<guide>
<header id="61" name="The Velvet Underground" walk="" sun="" rock="" acknowledgement="By Nick Hancock" intro="The Velvet Underground is a granite crag south of Granville Harbour." history="" access="From the Granville Harbour Road travel 2 km along Climes Track, until just past the shacks at the Tasman River, where it gets too rough for most vehicles. Walk along the main track for 35 minutes, until just past the second creek. Turn right (GPS: VU000) down to the coast and the crag is visible to the south, set back 50 m from the coast and above a pond. (GPS: VU010)" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
<gps id="62">
<point pid="1" latitude="-41.84821" longitude="145.07316" easting="340042" northing="5365280" zone="55G" code="VU000" height="0" description="Right turn on way to Velvet Underground"/>
<point pid="3" description="The Velvet Underground" latitude="-41.86073" longitude="145.08082" easting="340709" northing="5363905" zone="55G" code="VU010" height="0"/>
</gps>
<image height="466" width="600" id="8" src="VelvetUg.jpg" noPrint="false">null</image>
<climb name="Lonesome Cowboy Bill" id="44" fa="Heather & Nick Hancock Mar 2008." grade="16" length="20m" number="1.">On the far left of the crag climb a flake crack then up right to finish.</climb>
<climb name="Sweet Jane" id="9" fa="Nick Hancock, Feb 2006." grade="24" length="25m" number="2." extra="6Þ" stars="***">Climbs the pillar with a wide horizontal break at half height, on the left side of the cliff. Technical moves past six glued carrots. Optional Friend 5 on a long sling in the break.</climb>
<climb name="Heroin" id="10" fa="Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb 2006." grade="26" length="25m" number="3." extra="" stars="**">1. 10m 26. Climb the very thin seam past two glued carrots and small cams to a belay on the right. 2. 15m 17. Follow the corner above trending left onto the arête to finish.</climb>
<climb name="Heroin Overdose" id="46" fa="Nick Hancock Jan 2011." grade="24" length="15m" number="4." stars="**">From the belay above the first pitch of Heroin, battle up the overhanging fist crack, to an easier, very wide crack above, Friends 2-6.</climb>
<climb name="I’ll Be Your Mirror" id="12" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004." grade="20" length="25m" extra="" stars=" *** " number="5.">Start below a round hole. Thin cracks on good wires then carefully up the easy slab above.</climb>
<climb name="Sunday Morning" id="13" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004." grade="22" length="25m" extra="" stars=" ** " number="6.">Follow the right trending diagonal off blocks to the flared vertical cracks. Follow these to a glued carrot and a thin move over a bulge. Climb up to a deep flared crack (4 Camalot) and another bolt on the final slab.</climb>
<climb name="Bananas" id="45" fa="Nick Hancock Feb 2007" grade="24" length="25m" number="7." extra="" stars="**">Climb the overhanging groove, then trend right up the diagonal break. Climb the groove above, then up over the bulge past glued carrots and medium cams.</climb>
<climb name="Venus In Furs" id="14" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004." grade="23" length="25m" extra="" stars=" * " number="8.">Climb the fist crack to shrubbery. Go left to another crack then back right to a black groove through the final tier. 4, 5, & 6 friend-sized cams essential.</climb>
<climb name="Waiting For The Man" id="15" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004." grade="26" length="25m" extra="5Þ" stars=" *** " number="9.">Climb a very thin crack up a prow past 4 glued carrots, to another glued carrot, on the pocketed wall above.</climb>
<climb name="I’m Beginning to See the Light" id="16" fa="Sarah Hedges & Nick Hancock Jan 2004." grade="18" length="25m" extra="" stars=" ** " number="10.">Climb a right trending ramp (4 & 5 Camalot) to open grooves (4 glued carrots).</climb>
<climb name="Black Angels Death Song" id="17" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004." grade="19" length="15m" extra="" stars=" * " number="11.">Near the top of the rocky gully on the right side of the crag climb a left trending crack to an easy finish.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="58">Velvet Teens</text>
<climb name="Rubicon" id="59" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011." grade="23" length="15m" number="12." stars="**">Ten minutes north along the coast from the Velvet Underground is a collection of large boulders by the ocean. On the west face of the largest boulder climb a desperate flaring runnel to a ledge, then the lovely seam and diagonal crack above. Simultaneous abseil off the top.</climb>
<climb name="Grit Your Teeth" id="60" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011." grade="22" length="7m" number="13." stars="**">Fifty metres south and facing inland is a nice golden wall above a zawn, with a perfect flake crack. Climb this with conviction past good wires and cams.</climb>
</guide> |