<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide guidestars="*">
<text
class="heading1">Mt Geryon and the Acropolis Guide
</text>
<text
class="text">This is an online version of the guide that appeared in the 1984 edition of Rock, written by Chris Baxter. </text>
<text
class="heading2">Introduction
</text>
<text
class="text">The W faces of the two peaks offer shorter, less serious climbs on generally sound, clean rock. The E face of Mt Geryon is a big cliff made more serious by loose rock and vegetation, particularly on low-angled sections. The N face of the Acropolis has sustained crack climbing up searing 200 m lines.
</text>
<text
class="text">Access is by Lake St Clair and Pine Valley Hut. Five km up Cephissus Creek from the hut is the sheltered Geryon Campsite [Note: the Geryon campsite is no longer signposted - Follow the track towards the Acropolis, past the falls to a large, fallen tree on the left which runs alongside the track with an Acropolis signpost and arrow on it. Duck under this and follow the creek upstream where yellow and red tapes mark the way. The Campsite is not that obvious or well marked] From here a short, rough track, marked with tape, heads NE to the foot of a remarkable scree chute which leads up and R to the foot of the W face of the South Peak of Mt Geryon. From here rough tracks go N and S below the cliffs. The former goes, past the Foresight, to the summit of Geryon's North (highest) Peak. The latter, with a low variation, leads to the Acropolis-Geryon saddle, an inspiring place. A rough track continues down and along under the E face of Mt Geryon; immediately S of the gully leading to the North Peak-Ducane Plateau col is a bivouac cave (called Heim; five people). A good spring is about 75m N. Fuel stoves are mandatory in the national park.
The foot of the N face of the Acropolis is reached by a sidle, keeping to scree, from below the Acropolis-Geryon saddle.
The W face of the Acropolis is reached from the saddle. (Alternatively it can be reached from the track between Pine Valley Hut and the Acropolis - sidle N when the cliff appears L of the track.) Descent From the Acropolis (apart from the track) is by a steep scramble (not with heavy packs!) down the W edge of the N face to the saddle.
</text><text
class="text">The four peaks of Geryon are normally descended by their respective 'normal routes', often with some abseiling. Summer is the rockclimbing season with February and March having the best weather.
</text>
<text
class="text">There are bus services to Derwent Bridge and Lake St Clair from both Hobart and Launceston. There is a 5.5 km walk from DB to Cynthia Bay at the S end of Lake St Clair. A power boat can be booked at the kiosk to avoid the long walk to Narcissus Hut at the head of the lake. The walk from Narcissus Hut to Pine Valley Hut is along easy tracks (choice of two) and takes about three hours. Transport may be seasonal - check in advance.
</text>
<text
class="heading2">Mt Geryon West Face
</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="" length="?m" name="North Peak Normal Route"
stars="">From the Cephissus scree chute traverse N below the cliffs of the South Peak. From near the foot of the Foresight descend a large gully and continue N under the cliffs of the North Peak to a scree gully. From the top of this go S along the level ridge and down to a saddle. Scramble up S to the N summit of the peak. (Continue S to a small col below the 4m summit block of the S summit)
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="307m" name="Damocles" number=""
stars="">Discontinuous, broken and escapable, this is the obvious line on the SW face of Mt Geryon's North Peak - it leads to the gap between the North Peak and the turret to the N. Start below a dark corner.
1) 35 m Go diagonally R up the R-slanting corner to just below a scree slope
2) 23 m Go diagonally L across the scree and L round a large block to below two corners.
3) 33 m From the ledge 3 m above, take the L line for 3 m. Go into the R line and follow it to a large ledge at 16 m. Traverse 7 m L and up to a stance.
4) 40 m (crux) Climb the line on the R to a ledge at 16 m. Go up L to a large ledge below a sleep wall. Jam the crack in this to a ledge then up and R to a long vegetated corner ledge, below the Sword!
5) 37 m Traverse 5 m R to the scrubby line. Climb it for 5 m and move L under a bulge. Go up for 7 m to a vegetated ledge which leads L to a tight chimney which is climbed for 13 m to a large flake on the L
6) 43 m The gully to the gap.
7) 36m Head towards the summit, deviating slightly L on a thin flake at about 13 m.
8) 36m Continue up, veering R to a large ledge.
9) 24 m To summit (slab).
Rob Taylor, Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr, varied leads, 27-1-68
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="106m" name="Damocles Direct"
number=""
stars="">As the name implies, this climb straightens out the original route. (Originally named Susan.) Start as for Damocles, at an S on the rock.
1) 38m (crux) Bridge the dark corner to a ledge on the R at 23m. Go up to a large grassy ledge.
2) 40m Scramble up for 7 m. Climb the L crack. Go up ledges to above a corner
3) 28 m Climb L of the crack to a large ledge (the fourth belay of Damocles). Climb the corner (up the Sword) and through bushes. Belay in the corner at the R end of a bushy ledge.
4)-8) Climb the crack at the L end of the ledge which is the "tight chimney" on the fifth pitch of Damocles. The rest of this route is more or less as for Damocles.
Clive Parker, Roger Caffin, alternate leads, 23-2-68. Alan and Geoff Gledhill did the first free ascent of pitch one (originally 12, M3) on 22-1-69</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="9" length="91m" name="Foresight Normal Route"
number=""
stars="**">An excellent outing into exciting country. Scramble up the huge gully below the NW face of the South Peak and head for a chimney leading to the Foresight-North Peak notch
1) 25 m (crux) Climb the chimney then scramble to the notch.
2) 33 m Go up the W side of the Foresight to a step on the skyline overlooking the E face.
3) 33 m Exposed but easy climbing on the E side to the top
(FA details unknown)
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="182m" name="A Common Thirst"
number=""
stars="">A wandering effort which could be improved with harder and more direct climbing. (The first ascent party abseiled the route leaving slings.) Start on the NW face of the South Peak about 20 m R of the prominent chimney-gully a short way SW of the col between the South Peak and the Foresight; at an easy looking chimney-gully
1) 27 m Up R side of chimney. When it steepens go R round the arete and up to the end of an obvious R-leaning diagonal.
2) 25 m Scramble up slightly L. Climb the crack in the R wall of the corner. Go towards prominent slabs up R. Traverse R across a bushy ledge and climb a short corner to a large ledge below a slab.
3) 25 m Reverse the corner and traverse. Climb the R wall of the obvious corner until forced L to the arete. Go up aretes and corners lending towards L side of headwall. Good ledge with blocks.
4) 15 m Up to next ledge. Step L round the arete and climb the wall to a large ledge at the foot of a grassy ramp.
5) 50 m Go along the ramp to the first line. Up the gully into a corner and up it.
6) 30 m Climb the wall above for 2 m or so and go L to a groove. Go up past blocks and a small roof to a long narrow ledge below the headwall.
7) 10 m (crux) From the L end of the fault, climb the wall, stepping L at the top.
Kieran Loughran, John Stone, alternate leads, January 1979</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="114m" name="Vulcan" number=""
stars="">It seems very likely that A Common Thirst is a repeat of this climb on the NW corner of the South Peak except that ACT includes a short direct finish (the crux) whereas Vulcan moves R to finish up an easy gully (probably as for Soltanic). Many variations are possible in this area. Start in the gully 45 m below the base of the Foresight.
1) 21 m Up and diagonally R.
2) 15 m Cracks to big blocks.
3) 18 m Diagonally L round scrubby corner then diagonally R.
4) 18 m Up slabs then diagonally R for 8 m on easier ground.
5) 20 m Up obvious line to R of overhangs.
6) 18 m Up to grassy gully leading to top.
Tom Terry, Alan Cross, leads unknown l967</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="170m" name="Solantic" number=""
stars="*">Varied climbing starting from the gully leading to the Foresight-South Peak col.
1) Climb the NW face
2) Traverse R to the W face proper
3) Slab and corner
4) (crux) Chimney and off-width
5) Easy gully to N end of the South Peak.
Kim Bischoff, Grant Dixon, Phil Robinson, varied leads Christmas 1979</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="175m" name="West Wall Eliminate"
number=""
stars="**">Good climbing on sound rock. The fourth pitch is a gem. Start below the big corner in the middle of the W face of the South Peak.
1) 37 m Climb the corner and continue up the narrow, slanting slab. Now up to a big ledge.
2) 43 m Traverse L and climb the corner. Step L and climb the diagonal crack to a small, slanting ledge.
3) 37 m Go up the main corner to a huge block 12 m below the roof
4) 33m (crux) Go up for 2 m. Traverse L across the steep wall. Follow the corner diagonally L to a good ledge.
5) 25 m The crack above.
Chris Dewhirst, Roland Pauligk, John Moore, varied leads, 24-2-67</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="235m" name="Bad Craziness" number=""
stars="">The second route up the West face of the South Peak, which is unfortunately marred by some loose rock. Start at the grass terrace 50m right of the West Wall Eliminate and directly above a small cairn marking the route along the terrace.
1) 45m Climb a short corner with an awkward start, then easily up left and straight up (still easy) to a ledge 15m below a major corner.
2) 40m Move up to the corner, then follow it for a few moves (it becomes an overhanging chimney further up). Exit up left to a ramp. Continue up to a ledge.
3) 35m Continue up left in the line then climb the wall above at the first opportunity, passing just left of a pinnacle of loose rock. Continue up to a stance.
4) 40m The easy (but loose) line leads straight up, via a short excursion to the left, to the ledge above the V chimney.
6) 30m Continue up the chimney-gulley over loose blocks to exit up left in a black groove which leads (unpleasant and loose) to the southwest corner of the summit plateau. (This nasty section is best avoided by continuing through the easy chimney above the last belay until it joins the descent route from the peak.)
C.Baxter, D.Gairns, G,Talbett, Jan 89</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13 A1" length="123m" name="Elf" number=""
stars="">Sounds sus. On the S face of the South Peak are two cracks. Elf starts from a sloping grass ledge below the L crack which it follows diagonally L to the top of the SW face. The start is marked with an E.
1) 33 m Climb the corner using aid (presumably one point) at the overhang. Continue up slab to gully.
2) 36 m Up the gully to a large ledge on L.
3) 33m (Crux) Strenuously up the R crack to a large sloping ledge
4) 21 m The L line; a tight chimney.
Tony Crapper, John Bennet, varied leads, Gordon Talbett, 1-3-1968</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="9" length="46m" name="Pixie" number=""
stars="">The crack R of Elf is reached after a 40m slab scramble and a traverse.
1) 30 m (crux) The line involves a thrutch in a V crack
2) 16 m The line.
Bruno Zeller, Tony Crapper, February 1968
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="4" length="" name="South Peak Normal Route"
number=""
stars="">From the head of the scree chute leading down to Cephissus Creak scramble up R to pick up a route to the bivouac cave above and N of the Acropolis Geryon saddle. Go directly above the cave and scramble N below the W cliffs of the South Spur. Drop down a steep gully beneath the NW arete of the South Spur into another gully which leads to the col between the South Peak and the South Spur Go up to just below the col then either traverse easily on the W side, below the ridge, until you can scramble up to a large slab or, alternatively, follow the skyline ridge (exposed) from the col to a slab. Climb the slab and gullies to the top. (FA details unknown)
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="100m" name="Morning Tea" number=""
stars="*">Enjoyable and straightforward, this route climbs the middle of the N wall of the South Spur. Start in the gully about 50 m below the South Peak-South Spur notch.
1) and 2) Straight up the wall in a series of steps to the NW arete
3) 15 m Arete.
Chris Rathbone, Phil Robinson varied leads, 25-2-1983
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="102m" name="Piece of Cake" number=""
stars="*">Reputedly low on pro on the third pitch, this route follows the NW arete of the South Spur. Start from the col before the drop to the gully leading to the South Peak-South Spur notch.
1) 24 m (crux) Start on the L of the face and move R to a ledge at 15 m. Move to R side of face and climb thin diagonal cracks to a big ledge
2) 27 m Climb up from the R edge of the arete and aim for the L of the sharp arete above. Belay on ledge above arete
3) 36 m Up L of main arete 4)15 m Up to summit.
Allan Keller Terry Costigan, leads unknown, 7-12-1967</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="4" length="" name="South Spur Normal Route"
number=""
stars="">From the Acropolis-Geryon saddle follow the skyline ridge moving out over E face (exposed) where necessary. Mostly scrambling (FA details unknown)
</climb>
<climb
extra="(or 14 A1)" grade="17" length=""
name="Mt Geryon Traverse" number=""
stars="***">The two way traverse of Geryon's four peaks makes a long and demanding, but not committing, "mountaineering" day. Climb the South Spur Normal Route. Go to the N end of the summit. Abseil 33 m then climb down 40 m to the col between peaks. Along skyline to the South Peak. From its N tip climb down 12 m to a ledge. Abseil 33 m to the South Peak-Foresight col. 15 m: Go to a vertical crack under the L end of a large sloping slab. Get on to the slab and move R to overlook the E face. Fixed peg belay. 15 m: Step wide to the R across a corner (exposed). Up more easily to a bushy ledge. 7 m: To summit. Reverse the last two pitches of the Foresight Normal Route to the col. 18 m: Go R a couple of metres, climb an easy crack, traverse L over slabs and go up to a large ledge. 39 m: Go up steeply to a ledge at 5 m. Go L along the ledge and go up 3 m R of a corner. Move up and across L to the corner. Continue L to a chimney and climb it. 33 m: Easily to the S summit of the North Peak.
On the return journey climb down the route of ascent of the North Peak, abseiling the lower 5m of the second pitch, to the col. Climb the top two pitches of the Foresight Normal Route. From a ledge 3 m below the S end of the Foresight abseil 25 m to the col. 27 m: Climb the obvious direct line 8 m R of the nose of the South Peak using four aids and go up an easy chimney to below a large overhang 27 m Climb round R of the overhang, move L and up to the ridge crest and summit. Reverse the South Peak Normal Route to the col. Scramble diagonally R, then L over easy rock to the scrubby gully which leads to the summit of the South Spur. Descend the South Spur Normal Route. Lyle Closs Reg Williams alternate leads 31-1971
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="40m" name="Swiss Guide" number=""
stars="">Head up the square corner from the Foresight-South Peak notch. Above the sloping ledge, follow the crack up the corner past two bulges. Ascend the east face for the last 3m.
P.Schwitter, S.Bunton, G.Jordan, Mar 88.
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">Mt Geryon East Face
</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="14" length="193m"
name="East Face of the South Spur (Original Route)" number=""
stars="">This sustained and scrubby effort is based on the main line on this face. (In February 1968 Roger Caffin and Tony Crapper, in attempting to repeat this climb, did what they claimed was a new route, or at least a new finish, which they called Dido. It appears unlikely, however, that this was a significant variation on the original climb.) Start R of the distinctive orange streaks and L of the big corner.
1) 37 m A series of cracks and corners
2) 30 m Straight up for 21 m then diagonally L to just below and R of a sentry box
3) 12 m Traverse 6 m L. Climb the corner past a large tree
4) 37 m Climb the chimney above to an attractive flake. From the scrubby ledge at 18 m, go up to the base of a V corner.
5) 37 m (crux) Traverse 2 m R and go up the diagonal crack for 12 m. Climb the corner above and go diagonally L to a slanting, scrubby ledge. 6) 40 m Wander up to hit the ridge 30 m S of the summit.
John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, alternate leads, 18-2-1967</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14 A1" length="371m"
name="East Face of the South Peak (Original Route)" number=""
stars="">Loose rock and vegetation are the order of the day on this lengthy ramble. Start by scrambling up a short gully to a chimney below the South Peak-Foresight col.
1) 48 m The chimney to a scree slope.
2) 39 m Across L on scree to the foot of the huge ramp
3) 33 m Up ledges on the L arete of the ramp to a ledge with loose blocks just L of the main corner. Piton belay (fixed).
4) 33 m The corner to a good ledge
5) 30 m Straight up for 20 m on steep scrub. Up and L on grass to a bollard
6) 35 m Traverse L (grass) for 10 m to a corner which is climbed to a bushy ledge
7) 33 m L on bushes, then up a slab before moving back R to a ledge with a fixed peg belay
8) 30 m Go R for 7 m to a bushy corner which is climbed, over a large flake, to a good ledge
9) 26 m Go diagonally L (easy) to a peg belay on the L wall of a vegetated corner
10) 23 m (crux) Climb the corner (two piton runners) (or make an early excursion on to the dirty R wall) which eases (still bushy) to a ledge and bolt anchor
11) 26 m Go up the gully for 6 m to fork to L. Climb overhanging loose blocks and go up the corner (fixed peg runners) and move L to a small stance on the face. Tension L from a fixed peg to a bolt which is used to lower into the gully on L (peg belay).
12) 15 m The easy but loose gully.
Allan Keller, Tom Terry, Mike Douglas, leads unknown 6-3-1966. On the second ascent, 17-2-1967, Roland Pauligk, Chris Baxter and Philip Stranger did the tenth pitch with only one peg for aid (previously 8 m of aid) which Jerry Grandage dispensed with on 23-1-1968</climb>
<climb
extra="(actually 19?)" grade="17" length="357m" name="Orion"
number=""
stars="**">The second half of this route gives small stances and very sustained climbing up a searing line leading to the South Peak-Foresight col. (One long abseil and scrambling down the W side to get off.)
1) 48 m As for previous route
2) 50 m Up scree to a ledge below the line
3) 48 m Up to foot of chimney
4) 35 m Chimney
5) 30 m The line
6) 48 m Up to below large overhang. Bolt anchors
7) 35 m (crux) Climb the overhang and continue in the line to a stance
8) 48 m The line to another small stance
9) 15 m Up to a ledge then up passing a good cave (shelter) on R.
Roland Pauligk, Peter Canning, varied leads, 18-2-1970. First free ascent (three aids from pitch 7) Peter Treby, Terry Brookes, varied leads, January 1974</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17 A3" length="365m" name="Titan" number=""
stars="">This unrepeated scrubby monster was a big effort for the day but could well go free to an off-width king
1) 48 m As for Orion etc
2) 45 m To upper R edge of scree
3) 48 m (13) Step R and up for 18 m. Go diagonally R below a smooth wall and up a short corner. Go to a steep crack which is climbed. Go L to a good ledge
4) 24 m (13) Down L then up to a corner. Climb this for 5 m to a scrubby ledge. Go 3 m L to next corner which is climbed for 5 m. Exit R to sloping scrubby ledge below large corner.
5) 26 m (17 A2) Sustained climbing with three (spaced) pegs for aid up the corner to ledge on R. Bolt anchor
6) 21 m (13 A3) Aid L wall of corner (bolt) and move R back to corner. Free to roof then aid round it and up to second small stance.
7) 24 m (13 A2) Climb line on R free for 8 m then aid diagonally R for 5 m to a ledge. Easily R to next corner - aided to ledge
8) 36 m (13) Scrubby corner above to bushy ledge. The corner above is followed to a sloping ledge on L.
9) 21 m (13 A2) Step R, free small corner on L (fixed wedge) to bush. Go R to V corner which is climbed; free then aid. Climb crack on R to stance. Peg anchor
10) 21 m (13 A2) The corner above: 9 m aid, 9 m free, rest is aid to ledge. Move R. Peg belay
11) 12 m (15) V corner above to stance on L. Fixed peg belay
12) 24 m (15 A2) Climb the corner above and move R at 6 m. Go up R corner to roof (fixed pin). Traverse R and aid the thin overhanging crack (fixed pin and bolt). The angle eases to a good ledge
13) 15m Up, easily, to Foresight summit.
Roland Pauligk, Rob Taylor, varied leads, 29/31-1-1968</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="11/16" length="370m"
name="East Face of the Foresight (Original Route)" number=""
stars="">The first route on this impressive face, this climb was a breakthrough when it was done despite the fact that it is mainly confined to an enormous gully. None the less, it passes through impressive country. In the third small 'bay' down and round R of the previous climbs an obvious easy scrubby line slants up L behind a huge flake. From the R end of the scrubby ledge atop this, some 25 m up, go up short scrubby walls and move up and across R, mainly on easy vegetation to the foot of an enormous gully leading up L to the North Peak-Foresight col. (From here Jones and Lyons apparently more of less followed the last two pitches of the normal Foresight route.) (In March 1983 Glenn Tempest, solo, did a significant variant, grade 16, up the buttress immediately L of the huge gully.)
Bob Jones, Bernie Lyons, leads unknown early 1960s
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" length="450m" name="The Shield" number=""
stars="**">Start as for East Face of the Foresight route.
1-4) 150m Follow this route over easy, scrubby ledges to bottom of huge gully system.
5-8) 130m R to steeper ground, then up over scrubby ledges and steepening walls, tending R towards base of headwall. Up L to gain base of deep chimney-corner below headwall proper (pitch 9 of Pericles).
9) 20m (17) Avoid chimney-corner by climbing L arete, then R to large, bushy ledge.
10) 25m (22) Move belay 10m R to below vertical corner. Up this, then swing R to large, bushy ledge.
11) 40m (24) L crack-corner to ledge (crux) (not corner with fixed wire in it!). Up crack above to block in alcove.
12) 20m (18) Corner to ledge below prominent triple-pointed roof.
13) 35m (22) L to wide crack, up this to ledge. Overhanging crack through bulge to deep V-niche below summit roof.
14) 30m (23) Up to chockstone below steepening. Traverse boldly and with difficulty R to arete above triple-pointed roof. Up R to crack, follow this R.
Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson 20-2-94</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16 A1" length="450m" name="Pericles" number=""
stars="**">The last six pitches are excellent climbing through dramatic territory but parties tend to get lost on the way up to them. The first ascent was a great achievement for the day. Start at a shallow chimney (P on L wall) 65 m L of Heim and a similar distance R of the previous route
1) 42 m (10) Climb the chimney crack for 30 m then continue more easily
2) 36 m (4) Leave the gully and head up R
3) 36 m (4) Go straight up to a steepening
4) 36 m (7) Go L then up to a small horizontal ledge. Traverse 6 m R
5) 39 m (11) Climb the first line to the R for 36 m. Move L and climb a short steep wall to a small stance. Peg belay
6) 39 m (13) Climb the scrubby crack to the R then on to the nose (peg runner). Go to the end of the ramp and up a crack for 5 m. Traverse 3 m L. Piton belay
7) 42 m (8) Go up to below a small chimney on L
8) 15 m (9) Move L then up into the foot of the chimney
9) 21 m (16 A1) Climb the corner, L of the chimney to the overhang. Move back to the chimney which is climbed to the chockstones. Go R on to the face. Climb the corner (sling for aid), piton runner, to a ledge. Peg anchor
10) 33 m (12) The chimney to a large ledge
11) 30 m (12) Up the line to the nose of the buttress
12) 30 m (14) The same line to a small chimney
13) 36 m (8) Traverse 9 m R to a large chimney; climb it to a small stance
14) 15 m (14) Climb the overhang where the chimney narrows to a crack.
Alan and Geoff Gledhill, varied leads 28-1-1969. On the second ascent in 1974 Keith Wadsworth and Rein Kamar, alternate leads, eliminated single aids from pitches 6, 9 and 12</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="450m"
name="East Face of North Peak (Original Route)"
stars="">A party from the Sydney Rockclimbing Club is said to have climbed such a route in January 1963, but little information can be found. It seems likely that they started up what subsequently became Pericles and climbed broken ground not far right of Pericles to veer R below the steep headwall, probably even round the R arete of the face, to finish up easy ground (but not as far N as the Ducane Plateau as has been suggested in one source.) In any event, such a route has been climbed by at least one Party unable to follow Pericles. (The author has a photo, the origin of which he is uncertain, with this line marked as starting mid-way between Pericles and Heim, but an examination of the cliff here failed to reveal any likely prospect for the start of such a route)
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17 A1" length="432m" name="Prometheus" number=""
stars="*">A huge line with some shattered rock, sustained climbing and a discouraging atmosphere. Unrepeated. On the E face of the Ducane Plateau 100 metres or so N of Heim is a large fallen column. 20 m R of this is a crack with Prometheus etched prominently beside it!
1) 39 m (15 A1) Climb the scrubby crack to where the crack steepens. Aid the R crack then free up behind pinnacle to a large ledge
2) 45 m (11) Diagonally L to foot of line. Belay above scree gully
3) 36 m (11) The chossy buttress on L
4) 36 m (13) Go further L then up the broken area for 20 m, traversing R to detached flakes.
5) 21 m (15) Traverse diagonally R to main gully. Go up to piton belay
6) 36 m (15) Go down 3 m. Traverse R across gully to feasible crack which leads to a big ledge
7) 42 m (15 A1) Climb the chimney above to a ledge at 21 m. Traverse L to a steep, wet crack (peg for aid) which leads to a ledge above an overhanging wall
8) 39 m (13) Up the chimney crack to loose blocks below the overhang
9) 18m(15 A1) Climb the widening chimney to a rest at 6 m. Aid the corner above and step L
10) 30 m (16) Climb the corner behind to a ledge. Go over loose blocks to next corner which is climbed to foot of chimney
11) 45 m (15) Climb the narrowing chimney then up easily
12) 45 m (10) Gully
John Moore Roland Pauligk, alternate leads 28-2-1967 to 1-3-1967
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">The Acropolis North Face
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="220m" name="Venus" number=""
stars="*">Some good crack climbing and devious navigation. Start 20 m up L of the L buttress of the main face
1) 30 m Up easily on R then behind block to good ledge on R
2) 20 m Step R and climb cracks over loose blocks to exit L to ledge
3) 25 m (crux) Step L to wide crack. Up this and the rib above. Step R to slabby corner and up it to block on L
4) 30 m Up wide crack above then move R across loose blocks and up flake to behind pinnacle. Move up to belay
5) 30 m Climb cracks on L to ledge. Step L, up bushes, then R to chimney. Climb this over first chockstone then go through hole to good ledge
6) 25 m Crack above, taking R fork at top
7) 25 m Traverse L a little, up step, then round L to foot of chimney in corner
8) 20 m Up chimney and blocks above to ledge on R
9) 35 m Up corners, cracks and ledges to top.
Chris Baxter, Dave Moss alternate leads 3-3-1983
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="230m"
name="North Face (Original Route)" number=""
stars="">Start at the foot of the lowest buttress on the face (down R of Venus, on the next buttress - really the middle one). (In 1975 Chris Rathbone and Glen Kowalik, varied leads, did what they thought was a new route which they called Before the Goldrush, but it was almost certainly a repeat of the Original Route, except that they may have finished further L.) Broken climbing for 60 m up the crest of the buttress leads to a large green gully running diagonally down L. Cross this and continue up, moving slightly L for 75 m to a prominent chimney. (A traverse off L is possible here.) Climb the chimney and go up to a short wall. The final pitch (36 m) is the crux; go L round the corner and climb a crack to a large ledge. Traverse R above the belay and go up the steep line. Finish up chimney between face and pinnacle.
John Worrall, Reg Williams, alternate leads 19-1-1966
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="270m" name="The Wizard of Wad"
number=""
stars="">Start up R of the previous route on the R side of the buttress, a few metres L of Fury
1) 30 m Easily diagonally up L to buttress crest
2) 25 m The crack directly above. Step L over block and go up arete on L. Now easily to large block
3) 45m Up the buttress crest to the large green ramp
4) 40 m The wide crack above then the chimney to a ledge on L
5) 40 m Climb blocks on R and move across L to chimney. Go up this to ledge. L to a wide crack which is climbed, moving L, to a good ledge
6) 15 m Climb the crack above to a grass ledge. Move L to below chimney
7) 40 m Climb the chimney and blocks above moving L to a ledge below a hand-crack
8) 25 m Climb the hand crack and the cracks above on the R to go up behind a huge pinnacle
9) 10 m The middle crack.
Chris Baxter, Dave Moss, alternate leads, and Miles Martin 6-3-1983</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" length="36m" name="Astroboy" number=""
stars="**">This remarkable and sustained crack climbing gem is approached by abseil from the top of the cliff. The best single crack pitch in Australia? Take size 2.5 Friends. The first L-lacing corner L of the top of Fury; starting from a block ledge.
Glenn Tempest, Russell Clune 7-3-1983
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="220m" name="Wailing for Jonah"
number=""
stars="">Start at the cairn 5m left of Fury.
1-2) 90m Climb straight up the corner system and a grassy ledge.
3) 40m Climb the second corner system left of Fury to a bushy ledge, then ascend the off-width corner (with jammed block.)
4) 35m Climb the obvious crack on the right to a prominent ledge.
5) 15m Finish up the corner on the left.
J.Keane, D.Baker, Feb 91</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18 A1" length="210m" name="Fury" number=""
stars="**">The last three pitches give sustained climb in the superb R-lacing corner dominating the upper wall. Start about 20 m up R of the toe of the middle buttress (the lowest) below a line leading to a small pale yellow and black roof at about 8 m
1) 40 m Up and chimney past roof on L. Up to third ledge
2) 45 m Corner. At 7 m traverse L above the roof to a crack which is climbed (easing) to the large grass ramp. Go up R to below corner
3) 40 m Climb the main corner to a small horizontal break
4) 45 m (crux) The line to a ledge. Up, one aid 2 m below roof, to semi hanging belay
5) 20 m Corner.
Peter Treby, Terry Brookers, varied leads 31-1-1974</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="25" length="210m" name="Black Man" number=""
stars="***">A superb and serious route with the last moves being the crux. The climb starts up the L side of the inspiring 80 m wall (Mellow Buttress), just R of the R-lacing corner marking its L edge.
1) 45 m (18) Climb thin cracks and the face just R of the corner until these join the corner. Belay on large block in corner below overhang
2) 30 m (20) Traverse 5 m R and climb groove R of roof. Pass small roof and continue up corner to ledge
3) 45 m (22) Step R on top of blocks and climb crack to face. Climb it and step R to top of large flake. A short face leads up and L to a crack. Climb this past a small overhang to a ledge. Continue up hand-crack, stepping R and up to a large ledge
4) 40 m (17) Obvious crack and chimney to bushy ledge
5) 30 m (19) Climb L-facing corner for 9 m then step R to ledge. Climb face above to another ledge
6) 20 m (25) Up and R to obvious L-facing corner. Up past fixed peg runner near top.
Glenn Tempest, Russ Clune alternate leads 6-3-1983 (Originally done with one aid at the top; both led that pitch free next day)</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="240m" name="Old Wave Heroes"
number=""
stars="***">They don't come much better than this sustained mega classic.
1) 50 m (18) As for Miles From Nowhere
2) 40 m (21) Step L and climb the crack. Avoid the block at the top by climbing the L wall to a ledge
3) 40 m (20) The crack above curves R to a broken chimney. Up this to a superb ledge on the L
4) 40 m (19) Climb the chimney until an obvious hand-traverse leads out R to a crack. Up this to a large ledge
5) 50 m (19) Instead of the off-width in the corner, climb the hand-crack just R of it. Move L to the corner which is climbed to below the wide chimney of The Gates of Eden. Up this and the easy corner above to a ledge on the L. (TGOE goes up the body chimney above.) Go L to the arete and climb the thin crack and wall to a ledge
6) 20 m (18) As for TGOE
Glenn Tempest, Chris Baxter 1- 3-1983</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="200m" name="Miles From Nowhere"
number=""
stars="*">Another good route but marred by wide cracks. Start a few metres down R of Black Man's Country at a small black V groove (marked with an arrow) in the middle of Mellow Buttress. (L of low obvious grey roofs.)
1) 50 m (18) A fantastic pitch! Up the grooves and cracks to the top of a block. Climb the thin face crack above and step up R to belay
2) 50 m (18) Go up R to the wide corner crack. Above, a shallow corner leads to a series of stacked blocks. Belay on top
3) 35 m (17) Take the hand crack just R of the main line to a good ledge. Go R behind block
4) 25 m (19) Up the wide line behind to a small stance
5) 40 m (21) The main line is avoided by a small traverse R to another off-width. Up this and the hand crack above.
Glenn Tempest, Russell Clune, alternate leads 3-3-1983</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18 A1" length="205m" name="The Gates of Eden"
number=""
stars="*">Times change; whilst only the upper part has been repeated this climb is probably not as good or as hard as was thought. Start immediately R of Mellow Buttress, up R of MFN
1) 30 m (6) Climb the slabby wall to the foot of the main face. Take the corner above to a large block
2) 24 m (8) Up the smaller corner, higher to the L. Back R to below a dank chimney
3) 15 m (8) Climb the chimney and go R to large ledge
4) 15 m (13) Up the short steep crack to R, then the wide crack above to top of block
5) 36 m (11) Go diagonally L across a slanting, scrubby ledge. Continue up to a large ledge below a small corner
6) 27 m (9) Climb the small crack above. Belay on the big ledge below a large jammed block
7) 30 m (17 A1) Up for 6 m, traverse L (leader used tension, second didn't) and step down to foot of a bulging crack. Climb this and the chimney above to a good ledge
8) 21 m (15) Climb the chimney for 9 m to a ledge. Continue up the unpleasant body crack. Move up L to belay
9) 20 m (18) The magnificent corner containing two antique wedges.
Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, varied leads 17-2-1967. Glenn Tempest and Russell Clune eliminated the two aids from the final pitch on 7-3-1983</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="200m"
name="In the Days When the World Was Wide" number=""
stars="">A six-pitch route starting up the wall 7 m R of TGOE and following a direct line. The last pitch is the crux.
Chris Rathbone, Phil Robinson, alternate leads 24-2-1983
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">The Acropolis West Face
</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="16" length="155m" name="The Plenipotentiary" number=""
stars="**">Excellent direct climbing to the summit of the huge detached pinnacle (landmark). Scramble up a gully below the pinnacle.
1) 36 m (8) Up buttress to large slanting ledge
2) 30 m (13) Up slabs to foot of corner
3) 21 m (15) Traverse L past a thin crack. Continue diagonal traverse and layback up narrow slabs. Swing round into a vertical V crack which is climbed to a large ledge
4) 12 m (8) Traverse diagonally L. Climb a sharp corner to a small ledge
5) 38 m (16) Traverse R to the V crack and climb it
6) 18 m (5) Chimney to the pinnacle-top (Abseil into the notch and find a way, roped scrambling, to the top of the cliffs.)
John Moore, Reg Williams, Chris Dewhirst, varied leads, 19-2-1967</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="165m" name="Juggles" number="" stars="*">A good climb with clean rock and starting up the corner just R of The Plenipotentiary. Start 10m R of corner
1) 30 m (10) Series of steps, keeping R of vegetation
2) 12 m (11) Climb 6 m up crack in corner on L. Traverse over block to main corner
3) 24 m (15) The corner
4) 30 m (13) Up underneath overhang and go R round it. Climb crack then gully to 8 m below The Plenipotentiary notch
5) 6 m (13) L corner to notch (Route now follows ridge behind The Plenipotentiary)
6) 12 m (11) Traverse R and up short corners to ledge. Go 6 m R to base of off-width
7) 15m (15) Climb off-width for 9m to ledge below overhang. Traverse L to nose, level with top of pinnacle
8) 30 m (12)Chimney and crack
9) 7 m (11) Go R to short crack with loose blocks. Climb this to big ledge which leads L to exit gully.
Col Hocking, Phil Robinson ,varied leads 31-1-1977</climb>
</guide>
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