<guide> <header autonumber="true" camping="" access="" history="" intro="" acknowledgement="" rock="" sun="" walk="" name="The Sun Lounge" id="1"/> <text id="3" class="text">This sun drenched north facing crag is a bit of a hike, but has a good selection of mid range routes. Perfect for a sunny winters day.<br/><br/>The Sun Lounge is basically similar to the Superunknown Buttress in aspect and distance from the river bed, but is about 500metres further upstream (east). Rather that bush bashing up the river bed, it is easier to walk up the ridgeline then drop down to the crag.<br/><br/>Access as for the Colleseum. Walk up the steep gully that separates the Cave Sector and the Terrastomp Area, then follow a yellow tagged track up and along the ridge line east for about 10 minutes. Just as your about to consider that it has been too far to walk to bother climbing you'll be about level with the top of the crag. Scramble down gullies to the east of the crag, then walk back west under the base of the crag to reach the current routes.<br/><br/>Note that there are two tiers, an upper tier (with all the routes developed to date) and a lower tier. These tiers are separated by a 5 to 10 metre wide flattish area. Take care when looking up at routes or taking photos, stepping backwards at times would be unfortunate.</text> <climb name="Muffin Top" id="2" fa="Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni, June 2020. " grade="22" length="15 m" number="1." extra="6Þ" stars="**">It bulges.</climb> <climb name="Ra" id="4" fa="Dan Johnson, 10 September 2018" grade="23" length="25m" number="2." extra="12Þ " stars="***">Dan's Magnum Opus. He claims its "One of the best lines of its grade at Sand River". Former Craglets quality control master Roger Parkyn has even endorsed is as "That was f**king awesone", before launching into another grading tirade, so its definitely got something going for it.<br/><br/>Start up the doddle warmup slab, traverse right on technical underclings then blast your way up the final pillar headwall. There is a fixed cable draw at the start of the traverse to assist with cleaning (re-clip into it on the way back down).</climb> <climb name="Ra Direct" id="5" fa="Garry Phillips" grade="24" length="25m" number="3." extra="Þ" stars="">The direct start to Ra.</climb> <climb name="Titanium" id="6" fa="Garry Phillips, 10 September 2018" grade="25" length="15m" number="4." extra="Þ" stars="">Up then bust out left at the 5th bolt.</climb> <climb name="Unamed 834" id="7" fa="Garry Phillips" grade="24" length="" number="5." extra="Þ" stars="*">As for Titanium, but finish direct.</climb> <climb name="Unamed 835" id="8" fa="Garry Phillips" grade="25" length="12m" number="6." extra="Þ" stars="">Direct finish to Nuovi Pitoni.</climb> <climb name="Nuovi Pitoni" id="9" fa="Dan Johnson, May 2020" grade="24" length="12m" number="7." extra="6Þ" stars="*">Up the crack to the third bolt then follow the rising traverse out right to the arete. Take care to clip the extra hanger to protect you from an awkward swing should you fall on the traverse. Finish around the nose and up the wall above.</climb> <climb name="#Read the Book" id="10" fa="Garry Phillips, December 2018" grade="19" length="18m" number="8." extra="8Þ" stars="**">Classic. Steep right facing corner system covered in jugs leads to a brilliant thin bridging corner crux at the top.</climb> <climb name="And if the Wax Melts?" id="11" fa="Owen Gervasoni, February 2020" grade="20" length="12m" number="9." extra="7Þ" stars="*">The wall between the right facing corner and the arete at the right end of the main Sundeck Wall. Some unique holds, with an awkward crux exiting the scoop feature at the second bolt.</climb> <climb name="Photon" id="12" fa="Roger Parkyn, December 2018." grade="17" length="15m" number="10." extra="7Þ" stars="*">Climbs the arete at the right end of the Main Sundeck Wall. Graded for the red point, with the crux right where it should be, clipping the chains.</climb> <text id="13" class="text">About 50 metres to the right of Photon, and after a short scramble uphill, the upper tier continues with the steep slab of the Afternoon Wall. In summer it gets shade after about 3pm.</text> <climb name="Wall of the Late Afternoon Shade" id="14" fa="Owen Gervasoni, December 2018." grade="21" length="15m" number="11." extra="Þ" stars="*">On the left side of the wall is a set of parallel "tram track" seams. Up these.</climb> <climb name="Der Grune Punkt" id="15" fa="Dan Johnson, October 2020" grade="26" length="17m" number="12." extra="8Þ" stars="**">Dan's finger shredding thin wall. Intense and bouldery.</climb> <climb name="Froschriemen" id="16" fa="Dan Johnson, December 2018." grade="20" length="18m" number="13." extra="9Þ" stars="*">Start as per Der Grune Punkt, at the break traverse right to arete then up. Great climbing and positions, but some poor rock and an ordinary finish detract.</climb> </guide> |