<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide guidestars="***"><text class="heading1" new="false"
number="null.">The Star Factory</text><text class="text"
new="false" number="null.">Guide by Jake Bresnehan.</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The cliff now known as the Star Factory was first climbed on by the Jackson Brothers in 1994, when they wandered up a modest corner towards the left end of the wall. They returned in early 2002 to finish off their previous climb to create The Adjuster (21), and added another, Glass Tier (22). These were the only routes on the cliff until Nick Hancock re-discovered it in early 2003. He tried to keep it a secret and even managed to pick off a few of the best lines with Doug McConnell until the motor-mouth Jake Bresnehan got hold of the rumour and passed it on to Garry Phillips, who then marched up there with more bolts and glue than Dani Andrada. Garry has put up about half the routes to date and is responsible for most of the hardest routes. The Star Factory is now the best (hard) sport crag in Tassie and one of the best in the OZ! The rock is Gold, around 30 metres in height and offers some of the best routes around. Enjoy!</text><text
class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Access</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">From Coles Bay drive to the Sleepy Bay car park which is on Cape Tourville Rd. Head down the walking track to Sleepy Bay beach. Continue along the track, trying to pick up some rock cairns and follow some yellow arrows. Ascend the track for some time until you can see the wall. Continue for another 50 metres untill you reach a distinct notch. From the notch head down the gully via a rough track. When you get to the top of the cliff head down and left (looking out to sea) and scramble down past some fixed ropes. Then head to the Antimatter area for a good coffee and a nice warm up. Hopefully the wind has picked up slightly and your draws are already on your project. If not, then send your partner up to do just this. Now, you climb 'til the moon comes up and you get the full Star Factory experience.</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="Star Factory.jpg"
width="">null</image><image new="false" number="null."
src="Walk In.jpg" width="">null</image><text class="heading3"
new="false" number="null.">Other Stuff</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">Winter days are the best, climbing in the sun with a nice southerly wind. You can climb in the summer but is best after about 2pm.
The projects are all closed, but feel free to put in the blood sweet and tears to put your own up. Be careful on the slabs at the base of the routes. If you stuff up you probably won't wake up again. In the wet they are even worse!
</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">The Routes</text><image new="false"
number="null." src="Chris the PK.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="20"
name="Access Route" new="false" number="1. "
stars="">Climbs to the ledge where Chris the Porn King starts. FA Al Williams 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="Chris the Porn King"
new="false" number="2. "
stars="">Climb the Access route till the ledge. Double bolt belay. Climb the top pitch up via some cool moves on not the best quality rock. Not a bad little route. Harder if you are short. FA Garry Philips 2003</climb><climb
extra="(Natural Gear)" grade="23" length="15m"
name="Naturally Blond" new="false" number="3. "
stars="">Follow the crack left of Chris The Porn King to the roof. Head right to pass the roof and follow the thin layback to the Double bolt belay. FA Al Williams 2004</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="The Reason.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="26" length="20m"
name="The Reason" new="false" number="4. "
stars="***">Climb a grade 15 crack for 8 meters to gain the big ledge. A wicked stricking corner. Classic. Maybe the best 26 at the factory. FA Doug McConnell 2003</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="AntiMatter.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="25" length="25m"
name="Pot Bellied Whale" new="false" number="5."
stars="">Layback the pillar. Up the arête. Not that good. FA Nick Hancock 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="28" length="20m" name="Street Fighter"
new="false" number="6. "
stars="**">Grovely up the chimney until you can get out onto the left face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic. FA Garry Phillips 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="28/29" length="20m" name="Soft Option"
new="false" number="7. "
stars="*">Same start as Street fighter. Head right at the top of the chimney. FA Garry Phillips 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Street Fighter 3" new="false"
number="8. "
stars="">Project. Direct Start into Street fighter.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="29" length="20m" name="Street Fighter 2"
new="false" number="9. "
stars="">Climb the first 3 bolts of Antimatter then break right and up to join street fighter. A bit sharp. Just adds a little bit. Probably grade 26 to join Street Fighter. FA Jake Bresnehan 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Antimatter" new="false"
number="10. "
stars="***">A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. The suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. FA. Doug McConnell. 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25/6" name="Matter of Fact" new="false"
number="10.a."
stars="*">When you get bored of Antimatter. At the roof of antimatter head left past 1 bolt via some MOVES. FA Garry Phillips 2007</climb><climb
extra="" grade="28" length="28m" name="Power Of The Percolator"
new="false" number="11. "
stars="***">This could be the best 28 in Tassie. A must do!!! FA Garry Phillips 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" name="Decafe" new="false" number="12. "
stars="**">Climb Power Of The Percolator till you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb right and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit. FA Garry Phillips 2006</climb><climb
extra="" grade="30" name="Grand Slam" new="false" number="13. "
stars="">Start as for Power of the Percolator but head left. Lowers of the 2nd last bolt. Need to be extended. FA Garry Phillips 2003</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="Balance of evil.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="?"
name="Kim's Project" new="false" number="14. "
stars="">Up the slab. Looks classic. All kim has to do is get out of his office and climb it. Hopefully the bolts are ok!!!</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="20m" name="Promised Land"
new="false" number="15. "
stars="">Climb Balance of Evil and break right across to join Kim's project. A bit cheeky but a good route. FA Garry Phillips 2006</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="25m" name="Balance of Evil"
new="false" number="16. "
stars="">A bit tricky down low. Up the right facing corner to the top. FA Norm Selby 2003</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="Wizard.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="27" length="25m"
name="The Grand Adjudicator" new="false" number="17. "
stars="">10 meters right of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack past 6 ugly pitons. Finishing up a nice looking hanging corner. Take wires and friends up to #3. Not sure why he just didn't bolt it. FA Nick Hancock 2004</climb><climb
extra="(Natural Gear)" grade="22" name="The Glass Tier"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Follow a series of left trending flakes just past a ridiculously thin crack-line. Most of the rock on this climb looks dubious from the ground, but in fact it is pristine quality except for the first move. The upper section is reasonably sustained. Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Jan 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Garry's Amazing Project" new="false"
number="18. " stars="">Name Says it all...</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Wizard Of The World Project"
new="false" number="19. " stars="">Closed!</climb><climb
extra="" grade="32" length="27m" name="Wizard Of Oz" new="false"
number="20. "
stars="***">Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out left. Traverse right on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route. FA Jake Bresnehan 2006</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" length="25m" name="Ferret On A Leash"
new="false" number="21. "
stars="***">Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean. FA Nick Hancock 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Garry's amazing project" new="false"
number="22. " stars="">Name Says it all...</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="The Tooth Fairy.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="32" length="25m"
name="The Tooth Fairy" new="false" number="23. "
stars="">Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A bit sharp but a good one. FA Kim Robinson 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="31" length="25m" name="Fairy Floss" new="false"
number="24. "
stars="">Climb the Tooth Fairy till the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out left past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Also has some big biting crystals. FA Garry Phillips 2006</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Business Man Project" new="false"
number="25. " stars="">One sick project, closed.</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="Come Get Me.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="29" length="25m"
name="Entree" new="false" number="26. "
stars="***">Head up easy ground to half height. Head right and up past a rad punch to the biggest under cling in Tassie. Squirm up the groove to reach the belay. Super classic. FA Garry Phillips 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="30" length="25m" name="Come Get Me" new="false"
number="27. "
stars="">Same start as Entrée but go direct. Past a nice boulder (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out left to reach the chains. Come Get ME! FA Garry Phillips 2005</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" name="The Supposed Golden Path" new="false"
number="28. "
stars="">The far right of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête. With a steep finish. FA Nick Hancock 2003</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="Star wars.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="27" length="25m"
name="Star Wars" new="false" number="29. "
stars="***">This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic downwards left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone left on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer. FA Doug McConnell</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="Astro Boy.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="?"
name="Doug's Project" new="false" number="30. " stars=""/><climb
extra="" grade="30" name="Astro Boy" new="false" number="31. "
stars="***">Water polished granite. Climb Me. This gem of a climb is a must for people who like climbing good routes. A hard boulder to get to the 4th draw will keep the masses away, and the mantel at the top will keep the boulderers crying. Good conditions help.
FA Al Williams, June 2005.</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="Redline.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="28"
name="Simply The Best" new="false" number="32. "
stars="***">The name says it all! Just enjoy - if you can get in the groove of the style. A little cruxy at one point, but once the flared hand jam is reached the fun heats up. FA Garry Phillips.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Madness Project" new="false"
number="33. " stars=""/><climb extra="" grade="?"
name="Redline Project" new="false" number="34. "
stars=""/><image new="false" number="null."
src="Turbo Hammer.jpg" width="">null</image><climb
extra="(Natural Gear)" grade="21" name="The Adjuster"
new="false" number="35."
stars="**">The well-defined right facing corner system toward the lower end of the tier. Perfect rock. Perfect position.
(1) 18m 13. Climb the corner to the ledge under the roof. Marcel and Hamish Jackson, Aug 94.
(2) 18m 21. Up to the roof then follow an airy traverse right until the roof fades into a faint depression. Tricky moves to the top. Hamish, Toby Bown and Marcel, Jan 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" name="Turbo Hammer" new="false"
number="36. "
stars="***">Named after the one and only. Looks easy but! Climb up the radtastic left leaning flared crack, on some smears and a few more smears. Very good. FA Garry Phillips</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" name="The Final Solution" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Faceted blocky arete to same belay as Seal Launch. FA Al Williams Aug 03.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Seal Launch" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Climb a dogleg groove just right of a distinct arête formation. FA Al Williams July 03</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="25m" name="The Holy Ghost"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">The right hand line of bolts with a reachy crux high up. FA Garry Phillips July 03</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="The Son" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The central line of bolts with a tricky slab finish. FA Doug McConnell July 03</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="25m" name="The Father" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Follow the left hand line of bolts on the highly featured wall at the far left hand end of the cliff. FA Nick Hancock July 03</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The Men's Gallery is a little separate from the main Star Factory crag. To get to the Men's Gallery walk down the ramp at the far left side of the Star Factory to a rap station. From here climb the short wall above via 4 bolts (grade 12) to the belay on the ledge. To descend rap off the rings, but try to avoid letting the ropes fall down the crack below!
</text><climb
extra="" grade="26" name="Red Hill Town" new="false" number=""
stars="***">Power up steep wall (crux) to good rest. Continue easily, with tricky move at half height. 9 U-bolts + lower-offs. Best done with the first two bolts pre-clipped. Simon Young 28/6/06</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" name="Wild Winds" new="false" number="" stars="***">Starts 2m right of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route. Garry Phillips 20/11/05</climb></guide>
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