<guide>
<header id="1" name="Gordon Gorge" walk="" sun="" rock="" acknowledgement="By Hamish Jackson" intro="<br/>Spectacular cliffs line both sides of the upper Gordon gorge, where the Gordan River cuts between the Denison Range and The Thumbs, running it’s course from Lake Rhona to Lake Gordon. The section of cliff dropping into the gorge from the ‘Packers spur’ at the northern end of the Thumbs consists of unusually good quality rock for climbing The rock type is known as Siliclastic sandstone conglomerate (Owen group and Gordon group), and is in many sections virtually identical to the rock at Arapiles. The rock is very different to the rock at the nearby Adamsfield boulders, with most of the cliff having very few if any pebbles. <br/><br/>The area lies with the TWWHA, and the associated ethics apply. Happily, the climbing here is unique for Tasmania as the rock accepts a lot of good gear even on relatively improbable sections of face, and is typically over-hanging with climbing easily than expected. This means solid trad routes have been approachable ground up, on sight with no cleaning, even through fairly blank looking face climbing sections. The fact the climbs are steep does mean a confident leader approach is required as it gets pretty pumpy placing unnecessary, closely spaced gear (potential falls are typically very clean and safe). Another unique aspect for Tassie climbing is size of the cliffs situated above the river, making for remarkably atmospheric gorge climbing and lovely camping with swims etc during the summer months. " history="Background<br/>These cliffs have been noticed by many kayakers and bushwalkers over the years, but were first noticed by the Jackson family after they appeared in a ‘Tasmania from the Air’ Calendar in the 1980s. A trip to the summit of Clear Hill and then to the nearby Cliffs of Insanity* confirmed the significant climbing potential. Paddlers Peter Rand and Simon Jarman had separately encouraged Hamish to explore the area and shared some inspiring yet also intimidating photos of the cliffs from the river. Scaling the cliffs on natural gear looked somewhat improbable from the initial photos. <br/><br/>Bushwalking notes made pre-2019 report that the Gorge was always reasonably easily accessed via the Clear Hills plains, and this route became even easier after the 2019 Gell River fires. The first routes were established in early 2024 by Hamish Jackson and Jamie Spencer.<br/><br/>*nb the rock at the Cliffs of Insanity is more conglomerite-quartzite in feel, but similarly steep!" access="Access<br/>The top of Wild West Buttress is reachable in about five hours from Hobart – 2.5 hours drive and 2.5 hours walk. The walking is flat and relatively easy so single night, weekend trips are quite productive if you camp on top of cliff and get water from the last creek crossing. The camping is lovely, and cliffs extensive, so multi-night trips are also somewhat recommended especially when swimming in the Gorge is pleasant during summer and camping on the river is pleasant. <br/><br/>Road access<br/>Access is via Strathgordon 'SW' road, then right onto Clear Hill Road, then right again onto the Morley track, which branches off the clear Hill Road a few km past Adamsfield cliff parking. <br/><br/>The Morley track is gated about 20-50m alone the track, a key can be obtained the Mt Field Parks office. The key must be booked online and a phone call if it is last minute, but this is process free and reasonably easy to pick up on the way through as the office it is only a 5 mins deviation and has an after hours box access option. <br/><br/>On most trips we have not got the key and have just riden a bike for the 2km from the gate the start of the walk. <br/><br/>From the gate, follow the 2WD access road past the 2 huts to the river crossing. With a bike or AWD/4WD is easy to ford the river (nb log crossing 30m downstream from ford) and continue east past the next hut/picnic shelter on left and along to start of the walk (see GPS and map points). The start of the walk is about 1km past the river, or 2 km total from the gate, so could easily be walked if you don't have a bike or a key. <br/> <br/><br/>Walking route. <br/>There are walkers pads along clear hill plains (see Abels books), and also historic reminants of the old mining horse packers track that went from from Admasfield to Maydena, that surpirsingly went around the northern spur of the Thumbs. However these tracks are marginal and intermittent, so it is best to think of the cliff access as as pure off track walking expereince and so make sure you have necessary route finding skills and reduce impacts by finding your own easy route. It is hard to get lost as the plains are bounded by a range on each side, but it is easy to get into slow terrain if you don't look at the maps properly. <br/><br/>The best routes DO NOT go straight along the middle of plains (too clumpy), but travel on the far eastern side of the plains, on the flanks of the thumbs where the vegetation is sparse and the walking is relatively easy, although you should expect to encounter rough creek crossings. <br/><br/>Some Key GPS points are included below and a rough route shown on the map - these help avoid the main scrub patches. If you are in scrub you are not going an optimal route!" camping="Camp can either be made at the top of Gorge rim about 200m west of 'Wild West Buttress', with water found from the creek 5 min back along the plains, or on the flat rocks in the Gordon river at the base of Wild West descent gully. The best descent route to the river and WW cliff base starts at the middle of the saddle, then goes diagonally down right for 50m, reaching the right/eastern eadge of the gully. Then continue down this side on a convenient wombat track, passing underneath Tyger Country, to almost reaching Gunslinger, then descend the final difficult stretch to the river. Once at the river, rock hop down 50m to a nice flat rock island camp spot. <br/><br/>Please observe minimal impact camping etiquette. " autonumber="true"/>
<text id="5" class="heading3">Morley Track, Parking, and rough walking route (no track)</text>
<image id="28" src="morley track and huts and parking2.jpg" height="458" width="600"/>
<text id="27" class="heading3">Key GPS points:</text>
<text id="8" class="text">Parking spot/start of walk<br/>42 43 09.18S 146 19 29.17E<br/><br/>First scrub band avoided: <br/>42 42 57.08"S 146 19 29.69E<br/><br/>Convenient swimming pool on Abel creek<br/>42 41 11.87S 146 19 46.68E<br/><br/>Travel above last tree band:<br/>42 40 03.34S 146 19 38.87E<br/><br/>Top camp <br/>42 39 39.28S 146 19 12.85E</text>
<text id="15" class="heading3">Buttress access topo and top camp</text>
<image id="10" src="Top camp with wild west buttress behind.png" height="560" width="800">
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<text id="12" class="heading3">The Golden Arch Buttress</text>
<text id="13" class="text">I'm Lovin it</text>
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<climb id="16" stars="***" extra="" number="1." name="Jungle Boy" length="75m" grade="23" fa="H Jackson and jem Clemens Jan 2025">One of the most aesthetic lines in Tasmania, this climb ascends the overhanging double arete that towers over the river. Looks harder than it is (like everything at the GG). Named in memory of Peter Jackson (aka Jungle Boy in the Arapiles golden days) who died shortly prior to the ascent, and would have enthused on the signficance of this climb in his own unique and artistic way. <br/><br/>Access: FA team accessed the climb from above with a 70m abseil, which is easiest if you are camping on top as the walk in access tis fairly quick and easy. The lowest tier, straight above the river (50m) has therefore not been climbed; the rock hop up the river to the base would take a bit of effort depending on river levels.<br/><br/>1. 20m 18. Start on the large bushy ledge atop the lowest tier. Climb the crack just right of arete, then on arete, to top of arete and large large.<br/>2. 18m 18. Climb corner crack 4m right of arete to 12m, then traverse on horizontal crack to arete proper, and climb this for 5m (do not go on to upper ledge as this creates a high factor run out on pitch 3).<br/>3. 35m 23. A stella pitch, slightly runnout, but good gear and clean falls (flashed on FA). Up double arete and face between, initially on left, then on right and up to roof. Pass roof on R, then step left onto lip and up crack that splits the final arete. Mind blowing position and climbing throughout. <br/>Gear: single rack cams 0.1-3, but triples of 0.2 to 0.4 (some offsets handy), plus wires.</climb>
<text id="17" class="heading3">Gunslinger Buttress</text>
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<climb id="20" stars="***" extra="" number="2." name="Gunslinger" length="125m" grade="20" fa="Jamie Spencer (1,2,4) and H Jackson (3) May 2025">Another remarkable climb, with every pitch a winner. <br/><br/>1. 10m 5. Scramble/solo up to ledge with small tree, at base of steep R facing corner. <br/>2. 35m 20. Climb steep R facing corner to ledge. Continue up beautiful well protected R diagonal finger crack which gradually gets harder and steeper. Up wall above to belay on small ledge just below overhang and corner. <br/>3. 50m 17. A long and complex pitch which could be broken into 2. Up corner and overhang, then left and up towards an overhanging overlap, which is passed on RHS weakness, then up to ledge at 20m. Up next wildly overhanging corner/face feature above to reach ledge at base of upper tier. <br/>4. 30m 18. Step left from the belay on to pedestal to gain the main crack line that splits the imposing steep wall. Continue up this to the top. A very impressive pitch for the grade.</climb>
<climb id="21" stars="***" extra="" number="3." name="Steep bananas??" length="50m" grade="22" fa="Jem Clemens and H. Jackson Jan 2025">Probably the steepest line for the grade in Tasmania.<br/><br/>Access: abseil fixed line from top of buttress to ledge 15m down, then re-fix here to continue down steep wall either placing some gear en route to keep you in to land of the ledge (as on FA), or lower down 20m east/climbers left which may allow less steep access to the left end of the ledge. climbing back to ledge via tree. <br/><br/>Start on large ledge about 8m left of arete. <br/><br/>1. 30m 22. Outstanding rock. Reach up past cave to short left facing corner that goes for 1m, campus left 1m on jugs, then up well protected slightly R trending weakness that is crazy steep via many jugs. Pumpy to place gear.<br/><br/>2. 15m 18. Up to top via easy steep crack mid wall above. <br/><br/>Gear: wires from 4 RP, double cams from 0.2 to 1, single 2 and 3.</climb>
<text id="9" class="heading3">Wild West Buttress</text>
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<climb id="22" stars="***" extra="" number="4." name="Tyger Country" length="125m" grade="22/23" fa="H Jackson and J Spencer Feb 2024">Climbs the outragous overhanging arete the whole way without a run out. One of the very best multipitch trad climbs in Tasmania. Every pitch is ***, pitch 3 is unsurpassed. <br/><br/>Start at faint crack and groove 2m left of main arete (this start is 10m left and down hill from obvious crack (Endling) that is 2m right of the main arete). <br/><br/>1. 50m 20. Climb faint crack and steepening groove/face (crux) to 30m, then right to arete and up this on easier ground via various short cracks and small ledges to reach large comfortable ledge at 50m.<br/><br/>2. 25m 21. Climb steep corner with thin crack until roof at 15 m, exciting hand traverse right to arete, then step back left above roof and up steep flakes to major ledge. <br/><br/>3a. 20m 21. The original - well protected but outrageous. Start 2m right of very hanging arete and ascend improbable looking left leading crescent shaped weakness to arete and roof lip (knee bar). Up arete briefly on left hand side holds then step back right onto ‘lip of roof’ and up to steep crack line to semihaging belay. <br/><br/>4. 30m 22. Up steep crack above through small roof, then widening crack above to diving board ledge. More easily to top via right diagonal that leads through the ‘hole’ feature 5m right of arete at top.<br/><br/>Alternative: 3b. 30m 23. "Airy interlude" by A Donoghue and K Wright Jan 2025 is also reportedly outstanding climbing with tricky but adequate gear around 5-10m. Climb steep vague corner 2m right of original, which this leads to the strong line up left through wild overlap. 10m further up weakness above then step left into wide section of the main crack line on pitch 4. <br/></climb>
<climb id="23" stars="***" extra="" number="5." name="The Endling" length="125m" grade="21" fa="H Jackson, J Spencer and Toby Watkins May 2025">Named after the last captured tyger in Tasmania, trapped by a resident of Adamsfield. <br/><br/>Takes the crack just right of the arete to the midway ledge, then cuts an unlikely rightward diagonal line to the top right of the face. Double ropes essential for pitch 2. <br/><br/>1.50m 19. Climb 8 m up slightly loose and sparsely protected wall (easy) to reach the main crack line. Up diverse crack for 35m to ledge, then up next crack above to major ledge. <br/><br/>2.25m 20. Double ropes essential, occasionally spaced gear (safe). Up Tyger country pitch 2 for 8m (ie half way up to roof only), then traverse right to pedestal on arete. Block up any rope catching cracks here. Traverse gingerly 3m right along horizontal until face holds and a small wire in otherwise blank face allows for a balancy sequence up (crux) to next horizontal crack line. Head right and up diangonal cracks more easily, then back up and left through another blank-ish face (second crux) to major horizontal. Belay just left of the narrowest point of ledge. <br/><br/>3. 50m 21. A great pitch. Balancy move up onto obtuse arete, then face climb up and right in an unlikely rising traverse on increasing steep terrain, crossing the crack line of Tyger Tayl 2m above the lip of the roof on that climb, up another 3m to good ledge. 5m right to cracks, up this for 10m to base of left leading diagonal crack, but ignore this and continue up right through steep stuff to top right arete of face then easy scramble to top of buttress. Belay from gear 10m back up hillside. <br/></climb>
<climb id="24" stars="***" extra="" number="6." name="Tyger Tayl" length="110m" grade="23" fa="H Jackson and N Watkins March 2025">Another contender for the best multi pitch trad route in Tasmania; tackles the fine diagonal crack that cut across the WW face. Very well protected and rather steep. <br/><br/>Start: 4m left of chimney (‘Corinna’).<br/><br/>1.40m 19. Up easy walls and intermittent cracks to 20m, then trend right up through amazing overhanging, pocketed rock to base of diagonal crack. Crank up to this (crux), then up crack 5m to belay ledge. <br/><br/>2. 20m 16. Continue up diagonal crack.<br/><br/>3. 25m 23. Up steepening diagonal crack (crux), through overlap, then various minor variations exist; either continue straight up crack (hardest), or step right to belay either 4m or 6m past overlap (all good options, all same grade overall). <br/><br/>4. 25m 18. Steep left then continue up diagnonal weakness to top exit at same point as TC.<br/></climb>
<climb id="25" stars="**" extra="" number="7." name="Corinna" length="100m" grade="18" fa="N and M Watkins May 2025">The major corner crack line on the right of the face. Reportedly climbs really well.</climb>
<climb id="26" stars="**" extra="" number="8." name="Toby's route" length="20m" grade="19" fa="T Watkins and N and M Watkins May 2025">Climbs the main weakness in nice orange buttress above to the walk off from WW.</climb>
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