost every trick in the book. Recently Simon Bischoff has added Tiktaalik, a more direct sustained start to the head-wall of Diana Palma and Hard Candy.</text>
<climb id="424" stars="*" extra="" number="34." name="Hard Candy" length="20m" grade="24" fa="Simon Bischoff 2023">The steep line left of Phantom. Not as tricky as phantom but a little more sustained. At the final roof move directly left until it eases off rather than trying to follow the crack directly through the roof. Move back right to the anchor of phantom. All gear.</climb>
<climb id="84" name="Phantom" number="35." grade="25" length="20m" stars="**" extra="" fa="Mike Law 1996">The brilliant first pitch can be done without venturing to the top thanks to a new lower off anchor. Good conditions can be found on this route later in the day once a bit of sun-light has gotten into the deepest part of the chimney. All gear</climb>
<image id="330" legendTitle="Goonies Cave" legend="true" width="600" height="900" src="Flinders Island Topos - Goonies Cave.jpg">
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<climb>424</climb>
<climb>84</climb>
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<climb id="327" name="Lion Heart" fa="Niels Tietze & Liz Oh Feb 2015" extra="" number="36." grade="25" length="25m" stars="***">Up face, through roof to crux pulling a move to a flaring hand crack. Underling and offwidth the crack above roof till able to move right and climb face to DBB</climb>
<climb id="85" name="Diana Palmer" number="37." grade="26" length="25m" stars="**" extra="" fa="Mike Law 1996">Up through roof past an old bolt and a new one. Through flake jugs and onto head wall. Up head-wall past two carrots and a desperate crux before the lower off. Route has been climbed without the use of the carrots as there are good nut runners to be found.</climb>
<climb id="425" stars="***" extra="" number="38." name="Tiktaalik" length="25m" grade="27" fa="Simon Bischoff 2023">Up to thread, through steep groove and a rest where the route crosses truffle shuffle. Up via a sequence of Procul Harem style knee bars to reach a decent rest before the crux through the bulge. Once onto the the wall move left into Diana Palma. First ascent climbed ground up placing all gear and without use of the bolts on Diana Palma</climb>
<climb id="328" name="Truffle Shuffle" fa="Crazy John Fischer 22 Feb. 2015" extra="" number="39." grade="29" length="25m" stars="***">In the big cave right of Diana Palmer. Tie into 2 ropes. Up to first bolt of Diana Palmer. Traverse R a few metres and then downwards and out the 10 metre roof. At the lip of the roof, wack in double knee bars, place a nest of gear for the 2nd rope then chuck off your first rope and finish up the crux 10 metre overhanging headwall taking the L hand crack.<br/>All gear + or - the bolt on Diana Palmer to DBB</climb>
<climb id="426" stars="" extra="" number="40." name="Closed project " length="" grade="31?" fa=""/>
<text id="307" class="heading2">Skull Walls - Right Hand Side</text>
<image id="308" legendTitle="Skull Walls - Right Hand Side" legend="true" width="600" height="900" src="Flinders Island Topos - Skull Walls - Right Hand Side.jpg">
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<legend>
<climb>86</climb>
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<climb>88</climb>
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<climb id="86" name="Apes in Space" number="41." grade="21" length="20m" stars="**"/>
<climb id="306" name="Squibs Slab" fa="Squib and Danger Darren Feb 2015" extra="" number="42." grade="22" length="45m" stars="*">Extremely run out climbing on the second half of the route... Start up apes in space, but instead of traversing out left continue blasting up the face until you reach the last good runner. Then head off boldly up the proud arête until you reach the rappel for trust me I’m an idiot. It was top roped prior to the first ascent.<br/></climb>
<climb id="88" name="Trust Me, I'm an Idiot" fa="Mark Colyvan and E. Bieske 19th january 1984" extra="" number="43." grade="20" length="68m" stars="***">Great, a must do. Lower off two U bolts next to old thread. <br/>GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = Trust Me I'm an Idiot)</climb>
<climb id="309" name="Heart of stone" fa="Simon Bischoff Feb 2015" extra="Þ" number="44." grade="26" length="30m" stars="***">Fully bolted. Line of bolts to the right of trust me I’m an idiot. Varied climbing with a technical crux at half height followed by an amazing flaked roof with a powerful finish.<br/></climb>
<climb id="87" name="Diamond Traverse" number="45." grade="22" length="60m" stars="**" extra="R." fa="FA Robert Staszewski and Wayne Maher 2nd January 1985. Rests on pitches 2 and 3 eliminated by Simon Bischoff and Daniel Hazell October 2020">P1 15m. Climb Chimney and Belay where the crack steepens into TMIAI.<br/><br/>P2 21 R. 20m. Traverse R and slightly downwards Cross Heart of stone. Follow dyke until you can climb upwards to belay at the apex of the diamond overlap with no pro for final 6 metres.<br/><br/>P2 22 25m. Follow undercling flake, climbing down slightly through the central over lap. Once the crack of Jaws is gained, continue up into alcove and thread to rap off.<br/></climb>
<climb id="89" name="Jaws" number="46." grade="21" length="86m" stars="" extra="" fa=" Robert Stazewski, Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham 31.12.84">The major line at the R end of the diamond traverse roofs.<br/>1. 36m Through the small roofs and up to the large chockstones to belay, or belay on the left arete.<br/>2. 50m Ignore the crack line above, step R across the gully, traverse 15m, then follow the shallow groove up to easy ground.</climb>
<text id="376" class="heading1">The Brain Area</text>
<image id="373" src="the brain.jpg" height="400" width="600">
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<climb>372</climb>
<climb>375</climb>
<climb>108</climb>
<climb>109</climb>
<climb>382</climb>
<climb>383</climb>
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<climb id="107" name="Persistence" number="47." grade="14" length="15m" stars="" extra="" fa=" Robert Stazewski Solo 2.1.86">Low angle Crackline marked with a P below the brain. Originally granded 17, but probably knock 2 or 3 grades off. Nice little low grade ramble and a fun way to go check the brain out.</climb>
<climb id="372" stars="" extra="" number="48." name="Plonker" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Hannah Vasiliades and Simon Bischoff 22.08.20">Start up Persistence to first ledge then traverse a couple metres right and head up the cracked face, take the line of jugs slightly to the left near the top.</climb>
<climb id="375" stars="**" extra="" number="49." name="Mr Rumpy Pumpy" length="50" grade="18" fa="Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades 20.08.20">This ones got lots of character. The Chimney on the right side of the buttress below The Brain. <br/><br/>1. 20m (18) Ascend the plank ladder until you can reach high enough to stuff a 5 in the crack. Use the #5 to pull yourself up into the chimney proper. It is suggested using some micro cams in the seem beside the ladder as Alex Hartshorne took a ladder fall on the second ascent when multiple rungs on the ladder exploded. The ships carpenter has been fired. Once in the chimney there is ample protection. Belay below the over hang.<br/>2. 10m (16) Thrutch beautifully through the roof. Once over the top continue 4 or so metres up the crack to a good belay on the right side of the cave.<br/>3. 20m (12) Cross the cave and traverse out left over the big hanging nose. Continue over the lip and traverse easily over to the rap for tumour (thread).</climb>
<climb id="108" name="Left Brain Dominant" number="50." grade="16" length="10m" stars="*" extra="" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson 7.1.95">Starts at the furthest L of the main floor of the brain (as opposed to lower down and left). Tend L to climb hanging arete in good position.</climb>
<climb id="109" name="uhm yea" number="51." grade="22" length="10m" stars="*" extra="" fa="Simon Bischoff">Climbed entirely on threads. Reach up for thread straight off the ground. Pull through the roof and have a a sling at the ready the throw through the next thread. Pull through to easier ground. Lower off last thread.</climb>
<climb id="382" stars="**" extra="" number="52." name="Brain Fart " length="10m" grade="24" fa="Alex Hartshorne and Simon Bischoff September 2020">Takes the main line of the brain. Climb the Twin cracked roof. With a little knee bar trickery its not as diabolical as it looks. Rap of thread.</climb>
<climb id="383" stars="*" extra="" number="53." name="Bwain Dead" length="10m" grade="22" fa="Simon Bischoff and Alex Hartshorne September 2020 ">Fun 3D climbing. Climb the steep roof into chimney a couple metres R of twin cracked rood (Brain Fart). Two bolts down low, careful clipping the second one, a few intermediate cams might help. Rap of thread as for Brain Fart.</climb>
<climb id="110" name="Lobotomy" number="54." grade="25" length="15m" stars="**" extra="" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson 7.1.95">Starts at the back of the brain just to the R of a thin crack. This is about 4m right of the twin cracks and 8 m R of real brainy. Head out L at the base of the hanging corner of pitch 1 of tumour (about 9m) to swing onto the L wall of the bottomless chimney (crux). Abseil from sling at the back R of the short gully at the top. Excellent and unusual climbing.</climb>
<climb id="111" name="Tumour" number="55." grade="24" length="28m" stars="***" extra="" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson">A truly incredible climb!<br/>1. (24) 18m Starts as for lobotomy. Climb the huge roof, tending R out past a three way tie off at 4m and on up the short hanging corner on the R. Head R across the lip of the cave to belay beneath suspended wide chimney and face in the very centre of the brain.<br/>2. (16) 10m Climb the brilliant face and chimney in an unrivalled position to easy ground above. Rap of thread.</climb>
<climb id="381" stars="**" extra="" number="56." name="Pinky (Tumour Direct)" length="20m" grade="24/25" fa="Alex Hartshorne and Simon Bischoff September 2020">Start up Tumour. Where tumour backs off and heads R to the belay go straight up through strenous bulge (crux). Continue up and over the lip. Rap off Bollard.</climb>
<climb id="112" name="Right Brain Dominant" number="57." grade="16" length="23m" stars=""/>
<text id="295" class="heading2">Campsite Area</text>
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<climb id="298" name="Stingray" fa="Simon Bischoff October 2020. " extra="Þ" number="58." grade="27" length="10m" stars="*">Bolted by Alex Hartshorne and climbed by Simon Bischoff. Short and powerful route in a perfect location. Sharp rock at the top detracts a bit.</climb>
<climb id="421" stars="" extra="" number="59." name="Merlin crack project" length="" grade="31+" fa="">Has been aided and tried by S. Bischoff. All the gear is there but it has an absolutely diablocal boulder problem on finger locks...an acquired taste.</climb>
<climb id="296" name="Killer Crank" fa="Nick Hancock Dec 2002" extra="" number="60." grade="27" length="7m" stars="***">The overhanging wall directly opposite the driftwood shack. A variant was done by Tommy Krauss and Simon Bischoff in 2015. After the big jump move (crux), move R onto the arete for a more sustained finish.</climb>
<climb id="297" name="A Flay at the Beach" fa="Nick Hancock Dec 2002" extra="" number="61." grade="21" length="7m" stars=""/>
<climb id="356" name="Red Snapper" fa="Nick Hancock 2004" extra="" number="62." grade="21" length="7m" stars=""/>
<climb id="300" name="Death or Gory" fa="Nick Hancock Jan 2003" extra="" number="63." grade="25" length="6m" stars=""/>
<climb id="301" name="Meat Jamaica" fa="Nick Hancock Dec 2002" extra="" number="64." grade="24" length="8m" stars=""/>
<text id="367" class="heading1">Don't Knock the Rock Cave Area.</text>
<text id="302" class="text"><br/>Some nice climbing here, most of the routes originally went to the summit however a rap anchor can be found in a slightly awkward spot on the left side of the ledge where most of the good climbing ends. The scramble down from the top of sunbeam is a little sketchy so you may want to rope up. It's a 40 m rap from here to the ground or if using a single rope you can rap to the left side of the wall and utilize a very memorable thread on the RHS of the brain.</text>
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<climb id="113" name="Killiecranking" number="65." grade="19" length="50m" stars="**" extra="" fa="Robert Staszewski, Wayne Maher 30.12.84">Great route with a couple of quite tricky sections on the traverse. <br/>1. Start behind the large block that leans up against the face. Climb up to below the roof and traverse left for 15 meters to a obvious thread belay. <br/>2. Follow the cracks and flakes to easy ground above and the large ledge with a rappel anchor on the left side. <br/><br/>An alternate solution to the first pitch can be found by heading straight from a small stance halfway through the traverse. Trend left and join the original line to belay. FA Simon Bischoff March 2019</climb>
<climb id="114" name="Cold Journey" number="66." grade="17" length="50m" stars="*" extra="" fa="Wayne Maher, John Pawson 13.1.83">Mostly moderate climbing with an interesting crux. <br/>1. Start up Armageddon and climb through the first roof. Move up and left onto the large flake on the left wall and traverse left in to the main line in middle of the wall. Follow the line to the ledge and rap anchors. <br/></climb>
<climb id="115" name="Armageddon" number="67." grade="18" length="50m" stars="**" extra="" fa="G.Baudinette, Stuart Willis 19.4.81">Really fun route. The main corner line.<br/>1. Start behind the large flake leaning up against the wall. Chimney up the slab with no pro until the corner is reached. Great crack climbing up the corner and through the roof. Either belay here or continue up the corner on the right at about 15, or slightly harder in the crack to the left. At the top of the corner head left across blank looking grey face to the rappel anchor.</climb>
<climb id="116" name="Sunbeam" number="68." grade="20" length="50m" stars="**" extra="" fa="Robert Staszewski, J Mendoza 7.1.85">climb through the roof as for Armageddon. Step right around the corner and follow cracks up the face. Belay in the gully above and to the right of the rappel anchors. Down climb 5 meters to get to the rappel anchors to get off.</climb>
<climb id="117" name="Don't Knock the Rock" number="69." grade="16" length="139m" stars="*"/>
<climb id="121" name="Over Balance" number="70." grade="18" length="55m" stars="*"/>
<climb id="122" name="Blue Skies" number="71." grade="18" length="55m" stars="**"/>
<climb id="125" name="Michael's Friend" number="72." grade="20" length="82m" stars="*" extra="" fa="">Was originally 14 and is probably still a sandbag at 20 to be honest. Don't let that put you off though (You've put me off)!<br/> <br/>The best way into the back of the chimney is to climb a short but fun pitch on the right wall. Generally speaking the chimney can be climbed two ways. Either get yourself in deep or climb the line up from the belay. Both options are great but run out and both deliver you at the same crux exiting the chimney where one may need to take ones helmet off to squeeze through. <br/><br/>Take double ropes to rap off a tree.</climb>
<text id="377" class="heading1">The Main Wall</text>
<image id="370" src="X.ray.jpg" height="667" width="1000">
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<climb>126</climb>
<climb>127</climb>
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<climb id="126" name="Mark Mark" number="73." grade="20" length="45m" stars="*" extra="" fa="Robert Staszewski and Mark Grundy 30.12.80">The left leaning crack left of BBMN.<br/>1. 40m (20) Follow the line and take the R hand crack near the top. May be better as two pitches.</climb>
<climb id="127" name="Braw Black Midnight Night" number="74." grade="15" length="110m" stars="**" extra="" fa="Stuart Willis, Ian Sedgman, D. Smith 7.3.81">Massive bloody chimney. Completely subterranean and unique. Can Rap off as for deb Ball rather than continue to the top.</climb>
<climb id="128" name="Deb Ball" number="75." grade="22" length="35m" stars="*" extra="" fa=" John Pawson, Robert Staszewski, Wayne Maher 25.12.86">Steep line to the right of Braw black midnight night. Rap of Tat and wire around chockstone. Was in good nick as of 16.08.20<br/><br/>1. 15m (16) up line to belay on ledge<br/>2. 20m (22) Follow line to the top</climb>
<climb id="134" name="Ejector" number="76." grade="23" length="22m" stars="" extra="" fa="Robert Staszewski 6.1.86">Offwidth crack 5m R of double diabolical. Climb strenuous and technical crack through the roof to easy ground. Rap of using bollard (Same as Sea shanty).</climb>
<climb id="135" name="Deep End" number="77." grade="16" length="60m" stars="*" extra="" fa="Stuart Willis, D.Smith, K.Rand 18.4.81">Originally went to the summit in four pitches. You can now make a 60m rap of a thread at the end of the third pitch. If climbing without double ropes a second thread can be found to the left of the belay for pitch two.<br/><br/>Start in the scooped chimney 10m R of ejector (offwidth).<br/><br/>1. 20m (12) Bridge up the chimney to the roof, exit it to the R and head up to belay on the LHS of the cave.<br/>2. 20m (12) Traverse L into crack and up until airy move brings you to a sloping ledge on the right. cross this and climb up crack to belay in the chimney/Cave<br/>3. 20m (16) Continue up the steep groove directly above. Thread can be found 6 metres below the cave to rappel. Or continue to the cave and make another easy pitch to top out.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="420" stars="**" extra="" number="78." name="Daddy Issues" length="8m" grade="23" fa="Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades June 2022">Epic if you're into this sort of thing. Start at the back of the cave and squirm your way through the roof trench using a fine assortment of techniques. Nothing bigger than a #4 cam needed. Best to back clean.</climb>
<climb id="139" name="Smile For Me" number="79." grade="21" length="70m" stars="" extra="" fa="Robert Staszewski and J. Mendoza 4.1.85">1. (21) 20m. climb the cracks in the wall R of X-ray.<br/>2. 25m. Move left following two diagonal cracks, the follow crack up to cave.<br/>3. 25m. Move L through the roof then R onto the arete.<br/>get off some how... <br/></climb>
<climb id="371" stars="*" extra="" number="80." name="Kathy Rindhoops" length="35m" grade="21" fa="Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades 2020">1. (21) Climb crack on RHS of chimney to Belay (Same first pitch as smile for me).<br/>2. (17) Traverse right and up to the crux and continue heading right to a lower off over The far away tree.</climb>
<text id="379" class="heading1">Central Gully</text>
<climb id="385" stars="**" extra="" number="81." name="The Magical Far-away Tree" length="20m" grade="23" fa="Hannah Vasiliades and Simon Bischoff October 2020">First route in Central gully (LHS). Climb the ladder out of the bushes and onto the beautiful wall with five U bolts and some finger and hand sized cams near the top. Pre-clipping the second bolt is suggested.</climb>
<climb id="456" stars="" extra="" number="82." name="Vassiloppolos" length="25" grade="14" fa="Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades 26.1.24">Up right leaning ramp to gully. Lower of tat on tree in gully.</climb>
<climb id="455" stars="" extra="" number="83." name="Crystal Gully left variant" length="25m " grade="15" fa="Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades 26.1.24">Climb wall 4-5m left of crystal gully on good rock and veer into upper corner of crystal gully pitch one. Not a bad pitch despite the lack of pro and the odd tussock at half height.</climb>
<climb id="453" stars="" extra="" number="84." name="Crystal Gully" length="120" grade="19 MO" fa="FA Peter Cunningham, Ian Sedgeman 3.3.86">At the extreme top off central gully climb the left leaning crack which is overhanging at the start.<br/>1. 25m. The left facing crack with a point of aid used at 6 metres on the first ascent. Belay from some tat in the gully.<br/>2. 25m. Up the scrub veering right to belay on the two blocks on the R edge of the gully.<br/>3. 50m. Move right around to the buttress and up a steep gully.<br/>4. 20m. Finish the gully by scrambling on to the arete.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="457" stars="*" extra="" number="85." name="Homicidal Wallalby" length="25m" grade="23" fa="Simon Bischoff 26.1.24">Start by making a committing move sideways to a flat jug, move up and right and into crack system where the first gear can be found. From here straight up the crack and flake which leads to an unlikely traverse left.</climb>
<text id="323" class="heading2">Campsite Buttress</text>
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<climb id="155" name="Taipan" number="86." grade="22" length="60m" stars="**" extra="" fa="John Pawson, Wayne Maher 14.1.83">A great test piece. Originally graded 21 it requires a good bit of ooze to get through the crux!<br/>1. (17) Start as for geranium but head straight up the middle of the steep buttress and belay on the ledge.<br/>2. From the belay climb up smooth crack system moving left on the black section to a small cave. Continue easily up glorious cracks on the head wall. From the ledge, trend right to a bollard belay in a cave. You can rappel to the ground from here on double ropes. Or with a 60 you can rappel down to the bollard at the top of the first pitch and make a second abseil to the ground.<br/>Rap anchor consists of slung bollard (2 separate lengths of tape 1.5-2m loops and prussic cord) and knotted sling in crack with 2 recycled and one new aluminium snap gates. Should be replaced with stainless mallion or wrap ring and be prepared to replace tat</climb>
<climb id="357" stars="*" extra="" number="87." name="Carrot Paste" length="30m" grade="26" fa="FFA Mark Mcgivern & Dylan Tubaro April 2024">A boulder problem on immaculate rock leads to easier climbing into Geranium. One bolt and gear. First climbed by Simon Bischoff with 39 points of aid of which all 39 were eliminated by the dynamic duo Mark Mcgivern & Dylan Tubaro in 2024.</climb>
<climb id="156" name="Geranium" number="88." grade="15" length="60m" stars="**" extra="" fa="D. Smith, Stuart Willis 8.3.81">1. 35m Climb up the front of the buttress then traverse right into the corner. Follow the corner up and belay in the back of the chimney. <br/>2. An awesome pitch weaving in and out of the chimney on interesting holds with good gear. Rappel as for Taipan.</climb>
<climb id="157" name="Sunset Boulevard" number="89." grade="20" length="60m" stars="*" extra="" fa=""/>
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<climb>360</climb>
<climb>159</climb>
<climb>160</climb>
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<climb>358</climb>
<climb>386</climb>
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<climb id="158" name="Rock Garden" number="90." grade="15" length="90m" stars=""/>
<climb id="384" stars="**" extra="" number="91." name="Subterranean homesick alien" length="90" grade="22" fa="Simon Bischoff and Alex Hartshorne September 2020">Up first pitch of AIP and belay below the big roof. <br/>Up wide corner then out via some wild stemming. Belay in the alcove.<br/>Make a third pitch to join Squirrel.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="360" stars="**" extra="" number="92." name="Squirrel " length="" grade="" fa="Simon Bischoff, Hannah Vasiliades ">Nice multi pitch with a great chimney pitch through some amazing rock architecture. Although very fun and interesting rock, the 22 pitch is a bit out of character. Easy to skip it by doing the start of the second pitch of AIP. <br/><br/>1 - (17) Climb the crux of the first pitch of AIP but when it backs off move right and step across the gully in a alcove to belay.<br/>2 - (22) Short but good little pitch. From belay go up cool scoops just left of crack. After a few punchy moves head out on right leaning crack towards improbably looking torpedo chock-stone. Continue up easy ground to belay behind the tree below the chimney.<br/>3 - (15) Wild chimney pitch. Straight up the chimney with a few entertaining squeezes. Belay at big ledge where a nice thread can be found. <br/>4 - (16) Step back over chimney from belay, make a few committing moves right on a small wire to get around the corner and onto the head wall. Pick your own adventure to the top. <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="159" name="Adventures in Paradise" number="93." grade="18" length="85m" stars="**" extra="" fa=""/>
<climb id="160" name="Adventures in Paradise Direct Finish" number="94." grade="17" length="18m" stars="**" extra="" fa="">Rap anchor at top of AiP DF. Right on 30m rap to mid point anchor on top of overhanging blob, 37m rap to ground.</climb>
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<climb id="446" stars="" extra="" number="95." name="Project" length="" grade="" fa=""/>
<climb id="358" stars="***" extra="" number="96." name="Firetail" length="30 m" grade="30" fa="Simon Bischoff ">This route is absolutely incredible. Definitely one of the best routes in Tassie for the grade and is a solid benchmark for a three star route! The first ascent saw an all out siege over 15 days and was sent at last light on the last day of the trip in true Flinders Island style. Start up the corner directly to the left of HLS direct. 4 bolts and gear.</climb>
<climb id="386" stars="***" extra="" number="97." name="Thrasher" length="35m" grade="30" fa="Simon Bischoff October 2020">Climb firetail corner and the first crux of firetail then head right on bulging cracked arete to eventually join HLS. FA done placing the gear.</climb>
<climb id="355" name="Hook, line and Sinker Direct" fa="Simon Bischoff 2016" extra="" number="98." grade="26" length="35m" stars="***">Sensational. Overhanging route on perfect rock. Head up cracks on good holds and slightly left around bulge past a bolt. Clip second bolt from rest with a long sling to reduce rope drag. Technical moves on right facing flake get you below the roof. Small cams or a #six protect the crux moves around the lip. Continue straight up to good rest below the hanging dihedral, which is the second pitch of hook line and sinker. Finish the final pitches as for hook and sinker. Unless im totally tripping this must be one of the best routes for the grade in Tasmania.</climb>
<climb id="162" name="Hook, Line and Sinker" fa="Peter Woolford & Russel Crow Apr 1997, FFA. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock (alt) Feb 2004" extra="" number="99." grade="26" length="81m" stars="***">1. 20m (25) Climb the corner crack to the roof, traverse L and up to a hanging belay at the foot of the imposing blank corner.<br/>2. 25m (26) Stem up the incredible corner past good small wires and cams to the L hand finish over the capping bulge.<br/>3. 18m (21) Trend up R to airy prow then back L to upper corner line. Exit L to AP's third belay on big bushy ledge.<br/>4. 18m (17) Step L and climb black flake crack to small cave. Step R and through roof. Classic of the island , but the initial corner is sometimes wet.</climb>
<climb id="163" name="Norseman" number="100." grade="23" length="60m" stars="**" extra="" fa="Robert Staszewski and J. Mendoza 10 January 1985">Starts up corner of HLS. <br/>1. 15m (23) Up Hook, Line and Sinker, traverse right at roof and take left line into the corner. Belay five metres above the roof. Better taking a bigger rack and eliminate this belay.<br/>2. 15m (22) At the second roof the rope was used to make a tension traverse out right to avoid the hanging corner above.<br/>3. 25m (18) Up cracks and into bombay chimney up to the cave and belay on the fantastic thread.<br/></climb>
<climb id="440" stars="**" extra="" number="101." name="Norseman Direct " length="35m" grade="24" fa="SImon Bischoff October 2023">Eliminates the hanging belay and the tension traverse on pitch two of norseman. After the first roof place a 0.75 camalot out right with a long sling to stop the rope going to deep into the crack. Seems a bit hilarious giving it two stars but there are some pretty good routes around here. The next pitch is well worth doing.</climb>
<climb id="441" stars="**" extra="" number="102." name="Eden " length="30m" grade="29" fa="Simon Bischoff October 2023">Wandery start leads to some outstanding and unique climbing on the arete left of Norseman. Two bolts and pre-placed gear.</climb>
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<climb id="448" stars="*" extra="" number="103." name="Champaigne Socialism" length="" grade="24" fa="Simon Bischoff November 2023">Takes the well protected under-cling to join up with Peppermint in the corner.</climb>
<climb id="164" name="Peppermint" number="104." grade="23" length="60m" stars="*" extra="" fa=""/>
<climb id="165" name="Avalon" number="105." grade="22" length="70m" stars="*"/>
<climb id="427" stars="*" extra="" number="106." name="Penguin up a tree" length="18m" grade="25" fa="Simon Bischoff 2023">A nice little route with some interesting climbing. Three bolts and gear</climb>
<climb id="166" name="Farewell Gesture" number="107." grade="18" length="55m" stars="**" extra="" fa="John Pawson and Wayne Maher 1983">The first pitch climb the obvious crack on the leftside of the pinnacle recess. <br/><br/>1. 35m (17) Climb up15m to the large ledge on the wall. Up the nice crack in the centre of the wall, the up small chimney in the overhang to a stance on the right.<br/><br/>2. 20m (18) step left and make some tricky moves heading left around over hang and into a nice corner crack. Abseil off bollards</climb>
<text id="325" class="heading2">The Pinnacle</text>
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<climb>170</climb>
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<climb id="170" name="Far Away Places" number="108." grade="18" length="40m" stars="**" extra="" fa="">Lovely route. You can lower off with a 60m rope to the ledge and scramble the last past on the left of the recess.</climb>
<climb id="171" name="Well Hung" number="109." grade="18" length="27m" stars="*" extra="" fa="Mark grundy, G.Baudinette 13.1.82">Very worthwhile route especially when finished up far away places. <br/>1. 25m (17) Straight up crack to small roof at twenty metres. Move left and into thin hands/lay back crack. Belay on large ledge<br/>1. 12m (18) Traverse L and into Faraway places.</climb>
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<climb id="174" name="Dildo Direct" fa="Mark Colyvan 20 January 1984" extra="" number="110." grade="23" length="50m" stars="*">The greasy looking offwidth on the West side of the pillar. So bloody good. Requires a bit of everything :)<br/>Tat at the top is looking a bit dodgy.</climb>
<climb id="418" stars="*" extra="" number="111." name="Dante In Furneaux" length="30" grade="21" fa="David Gray, Vanessa Wills 2022">The right trending line just right of Dildo direct. Crosses under roof to finish up Captain Pugwash at Christmas Carol first belay</climb>
<climb id="451" stars="*" extra="" number="112." name="Tendonitis" length="" grade="20" fa="P.Cunningham and Wayne Maher 4.1.85"/>
<climb id="452" stars="" extra="" number="113." name="Tendonitis Direct" length="" grade="21" fa="Simon Bischoff December 2023"/>
<image id="363" src="pinnacle.jpg" height="900" width="600">
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<legend>
<climb>418</climb>
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<climb>452</climb>
<climb>179</climb>
<climb>444</climb>
<climb>182</climb>
<climb>445</climb>
<climb>365</climb>
<climb>362</climb>
<climb>187</climb>
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<climb id="179" name="A Christmas Carol" number="114." grade="16" length="45m" stars="*" extra="" fa="Wayne Maher, Iain Sedgman (alt), A Salisbury, 25.12.81">1. (16) 17m. climb crack to ledge<br/>2. (16) 16m. from the ledge step around left and climb the bottomless chimney to the over hang (crux). Traverse left to the arete and belay.<br/>3. 12m. Head to the top on easy terrain. <br/></climb>
<climb id="444" stars="*" extra="" number="115." name="Rich Girl" length="23m" grade="22" fa="Robert Staszewski, John Mendoza 12.1.85">Up twin cracks to break, traverse left to the right facing flake, up this to jug then traverse easily off right to the arete and summit.</climb>
<climb id="182" name="Inheritance" number="116." grade="22" length="23m" stars="**" extra="" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson 1995">Make Your way up to the large ledge. The route starts at the base of two parallel thin cracks. Climb the one on the right to the horizontal, move left a couple metres to the right facing flake. Make your way up the flake and continue straight up the crack until a balancy move leads you out left to arete and belay.</climb>
<climb id="445" stars="**" extra="" number="117." name="Existential Arthritis" length="18m" grade="25" fa="S.Bischoff 28.10.23">From the ledge climb up the shallow left facing corner and up to bolt. Pass bolt and move into awkward corner, RPs handy here and a couple of black aliens. Strange rest in the break then slither into the bombay chimney (#4 camalot). Lower off tat from the bollard or continue to the summit.</climb>
<climb id="365" stars="**" extra="" number="118." name="Golden Ticket" length="45m" grade="17" fa="Merry Schimanski and Simon Bischoff 2019">Fantastic route with lots of interesting climbing.<br/><br/>1. 20m (17) Start by scrambling up to the top of the recess. Head up the chimney on good holds until you reach an under cling flake, jam through this until you can begin stemming on the opposite wall. Head up the crack for a few more metres until you can step across to the adjacent wall at a large obvious pod and a Double Bolt belay. <br/><br/>2. 25m (17) Continue up crack system to the R of the belay, Mostly Trending L and slightly back R near the summit. There is a bolted rap anchor 10 metres back from the summit. With a 60 metre rope you can rappel to the top of the pinnacle and then make a second rappel to the ground.</climb>
<climb id="362" stars="***" extra="" number="119." name="Milk and Honey" length="25m" grade="26" fa="Merry Schimanski 2019">A brilliant route with steep technical jamming on perfect rock with ample protection. Late afternoon/evening conditions are best once the sun has come around the pinnacle and has dried off some of the spooge. Start by scrambling to the top of the recess where you can make a belay with a chock-stone. Climb weakness in slab that trends right to the base of the steep climbing. Follow the natural line until an obvious lower off from a big horn appears as the crack widens and the climbing becomes easier. Take some tat for the horn or continue to the summit with a fairly moderate pitch.</climb>
<image id="366" src="milk and honey (1 of 1).jpg" height="600" width="400">
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<text id="339" class="heading2">Soaks</text>
<image id="340" legendy="5" legendx="432" legendTitle="The Soaks" legend="true" width="600" height="900" src="Flinders Island Topos - Soaks.jpg">
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<climb>187</climb>
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<climb id="187" name="Rain Shadow" number="120." grade="19" length="70m" stars="" extra="" fa="John Pawson and Wayne Maher 17.1.83">Usually people only climb the first pitch and lower off some fixed gear, the top pitches are well worth doing though. Originally climbed to the summit in two pitches it can be nicer to do as three even though the middle pitch is short it packs some punch. Descend as for Golden Ticket or AIP. Recently (2 January 2024) a very large block came off the first pitch on rain-shadow, it is still a fantastic pitch and goes at around 21.<br/><br/>1. (21) 15m. The slippery right leaning crack up to fixed gear and belay.<br/>2. (19) 10m. Continue up the line to a small but comfy belay stance.<br/>3. (16) 30m. Continue straight up the lovely crack system which eventually backs of to more slabby territory on grey rock.<br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="188" name="Do Not Fear" number="121." grade="20" length="50m" stars="**" extra="" fa="Robert Staszewski and John Pawson. 27 December 1986">Excellent. Start in the flaky orange scoop to the left of the old soaks. Up the scoop to overlap then move left till you almost join Rainshadow. Instead, trend R to the bombay alcove and locate the anchor for Park and Soak.</climb>
<climb id="341" name="Park and Soak" fa="John Fischer, Alex Hartshorne 9th December 2014" extra="" number="122." grade="26" length="30m" stars="**">Just left of the soaks there is a bolt about 13 metres up. Start up the easy face under the bolt and trending left with good gear until the overhangs are reached. Move up and right to a bomber big cam placement (#4 camalot). Committing moves to an amazing undercling let you clip the bolt. The bolt protected crux is a crazy sequence R into the corner then up and back left to a massive jug. Tricky corner (22) up to a big hueco filled cave to a roof. Turn the roof using the giant ear of rock at about grade 22. DBB immediately after roof. The next pitch is a 25 metre 14 that will be popular for people looking for another moderate pitch before rapping to the ground.</climb>
<climb id="428" stars="*" extra="" number="123." name="Chook therapy direct" length="18m" grade="27" fa="Simon Bischoff 2022">Stick clip first bolt. Crux past second bolt to a rest. Up left via slippery lay back and good gear. At bolt move right onto slab to a final crux and a spicy exit to the lower off.</climb>
<climb id="429" stars="*" extra="" number="124." name="Chook therapy" length="18m" grade="24" fa="Simon Bischoff 2022">Start right of the soaks. Pull onto wall at bolt, move left under overlap then up to join Chook therapy direct.</climb>
<climb id="443" stars="**" extra="" number="125." name="Scotch and dry" length="30m" grade="20" fa="P.Cunningham, M.Grundy 1985">Does not look particularly inspiring from the ground but the climbing is very good. Starts in overhanging corner to the right of the soaks. The start is usually a little dirty and has just adequate protection to get you established in the corner where the rock and gear improve. Abseil from bollard which has new tat as of Spring 2023.</climb>
<climb id="193" name="Loch Ness" number="126." grade="11" length="45m" stars="**"/>
<image id="369" src="uyk.jpg" height="450" width="300">
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<text id="380" class="heading1">Sedgies Buttress</text>
<climb id="195" name="Up Your Kilt" number="127." grade="14" length="17m" stars="*" extra="" fa="Stuart Willis and Chris Reeves 27.12.80">A pretty average route really. But deservedly popular as low commitment, easy route with good pro and U Bolts lower offs.</climb>
<climb id="196" name="Mantis" number="128." grade="16" length="18m" stars="" extra="" fa="John Pawson, Robert Staszewski, Wayne Maher 28.12.86">Starts in shallow corner 1m right of UYK. The face with two mantle shelf moves to the lower off. Kind of sketchy at the start, better off top roping it or leading UYK for the first 5-6m until you can traverse right into the line.</climb>
<climb id="458" stars="*" extra="" number="129." name="Below the Belt" length="20m" grade="27" fa="Mark Mcgivern & Dylan Tubaro April 2024 ">More like below the bolt. After being looked at by all the greatest climbers of their generations this last great top rope problem falls to an unlikely pair of bouldering minstrels from the large island north of bass strait. The line on the far LFH side of Sedgies buttress.</climb>
<climb id="419" stars="**" extra="" number="130." name="Quibble" length="20m" grade="27" fa="Simon Bischoff June 2022">A nice companion route to Offhand Comment. Probably a touch harder and certainly more sustained. Head up the shallow groove into a funky crux, protected by some small wires and black aliens. commiting moves to an OK rest at the slanting 'ledge', then traverse right to tackle the beautiful flake. All gear placed on lead.</climb>
<image id="364" src="sedgies.jpg" height="400" width="600">
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<legend>
<climb>458</climb>
<climb>419</climb>
<climb>342</climb>
<climb>197</climb>
<climb>198</climb>
<climb>199</climb>
<climb>442</climb>
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<climb id="342" name="Offhand Comment" fa="J. Fischer, N. Tietze, S. Young 17 Feb. 2015" extra="" number="131." grade="27" length="25m" stars="**">First crack L of Grunter. Crux is a short flaring hand crack with excellent pro. Finish up 15 metres of grade 22 fun. All gear. DBB</climb>
<climb id="197" name="Grunter" number="132." grade="21" length="20m" stars="" extra="" fa="John Pawson and Robert Staszewski 27.12.86">The fierce thrutchy crack to the left of Sporran.</climb>
<climb id="198" name="Sporran" number="133." grade="13" length="20m" stars="*" extra="" fa="M. Norton and A Mihan 2.1.81">Better than it looks. Up chimney, through steepness and traverse out left before the tree rather than continue up the crack line.</climb>
<climb id="199" name="Dire Straits" number="134." grade="18" length="20m" stars="*" extra="" fa="Derek Vissor, Anne Scholes January 1984">Thrutchty classic. Single bolt lower off to the right of alcove.</climb>
<climb id="442" stars="*" extra="" number="135." name="Exodus twenty, three" length="10m" grade="16" fa="Iain Sedgeman, P.Cunningham 2.3.86">“If you come across your enemy’s ox or donkey wandering off, be sure to return it. 5 If you see the donkey of someone who hates you fallen down under its load, do not leave it there; be sure you help them with it".<br/><br/><br/>The overhanging squeeze chimney to a single bolt lower off. A few people may find this climb amazing, most probably won't. What it lacks in length it certainly makes up for in character!</climb>
<image id="312" width="600" height="900" src="Flinders Island Topos - Siberian Khatru.jpg">
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<legend>
<climb>311</climb>
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<climb id="311" name="Siberian Khatru" fa="Simon Bischoff Feb 2015" extra="" number="136." grade="24" length="20m" stars="**">The obvious prow with a crack running up it on the far right of Sedgies buttress. The start (crux) is protected by a single bolt and bomber gear follows. Bolted anchor at the top.<br/></climb>
<text id="310" class="heading2">Sedgies Buttress Alcove</text>
<image id="344" legendTitle="Sedgies Buttress Alcove" legend="true" width="600" height="900" src="Flinders Island Topos - Sedgies Buttress Alcove.jpg">
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<legend>
<climb>343</climb>
<climb>211</climb>
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<image id="450" src="DSC06029.jpg" height="750" width="500">
<drawing>
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<legend>
<climb>343</climb>
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<climb id="343" name="Simons Route" fa="Simon Young Feb 2015" extra="p" number="137." grade="27" length="15m" stars="*">Quite a good sporty thing</climb>
<climb id="211" name="Crayfish Pots and Bowline Knots" number="138." grade="21" length="25m" stars="*" extra="" fa="">Extremely beefy. Best at the very end of the day once the sun has dried the spooge off.</climb>
<climb id="447" stars="*" extra="" number="139." name="Kaleidoscope" length="15m" grade="22" fa="Simon Bischoff October 2023">The smooth corner to the right of crayfish pots.</climb>
<text id="313" class="heading2">Billy Goat Bluff</text>
<image id="315" legendTitle="Billy Goat Bluff" legend="true" width="1200" height="800" src="Flinders Island Topos - Billy Goat Bluff.jpg">
<drawing>
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<path id="47193" d="" points=""/>
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<legend>
<climb>221</climb>
<climb>225</climb>
<climb>228</climb>
<climb>229</climb>
<climb>314</climb>
<climb>227</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="221" name="Unprecedented Finale" number="140." grade="13" length="30m" stars="*" extra="" fa=""/>
<climb id="225" name="Slash" fa="" extra="" number="141." grade="20" length="35m" stars="**">A great line!<br/>2x BDc4#6's 2x BDc4#5's sling a chockstone then a full rack from BDc4#4 to BDc4#0.3<br/>GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = Slash)</climb>
<climb id="314" name="Currawong crack" fa="FA. Joel Murray and Ben French Dec 2014 FFA Simon Bischoff Dec 2014" extra="" number="142." grade="25" length="25m" stars="**">finger/hand splitter crack, All gear.</climb>
<climb id="227" name="Macho Man (Savage)" number="143." grade="18" length="26m" stars=""/>
<text id="409" class="heading3">Bottle Rocks</text>
<climb id="353" name="Into the Barasco" fa="Nick Hancock, Angus McIntosh, Josh Gatehouse, Raiden Lemon & Alex Hogan-Jones Nov 2016" extra="" number="144." grade="16" length="20m" stars="">At Bottle Rocks south of Killiecrankie. On the furthest right (south) crag, north of the gully. Climb an easy crack to the bulge, step right, then up easier but poorly protected slabs.</climb>
<text id="411" class="heading3">West End</text>
<text id="413" class="text">Four km south of the turnoff to Killiecrankie township, head west on West End Road to the end of the road overlooking Roydon Island to the SE. Walk 15 mins beyond to below the large orange south facing cliff, topped with grey lichen. It's easily recognised by the massive R trending flake line down L, and the huge bomb bay roof up R. Avoid the scrub by starting the approach way L and trending R to a terrace leading across below the face from the far R.</text>
<climb id="412" stars="**" extra="" number="145." name="Achilles Heel" length="60m" grade="26 A0" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock 2020">1. 35m 22. In the centre of the cliff is a massive undercut R facing flake line. About 20 m R of this, climb the cool L facing flake with hidden good gear to a short traverse R. Pull up to a hanging flake, then crank over the roof on brilliant locks to a groove. Exit R past two bolts to a DBB on the spacious ledge.<br/>2. 10m 23. Bridge up the steep blank corner past bolts and traverse awkwardly R to a ledge below the massive roof and DBB.<br/>3. 15m 26 A0. Use the high anchor bolt to start up the juggy wall leading to the massive bomb bay chimney through the roof. Stem wildly out to the lip and crank up L to DBB above. All bolts for P2 & 3.</climb>
<text id="410" class="heading3">Blyth Point</text>
<climb id="277" name="Picking Pumpkins" fa="Toby Story" extra="" number="146." grade="17" length="10m" stars="">At Blyth Point north of the Docks.</climb>
<climb id="278" name="Runnel For Your Life" fa="Nick Hancock" extra="" number="147." grade="24" length="20m" stars="**">On a large beak topped buttress, step across from a boulder and climb the thin face past carrot bolts and a sling to a cool tunnel finish.</climb>
<climb id="279" name="One Small Step For Mankind, One Giant Leap For Sophie Le Roux" fa="Nick Hancock" extra="" number="148." grade="22" length="25m" stars="**"/>
<climb id="280" name="Faith in Friction" number="149." grade="22" length="7m" stars="*"/>
</guide> |