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<guide pagesize="300"> <header id="143" name="Elderslie" walk="5-20 min" sun="Mixed" rock="Sandstone" intro="The bouldering at Elderslie is quite good, on sandstone boulders situated amongst dry woodland. <br/>There are access issues for the boulders on private land (e.g. Forbidden Forest), so best to stick to those on public land (see map below).<br/>" access="To get there from Hobart: drive up the Midlands Highway towards Brighton. Take the left hand road just before Brighton (Elderslie Road). Follow this road for 15 minutes or so before reaching Elderslie (not much more than a few farms and a golf club). Take a right a few kilometres out of Elderslie (Clifton Vale Road) and follow this dirt road for about 5 kilometres before reaching a Y intersection; take the right road (to Dysart), you will go up a rise and then the road will go down again, at the bottom of this hill on the left is the fire trail about 1 kilometre from the intersection. There are two parking areas.<br/><br/>The first parking is a pullover on the right, opposite the obvious Roadside boulders. Unless you can convince the new landowners otherwise, the boulders accessed from this parking spot are on private land and access is at your own risk! You walk up here for 100m or so and then to your left is Slug Rock (amongst the trees) and the Ant Rocks are about 100m uphill from here. Forbidden forest is a few hundred meters south.<br/><br/>For the second parking area to access public boulders, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left. The gully is to the East." acknowledgement="" history="It was originally discovered by Mike Berry and developed by Stu Bowling & friends in early 2001. The area got some more life in 2006 with the discovery of the Gully by Jon Nermut and Dave Humphries, and then later the Arch and the Terrace." camping="" autonumber="false"/> <text id="172" class="heading2">Elderslie land tenure</text> <image id="171" width="1000" height="707" src="Elderslie land tenure.jpg"/> <text id="173" class="heading1">Private boulders (no access)</text> <text class="heading2" new="false" number="null." id="5">Roadside Boulders</text> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="6">There are 4 or so obvious freestanding boulders right by the parking area. These have never been developed properly. There are probably about 10 problems to be done here, but they need some cleaning. They are literally 10m from the road, and there is no fence, so access should not be an issue.</text> <text class="heading2" id="7">The Block</text> <image src="Elderslieblockmap.jpg" id="8" height="449"/> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="9">Park at the pullover on the right side of the road just before the roadside boulders and walk along the road for about 50m, there is a bit of a track up to the left. Walk to the top of this first small hill to reach the Block via other boulders including the Voltage boulder. Many new problems still await ascents in this area though rock quality might not be as good as some of the more established problems. These boulders are presumably on the same land as the Ant and Slug boulders, and so have the same access problems, but they are a bit further away from the house.</text> <text class="heading3" id="10">Block Boulder</text> <image src="ElderslieElderslie_topos_blockA.jpe" id="11" height="359"/> <problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="12">Sit start up arete</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="13">Sit start on pocket</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="14">From pocket and slope to top</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="15">Sit start just right of arete</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="16">Up arete</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V5+" name="The Urvile" number="6." stars="*" id="17">Sit start, up to slopey break and top out.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V8" name=" " number="7." stars=" " id="18">Stand start up middle of face</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="8." stars=" " id="19">Up just left of arete</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="9." stars=" " id="20">Sit start to top out</problem> <text class="heading3" id="21">Yellow Boulder</text> <image src="ElderslieElderslie_topos_InfrontBlockA.jpe" id="22" height="176"/> <problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="23">Jump to jugs, top out</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V5" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="24">Sit start-crimp-jugs-topout</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="25">Highball up blunt arete</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="26">Start at back of roof</problem> <text class="heading3" id="27">Others</text> <problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="10." stars=" " id="28">Stand start on side pull with left, pop to top</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number=" " stars=" " id="29">Project, sit start to 10</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V8+" name="Voltage" number="11." stars="*" id="30">Up slightly overhanging face on very thin holds. Distinctive triangular face on the way to the Block.</problem> <text class="heading3" id="33">Slug Rock</text> <text class="access" id="32">Park at the bottom of the fire trail on the left. Walk up the fire trail for about 200m before shooting off to the left for about 80m, if you get to the top of the hill you've gone to far. Access is now an issue to this area as a house has been built just down hill from Slug Rock. Confirm accessibility with land owners before climbing.</text> <image src="Elderslieslug1.jpg" id="34" height="178"/> <problem extra=" " grade="VE" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="35">Easy, up slab</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="36">Start in corner and up</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="37">Sit start on crimps</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="38">Sit start on crimps up to finger lock</problem> <text class="heading3" id="39">Ant Boulder</text> <text class="access" id="40">The ant boulder is just up the hill from Slug Rock and Boulder 2 is just around the hill from Slug Rock</text> <image src="Elderslieant.jpg" id="41" height="359"/> <problem extra=" " grade="V1" name="Bogus" number="1." stars=" " id="42">Stand start at jugs. Up through good holds to top out.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V3+" name="Ant Trail" number="2." stars=" " id="43">Stand start. Up through good edges, slopey top out.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="44">Sit start on small edges, move left before trending right to top out on good holds.</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4+" name="Goldfinger" number="4." stars="*" id="45">Sit start under small roof. Move through reasonable edges, dyno to lip, mantle top out.</problem> <text class="heading3" id="46">Boulder 2</text> <text class="text" id="47">This outcrop is just to the left of Slug rock.</text> <image src="Elderslieboulder2.jpg" id="48" height="178"/> <problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="49">Sit start on lip of small cave. Up through good holds trending left to slopey top out.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="50">Same as for 1, trending right slightly to worse top out.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V5" name="Watch Me" number="3." stars=" " id="51">Stand start at good holds at half height. Straight up through reasonable holds to crux slopey top out. Good spotting required.</problem> <text class="heading2" id="52">Forbidden Forest</text> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="53">The Forbidden Forest is currently off limits to climbing. Do not climb here without permission.</text> <text class="access" id="54">Park as for the block area and walk across the paddock, obviously not in the poppy season. Cross the creek (sometimes dry) and turn left up towards the fence line, follow this (and the overhead power lines) until you get to a gate on the left. Go through this and continue along the fence / power line and the 4WD track for another 100m or so. The boulders are up to the left amongst the trees, the first to come into sight is the overhang with problem 1. on it. As with all the climbing at Elderslie, the Forbidden Forest is on private land. To gain permission call into the white house marked on the map.</text> <image src="Elderslieforb.JPG" id="55" height="472"/> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name="Red Dragon" number="1." stars=" " id="56">The first problem to come into view when walking along the 4WD track, climbs out through the roof, trending left via sloper at the top.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="57">There are various problems up this face</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="58">Project, up left arete</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V9" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="59">Sit start up wall</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Sams Arete" number="5." stars="*" id="60">Sit start on edges to slopey lay back, dyno to jug. Powerful and hard as is to be expected.</problem> <image src="Elderslieslowtwitch.jpg" id="61" height="300"/> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8+" name="Slow twitch" number="6." stars="**" id="62">Sit start trending slightly right on small edges. Dyno for jug at lip.</problem> <image src="Eldersliescopion.jpg" id="63" height="300"/> <problem extra=" " grade="V3/4" name="Scorpion" number="7." stars=" " id="64">Campus out to lip and left. A bit scary, use some mats.</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="Jerry the Belly Button Elf" number="8." stars=" " id="65">Sit Start, up the right hand side of the short black wall.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="9." stars=" " id="66">Sit start up middle of wall</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Tuna Brillo" number="10." stars=" " id="67">Up middle of sandy cave via slopes and layaway to top. Attentive spotters!</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="11." stars=" " id="68">Up wall around arete from sandy cave</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V8" name="Wrap it" number="12." stars=" " id="69">Sit start double pinching, up via edges and arete.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="13." stars=" " id="70">Stand start up arete just right of 12</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="California Girls" number="13a." stars="*" id="71">Sit start 2m right of arete and climb left into no 13. on crimps.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V2" name="Pavlova" number="14." stars=" " id="72">Up middle of face on positive edges.</problem> <image src="Elderslieelmo.jpg" id="73" height="375"/> <problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="15." stars=" " id="74">Up wall</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="16." stars=" " id="75">Up wall</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Elmos world" number="17." stars="**" id="76">Sit start left of arete on good holds. Move straight up (no arete) on good holds to lip.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V2+" name="The Pox" number="18." stars=" " id="77">Up mossy face on small crumbly edges. Poxy!</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V5" name=" " number="19." stars=" " id="78">Up smooth slightly overhanging face</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="Locust Abortion Technician" number="20." stars="*" id="79">Sit start on jug, move left, up around bulge.</problem> <problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V0" name="Big Al's Meat Patties" number="20a." stars=" " id="80">High ball up crusty side of largest boulder.</problem> <text class="access" id="81">These problems are in the cave, described from left to right.</text> <problem extra=" " grade="V5" name="Cams Dyno" number="21." stars=" " id="82">Dyno from the jug to the top.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="22." stars=" " id="83">Start with left heel on the jug in 21 and hands on crimps, move right on edges and up.</problem> <problem extra=" " grade="V8" name=" " number="23." stars=" " id="84">Start at back of cave and climb out on small edges.</problem> </guide> |