<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>
<text class="heading1"
new="false">Other Western Crags</text>
<text class="text"
new="false">This section contains information about other crags in the West and South West of Tasmania for which we do not have full guides for.</text>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Coronation Peak</text>
<text
class="text"
new="false">Coronation Peak has a decent sized quartize cliff on its north face. The cliff splitting line was climbed in the 90s at about grade 16. You can climb it easily in a day from the shore of Lake Pedder, approached by kayak.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Eldon Bluff</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Eldon Bluff has long attracted the eye of climbers. Clearly visible from many peaks in the west, it was reputed for years to have the highest dolerite cliffs in Tasmania. The trouble is it is in the middle of bloody nowhere, miles from the nearest road head and with no access tracks through the thick, nearly impenetrable scrub. The CCT tried to reach the mountain in 1967 but it wasn't till 1970 that a group led by Tim Walkden-Brown managed to get to the main crag above Lake Ewart. They climbed "The Splinter" (10) before retreating back via the Collingwood River. The only other recorded climbing trip seems to have been an epic by Lucas Trihey and Bob McMahon in February 2000 when they managed to climb “Terra Incognita” (250m, 17) in seven pitches (one bivi), on the NE face . They took a boat across Lake Burbury near Queenstown on the Lyell Highway, travelled up the King River to the junction of the South Eldon and Eldon Rivers and then bush-bashed for four days in typical west coast weather via Eldon Peak (1439m) to the crag. They did find excellent rock but also proved it wasn’t as high as they had hoped! For further details and a map (but not a description of the climb unfortunately), check out Rock 35 or Australian Geographic 57.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Franklin River</text><text
class="text"
new="false">The lower section of the Franklin River passes through some very nice limestone, that provides great deep water soloing if you are passing by in a raft. High up in the Elliot Range, on the right as you go down the river is a large limestone cliff called Cromleigh Cliff. As far as I know it hasn't been climbed, due to the massive epic involved in getting there.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Lion Rock</text><text class="text"
new="false">The track from Cockle Creek comes out in South Cape Bay by a large intrusion of dolerite, Lion Rock. The CCT mounted an expedition led by Tom Terry to climb it in 1969 and reached the Rock by wading across the narrow channel at low tide. The "route" went straight up the seaward face (50m) on rotten rock and descent was by a very risky abseil.</text>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Lake St Clair Area</text>
<text
class="text"
new="false">There are quite a lot of cliffs around the Lake St Clair end of the overland track besides Mt Geryon. The huge cliff on Cathedral Mt has at least one route - a grade 16 route straight up the middle by John Chapman, which is apparently the only easy way to get on the face which is guarded by large roofs.
</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Ida</text><text class="text"
new="false">Access to Mt Ida, on the eastern shore of Lake St Clair, was originally by boat but future climbers will have to foot slog in due to a change in Park's access policy.</text><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="165m" name="Mount Ida SE Ridge"
new="false" number=""
stars="">This line is the RH (as viewed from Lake St Clair) skyline of the SE rock of Mt Ida. It leads directly to the summit. The LH boundary of the face is a more broken ridge with a prominent pillar on it.
A large step forms the base of the ridge. A protruding thumb of rock about three-quarters of the way up the ridge is a feature prominently visible from the Lake.
Start: at the foot of the step. Cairned.
1) 35m 13. Straight up obvious line (i.e. cracks and grooves) to broad ledge with old dead tree [might may or may not still be there!]. Strenuous mantleshelf after start of this pitch.
2) 35m 3. Over short wall behind ledge and scramble up easy line to foot of good rock.
3) 35m 7. Keep L of good rock to gain broad platform beneath protruding rock thumb (PRT).
4) 40m 12. Up the exit crack/chimney which is gained by a short traverse R from base of PRT.
5) 20m 12. Complete exit chimney and emerge on summit of Mt Ida.
Philip Blake, Mike Douglas, Chris Viney; 21 Jan 1975.
</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Anne</text>
<text class="text"
new="false">So far there are only three routes recorded on Mt Anne, on the south west side. Even though exposed to the weather, this is an obvious starting point because the cliffs are relatively low, (35m). On the 1:25000 map from GR 528450, walk east along the cliffs for about 250m until a light orange wall is reached At the far R end, there is a L facing corner, the start of Cosmic Orange. </text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="35m" name="Cosmic Orange"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Start in the L facing corner. Climb the twin cracks to a little roof and finish up an offwidth and squeeze chimney. Then the easiest line to the top. G. Phillips and J. Morgan, Dec. 1994.</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">Walk a further 50m along the base of the cliff, passing lots of little roofs until you reach the stepped wall of Reptile. Choc Coated starts two thirds of the way up the cliff and is best appraoched by climbing Reptile first.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18MO" length="30m" name="Reptile" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climb and layback until a small roof is reached. Turn this on the L and continue up the steep crack to top (one point of aid used before the large belay ledge was reached). G. Phillips and J. Morgan, Dec. 1994.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Choc Coated" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Stars 5m R of Reptile, in a corner with two cracks. Climb the cleaner LH one, which gets progressively harder towards the top. G. Phillips and J. Morgan, Dec. 1994.</climb><text
class="heading3"
new="false">Mt Anne Shelf Camp Cliffs</text><text class="text"
new="false">This info is from the TUCC newsletter no 9. These routes are at Shlef Camp, on the Eliza Plateau. In general the rock, which is dolerite, is similar to the Pipes except surprisingly more solid and steeper. Its a great place to go and do some wilderness climbing if you're keen; and you've go the sight of the East Face across the valley to scare you senseless.
Large flat rocks provide good campsites and a reasonable view of the crags. Directly above these campsites is a broken 150m high cliff comprising of many 20m walls separated by scrubby terraces. Any long climb here would be discontinuous. Further left (south) are some more compact crags of 40-80m in height offering excellent rock. The major buttress immediately right of the Notch, a steep orange wall, is split by some very impressive crack lines. On in particular looks like an excellent 60m climb in the 20s.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="80m" name="Dismal Failure"
new="false" number=""
stars="">On the buttress left (south) of the notch and around the corner is a slight amphitheatre with broken walls and ledges on the lower half. Our line was based on the prominent 30m hand crack splitting a column at the top of the cliff.
1. 50m Climb the short walls (harder than it looks) to a ledge below the hand crack.
2. Fail to lead the lichenous hand crack. (toproped at about 20/21). Tim & Bel 1996.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Dyslexic Lizard"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The juggy arete 20m uphill of the Shameless Dwarf Catcher. Climb up on jugs, then a crack to an obvious block at 10m. Ignore the crack above and the crack left of this and keep traversing to an easy looking corder that isn't. Tim & Bel 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Shameless Dwarf Catcher"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start on the south facing wall that you walk underneath when ascending to the notch. This climb and DL both finish on the large terrace, and it is possible to walk off. Find an obvious 10m hand crack that starts at ground level, ignore it (even though it looks excellent) and climb the crack immediately left if it to a ledge, then up a steep pillar to a corner. Tim & Bel 1996.</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Field</text>
<text class="text"
new="false">There have been several routes done on the big cliffs of Mt Field West. You can get reasonably close to them on the Florentine Valley logging roads.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="130m" name="Longer Climb"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Starts in the middle of the tallest part of the cliff and takes the very wide chimney like feature to the top.
1. 43m Climb easily up left tending ramp to the line then climb pleasant corner crack to a ledge at the top of the flake.
2. 45m (crux) Continue up corner crack to sloping ledge then climb face above via the amazing sharp flakes and double layaways. Belay in chimney with sloping base high on right.
3. 40m (easy) Climb chimney then scramble up easy ground to the bushy ledge (further cliffs behind). Decent can miraculously be made down the gully to the right.
Marcel and Hamish Jackson (alt), Adele Vincent, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="47m" name="Short Climb" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Clean corner to bottom left of large amphitheatre. Climb corner crack past very loose spike then step around arete to right and continue up ledgey face to the top. A descent gully is present to the left. Hamish Jackson, Adele Vincent, 1996.</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Murchison</text>
<text
class="text"
new="false">Mt Murchison is a big conglomerate peak on the West Coast near Tullah. Some routes have been done there by the Jacksons, but no details are available.</text>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Oakleigh</text>
<text
class="text"
new="false">The big ridge of Mt Oakleigh is reputably a classic alpine jaunt. You can make it easier or harder by avoiding some of the gendarmes. Allow a full day from New Pelion hut.</text><climb
extra="" grade="" length="350m" name="Oakleigh Pinnacle Ridge"
new="false" number=""
stars="">This description is based on "An Ascent of Oakleigh Pinnacle Ridge" by Mike Douglas, CCT Circular 1977.
1. Initial steep 150m buttress done in 8 pitches, a little to the north of the direct line.
2. A short abseil leads to the base of the second obstacle, a 50m pinnacle much the same size as the Buttress Pinnacle on he Organ Pipes. A line of easy cracks and chimneys on the north side lead to an airy summit. The only difficulty was the final move past a very awkward bulging chockstone.
3. Two abseils and a long traverse beneath two minor pinnacles put you on top of the massive tower which is the most prominent feature of the upper section of the ridge. There is an easy route on the back of the tower.
4. Thread your way through uppermost set of pinnacles to the foot of the 40m exit chimney which leads to the summit plateau (the tallest of these pinnacles could probably be climbed via an impressive cleft).
Mike Douglas, Chris Viney, Feb 1977 (with bivy). Reg Williams and John Moore ascended part of the ridge previously. The route can be completed in a day with an early start, and easy escape is possible at several places.</climb><text new="true"></text>
</guide>
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