<header id="1" name="" walk="3 hours" sun="E Lucevan Le Stele North facing" rock="Quartzite and Conglomerate" acknowledgement="Hamish Jackson" intro="Mt Murchison is a large conglomerate peak on the West Coast near Rosebery, remarkable for a crater-like physiognomy (not a true crater, but a glacial cirque - aka Cwn). Cliffs have been climbed inside and outside the cirque, and the rim itself makes for a good alpine traverse experience. " history="Phil Robinson and Glen Kowalik ascended the first known route in Feb 1987. They also enjoyed traversing the rather aesthetic easy angled slabs on the north eastern side of the inner sanctum. In the 1990s Peter Steane visited the mountain and climbed &apos;some easy long slabs on the outside of the crater rim&apos; and possibly the western ridge traverse - the details are so far unrecorded. Hamish Jackson visited the mountain in 1999 and did two routes inside &apos;the crater&apos;, and recognized the potential of Le Stele buttress. After two failed attempts on the buttress he returned to complete the major lines of Acrasia with Shumita and Lost Arrow with Adam. The rock accepts better natural gear than the cliffs nearby on the Tyndall Range, so to date all climbs have been all on natural gear. A number of major lines are still unclimbed.  " access="Walk time 3 hours, uphill.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Well marked trail. Car park and sign post can be found on the Anthony Rd. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;For access to E Lucevan Le Stele and surrounds - follow Mt Murchison summit track (Main Track) then descend to a small hanging lake inside the crater - see topo for descent options: 1 is easier to find, 2 is easier walking. The lake is about 300m altitude below the summit trig.  &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;" camping="Wilderness camping sits can be found near the hanging lake. Exposed sites with water can also be found along the summit track and crater rim.  When camping at the hanging lake be careful to toilet outside the water catchment for the lake. " autonumber="true"/>
  <image id="88" src="Mt Murchison descent options to hanging lake.png" height="597"/>
  <image id="87"/>
  <text id="81" class="heading3">E Lucevan Le Stele</text>
  <text id="82" class="text">This is the large north-facing buttress inside the Mt Murchison Cirque. &lt;br/&gt;Access: follow Mt M summit track then descend to small hanging lake inside the cirque, 300m altitude below summit trig. Descent via walk off down wide gully 50m east of Acrasia; OR abseil from bollard into narrow gully 25m east of Acrasia (one 50m abseil into gully, then another 50m abseil down steep gully).</text>
  <image id="83" src="lost arrow topo final.jpg" height="1086"/>
  <climb id="84" stars="**" extra="" number="1." name="Acrasia (aka ‘Original Route’) " length="130m" grade="18" fa="Hamish Jackson and Shumita Joseph Feb 2016">Takes the walls and roofs 50m left of Lost Arrow corner.&lt;br/&gt;Rack: standard traditional rack.&lt;br/&gt;Start: The narrow arête on the far left side of ELLS buttress.&lt;br/&gt;1. 40m 17. Climb up on arête for 5m then transition to the left wall and up this for 15m following left leaning crack line until it finishes at right leading horizontal weakness. Traverse right back to arête (crux), then up through small overhangs right of arête to belay on ledge among overhangs.&lt;br/&gt;2. 45m 18. Up corner systems leading towards large blank roof, but tend diagonally left 5m prior to roof heading to weakness where roof is only 0.5m wide (4m run-out). Gear at roof, through this (crux) then up wall to large ledge (possible belay). Off ledge up 3m crack to small roof, but traverse left 3m to avoid it. Up steep wall above (on intermittent cracks, 5m left of large unattractive corner), until a move right into upper section of large corner is possible. Up this 5m to large ledge below overhangs.&lt;br/&gt;3. 40m 16. Up right of overhangs then on to top.</climb>
  <climb id="85" stars="***" extra="" number="2." name="Lost Arrow" length="200m" grade="25" fa="Adam Donoghue and Hamish Jackson (var). 22/1/17">This climb was established ground up in one 11 hour push.&lt;br/&gt;Climbs the large, over hanging diagonal corner that splits the prow of the E Lucevan Le Stele. Overhangs about 20m over the first 100m of climbing. Generally excellent rock that accepts good protection.&lt;br/&gt;Rack: generous traditional rack to #3 Camelot size, including 5-10 small cams and 15 extendable draws. Double ropes essential.&lt;br/&gt;Start: approx. 50m right of Acrasia below the weakness through overhang 15m above.&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 24. Steep and sustained. Up wall then through 4m roof via right leading horizontal flake. Up and left of hanging block (could not be budged), then right along ledge to belay.&lt;br/&gt;2. 20m 22. Up overhanging corner with increasing difficulty (+ damp after rain on FA), then exit left along large diagonal. Belay at base of major corner.&lt;br/&gt;3. 25m 20. Up steep corner and cracks, then left along easy diagonal to belay 5m under next hanging corner.&lt;br/&gt;4. 40m 25. Extremely exposed and very difficult. Up wall (2m wet patch on FA) to small roof, then through this with difficulty. (Small cams would allow aid though this crux 22 A2). Continue steeply to upper corner above quartzite band, to find the unlikely traverse across overhanging wall to right arête, and then up easily to large ledge.&lt;br/&gt;5. 25m 22. Exposed and technical conglomerate wall climbing. Head up short wall then traverse right 2m to base of corner, then up corner strenuously. As corner ends, follow a faint weakness up and left to gain a thin diagonal crack that leads back right to another large ledge. Phew.&lt;br/&gt;6. 45m. Up easier slab left of arête.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="91" stars="*" extra="" number="3." name="Murcheson&apos;s Eye" length="100m" grade="17" fa="H Jackson and Simon Jarman 1999">Buttress 100m west of Lost Arrow, just west of descent gully for that route.&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;Start: scramble up from descent gully to cliff proper. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Follow flakes and intermittent corners up the west facing slabs 100m left of Lost Arrow. Finishes up prominent right facing corner 15m in length. 3 pitches. good rock and natural protection.</climb>
  <climb id="90" stars="**" extra="" number="4." name="WESTRERN RIDGE TRAVERSE" length="300m" grade="easy" fa="Unknown, a number of ascents are known to date">&lt;br/&gt;300m of easy, but very exposed climbing is found on the western ridgeline. Ropes and very light rack are recommended.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Access: from hanging lake track take a carefully planned route across the northern slopes of the 'inner sanctum' (inside walls of crater) to gain the NW rim of the crater. Alternatively walk the entire rim west from the summit trig (faint pad).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Climb: Follow the summit rim that forms the back drop to Phil Robinson's campsite photo. Abseils are usually required. Return via same route, or scrubby descent to Shady Creek and back up slopes to summit track (ie the complete circuit - a long day).</climb>
  <text id="79" class="heading3">Kowalik / Robinson Route</text>
  <text id="80" class="text">In Feb.1987 a significant 3 pitch climb (gr.~17) was done on the main cliffs by Glen Kowalik and Phil Robinson as well as climbing on long easy angled slabs on the eastern side. Access is by the normal track, a steep walk in to camp at a lake below the summit and heading over to the large cliffs on the western side, i.e. those visible from the Murchison Highway. Unfortunately the exact location of this route has been forgotten, although there are a few photos.</text> 
  <image id="63" src="Murchison001r.jpg" height="474" width="700"/>
  <text id="64" class="text">Mt Murchison</text>
  <image id="65" src="Murchison005(Phil)r.jpg" height="437" width="700"/>
  <text id="66" class="text">Walk in 1987</text>
  <image id="67" src="Murchison023r.jpg" height="472" width="700"/>
  <text id="69" class="text">The climb</text>
  <image id="70" src="Murchison024r.jpg" height="472" width="700"/>
  <image id="71" src="Murchison033(campsite)r.jpg" height="480" width="700"/>
  <text id="72" class="text">Campsite in 1987</text>
  <image id="73" src="Murchison034(Glen on slabs)r.jpg" height="484" width="700"/>
  <text id="74" class="text">Climber on the slabs</text>
  <image id="75" src="Murchison035(Glen)r.jpg" height="473" width="700"/>
  <text id="76" class="text">GK on the slabs</text>
  <image id="77" src="Murchison036(summit trig and slabs)r.jpg" height="445" width="700"/>
  <text id="78" class="text">Trig Point (in middle) and easy angled slabs below Murchison summit, 1987.&lt;br/&gt;Photos: Phil Robinson</text>