<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide guidestars="***">
<text
class="heading1">Frenchmans Cap Guide</text>
<text
class="heading2">Acknowledgement</text><text
class="text">The text and topos of this guide are mainly from Phil Robinson's 1979 guide, and are used with permission. In Phil's guide he acknowleges the help of Reg Williams, Dave Neilson, Wilf Elvey, Basil Rathbone, Ken Harvey, Ian Ross, Peter Jackson (who drew the topos), Chris Dewhirst, Vili Bartholomew, Glen Kowalik and the CCT.
This guide also contains route descriptions first published in the 1991 Rock Guide by Stephen Bunton, in Rock, and in the CCT newsletter.</text><text
class="heading2">Introduction</text>
<text
class="text">The Frenchmans Cap complex takes the form of a horseshoe shaped range, open to the south east, with the Frenchman itself dominant on the western rim. The environment is spectacular, challenging and beautiful, its physical features sculptured by the Pleistocene glaciation which determined the character of most of our high country. West and north the land falls steeply to the gorges of the Franklin. Tarns nestle high on the shoulders of the mountain, while between the encircling arms of the horseshoe, overlooked by the great East and South East Faces, dark lakes are set in rich rainforest which rises from the valley floor to terminate beneath walls and towers of white quartzite.
Three miles of secondary peaks and crags curve around to connect the Cap with Philps Peak, the highest point on the eastern arm of the range, while the southward arm extends a mile to its southern limit at Clytemnestra.
</text><text
class="heading2">Climate</text><text
class="text">Being close to the west coast in the path of the prevailing westerly airstream at an altitude of 4734 feet (1443 metres) Frenchmans Cap is one of the wettest places in Tasmania. No direct rainfall records are available but the long term average would be in the vicinity of 140 inches per year. Though Tasmanian rainfall is fairly well distributed throughout the year, the period from late autumn through to early summer is the wettest. Records and experience indicate that the time between late January and the end of March offers the best chance of a dry trip. Snowfall is heaviest in winter, but can occur at any time, so parties are advised to take weather into account when planning trips, and particularly when anticipating bivouacs on the longer routes.
Frenchmans has been climbed in winter under snow conditions and an account of such a trip appears in Skyline No. 12 (Launceston Walking Club magazine). In July 1978 two walkers were unlucky enough to be trapped by 7 feet of snow at Lake Tahune hut. Down to their last scraps of food after several days they were rescued during a short break in the weather by helicopter. Given the right snow conditions however there is ample scope for winter mountaineering on the Cap and its ancillary ridges.
</text><text
class="heading2">Historical Notes</text><text
class="text">The Frenchman was probably first sighted from out to sea off the west coast. It is clearly visible from Macquarie Harbour and its 'bald dome' is referred to in early writing in connection with the Sarah Island convict settlement (1822-1837). The first recorded ascent of the mountain was by surveyor James Sprent in 1853. We owe the present track to the efforts of Government track cutter Philp in 1910. The track was allowed to decay for many years but was re-opened in the 1930s, by which time the mountain had received a number of visitors. It is now a popular venue for walking trips. Climbers began to appear on the scene in the early 1960s, attracted by the challenge of the great quartzite walls, up till then unclimbed, and perhaps too by the magnificent surroundings. Attention has increased, until today virtually all major features have been climbed, some by several routes. It could be said that with the ascent of the East Face, the era of conquest has passed. Future activities will be in the nature of consolidation and development and, of course, repeat ascents of the quality routes already established.</text><text
class="heading2">Conservation</text><text
class="text">Frenchmans Cap was proclaimed a National Park in 1941 and now covers 10214 hectares. A severe fire swept through the alpine area in November 1966 and from 1971 the view of the HEC Franklin exploration road at Mt. McCall reduced the wilderness value of the Park, To the north and west the mighty Franklin River encircles the mountain. The flooding proposed by the Hydro-Electric Commission in the potential Lower Gordon-Franklin-King scheme would cause visual pollution from the Cap. Man-made lakes, further roads and drowned trees would seriously ruin the present wild beauty of the region.
TO DO - update this!</text><text
class="heading2">Access</text><text
class="text">The walking track commences at the Lyell Highway 206km from Hobart and 54km from Queenstown. Tahune Hut is approximately 25km from the road and can be reached in one day given a reasonably early start. Climbing parties with heavy packs may prefer to break the journey at Lake Vera, four to five hours in. The track is rough, but adequate, though somewhat muddy in wet weather, especially on the South Loddon plains ("Sodden Loddons") and Philps Lead. A highlight of the walk in, in good weather, is the sudden and confronting view of the Cap from the top of Barron Pass.
There is a daily bus service from Hobart to Queenstown and parties travelling west can be set down at the start of the track in the early afternoon with sufficient time to reach Lake Vera.</text><text
class="text">More information about the walk can be found at the Parks and Wildlife web site:
http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/recreation/tracknotes/frmans.html</text><text
class="heading2">Huts and Campsites</text><text
class="text">Lake Vera
Michael's Hut. Completed in March 1979, situated approximately 50 metres north east of the Vera Creek crossing on a scrubby knoll. It has two large bunks catering for approximately 16 people; design is 'open plan' with a pot-bellied stove.
Lake Tahune
Completed in 1971, the Tahune hut is comfortable and weatherproof with bunks for 12 people. It is often full in summer. Living area is small and the stove leaves something to be desired. It is better to cook outside with views of the Tahune Face and distant mountains.
Tahune is an excellent base for climbing activities and most climbs can be reached from here in less than one hour. The surroundings of the lake were devastated in 1966 by a fire started irresponsibly along the Lyell Highway. Fortunately regrowth is now well underway and the area shows promise of regaining much of its former beauty.
Campsites:
Loddon River - At the crossing.
Philps Creek - 3km south of the Loddon Crossing.
Lake Vera - There are numerous dry campsites in the scrub just beyond the creek.
Lake Tahune - The hut is better in bad weather. </text><text
class="heading2">The Rock</text><text
class="text">Frenchmans Cap is composed of a massive, resistant quartzite interspersed with occasional bands of schist. Though some climbs have a considerable amount of loose material on them the rock is generally sound. When dry it has reasonable friction characteristics except for some patches of extremely hard, glassy quartzite.
This latter material has few cracks and offers hide protection. However, over most or the cliffs nut protection is available. Quartzite is not always suitable for piton placements as brittle rock sometimes splits off in blocks when a peg is forced in. A wide range of nuts is adequate for most routes.
</text><text
class="heading2">Grading</text><text
class="text">Australian numerical grading (Ewbank system) is used throughout this guide. Grades of old climbs have been translated into this system (Grade 15 approximately equal to 5+).</text><text
class="heading2">The Western Arm</text><image
src="WesternArm.png" width="600"/><text
class="heading3">Clytemnestra</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="13" length=""
name="Twisted Towers and South-East Summit " number=""
stars="*">See Figure 1. Climb down to the col below the first Twisted Tower then up the Tower (15m) returning the same way. Down the gully on west side and around to between Towers 1 and 2. Bridge up chimney between Towers (6m) and through gap on eastern side. Walk along ledge below second Tower to a crack on the right wall. Climb crack (15m, crux) then straight up to top of second Tower (12m) . Return to stance and traverse left to cut between second Tower and south-east summit of Clytemnestra. Scramble to summit via easy chimney.
First Ascent C. Baxter, P. Stranger, R. Williams, 17 Feb 1968. </climb>
<text
class="heading3">South-West Wall</text>
<text
class="text">This is the far side of Frenchmans Cap from Lake Tahune.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="150m" name="Western Slab Route"
number=""
stars="">The climb commences on the first distinct smooth, sloping wall encountered when moving around the south west base of the Cap from the West Col. Slab is at least 45m in length. (Further around is a steeper, similar wall as yet unclimbed.) The lefthand side of the slab is bounded by a gully.
Go up slab for two pitches (little if any protection) to vertical wall. Traverse leftwards along wall to short vertical crack (spike runner). Above this is a flake belay stance. Traverse left again and do two pitches up the right-hand nose of the gully (second one delicate). Above gully there is a hard final pitch up inside corner which commences with an overhanging chockstone.
First ascent M. Douglas, J. Fairhall. 1962.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length=""
name="Western Slab Route Alternate Finish" number=""
stars="">Straight up vertical wall (after two pitches) then along a sloping terrace to the right for a short way; then straight up to top, finishing in top of gully
First ascent I. Brown. solo. 1973. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="" name="South-West Wall Chimney"
number=""
stars="">The "obvious chimney" on the southwest wall was climbed by B. Allen and M. March in 1972. No further details are known.
</climb>
<text
class="heading3">South-East Face</text>
<image
src="SouthEast2.png" width="400"/><climb extra="" grade="10"
length="180m" name="Southern Parapet" number=""
stars="*">This climb goes up the south west skyline of the South East Face (see Fig 3) . Commence from just below the South Col on its eastern side, and climb along the edge of the face until the slopes of the summit dome are reached. The main part of the climb is reached after about three rope lengths front the South Col.
First ascent R. Sykes, M Douglas. Alt. leads. Dec 1963.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="270m" name="The Chimes of Freedom"
number=""
stars="***">A classic climb with many superb pitches.
Start: At the font of the second ramp left of the main couloir easily distinguished by its mighty roofs. This climb follows the ramp until it culminates on
a large ledge. It then traverses diagonally left to a corner facing in the opposite direction to the ramp.
(1) 30m Steep scramble up the series of broken corners towards the foot of the ramp proper.
(2) 30m Continue in the same fashion to the ramp.
(2) 24m Up the ramp to a grassy ledge
(4) 18m (Crux) Climb, jam the comer to mach a small ledge. There are two awkward moves.
(5) 36m Continue up the series of slabs until the crack steepens. Jam the vertical 18m corner using holds on the right wall to belay in the foot of the chimney.
(6) 27m Ascend the chimney or climb the rib on the right (better) to belay on a large ledge.
(7) 21m Traverse diagonally left to the foot of a corner, very exposed and poorly protected.
(8) 18m Climb the corner for 5m and then traverse right and up a groove to a ledge. Traverse back left into a corner and belay. (A difficult pitch, This was the crux on the first ascent when pitch 4 was aided.)
(9) 33m Climb straight up the corner for 18m then trend left up loose blocks to the summit plateau.
(10) 33m Step left around the corner and up gully to summit. Easy.
First ascent J. Ewbank, J. Moore 19 Feb 1968
First free ascent (pitch 4) C. Dewhirst, D. Neilson. Jan 1970.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16M4" length="390m" name="Valerie" number=""
stars="">The line marked in Figs 2 and 3 is largely guesswork. The route has probably had only one ascent. Four artificial pitches and a waterfall pitch give this fine route an alpine flavour. It is a long, serious expedition, perhaps more demanding than the overall grade would indicate.
Start: This climb largely follows the major line just left of the Sydney Route, and starts as for that climb.
(1) 36m (8) Climb a series of vegetated corners to a slanting ledge and bollard belay.
(2) 21m (8) Traverse 6m left and up to a belay beneath an overhanging wall.
(3) 36m (13) Move down and left on to the wall and continue up this to a belay on top of a huge block.
(4) 27m (8) Traverse 6m left along a good ledge, then climb diagonally up to a belay below and to the left of a waterfall.
(5) 33m (15) Climb diagonally right and across the waterfall to a belay on a good ledge. Protection -nuts and two pitons.
(6) 24m (14) Traverse back left for 6m, then move up (bollard runner); then down again, re-crossing the waterfall to belay beneath some huge, loose blocks, on a good ledge.
(7) 36m (15M4) Free climb the waterfall for 15m, then move into "artificial" for another 15m (all on jams) - then 6m of free climbing to a small ledge which is very wet and unpleasant.
(8) 24m (16M2) Three pieces of aid to a very hard and greasy free finish on to a good ledge under a 2m roof
(9) 36m (15) Traverse out right for 3m then up for another 9m to a diagonal traverse line to the right. Follow this until it leads in above the crack and then continue up the V chimney to a reasonable belay.
(10) 27m (11) Continuo up the "V" chimney until about 9m below the big overhang, and belay in the chimney.
(11) 30m (14) Traverse out right and then diagonally up to a ledge and piton belay.
(12) 36m (14) Climb straight up a series of corners and sleep walls to a good ledge and belay beneath a chimney.
(13) 27m (14M1) Climb the chimney until it suddenly narrows and use three pieces of aid to a small ledge and nut belay.
(14) 24m (14M1) Climb the crack above with two items of aid and belay back from the cliff on a pile of rubble.
First ascent C. Dewhirst, J. Ewbank. J. Moore, P. Stranger 16 Feb 1968
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="340m" name="The Natimuk Route"
stars="">Crack system just L of arete, on buttress between Valerie and The Sydney Route. (Described start may be frequently be wet, in which case it might be better to begin by way of SR Direct Start. ) Start 40m uphill from SR.
1) 50m (16) Short, steep crack, then R along ramp. Cross seepage, then up to ledge (poor belay).
2) 40m (16) Traverse R round arete, then up to large terrace (fifth stance of Valerie).
3) 50m (17) Up to crack system. Swap into L crack after a few metres, then wall above (no pro) to L-leading sickle. Follow this, then R to grassy ledge at base of thin crack.
4) 30m (equal crux) Beautiful crack and corner to belay in alcove just below detached pinnacle on R.
5) 30m (equal crux) L wall to ledge (no belay possible). Boldly up R to prominent crack in roof. Through this, then L along cracks to ledge. (Pitches 4 and 5 led as one pitch on FA.)
6) 45m (15) Cracks near arete to ledge.
7) 60m (18) R crack, then easier ground past ledges to stance below steepening.
8) 40m (20) Steep crack to summit.
Simon Mentz, Steve Monks (alt) 6-3-95
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="380m" name="The Sydney Route"
number=""
stars="***">The most popular climb at Frenchmans Cap, originally known as "A toi la Gloire" (Thine is the Glory). It was the first route up the main face of Frenchmans Cap. See Figs 2 and 3.
Despite the comparatively easy finish, the route has great character, especially in the middle pitches which are sustained and culminate in the superb rising traverse - "L'escalier du Diable" or "Stairway of the Devil". The rock, for the most part, is of excellent quality. Protection is reasonable.
Start: Walk a little up the main scree couloir below the South-East Face. From near its base scramble up to the right to the foot of a very vegetated crack just left of a small buttress. Bollard belay here.
(1) 36m Move straight up the crack then up the vegetated, greasy ramp leading right to a belay.
(2) 36m Traverse easily to the right over much vegetation and behind blocks to the foot of a large chimney with a sloping floor of loose rocks. Walk up this, behind the flake, and belay at the top of the chimney. This chimney is a good landmark. The climb proper starts here.
(3) 18m Move diagonally left and up across the wall to a terrace covered in loose rock, nut belay.
(4) 36m Move diagonally up to the right, across a line and on to a small stance. Belay to a piton at the foot of a detached pinnacle.
(5) 24m Climb chimney to ledge at 12m. The overhanging wall above and just left of a slight corner is climbed on bad rock to a ledge and a bollard belay.
(6) 30m Move slightly up right into the chimney. Bridge up this (very exposed) with some delicate moves up to a small ledge. Continue by jamming up the left-hand crack. Traverse right and up the face to a stance and a piton belay.
(7) 30m Move up to a crack in the corner on the right. Jam and bridge up this past a piton runner and then a cracker. Continue this superb, sustained pitch past a ledge on left and belay 6m higher.
(8) 30m Limited protection on this pitch, small wires. Traverse 6-9m left around a buttress into the next groove. Climb this line, moving up the face where necessary, near the top a substantial ledge will be reached. Move to a good belay on top of a block 3m higher up.
(9) 21m The crux, named "L'escalier du Diable". Move diagonally upward across the smooth, vertical left-hand wall to reach a small ledge on the arete high on the left. Belay on the ledge, using a small, pointed knob. Note: This pitch can be continued around the corner to a better belay stance at the risk of rope jamming, and with the possibility of an awkward situation if the second man were to fall and require help.
(10) 33m Traverse delicately, down and left, into the big exit chimney. Climb easily up the chimney.
(11) 30m Continue up the chimney, right and up large boulder.
(12) 30m Continue up the chimney, then climb out on to a large boulder.
(13) 30m Scramble easily up grass and. rocks on to the summit slope.
First ascent Bryden Allen, Jack Pettigrew, Jan 7 1965.
The ascent took about 10 hours. On two days, prior to the climb, they reconnoitered 900ft of the route. Fixed ropes were left on the lower access pitch, but not on the climb proper.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="60m"
name="The Sydney Route Direct Start" number=""
stars="**">Start: On top of the grassy buttress directly below the route proper. A belay sling can be threaded between a block and the foot of the wall.
(1) 27m (13) Trend left up the obvious line to a good chock belay on a ledge.
(2) 33m (14) Continue up the line, still tending left, move out on to the left wall about halfway up. Belay on a good ledge at the top of the wall. Move right over easy ground to the Âœlarge chimney. Belay at its top then continue on pitch 3 of the main route.
First ascent Bryden Allen, Reg Williams, Alt, leads. Feb 1972.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="370m" name="The Melbourne Variant"
number=""
stars="*">The variant leaves the original route on pitch 8 and rejoins it later in the exit chimney (pitch 11).
(1-7) As original route.
(8) 22m (14) Begin an awkward and very exposed traverse around to the left to a slight groove at 6m. Here the variant leaves the original route. Traverse a further 9m to a corner, down around to the left, then into a small stance and belay in next line (blocked 15m up by an enormous overhang).
(9) 24m (15) Move diagonally up to the left for 5m to a tiny flake runner. Traverse left around the arete (crux) on awkward small holds. Now climb 9m up the wall to a stance on the left and piton runner. Then straight up to a good belay ledge.
(10) 27m (15) Climb 5m up to the rotten corner on the left and mantleshelf (piton runner). Traverse delicately right to the foot of an overhanging crack (chockstone runner). Jam up this dirty crack on poor rock and then up a wall to mantleshelf on to a ledge with moss and loose blocks. Nut runner in left crack above. Jam and bridge around the mossy overhang and up to a nut belay in the chimney.
(11) 36m (13) During this pitch the variant rejoins the original route of Allen and Pettigrew (Jan '65). The large overhanging chockstone is by-passed on the right wall, then easy climbing leads to a good belay.
(12-13) As for original route.
First ascent C Baxter, C. Dewhirst. 19 Feb 1968.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18+" length="300m+" name="Brisbane Line"
stars="">Start as for Sydney Route Direct Start but go immediately up L.
1) 45m (17) Tend up L (may be wet).
2) 35m As for SR. Scramble over boulders to R, then ramp behind block.
3) 25m (15) Up out of chimney, then vegetated ramp to top. Up, tending slightly R. Belay on ledge which slopes up R at top.
4) 35m (crux of new climbing) Up from belay to runner - make it a good one, it may be your last. Traverse up R to crack, then up R of detached pillar. Belay behind this. (Some old gear may be in evidence here.)
5) 30m (14) Directly across L on good traverse. Up to chimney. Belay above blocks perched in cracks.
6-9) As for SR except start pitch six a little higher.
10) 50m (11) Angle up L of good holds into chimney, then up to "landing pad".
11) 30m (14) Chimney, heading R into other chimneys. Continue to mega-stance.
12) 50m (8) Step out on L wall. After a few moves stand up and run across pasture. Take L gully to top.
13) Wander up gully to summit.
Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan 14-2-89
</climb>
<text
class="heading3">The East Face</text><text
class="text">Beneath the right-hand boundary of the face is an enormous pointed gendarme (500ft+) called Terray's Tower. The old "North-East Passage" and "Fleur-De-Lis" lie to the north of the Tower. "Waterloo Road" and "Napoleon" are on the south side. "Conquistador" is in the middle of the East Face. </text><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="330m"
name="The De Gaulles Nose Route" number=""
stars="***">De Gaulles Nose is the main arete between the SE Face and the E Face. The 'nose' is the prominent roof seen in profile. Start 50 m R of the nose at a chossy corner at the top of the vegetated ramps.
1) 40m Up corners to bushy ledge. L to trees.
2) 40m (20) L to foot of corners. Up past ancient PR and blocks to ledge.
3) 15m (21) Up shallow corner on R to horizontal break.
4) 50m (23) L to crack. Up past roof and up overhanging crack to ramp. Up crack on L to large ledge.
5) 50m (21) From L of ledge diagonally to shallow corner. Up then diagonally R to huge flake.
6) 50m R to arete and up (easily) to large ledge.
7) 40 m Up front of buttress (easy) to ledge.
8) 45 m Up the nose. R into groove. Up to top (loose).
Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead (var) 31-1-83
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="370m" name="The Great Flake"
number=""
stars="***">The most obvious feature on the E Face. Start at the corner down and R of the flake.
1) 90m Up to foot of corner.
2) 25m (16) Corner to ledge on L.
3) 40m (20) L for 8 m then up to shallow corner. Up to small stance. BB.
4) 40m (20) Up flake (loose flakes). Follow ramp to foot of corner.
5) 40m (19) Up corner to roof (highpoint of 74-5 attempt). Undercling then up off-width chimney to bulge (set of tube chocks required). R on to face and up to sloping ledge.
6) 40m (22) Round roof then off-width to bulge (tube chocks again). R and up to shallow corner on arete. R for 5m.
7) 21m (21) Up corner for 5m. L for 8m into next corner. Up to ledge and PBs.
8) 40m (18) Up short slab to top. Up wall to ledge. R to avoid roof then L to foot shallow corner.
9) 30m (18) Roof and corner to ledge. R for 5m then up.
Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees 29-1-82
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="385m" name="The Lorax" number=""
stars="***">An impressive route up a R-leading corner level with upper half of The Great Flake. Protection is sparse on pitches 6 and 7. Start 80m up, from top of the highest grassy ramp below the E Face.
1) 55m Diagonally L up ramps for 15m. Up L wall of prominent corner.
2) 50m Up 5m then L and up 10m to the contact of steep white rock with the black rock. Diagonally R until 25m below Bus-stop Ledge.
3) 35m (20) Traverse 10m L to cave. Up difficult overhanging crack to top of R-leading corner.
4) 50m Traverse 15m L along obvious ledge. Up corner to good ledge on L wall. (Note this traverse is 25m too high on the topo)
5) 37m Step R round arete to large ledge. Up juggy wall and short, steep hand-crack to ledge below big black corner of Conquistador.
6) 38m (19) Up 5m then L 6m. Up short, bottomless corner with difficulty and wall above for 6m. L for 7m then up corner to ledge R of deep cleft.
7) 40 m (18) From left of ledge up wall for 4 m. Step L and up corner. Pass small roof to gain ledge below black, mossy corner. Step up and R round arete. Traverse easily R to top of small chimney.
Peter Steane, Garn Cooper (alt) 2-88
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="55m"
name="The Lorax-Conquistador Connection"
stars="">A worthwhile link pitch-and-a-bit from the top of pitch 3 of The Lorax to pitch 9 of Conquistador. Start: climb the first 3 pitches of The Lorax.
1) 45m 19 Instead of traversing left head up right past some loose flakes and a terrific corner.
2) 10m Continue up the neat little wall on the right to join Conquistador at the big long ledge.
FA Pete Steane, Colin Moorhead 1/97
</climb>
<image
src="SouthEast1.png" width="600"/><climb extra="" grade="20"
length="360m" name="Conquistador" number=""
stars="***">"Perhaps Australia's greatest climb, a serious undertaking" (in 1979!)
Start: Line of weakness directly below the left-hand end of the big ledge halfway up the face. (See Figure 2).
(1) 36m Belay on big ledge beneath a steep corner.
(2) 36m Climb the corner and move slightly right to a good ledge and belay.
(3) 36m Climb slightly right and straight up to a good belay on top of a block in a corner.
(4) 15m Move up with difficulty on to good holds and then traverse left for 12m to another good ledge and belay.
(5) 36m Climb the wall directly above (steep) to a small piton belay in the wall.
(6) 42m Climb the corner above (very loose rock) and belay on "Bus Stop Ledge". (Bivouac on first ascent.)
(7) 27m Finger traverse left for 5m to the start of the corner above. Climb corner and bolt belay 3m below the V-chimney. (Piton rests on this stretch on the FA.)
(8) 36m Up the overhanging V-chimney for 24m then continue using mixed free and/or artificial techniques to a long ledge. Belay to piton.
(9) 36m Move along the ledge and layback up the corner to a big ledge at 24m. Continue climbing the corner above and move on to a small ledge on the right wall to piton.
(10) 42m Straight up then right and up the wall (delicate) to a small ledge on the top of a detached block. Traverse diagonally left for 6m on to a ledge and piton belay (in place).
(11) 24m (Crux) Up to the loose blocks, and left then back right with improving protection. (Note: it has been said that this pitch is closer to 22 than 20. Aided at M5 on the FA).
First ascent C. Dewhirst, D. Neilson, I. Ross. 5-6 Jan 1972.
First complete free ascent David Jenkins, Rohan Hyslop (alt), Lucy Collaery 2-90
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19,M1" length="" name="Conquistador Variants"
number=""
stars="">1) to 4) As for Conquistador to start of traverse on pitch 4.
5a) Don't traverse 12m L but go straight up loose flakes to top of large flake directly below Bus-stop Ledge. PR.
6a) Descend other side of flake for 3m and up groove for 13m. Traverse 6m L on ledges then up 5m to L end of Bus-stop Ledge.
7) to 9) As for Conquistador.
10a) To avoid the final dripping overhangs, go diagonally R to a large grassy ledge below line of weakness through roofs. (Original final pitch is on L.)
11a) Extremely loose, wet and dangerous. ('Probably the worst pitch I've ever climbed.' Fantini.) Up blank corner above ledge. PR. Tension L to horrible corner. Up roof. Exit R on wet rock and huge loose blocks.
Simon Parsons, John Fantini (var) 29-12-83 </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="130m" name="Death and Transfiguration"
stars="">Follow Fantini/Parsons variant of Conquistador (or other route/variant) until 6m diagonally R below Bus Stop Ledge.
1) 40m (19) Prominent line just R of belay, then step R round arete at chossy steepening at about 33m. Up, then back L to seat sized belay ledge. Mediocre belay.
2) 30m (crux) Up 3m, then L to stance. L into corner, then up this (free at first, then rests and aid moves). Veer R to belay at chossy horizontal below many roofs, above and out from belayer.
3) 15m (aid equal crux) Reach up R to clip in situ #2 SLCD. Tension R round arete, then aid and easy free moves to ledge on R. Up 3m to horizontal, belay.
4) 45m Scuttle R to join North-east Passage at beginning of its final pitches.
Peter Steane, Garn Gooper (alt) 25-12-94
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="310m" name="Waterloo Road" number=""
stars="*">The first half of this route follows the corner between Terray's Tower and the East Face. (Figure 2.)
The upper section of the route is on the edge of the East Face itself. There has been some discussion as to whether this part of the climb corresponds with the upper section of the North East Passage Route. As there is no practical way of resolving this issue, the controversy is best forgotten. The following description is from "Argus".
This magnificent route follows the huge corner formed where Terray's Tower meets the East Face. It is in perpetual shade and is usually wet; the lower pitches tending to be grassy and mossy. The climb is sustained.
Start: Climb up the greasy walls to the grassy ledge below the right end of the East Face. Move along this to the foot of the diedre.
(1) 48m (13). Up the gully to the mossy overhang. Using the right crack jam and bridge around it and past two poor pitons in place (legacy of earlier reccy). Continue up the chimney past an abseil sling and up to a small cave at 33m. Move right to a ledge and piton belay (in place).
(2) 33m (15). Bridge up past the mossy bulge (nut runner) and then move left around the overhang. Continue up the line to a nut runner and move up left around the overhanging nose. Climb up to a ledge on the right wall at 27m. Traverse delicately left (piton runner in place) and awkwardly up a small corner past a piton runner and up to a small ledge and nut belay.
(3) 27m (14). Straight up the line above, past a ledge, then up more steeply past a chockstone runner to a very wet stance and chockstone belay below the mossy overhang with the jammed perlon sling.
(4) 30m (14). Make an exposed move on to the right wall and continue the diagonal traverse up to the right. Move up to a ledge then climb diagonally up to the left (delicate) back into the main line. Continue more easily up to a small stance and nut belay at the foot of a wet chimney.
(5) 27m (13). Climb the chimney, using the crack and facing right past a nut runner to where it narrows and steepens (nut runner). Bridge up on small holds and move up the left wall to a good ledge and block belay.
(6) 24m (15). Climb up on bad, wet rock in the corner; then at 6m move onto the right wall (poor piton runner). Move up diagonally right on very small holds and enter the crack (nut runner). Jam up this to a chockstone runner and then lay back around the slight overhang. Continue up the crack to the col behind Terray's Tower. An escape to the right is possible here.
(7) 30m (15). Move easily down and to the right for 5m. Climb the strenuous narrow chimney to a small nut runner. Move up right to a small stance and bollard runner. Then left into the crack (loose holds). Jam up this to the overhang (piton runner). Jam past this and move left across the lip. Jam and chimney up the line, around the overhang to the top. Nut belay on big ledge.
(8) 26m (11). From the right end of the ledge move up the obvious ramp to the left and then along the obvious easy traverse back to the right. Up a step to a good ledge and bad balays.
(9) 36m (16). Very serious lead with no runners and poor belays. Move straight up above the belay quite easily, then straight up very delicately (crux) to a psychological belay on a small bush
(10) 36m (12). No runners. Climb straight up for 8m then traverse right for 5m to a break in the wall above. Climb up this on sloping holds, then more easily on to a large grassy terrace and poor bollard belay. Scramble up wall behind to top.
First ascent C. Baxter, C. Dewhirst P, Stranger, J. Veasey 12th February 1968.
Note: In 1972 a VCC party cut pitch (9) down to approximately 18m by extending pitch (8) to a good ledge. Protection was reckoned to be available (pitons, bongs, small wires) and the pitch no harder than the rest of the climb (Grade 14).</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="300m" name="Waterloo Road Direct"
number=""
stars="**">A more direct and obvious finish to Waterloo Road. It continues the line on the wall to the left of Terray's Tower Col.
(1)-(5) As for Waterloo Road.
(6) 15m Climb the wide crack in the left-hand corner to a large pinnacle. Belay on good ledge.
(7) 39m Continue straight up the line and belay on a large grassy ledge.
(8) 39m Follow the line straight up moving left on to a ledge at the start of left-curving crack. Belay.
(9) 45m Follow the curving crack to a large green ledge then another 50ft straight up the wall to top.
First ascent R. Pauligk, P. Canning. Alt. leads 30 Jan 1972.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="150m" name="Napoleon" number=""
stars="">On the Waterloo Road side of Terray's Tower a number of cracks can be seen diverging right from Waterloo Road and running up to the top of the tower. "Napoleon" is the largest and furthest right of these.
(1) 36m As for Waterloo Road.
(2) 12m Climb up and traverse right under large block. Belay on large ledge level with the top of block.
(3) 18m Climb wall and belay in base of chimney (cave).
(4) 33m Climb chimney and belay under roof.
(5) 36m Traverse right, climb wall and belay beneath small overhang.
(6) 18m Step right, climb juggy wall to top. Belay on block on top of tower.
First ascent P. Canning, A. Richardson, 1972.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="160m" name="The Ninth of January"
stars="**">A short hard section on a route which is mostly 16. This climb follows the obvious flake on the face until it traverses on to the arete. It starts at a R-tending crack in the gully R of Terrays Tower.
1) 40 m Up crack for 15 m. Traverse 6 m L then up to below flake. Semi-HB.
2) 25 m (crux) Up f lake and over bulge. Leave flake and traverse 7 m L. Up and back R.
3) 40 m Over to arete and up to bushy platform.
4) 55 m L and up front of tower. Up bottomless chimney.
5) 10 m Abseil into gully to join Fleur-de-lis. Peter Steane, Garn Cooper (alt) 27-2-86
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="210m" name="Fleur-de-lis" number=""
stars="*"> The route is on the north side of Terray's Tower, somewhere in the vicinity of the first section of the North East Passage. Start: In the second gully left of the Tahune Face are two chimneys. The climb starts at the foot of the left one.
(1) 33m (Crux). Climb the chimney to where it starts to overhang. Traverse out along the left wall and make an awkward step around into the thin crack on the left. Jam up the crack to a small stance and spike belay.
(2) 24m Continue up crack for a few more feet and traverse delicately across the wall on the right into the chimney. Bridge up this to a good ledge and nut belay.
(3) 34m Traverse left over very loose blocks then up into the next line to the left. Climb up right on appalling rock to the arete. Piton belay here on the good ledge among the blocks.
(4) 34m Move up diagonally left into the chimney. Follow this around the huge chockstones to a ledge on the right. Swing across the line and pull up the thin crack on the left wall on to a bushy ledge. Move up a series of small corners a little to the left and past a small spike runner and up to a small stance and sturdy bushes for a belay slightly on the right.
(5) 24m Traverse 3m left, then up the superb wall on small sound holds to a big bushy ledge below the final section of Terray's Tower.
(6) 21m Move easily to the right along the bushy ledge to the foot of a prominent chimney.
(7) 30m Follow the chimney up past the huge chockstones and where it overhangs to the right, move onto the right wall (nut runner). Move up and finish the chimney over chockstone, and exit on the right.
(8) 12m Straight up to the col behind Terray's Tower. Traverse down to the right into the gully for the scramble of several hundred feet which leads to the top.
First ascent C. Baxter, J. Fahey 15th Feb. 1968.
Alternative pitch 1 (Grade 13). Climb completely in the fine crack on the left wall of the chimney, more enjoyable than the gully.
First ascent P. Jacobs, P. Treby. 1972.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="300m" name="North-east Passage"
number=""
stars="">The route description given below, taken from the late Tahune log, is vague but of considerable historic interest. Old pitons found in the upper reaches of "Waterloo Road Direct" in later years verify the ascent up the East Face. It was a remarkable effort considering the equipment of the times.
General Description: To the north of huge chockstone in the second gully south of the col between Epaullette Ridge and the Tahune Face-the start is here. The chockstone is a prominent feature. The gully is usually wet. Climb up the right-hand side of the chockstone on an enormous 'curved flake'; then through a 'cave' formed by the chockstone and up on to the top of the flake. Then traverse (from quite high up) across to Terray's Tower. Climb to the summit of the Tower, at one stage using a crack below and to the left of the roofs. From the top of tower climb up face (East Face). Pitches are as follows:
(1) 18m One tricky move.
(2) 24m Easy, but rock rotten. Through the 'cave'.
(3) 12m Bear left from the cave and on to a wide terrace.
(4) Traverse (level) southwards around buttress above chockstone, into subsidiary gully.
(5) Continue traverse (level). Tricky.
(6) 30m Straight up north side of Terray's Tower. Wet.
(7) 24m Continue up to col behind Terray's Tower; involves a layback.
(8) 12m From col, move right, and up to belay stance.
(9) 36m Climb block at right-hand end. Traverse left to face.
(10) 27m Straight up to a good stance.
(11) 18m The crux. Named 'F.B. Pitch'. Description - Neolithic belay. Continue up crack.
(12) 30m Traverse left across face, then up.
(13) To summit plateau.
FA R. Lidstone, P. Sands. Easter 1962.
(The climb was started in the afternoon, so a bivouac was necessary after pitch 9.)</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Tahune Face</text>
<climb extra="" grade="18"
length="?m" name="Unnamed Corner Left of Thierry le Fronde"
stars="">1) As for TF.
2) (16/17) Diagonally up L to foot of corner (sometimes wet) and up it to niche.
3) Exit L and climb crack and flake to grassy terrace.
4) (17/18) Up L to roof-crack (#4 SLCD). Up and over on R. Veer up
L. Scott 92
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="150m" name="Tierry le Fronde"
number=""
stars="**">The left arete of the Tahune Face offers this superb and improbable looking climb with its bristling overhangs.
Start: Scramble up for approximately 200ft in the first gully below and left of the Tahune Face, move left on to the top of a buttress below the face and beneath an obvious crack. Belay here.
1) 30m Climb the wall to the start of a crack, continue up this to a belay on a loose lodge overlooking the gully between Terrav's Tower and the Tahune Face.
2) 24m Move around left, then straight up the arete to a very small stance. Continue straight up the crack for another 12m to a small ledge and a spike belay.
3) 27m A Sustained pitch. Follow the line upward to a belay on the arete adjacent to an obvious traverse left.
4) 27m Traverse left with difficulty for 6m then move directly up an easier series of walls for 15m to a good horizontal ledge. Move 6m right along ledge round nose to belay in comer, directly below line through rooves
5) 29m Climb up through the series of rooves to the Summit
FA P. Stranger. C. Dewhirst, Alt. leads 15.2.68.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="45m"
name="Tierry le Fronde Direct Start" number=""
stars="*">Alternative start: Climb the rock buttress immediately below the first pitch. A good 150ft pitch which is better than the gully start.
FA Dec 1975</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="25m"
name="Tierry le Fronde Direct Variant"
stars="*">4a) 25m Puts some technical climbing and position into the route and avoids the two traverses. Up overhang on arete and wall above.
Mike Law, Chris Baxter 3-3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="65m"
name="Tierry le Frond Alternative Start"
stars="">From the very lowest point on buttress below TF walk 10-15m R up scree slope past overhangs to prominent, brown, mossy ledge. Belay here.
1) 40m (crux) Up L (no pro) to L side of roof at 5m (small SLCD under roof). Good moves past L side of roof to easy ground L of grassy slope. Tend L, heading for base of beautiful, smooth, slightly overhanging 5m wall split by vertical crack. Climb this (crux at top) to easy steps which lead to large ledge.
2) 25m (10) Step R on to arete and follow it tending L to top of buttress. From here walk 20m across top of buttress to start of TF.
Dayle Gilliatt, Phil Dolan 15-2-89
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="97m" name="Cold-steel Dawn"
stars="">Improbable at the grade. Good climb with impressive situations and atmosphere. Climbs roofs and corners on L side of Tahune Face, and joins TF at start of pitch four. From start of TF solo small pinnacle to grassy ledge 10m above grassy terraces.
1) 42m (18) Up TF for 10m, then R line, passing L end of roof, to corner below overhang. Steeply R round arete, and up R to small V-slot below roof.
2) 35m (18) Step R on to wall. Up corner to next roof. Traverse L below roof (rope drag), and step round arete. Up to ledge. Up thin hand-crack to ledge at foot of L-leading ramp.
3) 20m Easily up ramp to TF.
Doug Fife, Peter Steane (alt) 1-93
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="165m" name="Ground Rush"
stars="">The first route entirely on the Tahune face proper. Finishes up the big corner through the rooves that cap the face.
Start: Climb the first two pitches (77m) of Cold-Steel Dawn.
1) 20m Traverse right a few metres and climb loose line to belay at roof just left and below main corner through rooves. You may find a fixed hex.The next two pitches involve 30 metres of climbing with a net gain of two or three verticle metres and about five horizontal metres. On future ascents it might be better to break out half way up pitch 1 to join the crux of pitch 2, thus eliminating the down-climb.
2) 20m The Colinstoisser Traverse. Traverse 4m right and place some runners. Climb down about 6m below choss. Diagonally up right on small face holds to horizontal (crux). Traverse right and go up to stance under roof at beginning of leftwards traverse.
3) 8m Traverse airily left to foot of corner.
4) 40m Up the corner for a few metres, then traverse right to ledge on nose. Up face and corner to top.
FA Pete Steane, Colin Moorhead (alt) 11/1/97
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="120m" name="Deceptive Gully"
number=""
stars="">Start: There is a large 100ft+ high block forming the base of the Tahune Face, directly below the roofs. Locate a shallow gully running up the southern end of this block (see Figure 2). Beware loose rocks.
(1) 48m Up the shallow gully.
(2) Scramble and walk to the right (north) over the top of the block to its northern end.
(3) 15m Ascend the wide chimney (gully) running up the right hand side of the Tahune Face, Belay in small alcove.
(4) 12m? From alcove bridge upwards for a few feet, climb wall on right to a small nose. Swing leftwards around this and belay above. Alternatively keep up strenuous wet crack from alcove.
(5) Continue up past chockatones.
(6) Finish up neat wall on right to emerge on a broad platform abutting tile northern edge of the Tahune Face.
FA J. Fairhall, M. Douglas 1962.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="120m"
name="Deceptive Gully Direct Start" number=""
stars="">Leads from the foot of the cliff directly to pitch 3 of original route.
FA V. Kennedy, P. Stranger 1968.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="80m" name="Eco-facist"
stars="">Arete, corner R of DG.
1) 35m (crux) Up from 3m R of arete (near small King Billy pine), then L to arete. Arete until 3m below roofs, then traverse R 8m to small, sloping ledge, then up. Traversing in from DG would make grade about 15.
Peter Steane, Roxanne Wells (alt) 23-1-95
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="130m" name="Shame of the Warrior"
stars="">Takes the black chimney visible from Tahune Hut.
1) 18 m (18) Up obvious crack to two bulges. Semi-HB at second bulge.
2) 18 m (18) L under overhang. Up 12 m. R to large ledge.
3) 16m (18) Up chossy chimney to black hole. No 4 Friend belay.
4) 40 m (14) Out R then diagonally L and up (good holds) to 30 m. R to ledge.
5) 35 m (16) Up crack as it fades. Tend L to grassy ledge (little protection).
Peter Hairsine, Richard Walton 27-12-87 On the same trip it is believed Hairsine and Walton may have climbed something else further R of SW but it doesn't appear to have been recorded.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="27m" name="Inspector Clouseau"
stars="">On first main buttress 80-100m E of N Col. Start L of vegetated cracks forming a V, directly below clean, R-facing corner. Up to short, clean, R-facing corner on L of overhangs. Up and step L to arete.
Michael Murphy, Mark Poustie 2-1-91
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="45m" name="Pleasant Dreams"
number=""
stars="**">About 150 metres left of the North Col, viewed from the track up from Lake Tahune and slightly above the level of the Col is a lovely clean little face. To reach it, climb up the "new" walking track to the wooden signpost ("Summit-Lake Tahune") where the track steepens considerably. The start is about 25 metres toward the Col.
1) 45m. Up easily for 30 metres to an obvious one metre roof. Pass it on the left (crux). No runners after overhang.
Kim Robinson, Phil Robinson 7-2-98</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="55m" name="Robinsons Ramble"
number=""
stars="">From the wooden signpost (approx 150-200 metres from the North Col) where the walking track steepens up to the Cap itself, walk up the track toward the summit for approx. 150 metres. There is a huge hanging Slab on the left with a short black wall under it.
1) 30m (10) Up the black wall for about 8 metres to the horizontal crack under the slab. (Straight up could be grade 25-ish?) Traverse left 15 metres across a rocky couloir to a ledge on the arete and belay around the corner.
2) 25m (15) Up ridge to a short steep crack(crux).
Km Robinson, Phil Robinson alt. leads 7-2-98</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="12m"
name="25kg Of Pain For 25 Seconds Of Pleasure" number=""
stars="">Overhanging rock a few metres above wooden signpost ("Summit-Lake Tahune"), approx. 25 metres left of ''Pleasant Dreams". The climb eases after the first 7-8 metres.
1) 12m Up to the finger ledge, heel hook and go for it. Only one runner.
Kim Robinson 7-2-98
</climb><text
class="heading3">North-West Wall
</text>
<text
class="text">A largely unexplored complex of faces, towers and buttresses. It has a sunny aspect. To reach the wall, go over the North Col and drop down towards Lake Gwendolen. Refer to figure 4.
</text>
<image
src="northwestwall.png" width="400"/><climb extra="" grade="17"
length="45m" name="Squeaky" number=""
stars="*">Head off from the North Col to '' La Grande pump". Before rounding the nose of a buttress to reach the ''Pump'' and ''Honeysuckle Divine'' there is a crack a few metres left of the nose. The crack faces the North Col and peters out after about 25 metres.
1) 25m Up crack which is much steeper and more sustained than it looks. Some holds are hollow sounding. Good value.
2) 20m Easier ground to the top.
FA Alan Williams, Vincent Day 6-2-98</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="33m" name="Honeysuckle Divine"
number=""
stars="">Start: From the top of the North Col cliff is broken on west side by corner with blank face prominent. Wall on left of blank face is split by jagged crack which breaks left tit 15 metres.
Climb crack for 15 metres, move left (not easy) and climb continuation of crack which is overhanging and becomes off-width near the top.
First ascent J. Nelson, J. Grelis, 29 Dec 1977.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="The Pawn of Doom"
stars="">The flake 2m right of corner of Honeysuckle Divine. At rooflet at 10m head diagonally up left to join right-trending crack.
FA Colin Moorhead, Pete Steane 10/1/97
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="60m" name="La Grande Pump"
stars="***">A classic of classics. Both pitches are 21. Start R of HD and L of the big roof which forms the L arete of an impressive overhanging corner.
1) 35 m Bold and sparsely protected. Up R to vague curving flake and undercut arete. Up to HB.
2) 25 m Up R of arete to white wall. Up this (exposed, spaced protection) to rest. L round arete and up (easier).
Mike Law, Chris Baxter 4-3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="48m" name="The Enlightenment"
stars="">The grade takes into account the wad-factor. It's the prominent diagonal line on the West-facing buttress above La Grande Pump. Start: Scramble/solo up right of LGP past the prominent left-leading arete undercut by the big overhung corner. The route takes the left-leading line a couple of metres right of the arete.
1) 48m Step down and left from the belay, then up and follow line.
FA Pete Steane, Colin Moorhead 10/1/97
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="8" length="210m"
name="Gwendolen Buttress (Ridge)" number=""
stars="">The first major buttress on the eastern end of the north-west wall (Fig 4). A long climb of nine pitches, and well broken with ledges and terraces. The route is separated from the Pillar Face by a deep couloir. It gives an excellent view of this face. About half-way up the buttress there is a large gendarme. This should be turned on the right. It has also been turned on the left (grade 13). The climb finishes on top of the steep, square shaped out¬crop prominent from the North Col. The penultimate pitch is on a large prominent slab above arid to the right of the main spine of the buttress.
First ascent D. Cox, P. Sands, R. Hosking, Easter 1962.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="50m" name="Frog" number=""
stars="">Halfway along the north face of Gwendolen buttress is a faint suggestion of a crack line
1) 25m (16) Straight up the shallow crack system to a platform with a large horizontal crack (#3,#4 friend useful here).
2) 25m (16) Continue directly up bridging up a short overhanging corner then steeply up to flatten out to a platform just left of the vegetation
David Rogers, Andrew Strickland 29-12-87</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="85m" name="Quatre-Vingt Huit (88)"
number=""
stars="">The climb begins at a slightly protruding buttress 20m right of the large black gully crack about a third of the way across the N.E. Face from the North Col. A short buttress leads up to the start. There is a vegetated black crack on ?
1) 40m (16) Follow the front of the buttress for 20m until horizontal crack with vegetation is reached. Step right and finish the pitch laying back off the crack on the right of the front of the buttress. Walk up the steep ramp to belay beneath the overhanging corner.
2) 45m (16) Step right into the corner and bridge up for 10m to a vegetated ledge. ("bloody great pitch"). Move left and finish up the front of the buttress leading to the top.
David Rogers, Andrew Strickland (31-12-87)</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="240m" name="Pillar Face" number=""
stars="">A complex face with many alternatives. (See Figure 4)
Start: The gap between the lowest sweep of the Gwendolen Buttress and the base of the Pillar Face forms a rocky ravine. (Further right is Cox's Castle.) The climb commenced from the ravine not far to the left of the "Castle".
Description: First 30m of face forms a noticeable convex bulge (crux). Climb for 15m, then traverse horizontally across bulge to the left, finally moving up again to a broad sloping platform at the top of the bulge (conspicuous hook-shaped patch of grass on right-hand edge).
From platform continue vertically upwards for around 150m to the overhanging blocks barricading exit. A left-hand swerve in the line of ascent was made when a line of weakness through exit blocks was located.
Note: Halfway up face is a peculiar line of pillars on a large platform.
First ascent D Cox, M. Douglas, 1962 </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Pillar Face Alternative 1"
number=""
stars="">Across lowest platform on Gwendolen Ridge (buttress) On edge of drop into ravine leading down to Cox's Castle. Straight up,
C (B) Rathbone, P. Robinson, 1977</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Pillar Face Alternative 2"
number=""
stars="">10m left of 1977 start. Moves right on second pitch to join 1977 route then loses it again after comer pitch. Hard exit on right-hand side of Pillar Ledge (loose rock).
G. Kowalik, K. Mansfield, 1978
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="85m" name="The Nargun"
stars="">Start just L of scoop on front (N) side of Coxs Castle, about 10m uphill from Electra. Possibly cairned. Descend as for Electra.
1) 50m (crux) Steep, intermittent, curving cracks in orange rock (take R line if two fit this description) for about 25m. Easily L on ledges for 3m, then up easily (spaced pro), and up and R to L-leaning corner.
2) 35m Easy corner to large ledge. Walk to R end. Up (spaced pro).
Peter Steane, Doug Fife (alt) 14-3-94
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="100m" name="Electra" number=""
stars="">Excellent rock and bulk pro. Find lowest major roofs on front (N) side of Coxs Castle. Just L of roof is attractive corner. Possibly cairned. To descend, solo down back of Coxs Castle for 15m to highest point of terrace behind. Sidle R to top of the Arches (the 50m wall below Solomons Sanctuary) and descend by 50m abseil.
1) 40m Line to good ledge.
2) 60m (Easy, with alternatives possible.) L up juggy crack for 4m or so. Wander up towards big corner high above. Up corner to steep section with slightly schisty rock. R for 3m, then up easily. Finish up R-facing croner.
FA Doug Fife, Peter Steane (alt) 22-1-92
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="180m" name="Solomons Sanctuary"
number=""
stars="">A route behind the right-hand (west) corner of the Pillar Face, in a chasm-like gully.
From the Tahune Log Book:
"On southern side of North Col 50m on right-hand (far) side of Cox's Castle. Climb main wall and reach wide grassy terrace leading into Solomon's Sanctuary - a deep canyon cutting right into side of mountain. Four pitches on wall progressively harder, culminating in an overhanging layback crack for which pegs were necessary. Canyon Creek followed up under overhanging walls for several hundred feet to climb up 80ft waterfall and a large chockstone. Final pitch involves a traverse around the northern wall, which comes out on edge of summit plateau."
First ascent P. Sands, D. Cox, R. Hosking. Easter 1962. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="45m" name="Aesop's Fable" number=""
stars="">Line beginning near lowest point of clean, 40m high N facing wall L of large chimney-gull with chockstone (and below larger walls) about 20m above the "bath" in Solomons Sanctuary. Start below large, hanging flake high on wall. Up, then L edge of flake. Up R to L end of roof, then L and up to grassy ledge. Belay anchors in short crack 5m up next wall.
Peter Steane, Roxanne Wells 24-1-95
</climb>
<text
class="text">
There is a natural bathtub in the creek which flows from Solomons Sanctuary, ideal for hot, sunny days. Beside this is a 45 m abseil which leads to the base of a 50 m white slabby wall. Above this is a terrace beneath some bigger walls and buttresses. The wall is 100 m long and has some thin lines. It is distinguished by L-slanting arches. The following climbs are on this wall.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="Deviant Imagination"
stars="*">Follows L-most weakness on wall, R of arch at L end. Near top move R to finish as for FS.
Maureen Gallagher, Russell Chudleigh 3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="For Susan"
stars="**">
The prominent crack R of Dl with the bushes low down and the overhang on the R at 3 m.
Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher 6-3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="50m" name="(Unnamed 1)"
stars="**">Another gem on superb white quartz. Line passing L end of overhang of main arch.
Russell Chudleigh, Maureen Gallagher 3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="50m" name="(Unnamed 2)"
stars="*">Spaced protection. Up wall a few m R of previous route, climbing overhang at weakness towards its L end. Finish up line directly above.
Mike Law, Russell Chudleigh 6-3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="45m" name="(Unnamed 3)"
stars="*">Between R end of R arch and waterfalls is an overhang low down. Start just L of this. Climb up, veering slightly L.
Russell Chudleigh, Maureen Gallagher 3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="45m" name="Fox 'n' Socks" number=""
stars="">Start at cairn immediately R of previous route. Veer up R on overhanging arete, then face to ledge. Face-crack to next ledge. Corner.
Maureen Gallagher, Russell Chudleigh 3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="160m" name="Culture Shock"
stars="">This and the next climb are on the Shining Wall, the buttress of highly polished rock just R of the Arches. The L end has two prominent L-slanting lines. R of here the foot of the cliff is undercut. Just R is a small patch of scree. These two climbs start here. Solo up L to good ledge. Line heads up L below roof split by off-width. Superb, exposed climbing on lovely, orange rock.
1) 45m From L end of ledge, climb up for 10m. Now up L towards small, grey ramp at L end of huge, orange roof. Thin on lip of slab about 6m below and just left of off-width, with undercut wall below. Up and L towards grey ramp. From start of this, drop below it and climb L on juggy wall to arete. Up to small alcove.
2) 40m Take R alternative, up bulge. Continue on schisty but sound rock to good ledge below two grooves.
3) 30m Scary. Up L groove on poor rock and minimal pro, heading L to short, R-arching flake. Rock and pro improve greatly towards end of flake (there is only about 5m of really loose rock.) Up. Step L just above flake.
4) 45m Up easily to big grassy ledge. Up flake-cracks on L.
Peter Steane, Doug Fife (alt) 16-2-92
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="130m" name="Strange Attractor"
stars="">Well protected crux amid mostly sparsely protected climbing. Big juggy-looking corner above start of CS.
1) 45m Easy climbing on excellent, sparsely protected rock towards corner.
2) 40m Fairly straightforward climbing up corner to about 7m below roof.
3) 45m Croner and roof. Corner. Step R and head up easier-angled rock to small tree.
Doug Fife, Peter Steane (var) 21-1-92
</climb>
<text
class="text">On the N side of the lake is a cliffline, with the most obvious feature being the laid-back expanse of Surf Slab which is approached well down to the L.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="78m" name="Teetering Tower Ridge"
number=""
stars="**">From North Col, one can view a tower of rock, narrow at its base, on the ridge top right of Lake Gwendolen. The climb runs up the steep ridge leading to the tower then up the tower itself. An entertaining little climb with good situations.
Start: Descend from the North Col toward Lake Gwendolen. Lower down, the tower can be seen on the ridge immediately left of Surf Slab. Best approach is to climb the first pitch of Surf Slab (30m) then scramble horizontally left to foot of ridge.
(1) 42m Climb left-hand side of ridge for 5m, traverse right 3m then up to thin crack. Climb crack and slab above to belay on grassy terrace. (One can scramble off here.)
(2) 9m Traverse horizontally right to foot of corner.
(3) 27m Climb open-book corner (crux, also loose rock) and traverse right passing keyhole to wall overlooking Surf Slab. Climb crack on wall to top of tower.
First ascent M. Steane, P. Robinson, J. Burgess. 4 March 1979.
Note: Either climb or abseil down low side of tower (8m). The tower has previously been climbed from this low side (easy). </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="69m" name="Surf Slab" number=""
stars="**">Brilliantly white and in waves. On the northern side of Gwendolen Cirque well below the Lion's Head. There is a prominent bulging pillar among the first buttresses toward the lake. The slab lies below and on the Cap side of this. It is in two sections broken at 2/5 height by a grassy terrace. The lower section is easier. A cairn (1974) marks the start in the centre of the slab. Excellent climbing on small secure holds in great shiny white rock.
Climb straight above the cairn veering in places to the grassy terrace above the second slab and walk off. Towards the top of the second slab is a slight flake crack. Up thin crack (crux).
First ascent I. Brown, M. Hutton (solo). 1974.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="?m"
name="Board Shorts, Bored Shorts"
stars="">Little is known about this route, but it appears to be at least as good as SS. Start in the middle of the foot of the slab climbed by SS. Take a direct line slab followed by a steeper section.
Maureen Gallagher, Russell Chudleigh 3-84
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17/18" length="30m"
name="Breakfast of Champions" number=""
stars="*">Magnificently overhanging. More awkward than technical. Sustained.
Start: The obvious big overhanging line under the nose of the Lions Head, seen clearly when approaching the North Col from Tahune. Scramble up from the North Col across and up into the big cave. Good nut belay on left, out of stonefall line.
(1) 30m Up to the big triangular block. Chimney out under it and up on to loose blocks. Bridge up to obvious traverse right. Across on shattered rock then hand traverse line to sharp nose. Up the line to top. (Double rope useful.)
First ascent I. Brown, P. Blunt. 22 Feb 1979.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="11" length="40m" name="Cyrano"
stars="">Slab split by crack 50m N of N Col. Traverse R above this on slabby ledges. Up seam through bulge and overlap. Traverse R to arete. Up corner to Lions Head.
David Moten, Chris Holley 8-2-94
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">The Eastern Arm</text><image
src="EasternArm.png" width=""/><text
class="heading3">Sharlands Peak</text>
<text
class="text">The peak can be divided into two features consisting of huge 150m high pillars. From south to north these are Nicoles Needle and the Northern Pillar (Figure 5). Some magnificent though difficult routes are still waiting here.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="10" length="180m" name="Northern Staircase"
number=""
stars="">On the north face of the Northern Pillar of Sharlands Peak.
Start: The track from Barron Pass to Lake Tahune passes beneath a small gully lying between the Northern Pillar of Sharland's Peak and the small subsidiary tower adjacent to the pillar on the northern side. Locate this gully and scramble to it from the track.
(1) 30m Up slabby face on left of gully veering into gully at chockstone. Emerge on large platform (col).
(2) 30m Easy walk-scramble right to crack with chockstone on wall above.
(3) 21m Climb short wall then up over prominent chock stone (mentioned above) to small platform.
(4) 30m Straight up crest to top of minor pinnacle.
(5) 15m Step across gap between pinnacle and false summit of Northern Pillar. Climb to summit.
(6) 30m Walk and scramble towards final tower of Northern Pillar.
(7) 30m Climb face of final tower.
(Easy scrambling descent route down back of Sharlands Peak.)
First ascent M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, A. Keller, 26 Dee 1967 (varied leads)
Alternative Pitches:
(2) 18m (13) Instead of original walk pitch, climb wall on right via crack to large ledge.
(3) 21m (14) Up right wall via left trending crack. Rejoins normal route on ledge above chockstone.
First ascent R. Mansfield, G. Kowalik, 1979</climb>
<text
class="heading3">White Needle - Philps Peak Area</text>
<text
class="text">The two outstanding features here are the high Gendarme Ridge and Scimitar Spur. The latter is approximately 450m in length and falls from the summit of Philp's Peak in a S.W. direction toward the Livingstone Valley (see Fig 5). It involves climbing of all grades. There are some very substantial cliffs falling away on its N.E. side. About halfway up the spur on this side there is a large (50m) gendarme called the Kriss. The best way of reaching the spur is to go over the summit of the White Needle (described below) and then to drop down towards the valley in the vicinity of the "Eagle's Beak". It can also be reached by going around the western base of the White Needle from the Barron Pass. However this involves a tedious scrub bash and is relatively slow. On the other hand, there is no exposure. The high route is mildly exposed.
</text>
<image
src="gendarmeRidge.png" width=""/><climb extra="" grade="10"
length="" name="The Gendarme Ridge" number=""
stars="**">An enjoyable and straightforward high level traverse, the ridge being at about 4000 feet. Refer to Figs 5 and 6.
White Needle (6)
From Barron Pass scramble up through scrub to a steep wall with an overhang above it. Continue right of this through a gap and climb short wall on left to gain ridge. Straight up ridge for three ropelengths leads to a knife-edge ridge (4) and summit of White Needle. Alternatively, keeping left of the ridge from Barron Pass, there is a scrub clutching scramble to the top. There is said to be a nice rock climb up the western side of the White Needle, done by J. Peterson and B. Eklund, probably in 1961.
Eagle's Beak 12m (6)
The foot of this gendarme is reached by a walk over some low towers of no consequence from the White Needle. The hooked summit of the Eagle's Beak is clearly visible from the northern end of Lake Vera.
Pikehead 30m (8)
After the Eagle's Beak, several gendarmes of lesser interest are climbed. These are followed by a relatively large tower, pikehead. There is an unclimbed spur, Pikestaff Spur, dropping away to the west of this tower. There are two prominent gendarmes on this spur.
Shark's Teeth
Three small towers with overhanging summits. Easy.
Witch's Thumb 18m (8)
A high gendarme providing a fine climb on small holds. The west face falls away for 30m.
Witch's Finger 18m (8)
A spectacular piece of rock also clearly visible from Vera. Its northern end overhangs in a grotesque curve. Ascend it by climbing the southern side. The west face is 50m plus.
Little Federation 18m (10)
After the "Finger" there are several small steps; then the 'Little Federation' which is the second last tower of the ridge and situated on an eastern curve in the Gendarme Ridge. The south face drops away vertically for 60m. Ascend it via the western corner. Abseil off summit.
Last Tower
Easily climbed on its S.W. side. Then scramble up to summit of Philp's Peak.
First traverse P. Sands and M. Douglas. 7 Jan 1966.
Time from Barron Pass to Philp's Peak: about six hours. The return trip can be made in a little more than one hour by using the western slopes below the gendarmes, then cutting up over the summit of White Needle.</climb>
<image
src="scimitarspur.png" width="400"/><climb extra="" grade="12"
length="500m" name="Scimitar Spur" number=""
stars="*">Location: Philp's Peak. The main buttress running from summit of Philp's Peak towards Livingstone Valley in south westerly direction. (Refer Fig 5)
Access: From Barron Pass, over summit of White Needle; then drop down into valley from a point near the Eagle's Beak. Definite identification of the spur can be made by distinguishing the "Kriss" - a 50m gendarme on the north side of the spur - the Kriss is often difficult to pick up as its outline seems to camouflage itself in the mass of the spur behind it.
(1) Attempt at direct line up crest of first step failed after 30m. (1967).
(2) Up scrubby lead on north-west side of first step - this lead (30m) is fairly prominent and is just up from crest of the step. Then up vertical scrubby chimney just to the right. (30m) Continue up gully until top of first step of spur is reached.
(3) Scramble and climb for about 10m (grade 6-8), crossing conspicuous semi-circular col on the way. Arrive at slab below central rib of spur.
(4) Traverse across slab and around corner to left. (30m)
(5) Up wall above (exposed) to gain crest of spur (30m). Nut runner.
(6) Continue up crest for 30m to the head of the rib.
(7) Scramble for a few rope lengths until halted by a barrier of walls. The wall appears to be difficult but can in fact be climbed easily (24m).
(8) Scramble to next wall (24m). This wall can be avoided by walking around to right.
(9) Final 60m overhanging wall to left of true line of spur was not climbed. Instead scrambled for 100m up gully to end climb.
First ascent M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, A. Keller. Dee 25 1967. (Once on the spur, there is no simple escape.)</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="45m" name="The Kriss" number="" stars="">Climbed by J. Ewbank, A. Keller from the col between it and the N.E. walls of Scimitar Spur. (Straightforward.)
</climb>
</guide>
|