<guide>
<header autonumber="false" camping="" access="" history="" intro="There are a number of old quarries and other bits of choss within the city that provide mediocre climbing but very easy access.<br/>" acknowledgement="" rock="Dolerite and Sandstone" sun="Mixed" walk="Various" name="Hobart Quarries" id="175"/>
<gps id="205">
<point pid="3" description="Kingston Dog Beach Boulder" latitude="-42.97660" longitude="147.33002" easting="526909" northing="5241730" zone="55G"/>
<point pid="5" description="Proctor's Quarry" latitude="-42.91011" longitude="147.31147" easting="525424" northing="5249120" zone="55G"/>
<point pid="6" description="Alexander Battery" latitude="-42.91493" longitude="147.35823" easting="529239" northing="5248569" zone="55G"/>
<point pid="7" description="Waterworks Quarry" latitude="-42.90333" longitude="147.31064" easting="525359" northing="5249873" zone="55G"/>
<point pid="8" description="Fruehauf" latitude="-42.89367" longitude="147.30151" easting="524617" northing="5250948" zone="55G"/>
<point pid="9" description="Waterworks Cave" latitude="-42.91205" longitude="147.29048" easting="523710" northing="5248910" zone="55G"/>
<point pid="10" description="McRobies Quarry" latitude="-42.89370" longitude="147.29570" easting="524143" northing="5250947" zone="55G"/>
<point pid="11" description="Forest Road Quarries" latitude="-42.88976" longitude="147.30632" easting="525012" northing="5251381" zone="55G"/>
</gps>
<text class="heading2" id="3">Proctors Quarry</text>
<text class="intro" id="4">Within this Hobart urban quarry are a number of good traverses and vertical boulder problems.</text>
<text class="access" id="5">To get to the quarry Drive up Proctors Road from Sandy Bay. Half way up the hill is an obvious dolerite quarry surrounded by a wire fence. Access to the quarry is a bit tricky these days. The quarry is owned by the University of Tasmania and you have to get permission to climb there. Call (03) 6226 2791 for details. Gaining access involves filling out and signing an indemnity form and returning it (you can fax it) to the University Asset Management Services. A security guard will then come and unlock the gate for you at a pre-arranged time. It is best to arrange access at least a day before you want to climb. If a University security guard sees you bouldering without permission they will come and kick you out.</text>
<problem name="Cocaine Traverse" id="6" extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" number=" " stars=" ">The leftmost traverse starts on the slab under Cocaine Corner (the left most route on the lower level of the quarry) and traverses right past the start of Hit Me Quick to a large jug next to the large tree. There are several variations worth attempting: Left to right, right to left, the low traverse (only using under clings) and the high traverse.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="7">Grand Annihilator Area</text>
<text class="access" id="8">Just past the large tree to the right of Hit Me Quick, are several problems.</text>
<image id="9" height="435" src="Proctors Quarryga.jpg"/>
<problem name=" " id="10" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3?" number="1." stars=" ">Up arete, finish as for Grand Annihilator</problem>
<problem name="The Grand Annihilator" id="11" extra="(Stand)" grade="V8" number="2." stars="***">This is the very difficult problem following the very slopey holds up the overhanging wall, about 2m right of the previous problem. For several years the hardest problem in Tasmania and a classic of the grade. FA Marcel Jackson 94 Can also be done with a sit start which is slightly harder.</problem>
<problem name="Right Annihilator" id="12" extra="(Stand)" grade="V8+" number="3." stars=" ">Do the start of the GA but crank out right to the two small holds high up to the right. Get established on these and then finish as for Event Horizon. This is a little bit harder than GA since it involves most of GA and then some more ugly moves after that. FA Marcel Jackson 97</problem>
<problem name="Right Annihilator Eliminate" id="13" extra="(Stand)" grade="V9" number="3a." stars="**">As for Right Annihilator, using the slopes instead of the two crimps, finish as for Event Horizon.</problem>
<problem name="The GA traverse (low)" id="14" extra="(Stand)" grade="V4?" number=" " stars=" ">Traverse along the base of this face (left and or right) from the tree to the easy ground past EH. This is a moderate grade and not as hard as the Justin Traverse, but reasonably tricky - a knee bar comes in handy. Reasonably fun. FA Marcel Jackson 97</problem>
<problem name="The GA Traverse (high)" id="15" extra="(Stand)" grade="V9?" number=" " stars=" ">Right to left only. Start up EH then traverse the lip without using the finishing jug on EH (which is a fair way past the lip anyway) and finish as for the easier problem near the tree. This problem is harder than GA as it involves doing the final hard move of GA as well as quite a few very slopey foot swaps and hand slaps. FA Marcel Jackson 95</problem>
<problem name="Event Horizon" id="16" extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" number="4." stars="*">This problem involves cranking up left to some small holds at the top of the overhanging wall, and then pulling over the top, about 2m right of GA. Reasonably easy. FA Hamish Jackson 95</problem>
<problem name="Event Horizon Eliminate" id="17" extra="(Stand)" grade="V9?" number=" " stars=" ">There are heaps of natural eliminates to Event Horizon (eg don't use the rounded top of the face, use the smaller of the two holds), but this is the best. The basic idea is to eliminate the two small holds. Start as for EH and crank a long way up left to the top of the face (the part of the lip used on GA) with the left hand. Put your left foot on the small foothold and slap to the top of the face on the right (just above and right of the two thin holds). Then do a big dyno to the obvious finishing jug (the same one as for EH). According to Marcel this problem is massively hard and is about the same difficulty as RGA. FA Marcel Jackson 97</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="18">Justin Traverse</text>
<text class="text" id="19">This is the main traverse in the quarry, originally developed by Justin Kennedy with a million variations done by Marcel Jackson. It starts at the base of Natural High and now ends at the start of Suicide Bridge (the best part ends at Bent Needles). There are a couple of upwards problems that can be done here as well i.e. the starts of Faceless and Bent Needles.</text>
<problem name="The Justin Traverse (high)" id="21" extra="(Stand)" grade="V6+" number="1." stars="*">This is the main traverse in the quarry, originally developed by Justin Kennedy with a million variations done by Marcel Jackson. It starts at the base of Natural High and traverses right on crimps. Crank upwards in the middle section to the higher holds.`</problem>
<image id="20" height="375" src="Proctors Quarryjt.jpg"/>
<problem name="The Justin Traverse (low)" id="22" extra="(Stand)" grade="V5+" number="2." stars="*">Traverse left to right using low side pulls and underclings</problem>
<problem name="Other variants." id="23" extra="(Stand)" grade="V5+" number="3." stars=" ">There are many other variants of the Justin Traverse, with varying degrees of contrivance. Some ideas are: The middle traverse - keep to handholds at about head height; The Eliminate traverse - use as few holds as possible; the super-high traverse (uses high handholds and no low footholds). The hardest of the variants is the so-called Footholdless Traverse. On this traverse you must eliminate all positive footholds, including bridging or layaway smears. Contrived, but difficult!</problem>
<problem name=" " id="24" extra="(Stand)" grade="V5?" number=" " stars=" ">The start of Faceless</problem>
<problem name=" " id="25" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3/4" number=" " stars=" ">The start of Bent Needles</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="26" new="false">Waterworks Quarry</text>
<text class="text" id="27" new="false">Waterworks Quarry is located in Dynnyrne on Waterworks Rd. From the city, travel up Davey Street (B64) heading for Ferntree (Mt Wellington). At the round about 800m after the last set of traffic lights, turn left down Lynton Avenue. At the bottom of the hill just before the overpass turn right onto Waterworks Rd. The quarry is one km along here on the left hand side.</text>
<problem name="Local's Breakfast" id="28" extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" number="" stars="*" new="false" length="" fa="M. Hitchcock 2009">The classic traverse along the base of the quarry. Start far right on "The Crippled Leading the Blind" and traverse left for 50m+, with three distinct cruxes until the end of the cliff (past the dog-leg crack of "Justin's Crack"). If your into "adventure bouldering" keep going and top it out on the lefthand side of the quarry.<br/><br/>This traverse has been reversed (left to right) at a slightly harder grade of V6. It's nicknamed "Local's Dinner".</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="101">Waterworks Cave</text>
<text class="text" id="102">Also known locally as "Sex Pence Cave", this is one of the steepest pieces of choss in Hobart. Limited potential, but with a lot of work some more problems could be done. From the entrance of Waterworks Reserve continue up the road to park at Ridgeway Reservoir. Walk down the bitumen road on the lower side of the road until you get to some reservoirs. Follow the top fence, then the track for another 50m down and around to the cave.</text>
<image id="173" height="525" src="left with arrows.png" width="700" legendTitle="Left side of cave" legend="true">
<legend>
<climb>171</climb>
<climb>105</climb>
<climb>107</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Open project" id="171" extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" number="1" stars="" length="" fa="">Sit start with underclings on leftmost edge of cave. Head up and top out to the left.</problem>
<problem name="Project" id="103" extra="" grade="V?" number="2" stars="" length="" fa="">Project - out the guts of the cave, a bit right of centre.</problem>
<image id="174" height="525" src="right with arrows.png" width="700" legendTitle="Right side of cave" legend="true">
<legend>
<climb>104</climb>
<climb>105</climb>
<climb>106</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="" id="104" extra="(SDS)" grade="V6?" number="3" stars="" length="" fa="">Series of edges through steep ground on the right side of the cave.</problem>
<problem name="" id="105" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="4" stars="" length="" fa="">Steep line of good holds to the left of Circles.</problem>
<problem name="Circles" id="106" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" number="5" stars="" length="" fa="">Start below the circles. Up on good holds on the right side of the wall.</problem>
<problem name="" id="107" extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" number="6" stars="" length="" fa="">Start at circles and traverse left along the line of jugs and out along the lip of the cave. Drop off when the jugs run out, or more heroically it could top out.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="29">Fruehauf</text>
<text class="intro" id="30">There are some vertical, crimpy problems in this Hobart urban training area.</text>
<text class="text" id="32">To get to Fruehauf drive down Cascade Road, turn right to go to the tip, then right into Degraves St, across the bridge to Apsley, immediately left into Tara, drive into the car park and park at the gate. Squeeze through the gate and walk about 50m to where a track heads left up the bank to the cliff.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="146">Small Wall<br/></text>
<text class="text" id="147">The short wall up and left of the main area, exposed now the scree slope of blackberries has been cleared. Rock quality dubious in parts. A good introduction crag to outdoor bouldering.</text>
<problem name="Movement Puzzles" id="152" extra="(Stand)" grade="V0-V2" number="0." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Contrived mini problems on the shorter boulder just left of main wall. <br/><br/>24 variants to this problem. All variants start from same obvious chalked handholds (R sidepull and/or L higher left jug (or lower left finger edge)) the only footer the obvious chalked low central footer, unless stated otherwise. Variants include right foot/left foot only versions, up R/L/dyno both, jump start, static, etc, using either of the two sets of allowable handholds.<br/><br/>Great fun! Easier if you're tall.</problem>
<problem name="Stealth Mission" id="139" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" number="1." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Up the first arête.</problem>
<problem name="Body Mind Centering" id="140" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1/2" number="2." stars="*" length="" fa="CW">1m right of SM. Nice.</problem>
<problem name="Form Follows Thought" id="141" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1/2" number="3." stars="" length="" fa="CW">SDS just right of BMC.Up wall, staying out of chossy groove. Intricate.</problem>
<problem name="Step Lightly" id="142" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="4." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Just right of chossy groove, under next 'arete' (look up!). Finish up 'arete'. Delicate thx to dubious rock quality.</problem>
<problem name="Adage" id="143" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1/2" number="5" stars="" length="" fa="CW">Just right of SL. High step to good sidepull edge, straight up wall. Balancey.</problem>
<problem name="Dancer's Warm-up" id="144" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="6." stars="" length="" fa="CW">) Im left of where the blackberries start at the obvious good flake/easy groove. Good holds, one high step, top out. Pleasant. An excellent warm-up.</problem>
<problem name="Grande Allegro" id="151" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" number="7." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Just right of DW. R sidepull, L high edge, dyno to top, tricky mantle. Don't use anything covered in white moss. A great problem! Easier if you're tall.</problem>
<problem name="Enchainement A Terre" id="153" extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" number="8." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start as for Grande Allegro, traverse left (low) to finish up Stealth Mission. <br/></problem>
<problem name="Enchainement En L'Air" id="154" extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" number="9." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start up Grande Allegro, do the dpnt, but instead of doing the mantle, traverse all the way left along the top edge to finish as for Stealth Mission. <br/></problem>
<problem name="Monkey Scuttle" id="155" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="10." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Up Stealth Mission, but instead of the mantle traverse all the way right and finish up (mantle) Grande Allegro. Fun!</problem>
<problem name="Wisdom Of The Body Moving" id="165" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="11." stars="*" length="" fa="CW">SDS as for Stealth Mission, traverse all the way right, staying low, to finish up Grande Allegro. Nice!</problem>
<problem name="Petty Allegro" id="168" extra="(Stand)" grade="V0/1" number="12." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Not far right of GA, other side of the white moss, above the blackberries. Straight up wall + block.</problem>
<problem name="Got The Moves Like Jagger" id="169" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="13." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start as for previous problem but trend right, crossing the 'crack' to topout at the highest/furthest point R. Dubious rock quality makes for interesting but not hard moves.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="150">Fruehauf Main Wall</text>
<problem name="Fruehauf Traverse" id="33" extra=" " grade="V5+" number="1." stars="*">A good fingery traverse starts at the two finger pocket about 5m right of the start of PE and continues via pockety moves to SE. When the start of SE is reached, do the first tricky move of SE to reach the horizontal. Do about one move along the horizontal to the right from where your feet can reach the nice footholds on JJ and then get down onto the holds of JJ. There is a nice layaway pointing left and then a shallow pocket. From here continue right past A to finish at the start of PL. The traverse can also be done in reverse. Try and link up both directions if you don't feel the effects of lactic acid. Also there are extensions on either end.</problem>
<text class="text" id="34">Doing the first few moves of the various climbs here is another way to do some fun bouldering, as a lot of the climbs have cruxy moves in the first 4 metres or so</text>
<problem name="GH" id="35" extra=" " grade="V4" number="2." stars=" "/>
<problem name="SE" id="36" extra=" " grade="V3" number="3." stars=" "/>
<problem name="JJ" id="37" extra=" " grade="V5" number="4." stars=" "/>
<problem name="A" id="38" extra=" " grade="V3" number="5." stars=" "/>
<problem name="PL" id="39" extra=" " grade="V3" number="6." stars=" "/>
<problem name="WD" id="40" extra=" " grade="V3" number="7." stars=" "/>
<text class="heading3" id="41" new="false">Big Mutha Truckers Boulder</text>
<text class="intro" id="42" new="false">These problems are on the boulder at the extreme right hand end of Fruehauf, past This Is Steep Mum. Look right from this climb and you will see it, about 5m away. It has a low, wave wall on one side with 'V3' written in chalk.</text>
<problem name="Big Mutha Truckers" id="43" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="1." stars="" new="false">The aforementioned boulder. Start on the right hand side of the wave wall on jugs, move left to big sloper, then bust to jugs and easy topout. Good warm up</problem>
<problem name="Bigger Mutha Trucker" id="44" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="2." stars="" new="false">Start at the far right of the boulder on the big jug, bust out to the starting holds of Big Mutha Truckers and finish up this. Very low start</problem>
<problem name="Trucker's Stop" id="45" extra="(SDS)" grade="V4+" number="3." stars="" new="false">This problem is on the other side of the boulder. Start in the middle of the boulder on two really small crimps and big pull to sloper then top out.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="187">Tsunami Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="188">Next boulder along from Big Mutha Trucker Boulder. Rock is quite loose in places.</text>
<problem name="Every Breaking Wave" id="190" extra="(Hang)" grade="V1/2" number="2." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Hang start on lip as far left as possible, traverse lip all the way right across main face, around arête, to as far right as possible, mantle to finish.</problem>
<problem name="Poseidon's Puddle" id="193" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="2." stars="*" length="" fa="CW">Start half-lying/half-sitting on ramp below o/hung face. Up face, mantle. Short but sweet!</problem>
<problem name="I Can Jump Puddles" id="194" extra="" grade="V1" number="3." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Dynamic (jump) start to Poseidon’s Puddle. Start from flattish area in front of ramp. Jump to lip, mantle.<br/><br/></problem>
<problem name="Klingons On The Starboard Bow" id="191" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="4." stars="*" length="" fa="CW">3. Sitstart directly under arête/prow, one hand/foot on either side. Pull to loose-ish undercling on prow with L, then go L again to lip, mantle. A great problem!</problem>
<problem name="Caisson's Disease" id="192" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0/1" number=" 5." stars="" length="" fa="CW">: Contrived problem going up the right wall of boulder. Start matched on the slopey finger rail used for the R hand on Klingons… Throw to lip, mantle directly up. Arete is out of bounds.</problem>
<problem name="Lip Service" id="189" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="6." stars="" length="" fa="CW">. Start as far right as possible, traverse lip all the way left passed arête and across main face to as far left as possible, mantle to finish.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="163">Far Right Boulder</text>
<problem name="The Hanging Garden" id="245" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V3/4" number="1." stars="**" length="" fa="CW">Start left of obvious notch. Gain notch then pull up onto ramp on face, finish in high 'cave'. Advised to leave abseil rope for get off. A quality problem!</problem>
<problem name="project" id="244" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V?" number="2." stars="" length="" fa="">Start on big hold on face right of previous problem, left of Vertigo Issue. Hard moves up onto face/ramp, avoiding dinner plates. Finish as for previous problem. Advised to leave abseil rope for the get off.</problem>
<text class="text" id="156">These next problems are on the recently newly-exposed wall at the far right end of Fruehauf. Problems listed left to right, starting at the far left of the face to the left of the obvious arete.</text>
<problem name="Vertigo Issue" id="164" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V2/3" number="3." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Climbs the face just left of Areteaphobia using crack + arete. Top is very LOOSE, be warned!</problem>
<problem name="Areteaphobia" id="157" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V2" number="4." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Up the left face of the obvious sweet-looking arete. Top is loose.</problem>
<problem name="Original Sin" id="160" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V1/2" number="5." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Up the right face of arete. Don't use big blocks on right to start. Old-school adventure bouldering at its finest - finish straight up through looseness, etc, character-building but not too hard.</problem>
<problem name="Crack Addict" id="161" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V3/4" number="6." stars="*" length="" fa="CW">Brilliant line up the obvious o/hung crack. Uses crack + holds to right. Excellent!</problem>
<problem name="The Fifth Child" id="162" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V2" number="7." stars="*" length="" fa="CW">First pull uses crack, then the rest is fun climbing doing big moves on big holds.</problem>
<problem name=": The Good Craic Crack " id="177" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" number="8." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Next crack right of previous problem.</problem>
<problem name="Treehugger" id="178" extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" number="9." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start just right of previous problem, finish with both arms wrapped around tree!</problem>
<problem name="Obesity Cure" id="176" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" number="10." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start (matched) as for Vertigo Issue, traverse all the way R to finish up Treehugger. Don’t use big block beneath Original Sin.</problem>
<problem name="Virtuoso" id="179" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3/4" number="11." stars="*" length="" fa="CW">Start as for Treehugger, traverse all the way L to finish up Vertigo Issue. Don't use big block beneath Original Sin. Great climbing!</problem>
<problem name="Assault of the Senses" id="206" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" number="12." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start as for Treehugger, traverse left as per Virtuoso to finish up Crack Addict. Great climbing!</problem>
<problem name="Sensual Assault" id="207" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3/4" number="13," stars="*" length="" fa="CW">Start at Vertigo Issue, traverse right to finish up Crack Addict. Don’t use big block beneath Original Sin. Excellent climbing!<br/><br/></problem>
<text class="heading3" id="184">Little Boy Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="185">A small boulder on the way up to Far Right Boulder.</text>
<problem name="What About Me?" id="183" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0/1" number="1." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Sit start under o/hung face of prow. Up prow, trending slightly right. A cute little problem!</problem>
<problem name="What About Me, Too?" id="186" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0/1" number="2." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start as for previous problem, but move left as soon as possible. Another cute little problem!</problem>
<problem name="What About You?" id="195" extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" number="3" stars="" length="" fa="CW">SDS as far left as possible, go straight up. Easy.</problem>
<problem name="What About You, Too?" id="197" extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" number="4" stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start as for previous problem, move R to finish up What About Me?</problem>
<problem name="What About You, Too Two?" id="198" extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" number="5" stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start as for previous problem, traverse all the way R to finish.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="121">It Ain't Gogarth Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="123">This boulder is the obvious expanse of rock just passed Fruehaf, where the old track heads up the hill. The rock on this boulder is loose and friable - BE WARNED!</text>
<climb name="Why Not?" id="122" extra="SDS" grade="V1" number="1." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Ascends the furthest R arete from SDS. Finish with both hands on obvious high rail. DOES NOT TOP OUT - the rock up high is crap!</climb>
<climb name="Jigsaw of Sabres" id="124" extra="Stand" grade="V2" number="2." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Starts 2m left of Why Not?, under the left of two thin seams. Finishes with both hands on obvious rail at 3/4 height. Precision and delicacy required...</climb>
<problem name="Summit Plummet" id="199" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1/2" number="3." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Few metres left of previous problem, starts directly under obvious good jug at mid height just left of the chossy groove. Up, clearing loose rocks from jug + higher holds as you go. Last couple of moves tenuous, but a nice climb nonetheless!<br/></problem>
<problem name="Thin Cracks Are The Best Cracks" id="201" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1/2" number="4." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Just left of previous problem, start directly under obvious thin crack/seam. Uses both it and holds on either side of crack/seam, starting on the R but moving L higher up. Nice.</problem>
<problem name="Up The Loose Mossy Shit" id="125" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="5." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Few metres left of previous problem. Name says it all.</problem>
<problem name="Metasoma" id="126" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="6." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Just left of previous problem.</problem>
<problem name="Knifeblades To The Left" id="128" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1/2" number="7. " stars="" length="" fa="CW">Left again.Takes the wall just to the right of the crack, trending slightly left.</problem>
<problem name="Big holds/Shit Rock" id="129" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V1" number="8." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Left side of obvious arête. Gets looser the higher you go.Finish at ledge.</problem>
<problem name="Who Dares Wins" id="131" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V2" number="9." stars="*" length="" fa="CW">Finger crack just left of arête. Good value climb - just like the real thing! Finish at ledge.</problem>
<problem name="The Flake Mistake" id="132" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V1" number="10." stars="" length="" fa="CW">SDS two metres left of Who Dares Wins, directly under the obvious big flake.</problem>
<problem name="From Misery To Happiness" id="133" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V2" number="11." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Takes the relatively blank-looking wall between the last two problems. Starts as for Who Dares Wins but trends slightly left, uses obvious pocket up high. More committing than it looks thanks to friable rock.</problem>
<problem name="Lesser Of Two Evils" id="134" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V2" number="12." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Next line left of The Flake Mistake, where two pencil-thin cracks come down. Start directly under left crack at two small edges. Up and slightly right to good rail, tricky moves up using small pocket in right crack/mantle. Dubious rock quality.</problem>
<problem name="Santa Rocks" id="208" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="13" stars="" length="" fa="CW">Takes the line between The Flake Mistake and Lesser Of Two Evils. Tricky to the rail, get established on it and it's all over.</problem>
<problem name="Larry Duggan" id="135" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V1" number="13." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Furthest line to the left. Start directly under the obvious blocky flake. Traverse slightly right at ledge, then up to chossy top.</problem>
<problem name="Wet Dream Pony" id="166" extra="" grade="V2/3" number="14." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start as for Larry Duggan, traverse all the way right to finish up Why Not?.</problem>
<problem name="Larry Dreams Of Wet Ponies" id="167" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V3" number="15." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start as for Why Not?, traverse all the way left to finish up Larry Duggan.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="241">The Playground</text>
<text class="text" id="239">The Playground is an area comprising of a motley collection of boulders/buttresses, even a short wall or two, found in the bushes etc off to the left of where the old Rivulet Track used to go up the hill. About halfway up (not long passed the only 'boulder' on the left side of the track) head up the obvious dirty slope then right along the 'path' - the obvious big prow is The Prow. Up beyond it via the steep and dirty gully on its right is a short wall with a bit of potential. To its left are a few random chunks of rock that could yield up some decent problems after cleaning, including access and site prep.</text>
<problem name="The Prow" id="242" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V4/5" number="1" stars="***" length="" fa="CW (tr)">Straight up the face of the obvious 5-6m prow, using holds on either side and/or in the middle to gain the good ledge at three-quarter height, then top out directly in the middle. An EXCELLENT problem! (Landing is horrible - toprope recommended (as per FA))</problem>
<problem name="50 BC" id="243" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V3/4" number="2" stars="**" length="" fa="CW">Right wall of The Prow, using holds on the arête for the left hand when needed, topout mantel on left. Good prep for The Prow.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="46">McRobies Quarry</text>
<text class="text" id="47">There are a handfull of slabs and aretes in this very small quarry nearby to Fruehauf. To get there drive on McRobies Road and park near Syme Street and wander up the hill to the left where you can see the rocks.</text>
<image id="48" height="256" src="Fruehaufmcrobies.jpg"/>
<problem name=" " id="49" extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" number="1." stars=" ">Face left of bent tree</problem>
<problem name=" " id="50" extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" number="2." stars=" ">Face right of bent tree</problem>
<problem name="Tree's A Crowd L-R" id="255" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="2.5" stars="*" length="" fa="CW (first recorded, anyway...)">Start both hands on bent tree, traverse R acoss whole crag to finish up All In. Stays low except for V3 wall - crosses it at mid height. Excellent companion w/up to Tree's A Crowd R-L.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="51" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="3." stars=" ">Up arete, eliminate the big ledge</problem>
<problem name=" " id="52" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="4." stars=" ">Start as for 5 but go left and climb seam, don't use big ledge</problem>
<problem name="" id="100" extra="" grade="V2" number="4a." stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start directly under seam, don't use big ledge, climb seam.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="53" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="5." stars=" ">Corner</problem>
<problem name=" " id="54" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" number="6." stars="" length="" fa="SDS only CW">Up face without using corner to left or arete to right SDS exists, V3/4. Use arete for first pull only</problem>
<problem name=" " id="55" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="7." stars=" ">Arete</problem>
<problem name=" " id="56" extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" number="8." stars=" ">Slab</problem>
<problem name="All In" id="256" extra="(Stand)" grade="V0/1" number="8a" stars="*" length="" fa="CW">Contrived but fun: Both feet and hands must ONLY use either of the cracks on the right side of the slab, except for topout. A cute little problem!</problem>
<problem name="Tree's A Crowd R-L" id="257" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="8.5" stars="*" length="" fa="CW (first recorded, anyway...)">Start as for All In, traverse L acrfoss whole crag to finish with both hands on bent tree. Stays low except for V3 wall - crosses it at mid height. Excellent companion w/up to Tree's A Crowd L-R.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="57" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" number="9." stars="" length="" fa="">Slab just right of arete. Just using the arete would be quite tricky.</problem>
<problem name="Slabaddon" id="111" extra="" grade="V3" number="9a" stars="" length="" fa="CW">SDS at L arete,pull onto and finish up slab.</problem>
<problem name="The Dirty Couloir Arete" id="112" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" number="10" stars="" length="" fa="CW">Start with foot on the good hold on the left side of the arete. Stay left - don't use any holds on or pull around onto the slab proper, even on the topout (dirty). Contrived to some extent, but interesting climbing.</problem>
<problem name="The Dirty Couloir Arete Direct" id="114" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" number="10a" stars="" length="" fa="CW">Sit start to 10. Stay on left side of arete all the way to topout.</problem>
<problem name="The Fourth Arete" id="115" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="11" stars="" length="" fa="CW">On the next boulder to the right. Sit start on L arete. Stay on left side of arete.</problem>
<problem name="Stubbie" id="116" extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" number="12" stars="" length="" fa="CW">Short slab beside 11.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="58">Forest Road Quarries</text>
<text class="text" id="59">There are three old sandstone quarries at the end of Forest Road in West Hobart. Guides to come.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="226">Knocklofty Bloc</text>
<text class="text" id="227">At the beginning of the Knocklofty summit loop walk, take the left trail up about 30 meters or so and on the left of the track you will see this sandstone rock formation. Has the potential to be cleaned and a few easy lines to be sent.</text>
<image id="228" height="300" src="IMG20180722150220.jpg" width="400" printLayout="OneColumn"/>
<text class="heading2" id="60">Alexandra Battery</text>
<text class="text" id="61">This is the ruins of an old (convict era?) cannon battery in lower Sandy Bay. It was climbed on quite a bit in the early nineties until before the climbing gym. It provides a few vertical problems and traverses on mostly bluestone walls. It's a bit sharp in places. The grades are probably a bit random as they have been converted from non V grades.</text>
<text class="access" id="62">Drive towards Taroona along Sandy Bay Road until the lower Sandy Bay shops. Turn right between the two petrol stations into Wayne Avenue, then take the next left into Nile Avenue. Park at the end and walk to the ruins (20 seconds). Using the map, along with the route descriptions, it should be fairly easy to locate the climbs.</text>
<image id="63" height="291" src="Hobart Quarriesalexandra.jpg"/>
<problem name=" " id="64" extra=" " grade="V5" number="1." stars=" ">The bulge via the crack.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="65" extra=" " grade="V5" number="2." stars=" ">The bulge via undercling.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="66" extra=" " grade="V3/4" number="3." stars=" ">The bulge left of corner.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="67" extra=" " grade="V0" number="4." stars=" ">Easy traverse.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="68" extra=" " grade="V3/4" number="5a." stars=" ">Dyno from lowest brick pocket</problem>
<problem name=" " id="69" extra=" " grade="V1" number="5b." stars=" ">All holds start in doorway.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="70" extra=" " grade="V2" number="6." stars=" ">Corner.</problem>
<problem name="Traverse of Death and Transfiguration" id="71" extra=" " grade="V5" number="7." stars=" ">L to R.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="72" extra=" " grade="V5" number="8." stars=" ">Using RSG on roof, climb out of doorway.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="73" extra=" " grade="V3" number="9." stars=" ">Small edges to top.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="74" extra=" " grade="V2" number="10." stars=" ">Corner without using metal spike.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="75" extra=" " grade="V2" number="11." stars=" ">Chimney.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="76" extra=" " grade="V5" number="12." stars=" ">Up arete left of door, onto face.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="77" extra=" " grade="V6" number="13." stars=" ">Face left of archway, 2m. left.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="78" extra=" " grade="V7" number="14." stars=" ">Face, 2m left of 13.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="79" extra=" " grade="V6" number="15." stars=" ">Face, 2m left of 14.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="80" extra=" " grade="V4" number="16." stars=" ">Face, 2m left of 15. Start low.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="81" extra=" " grade="V?" number="l7." stars=" ">Traverse.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="82" extra=" " grade="V?" number="18." stars=" ">Low traverse, without using top of wall.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="83" extra=" " grade="V1" number="19." stars=" ">Arete.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="84" extra=" " grade="V1/2" number="20." stars=" ">Pockets left of boulder.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="85" extra=" " grade="V2" number="21." stars=" ">Face 2m. left of boulder. Sharp holds.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="86" extra=" " grade="V3/4" number="22." stars=" ">Arete.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="87" extra=" " grade="V1" number="23a." stars=" ">Middle of face. All holds.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="88" extra=" " grade="V3/4" number="23b." stars=" ">One handhold and one foothold only.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="89" extra=" " grade="V2" number="24." stars=" ">Right pillar of archway to top.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="90" extra=" " grade="V3" number="25." stars=" ">Central pillar.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="91" extra=" " grade="V8" number="26a." stars=" ">Free hanging double two finger dyno.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="92" extra=" " grade="V6" number="26b." stars=" ">Left pockets and feet on wall.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="93" extra=" " grade="V0" number="27." stars=" ">Slab.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="94" extra=" " grade="V1/2" number="28." stars=" ">Face using pockets 2m from right.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="95" extra=" " grade="V2" number="29a." stars=" ">The corner, using everything.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="96" extra=" " grade="V4" number="29b." stars=" ">The corner, minus the crack.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="97" extra=" " grade="V7/8" number="29c." stars=" ">The left face of the corner.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="98" extra=" " grade="V3" number="30a." stars=" ">The bulge, with the ring.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="99" extra=" " grade="V4" number="30b." stars=" ">The bulge, without using the ring.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="108">Kingston Dog Beach Boulder</text>
<text id="109">Just north of the mouth of Brown's Rivulet at Kingston is a freestanding boulder perched on the hillside. The new Alum Cliffs track goes right past it. About half a dozen problems, the best being the prominent arête. There are a couple of other chunks of rock on the hillside.</text>
<image id="203" height="533" src="KINGSTON-2.jpg" width="400"/>
<text class="heading2" id="211">Waterworks Reserve</text>
<text class="text" id="247">There is some bouldering on sandstone of mixed quallity in the hills just above waterworks reserve.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="246">Gentle Annie Falls</text>
<text class="text" id="212">Following the the pipeline track at Waterworks Reserve up the hill for about 5 minutes until you reach Gentle Annie Falls. There are two tiers of sandstone quarry.<br/>Currently developed lines are on the second quarry tier.</text>
<problem name="Shitless" id="236" extra="" grade="V2" number="" stars="" length="" fa="">This climb is on the obvious bulge to the left of the drain feature. Start on rail and climb up to high slab topout.</problem>
<text class="text" id="237">The main developed area is about 30m to the right of Shitless past a mosy highball slab.</text>
<image id="218" height="267" src="IMG20180728152146.jpg" width="200" printLayout="OneColumn">
<drawing>
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>214</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="The Frankest of Shadows" id="214" extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" number="1" stars="*" length="" fa="">Start right hand low on the arete and left hand on the spoodgy crimp.</problem>
<image id="219" height="400" src="IMG20180728152115.jpg" width="300" legend="false" printLayout="OneColumn">
<drawing>
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<legend>
<climb>215</climb>
<climb>220</climb>
<climb>221</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="The Deepest Sighs" id="215" extra="" grade="V2" number="2" stars="" length="" fa="">Sharing the same arete as Frankest of shadows. Start left hand using the arete and right hand using a low side pull.</problem>
<problem name=" Hail to the Thief" id="220" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="3" stars="" length="" fa="">Left hand on good sidepull. Starts left heads a little right then back left to top out.</problem>
<problem name="Hail What" id="234" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="3b." stars="*" length="" fa="">Start as for 3 Continue up 4.</problem>
<problem name="Nice for what" id="221" extra="" grade="V3" number="4" stars="*" length="" fa="">Start on long rail and mantle with not great feet.</problem>
<problem name="Let's Play Twister" id="229" extra="" grade="V4" number="" stars="" length="" fa="">Start on sloped rail just right of the mossy corner. Move up and down and left via some funky moves then easy to finish up 4.</problem>
<problem name="Pink Fluid" id="235" extra="" grade="V4/5" number="" stars="*" length="" fa="">Start as for Lets Play Twister, climb this to juggy pocket then traverse the crag via start hold of Nice for What and crimps till you join The Deepest Sighs, climb this to the top.</problem>
<text class="text" id="223">5 meters to the right of Nice for what is a blank face with text on it.</text>
<image id="222" height="400" src="IMG20180728152621.jpg" width="300" printLayout="OneColumn">
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>224</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Water Slide Project" id="224" extra="(Stand)" grade="Project - V10?" number="5" stars="" length="" fa="">Start left and right low on the flake. Flake running up the face, with a slab top out.<br/>Project</problem>
<text class="text" id="230">Continue on the main fire trail at the bottom past gentle Annie falls for 20 meters and you will see a free standing orange and grey boulder up to the left.</text>
<image id="233" height="534" src="IMG20180908132254.jpg" width="400" legend="true">
<drawing>
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>231</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Dreaming of Rocklands" id="231" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="1." stars="*" length="" fa="">Sit start at break. Up on orange slopers then jump to rail.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="248">Creekside Boulders</text>
<text class="text" id="249">These boulders are in the band of sandstone above the creek flowing into the top dam. The rock here is generally better than at Gentle Annie falls. To acces them follow the larger track up the valley (not the one right on the creek), it has a sign about Charles Darwin at the start. A few minutes along this you will reach a chossy cliff up to the left. Follow the rough track up to the left of the clif then turn right to get above them. There is an ampitheater of rock with a large cave in the middle.</text>
<problem name="Fuck the Impending Apocalypse" id="250" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V1" number="1." stars="*" length="" fa="">Just to the left of the cave. Climb the blunt arete to ledge then up slab. Might be a bit harder if you are short.</problem>
<text class="text" id="251">Further along the track, past the cliff there is another band of rock, near the end of this just before the track turns up the hill there is an overhanging boulge feature and a nice face capped with a roof. (The boulders need more cleaning)</text>
<problem name="Gotta Start Somewhere" id="253" extra="" grade="V0" number="2." stars="" length="" fa="">Furthest left line on the boulge. Start on jugs under lip then up to mantle. Keep feet right of the dirt.</problem>
<problem name="Day of the Hamster" id="254" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="3." stars="" length="" fa="">Next line right. Start on rail under roof jut to the left of the chossy cave. Up via crimps and dirty pocket.</problem>
</guide>
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