<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>
<header
access="Park at the Wineglass Bay Track carpark inside the National Park, but take the Mt Amos Track instead. This track passes close by to first the Alps, then Southpark. After about 30 minutes the track passes the right hand side of the North Face. Walk left along the base of the cliff to find the routes."
acknowledgement="" history=""
intro="Mt Amos is the highest of the Hazards, and has a popular walking track to its summit. The routes on the North Face are good value with a most varied bunch of routes generally less than 60m high. Most are well protected for the Hazards and several are outstanding."
name="Mt Amos" new="false"
rock="Pink and grey coarse granite, 10-50m" sun="All day sun"
walk="10-30 min"/><gps new="true"><point code="CBH310"
description="Start of Access to South Park (off Mt Amos Track)"
easting="607073" height="125" northing="5333188"
zone="55G"/><point code="CBH320"
description="South Park (Cartman)" easting="607033"
height="120" northing="5333154" zone="55G"/><point
code="CBH330" description="The Alps (top of Horny Ridge)"
easting="606931" height="116" northing="5333154"
zone="55G"/></gps>
<text class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Mt Amos Lower Slopes</text><text
class="Discussion">The area is really a collection of boulders on the way up to the main Mt Amos cliff. They are, in the order the track passes them: The Alps, South Park and the imaginatively named Mt Amos Boulder .</text><text
class="heading3">The Alps</text><text
class="Discussion">A complex area of boulders with very easy access from the wine glass bay car park. From the car park follow the Mt. Amos track for around five minutes, until a short section of wooden duckboard is reached. To the right can be seen a large traingular shaped boulder, Matterhorn Rock, 100m or so away. To get there continue on the main track until a boulder is passed just on the right of the track. Turn off here and work your way up Matterhorn Rock. There are a large number of boulders in this area that show some potential for development.</text><climb
extra="2B" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
name="Horny Ridge" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Follow the slab and left arete of the south face via 2 u-bolts. The further right you go the easier it is. A single bolt belay exists at the top (to the extreme right of the face). It's not possible to rap the route to clean it from this bolt if you want to pull your rope. Nick Hancock, Carol Hurst, 10-9-01."> Follow the slab and left arête of the south face via 2 u-bolts. The further right you go the easier it is. A single bolt belay exists at the top (to the extreme right of the face). It's not possible to rap the route to clean it from this bolt if you want to pull your rope. Nick Hancock, Carol Hurst, 10-9-01.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="10" length="15m" name="Smutty Ridge" new="false"
number=""
stars=""> The easy right hand arête - no protection. Nick Hancock, 10-9-01.</climb><text
class="heading3">South Park</text><text
class="Discussion">Ten minutes along the Mt. Amos track the path ascends some easy slabs. At this point traverse right to the large boulder. The following climbs are on the west face and are easily identifiable by their bolts. To descend from the routes, or belay a second up, have your belayer tie the rope off to a tree behind the boulder as there is no gear on top. It's not as epic as it sounds, apparently, but putting lower-offs on sports routes is</text><climb
extra="6B" grade="26" length="15m" name="Cartman" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="The left arete. Hard moves to gain the arete from the right and pumpy climbing above (if you don't succumb to the temptation of pulling around the arete to the good rests). 6 bolts. Nick Hancock 10-9-01."> The left arête. Hard moves to gain the arête from the right and pumpy climbing above (if you don't succumb to the temptation of pulling around the arête to the good rests). 6 bolts. Nick Hancock 10-9-01.</climb><climb
grade="26" length="15m" name="Kenny" number=""
stars="*"> The next climb right. Desperate moves right via two bolts lead to a horizontal and a thin groove above. A half-friend and wires are needed. Nick Hancock 10-9-01.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="28" length="15m" name="Stan" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="The desparately thin finger crack to the right. Razors. Nick Hancock 8-11-02."> The desparately thin finger crack to the right. Razors. Nick Hancock 8-11-02.</climb><text
class="heading3">Mt. Amos Boulder</text><text
class="Discussion">About 200m before the North Face is an enormous pyramid shaped boulder 50m off the track to the left, just after it ascends some water runnels.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="15"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Miyagi"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The route takes the west face. Climb via bolt to top. Long runout above bolt. Downclimb the north face to descend. Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Dec 89."> The route takes the west face. Climb via bolt to top. Long runout above bolt. Downclimb the north face to descend. Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Dec 89.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Mt Amos North Face</text><text class="Discussion"
new="false">This is the obvious big cliff which can be clearly seen from Coles Bay. To get there go up the tourist route to the summit of Amos until you reach the level of the bottom of the cliff and then traverse left around under the cliff. The point where you leave the tourist track is marked by a very definite short corner (Dogstyle). It takes ~30 minutes to reach the cliff and you can descend at either end of the cliff. A most varied bunch of routes generally less than 60m high and well protected for the Hazards, with several that are absolute crackers.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false"
src="coles bay amos north face left.jpg" width=""/><climb
extra="" grade="" length="" name="East Coast Low" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Sketchy route details. Takes the runnel to the left of High In The Bight as its first pitch. P. Jackson, N. Ward. </climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m"
name="High In The Bight" new="false" number="1." stars=""
value="Really just a wandery Auntie K variant. 1. 30m Climb Auntie K for 4m, then traverse left to reach runnel crack up slab. Up slab and runnel to ledge belay. 2. 35m Traverse right around arete and climb corner of Auntie K to finish right of huge boulder on top. Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Jul 86.">Really just a wandery Auntie K variant. 1. 30m Climb Auntie K for 4m, then traverse left to reach runnel crack up slab. Up slab and runnel to ledge belay. 2. 35m Traverse right around arete and climb corner of Auntie K to finish right of huge boulder on top. Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Jul 86.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="20"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Auntie K"
new="false" number="2." stars=""
value="Left past Armadillo to where broken slabs rise up to the cliff base. Continue up these till below an obvious fortress type outcrop on the cliff top. At this point there should be a clean grey corner crack. 1. 16m Up crack to belay at the top of the corner. 2. 21m Traverse right and go up edge of face on grey rock beside a line of small bushes on left. Belay on large block. 3. 28m Left, then up reddish slabs to below a corner. An awkward move up the crack is followed by climbing on the face to the right. Traverse left above the crack to the corner, then bridge out left across the corner to reach a high jug on the left and finish beneath the fortress outcrop. P.Jackson, R.McMahon, Nov 71.">Left past Armadillo to where broken slabs rise up to the cliff base. Continue up these till below an obvious fortress type outcrop on the cliff top. At this point there should be a clean grey corner crack. 1. 16m Up crack to belay at the top of the corner. 2. 21m Traverse right and go up edge of face on grey rock beside a line of small bushes on left. Belay on large block. 3. 28m Left, then up reddish slabs to below a corner. An awkward move up the crack is followed by climbing on the face to the right. Traverse left above the crack to the corner, then bridge out left across the corner to reach a high jug on the left and finish beneath the fortress outcrop. P.Jackson, R.McMahon, Nov 71.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="21"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m"
name="Off, Like A Maggotty Cat" new="false" number="3." stars=""
value="This route goes up the nice slab between Auntie K and Orange Blossom Bachelor. Take some slings for protection on the top slab. 1. 35m Climb the corner for ~8m until it becomes possible to move left onto the arete. Climb the arete and move left to place an eleven Hex., and reach the foot of the slab. Now although the bolt is some distance away, you'll find many bombproof RPs up to your left. On via bolts to top. 2. 15m If you haven't yet abseiled off, climb the twin cracks on the arete to the right of the corner. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, A.Morgan, Jan 91.">This route goes up the nice slab between Auntie K and Orange Blossom Bachelor. Take some slings for protection on the top slab. 1. 35m Climb the corner for ~8m until it becomes possible to move left onto the arete. Climb the arete and move left to place an eleven Hex., and reach the foot of the slab. Now although the bolt is some distance away, you'll find many bombproof RPs up to your left. On via bolts to top. 2. 15m If you haven't yet abseiled off, climb the twin cracks on the arete to the right of the corner. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, A.Morgan, Jan 91.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="22"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="70m"
name="Orange Blossom Bachelor" new="false" number="4." stars=""
value="The easiest route up Amos North Face. Start up the cliffline 60m past Armadillo to an obvious weakness in a broken corner. 1. 25m Move up broken rock for 8m and then trend right on big holds to a perched belay point where the holds stop. 2. 15m Climb the ramp slab to the left, moving across back into the corner. The route does not go up the offwidth above although this has been led. 3. 30m Go up and move left to an obvious chimney. Climb this finishing on the outside. Good bridging. Peter Jackson, I.Lewis, J.Burgess, Aug 72.">The easiest route up Amos North Face. Start up the cliffline 60m past Armadillo to an obvious weakness in a broken corner. 1. 25m Move up broken rock for 8m and then trend right on big holds to a perched belay point where the holds stop. 2. 15m Climb the ramp slab to the left, moving across back into the corner. The route does not go up the offwidth above although this has been led. 3. 30m Go up and move left to an obvious chimney. Climb this finishing on the outside. Good bridging. Peter Jackson, I.Lewis, J.Burgess, Aug 72.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="23"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m"
name="Monkey's Uncle" new="false" number="5." stars=""
value="Be careful to clip only one rope until the end of the traverse on pitch one otherwise the sudden change in direction can result in an unexpected sudden runout on the crux. Start by moving left up the hill past Nincompoop it is the first feasible looking line. It is about 25m right of Orange Blossom Bachelor below an obvious right leading traverse 6 to 8m up. 1. 26m Climb up to the traverse, then along it, then 5m up to belay. 2. 29m Head up left passing old piton to easier ground. Easily to top. J.Friend, R.Jamison, 1974.">Be careful to clip only one rope until the end of the traverse on pitch one otherwise the sudden change in direction can result in an unexpected sudden runout on the crux. Start by moving left up the hill past Nincompoop it is the first feasible looking line. It is about 25m right of Orange Blossom Bachelor below an obvious right leading traverse 6 to 8m up. 1. 26m Climb up to the traverse, then along it, then 5m up to belay. 2. 29m Head up left passing old piton to easier ground. Easily to top. J.Friend, R.Jamison, 1974.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="24"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Nincompoop"
new="false" number="6." stars="**"
value="This route is gaining a reputation as an excellent and character building day out thanks to a vocal yet very biased minority. Found 20m left of RH Negative under the distinctive roof 40m overhead. <br/>1. 30m. A couple of bouldery moves up the wall 10m left of Armadillo (3m high corner) leads to a bushy ramp. Step left then up to large ledge. Straight up until forced left 3m by 'blank' headwall. Up and back right to mantel onto a pedestal next to the belay. <br/>2. 15m. Climb the slab trending towards the LH end of the roof to exit. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jul. 86.">This route is gaining a reputation as an excellent and character building day out thanks to a vocal yet very biased minority. Found 20m left of RH Negative under the distinctive roof 40m overhead. 1. 30m. A couple of bouldery moves up the wall 10m left of Armadillo (3m high corner) leads to a bushy ramp. Step left then up to large ledge. Straight up until forced left 3m by 'blank' headwall. Up and back right to mantel onto a pedestal next to the belay. 2. 15m. Climb the slab trending towards the LH end of the roof to exit. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jul. 86.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18m4" length="105m" name="Armadillo" new="false"
number="7." stars=""
value="More of a dinosaur really, as most of the climbing is now covered by other routes. Start directly below the obvious roof in the centre of the face, about 40m up. 10m up is a large bushy ledge. Start directly below this. 1. 16m Up diagonal line to left and then up short wall to ledge. 2. 15m Start off left end of ledge, with loose flake. Up grey weakness till traverse left can be made and drop to belay among loose spikes. 3. 24m Surmount pillar and then traverse from bong using sky hooks till a ledge leads to a continuation of the crack. Up 5m to belay. 4. 26m Continue up to difficult step left and up, continue diagonally left to foot of narrow chimney. 5. 24m 3m up chimney then right up easy walls to a large ledge belay. M.McHugh, P.Jackson, R.McMahon Nov 71">More of a dinosaur really, as most of the climbing is now covered by other routes. Start directly below the obvious roof in the centre of the face, about 40m up. 10m up is a large bushy ledge. Start directly below this. 1. 16m Up diagonal line to left and then up short wall to ledge. 2. 15m Start off left end of ledge, with loose flake. Up grey weakness till traverse left can be made and drop to belay among loose spikes. 3. 24m Surmount pillar and then traverse from bong using sky hooks till a ledge leads to a continuation of the crack. Up 5m to belay. 4. 26m Continue up to difficult step left and up, continue diagonally left to foot of narrow chimney. 5. 24m 3m up chimney then right up easy walls to a large ledge belay. M.McHugh, P.Jackson, R.McMahon Nov 71</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="26"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m"
name="Violent Jerks" new="false" number="8." stars=""
value="Not recommended to non-masochists although the third pitch is very nice. Start as for Pete and Gerry's Route. <br/>1. 20m Climb Pete and Gerry's Route for 20m. Belay below the roof where the lines diverge. <br/>2. 15m Jam left under the roof and thrutch into the bottomless groove. Up the face above and climb in under the huge roof to belay.<br/>3. 15m Surmount the roof at its RH end, and crank up for a positive finger pocket. As soon as your feet are up traverse left to better holds. Keep traversing above the roofline until the left hand end is reached. Climb the easy crack to the top. Note: Pitch 3 would make an excellent alternative finish to Nincompoop. Al Adams, Nick Deka Apr 91.">The second pitch is recommended to masochists for the blood and tears involved. The third pitch is 'sweet as' and girdles L across the roofline above Nincompoop. 1. 20m. Climb Pete and Gerry's Route for 20m. Belay below the roof where the lines diverge. 2. 15m. Jam left under the roof and thrutch into the bottomless groove. Up the face above and climb in under the huge roof to belay. 3. 15m Mount the roof at its RH end, and crank up for a positive finger pocket. As soon as your feet are up traverse left to better holds. Keep traversing above the roofline until you reach the LH end. Climb the easy crack to the top. Pitch 3 can be accessed without the blood and tears from the second pitch of Nincompoop. Al Adams, Nick Deka Apr 91.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="27"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m"
name="Pete & Gerry's Route" new="false" number="9." stars=""
value="If you find many old bolts you might be right. 1. 15m As for RH Negative 2. 35m Start about 3m left of the second pitch of Babiy Yar. Climb the corner then the chimney and on to the top. Gerry Narcowicz, Pete Steane, Dec 81.">If you find many old bolts you might be right. 1. 15m As for RH Negative 2. 35m Start about 3m left of the second pitch of Babiy Yar. Climb the corner then the chimney and on to the top. Gerry Narcowicz, Pete Steane, Dec 81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="28"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m" name="Babiy Yar"
new="false" number="10." stars="*"
value="Good climb. Takes the widening corner left of RH Negative. 1. 15m Climb to the first belay on RH Negative. 2. 40m Start about 2m left of RH Negative second pitch. Up the corner past an old peg, and around roof. Up corner passing overlap, then step right to arete. Pete Steane, Garn Cooper, Jan 87.">A worthwhile alternative to RH Negative. Takes the widening corner left of RH Negative. 1. 15m Climb to the first belay on RH Negative. 2. 40m Start about 2m left of RH Negative second pitch. Up the corner past an old peg, and around roof. Up corner passing overlap, then step right to arête. Pete Steane, Garn Cooper, Jan 87.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="29"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="60m"
name="RH Negative" new="false" number="11." stars="**"
value="A ripsnorter and probably the best on the hazards at the grade, although some are put off by the wide crack on the second pitch. Brilliant position. About 25m left of Incipience, it is a left trending diagonal crack. Start at a 15m left leading diagonal corner. <br/>1. 15m Climb the corner to a good ledge below the rightmost and lowest roof. <br/>2. 35m Up and left around first roof, then traverse right under second roof. Step right, then up crack to belay. <br/>3. 10m Short grey corner to top. L.Closs, M.McHugh, Nov 71.">Brilliant position. Popular with the masses although some are put off by the wide crack on the second pitch (a big cam induces courage). About 25m left of Incipience, it is a left trending diagonal crack. Start at a 15m left leading diagonal corner. 1. 15m Climb the corner to a good ledge below the rightmost and lowest roof. 2. 35m Up and left around first roof, then traverse right under second roof. Step right, then up crack to belay. 3. 10m Short grey corner to top. L.Closs, M.McHugh, Nov 71.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="30"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="60m"
name="Little Bits Of Wire" new="false" number="12." stars="*"
value="This captivating line of right diagonals is on the face to the right of RH Negative. Not as good as it looks like it's going to be. Start at a broken corner a few metres right of RH Negative. <br/>1. 30m Easily up corner. Tricky move from top of corner to get established on slab face. Move 2m right, then straight up. Step right at overhang towards easy ground and belay. <br/>2. 30m Straight up passing over gentler slab and short grey wall, then boulder to top. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Mar 86.">This captivating line of right diagonals is on the face to the right of RH Negative. Not as good as it looks like it's going to be. Start at a broken corner a few metres right of RH Negative. 1. 30m Easily up corner. Tricky move from top of corner to get established on slab face. Move 2m right, then straight up. Step right at overhang towards easy ground and belay. 2. 30m Straight up passing over gentler slab and short grey wall, then boulder to top. Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Mar 86.</climb><image
new="false" noPrint="false"
src="coles bay amos north face right.jpg" width="800"/><climb
extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="31"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Incipience"
new="false" number="13." stars="***"
value="This is the beaut looking left leading diagonal corner in the middle of the cliff. It can be seen from Coles Bay, you can't miss it. It is a fine struggle that has induced some major air over the years. Originally climbed as two pitches, it is best done in one. A lot better than it looks like it's going to be when you're standing at the start. Peter Jackson, M.McHugh, 1970. FFA: Hot Henry Barber, L.Closs 1975.">It is a fine struggle that has prompted some major air over the years. Black and white, this left- trending corner is easily recognised even from Coles Bay. Originally climbed as two pitches, it is best done in one. A lot better than it looks like it's going to be when you're standing at the start. Peter Jackson, M.McHugh, 1970. FFA: Hot Henry Barber, L.Closs 1975.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="27" guide.action="submit" guide.id="32"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Catch 22"
new="false" number="14." stars="***"
value="A varied and desperate climb up the hanging nose and groove right of Incipience. Featuring hard well protected pocket moves, as well as some major commitment in the final groove, it is one of the standout climbs of Freycinet.<br/>1. 15m 19 Move up to a ledge just right of Incipience, traverse right to a flake crack and climb this to a DBB below the nose.<br/>2. 35m 27 Climb the awkward crack and flake above, to crux moves into the open groove. Sustained climbing up this leads to a DBB on easier ground. All bolts. Heather & Nick Hancock (Alt) May 2006.<br/>">A varied and desperate climb up the hanging nose and groove right of Incipience. Featuring hard, well-protected pocket moves, as well as some major commitment in the final groove, it is one of the standout climbs of Freycinet. 1. 15m 19. Move up to a ledge just right of Incipience, traverse right to a flake crack and climb this to a DBB below the nose. 2. 35m 27 Climb the awkward crack and flake above, to crux moves into the open groove. Sustained climbing up this leads to a DBB on easier ground. Nine bolts. Heather & Nick Hancock (Alt) May 2006.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="70m" name="Black Tomato" new="false"
number="15."
stars="">Varied pitches despite the scrubby appearance. To the left of Uncle's Hair the cliff dips in to a deep corner with an obvious chimney weakness. Slightly right, starting from the ground, is an offwidth. 1. 30m Climb the offwidth for 4m and step left to a scrubby ledge.Go up the chimney to the ledge. 2. 15m Climb the crack in the corner to the base of the next short corner. 3. 25m Climb the corner and continue across the slab to finish. M.McHugh, P.Jackson, R.McMahon 1970</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="64m" name="Uncle's Hair" new="false"
number="16."
stars="">A ridiculously difficult start but a very pleasant second pitch. Move left from Titus Groan to an obvious offwidth starting above a ledge a few metres up. 1. 37m Up the offwidth crux and continue bridging up enormous obvious line to the ledge.Belay at the far right hand end. 2. 25m Move up the slab following a slight leftwards line to the top. Sparse but adequate protection. P.Jackson, M.McHugh, R.McMahon 1970</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="35"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m"
name="Titus Alone" new="false" number="17." stars=""
value="An ill-defined and wandering route on a slab just left of Titus Groan. Start near the middle of the bottom of the big obvious slab. Trend diagonally right until you hit the main line and then head left. Climb where you think you might find runners (because this was Phil's behaviour on the original ascent). Phil Cullen, M.Burton, 1982."> An ill-defined and wandering route on a slab just left of Titus Groan. Start near the middle of the bottom of the big obvious slab. Trend diagonally right until you hit the main line and then head left. Climb where you think you might find runners (because this was Phil's behaviour on the original ascent). Phil Cullen, M.Burton, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="15" name="Grey Band Route" new="false"
number="18."
stars=""> This is an obvious right trending grey band at the right hand end of the cliff. The climbing eases to very easy after the start.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="37"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m"
name="Titus Groan" new="false" number="19." stars="*"
value="A good route with an ugly bolt. Start near the Grey Band Route, just right of the obvious line which is straight and scrubby in the upper reaches. 1. 35m Up the weakness in the face until the small overhang crossing the face is reached (20m). Move slightly left crossing the overhang and up to a bolt. Continue up the slab (crux) to belay below the bulge in a narrow slot. 2. 15m To the top. M.Burton, Phil Cullen, 1982.">A thought-provoking route with a very ugly bolt. Start near the Grey Band Route, just right of the obvious line which is straight and scrubby in the upper reaches. 1. 35m Up the weakness in the face until the small overhang crossing the face is reached (20m). Move slightly left crossing the overhang and up to a bolt. Continue up the slab (crux) to belay below the bulge in a narrow slot. 2. 15m To the top. M.Burton, Phil Cullen, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="38"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m"
name="Gormenghast" new="false" number="20." stars=""
value="Right of Titus Groan is a right leaning overlap groove. Climb this, then the slab above, then up to finish up the venerable grade 14 crack of enigmatic origin. Phil Cullen, M.Burton, 1982."> Right of Titus Groan is a right leaning overlap groove. Climb this, then the slab above, then up to finish up the venerable grade 14 crack of enigmatic origin. Phil Cullen, M.Burton, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Dogstyle"
new="false" number="21." stars="**"
value="Sustained and rewarding. Start at the obvious corner mentioned above. Climb the corner. Hot Henry Barber 1975."> Sustained and rewarding. Start at the obvious corner mentioned above. Climb the corner. Hot Henry Barber 1975.</climb><climb
extra="7B" grade="19" length="17m" name="I Wish She Were Mine"
new="false" number="22." stars="***"
value="Around the corner to the right of Dog Style. Follow the grey dyke past 7 bolts to rap point. Currently missing the second hanger? N Selby, 12/6/2004.">Around the corner to the right of Dog Style. Follow the grey dyke past 7 bolts to rap point. Currently missing the second hanger? N Selby, June 2004.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22/23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="41"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="17m" name="Project"
new="false" number="23." stars=""
value="Same start as I Wish she were mine, then go right, past 7 bolts to the same rap point. N. Selby.<br/>">Same start as I Wish She Were Mine, then go right, past 7 bolts to the same rap point. N. Selby.
</climb><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">Below the right hand side of Mt Amos North Face, is a small cliff (also facing north), with two very worthwhile routes on it.</text><climb
extra="" grade="26" length="20m" name="Friction Romance"
new="false" number="24."
stars="**"> The central seam crackline with a bolt at half height, 20m left of Fin D'amour. Good wires lead to the bolt and the crux, followed by easier well-protected climbing to the top. No lower-off installed so get someone to 2nd you, or rap off the tree at the top and walk back around to get your rope. Nick Hancock and Andrew Bissett, 15 Sept 01.</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="22" length="20m" name="Fin D&apos;amour"
new="false" number="25." stars="**"
value="The arete you walk under to get to the main wall. Start on the right via two u-bolts to gain a small ledge. Move onto the arete and continue past another 3 bolts to the top. Good climbing on solid crystals. Descent as above. Nick Hancock and Andrew Bissett 15-9-01."> The arête you walk under to get to the main wall. Start on the right via two u-bolts to gain a small ledge. Move onto the arête and continue past another 3 bolts to the top. Good climbing on solid crystals. Descent as above. Nick Hancock and Andrew Bissett, 15 Sept 01.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Mt Amos West Face</text><text
class="Discussion">If you climb up Mt.Amos from the saddle between Mt.Amos and Mt.Mayson you'll encounter one or two respectable buttresses with some potential. It is a fair hike but it is a decent cliff and it is good to have a new perspective on the peninsula. The first climb I am aware of in this area was done in Jan 88 by Garn Cooper and Allan Adams, and is probably the furthest right line (it is quite nice and about grade 17). The only other time I know of anyone climbing here was when four blokes from Canberra (namely Dave Jenkins, Mark Sands, Rohan Hyslop and Robert Appel) visited in early 1989, and did these routes.</text><text
class="text"
new="false">These three climbs are on the buttress up the ridge from the lookout : good luck finding them</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="48"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="Spoonerism"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Up the obvious crack in the middle of the wall. M.Sands, R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, Jan 89."> Up the obvious crack in the middle of the wall. M.Sands, R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, Jan 89.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="49"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="Trena"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Start 70m right of Kamikaze Squad. Up ramp then wall to large block. Over this on jugs. R.Appel, D.Jenkins, Jan 89."> Start 70m right of Kamikaze Squad. Up ramp then wall to large block. Over this on jugs. R.Appel, D.Jenkins, Jan 89.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="50"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m"
name="Plain Sailing" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Up steep wall left of black overhang. M.Sands, R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, Jan 89."> Up steep wall left of black overhang. M.Sands, R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, Jan 89.</climb><text
class="Discussion" new="false"
value="This cliff is at the northern end of West Amos crag just left of a large overhanging orange wall (which has an awesome steep and wide crack on it waiting to be done). This crag is much easier to reach by traversing around right from the Mt Amos track a bit higher than the North Face. A bit of an adventure to find it.">This cliff is at the northern end of West Amos crag just left of a large overhanging orange wall (which has an awesome steep and wide crack on it waiting to be done). This crag is much easier to reach by traversing around right from the Mt Amos track a bit higher than the North Face. A bit of an adventure to find it.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="52"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m"
name="Fondling A Lesbian" new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Superb well protected climbing up the well formed dyke. R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, M.Sands, Jan 89."> Superb well-protected climbing up the well-formed dyke. R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, M.Sands, Jan 89.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="53"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m"
name="Two Minute Noodles" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Very Good. Up The Blind Watchmaker for 4m. Traverse right to a runner, then up thin diagonal to left. Follow large crack up. Seconds did direct start at 21. M.Sands, R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, Jan 89."> Very Good. Up The Blind Watchmaker for 4m. Traverse right to a runner, then up thin diagonal to left. Follow large crack up. Seconds did direct start at 21. M.Sands, R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, Jan 89.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="54"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="30m"
name="The Blind Watchmaker" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The left diagonal line on the left of the buttress. Up this line and then up the arete. D.Jenkins, R.Hyslop, M.Sands, Jan 89."> The left diagonal line on the left of the buttress. Up this line and then up the arête. D.Jenkins, R.Hyslop, M.Sands, Jan 89.</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Lookout Cliff</text><text
class="Discussion">The following route lies on the east side of the Winglass Bay Track in the saddle between Mt. Amos and Mt. Mayson. Follow the track to the saddle and turn left along the Lookout Track for 15m. The climb ascends the boulder on the left.</text><climb
extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="57"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="7m" name="Firesome"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The leftward tending short, steep diagonal crack on the boulder. Hamish Jackson, Adele Vincent, Dec 94."> The leftward tending short, steep diagonal crack on the boulder. Hamish Jackson, Adele Vincent, Dec 94.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The following two climbs are on the west side of the Winglass Bay Track near the old Lookout.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="59"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="30m" name="Clit"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Doug Fife, Nick Ward, Sep 79."> Doug Fife, Nick Ward, Sep 79.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="60"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="30m"
name="Bloody Tourists" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="I think this has an aid move somewhere. Doug Fife, Nick Ward, Sep 79."> I think this has an aid move somewhere. Doug Fife, Nick Ward, Sep 79.</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Mt Amos East Face</text><text
class="Discussion">Just southwest of the saddle between Dove and Amos is a high slabby broken cliff which was first ascended in 1976. I have no record of this route. This cliff can be reached by extrapolating along either the Windy Hill route or the Amos north face route.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="63"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="80m" name="Weatherman"
new="false" number="" stars="" value="Start down the slope past an obvious overhang on the right hand side of this cliff. 1. 48m Straight up to a small fractured cave. Pull out left and go up narrow ramp to the faint line leading up and then to the right. Up thais and continue on the edge of the face to the right finishing up a small right facing corner. 2. 32m Move right onto the face and go up to the overhangs following them diagonally up out to the exit - all very easy and pleasant. N. Duhig, P.Jackson, Apr 86.">Start down the slope past an obvious overhang on the right hand side of this cliff. 1. 48m Straight up to a small fractured cave. Pull out left and go up narrow ramp to the faint line leading up and then to the right. Up thais and continue on the edge of the face to the right finishing up a small right facing corner. 2. 32m Move right onto the face and go up to the overhangs following them diagonally up out to the exit - all very easy and pleasant. N. Duhig, P.Jackson, Apr 86.</climb>
</guide>
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