<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><header access="TODO - access into the park from either end"
acknowledgement="The Mt Geryon section is by Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets. Some route descriptions from Chris Baxters 1984 guide."
history=""
intro="The Cradle Mountain - Lake St Clair National Park is probably the most famous in Tasmania. It is a huge mountainous area full of rugged peaks."
name="Cradle Mountain - Lake St Clair" new="false"
rock="Alpine dolerite, up to 400m high"
sun="Mixed sun and shade"
walk="Half a day to several days bushwalking"></header><gps
new="true"><point code="GER010"
description="Bottom of scree slide above Mt Geryon campsite"
easting="421327" height="0" northing="5357224"
zone="55G"/><point code="GER020"
description="Top of scree slide above Mt Geryon campsite"
easting="421562" height="0" northing="5357356"
zone="55G"/></gps>
<text class="heading2"
new="false">Cradle Mountain</text><text class="text"
new="false">There are several routes that have been done at Cradle Mountain, including some ridge traverses, and a couple of big routes on the back of the mountain (which are written up in Climb Northern Tasmania). There is definite potential for some routes on the quartzite around the lakes as well, and probably also over at Barn Bluff.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Barn Bluff</text><text class="text"
new="false">There has been at least one route done on Barn Bluff.</text>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Oakleigh</text>
<text
class="text"
new="false">The big ridge of Mt Oakleigh is reputably a classic alpine jaunt. You can make it easier or harder by avoiding some of the gendarmes. Allow a full day from New Pelion hut.</text><climb
extra="" grade="" length="350m" name="Oakleigh Pinnacle Ridge"
new="false" number=""
stars="">This description is based on "An Ascent of Oakleigh Pinnacle Ridge" by Mike Douglas, CCT Circular 1977.
1. Initial steep 150m buttress done in 8 pitches, a little to the north of the direct line.
2. A short abseil leads to the base of the second obstacle, a 50m pinnacle much the same size as the Buttress Pinnacle on he Organ Pipes. A line of easy cracks and chimneys on the north side lead to an airy summit. The only difficulty was the final move past a very awkward bulging chockstone.
3. Two abseils and a long traverse beneath two minor pinnacles put you on top of the massive tower which is the most prominent feature of the upper section of the ridge. There is an easy route on the back of the tower.
4. Thread your way through uppermost set of pinnacles to the foot of the 40m exit chimney which leads to the summit plateau (the tallest of these pinnacles could probably be climbed via an impressive cleft).
Mike Douglas, Chris Viney, Feb 1977 (with bivy). Reg Williams and John Moore ascended part of the ridge previously. The route can be completed in a day with an early start, and easy escape is possible at several places.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Geryon</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Intro:
The cliffs of Mt Geryon and The Acropolis provide absolutely exceptional climbing "on the wild side". Many of the routes have had few ascents, so obviously take appropriate precautions - the seriousness of accidents is high, with help a good days walk away. The downside of the climbing is twosome.
Firstly, expect the usual foul weather. Multiple trips before even laying chalk to rock are hardly uncommon (no joke). Secondly, packs full of camping and climbing gear are good "fun".
Described below are the classic traverses - and not to be missed! The north to south direction is the norm, but is has been done the other way, both ways in a day, and even in winter. This is a classic day in the mountains, with nothing too serious to stop competent climbers. The crags were written up in the 1984 issue of Australian Rock and a guidebook was later published by Chris Baxter in 1999. Refer to that guide for full details of all climbs. The route descriptions have been reproduced here, however more detail around access etc is needed. If anyone has high resolution photos (4+ megapixels) of these faces suitable for topos please send them in.</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Access:
The best camping is probably straight up from Geryon campsite at the Pool of Memories (walk to the Geryon campsite, cross the stream, and then follow the scree for about 15 minutes onto the Labyrinth, heading slightly right to the first lake). The views are magic, and it is ideally placed for the North-to-South traverse. Alternately there is a good bivvy cave between Geryon South and the Acropolis.
Geryon Campsite:
To get to the Geryon campsite from Pine Valley hut, start by taking the track to the Acropolis summit. After a bit under half an hour out from Pine Valley hut is a long log bridge over a creek. Just past this there is a fallen tree on the track left with a v-notch cut in to it and a sign indicating the direction to the Acropolis.
Hop over this tree and follow the track that continues into the bush, generally following the same direction as the creek. There is a mixture of track markers along this track: red and white blazes, red tape, yellow tape, orange tape, etc. The track is no longer maintained by Parks, so the original marked path may be blocked by newly fallen trees. Follow your nose and the supplementary markers (or take a GPS).
At times the track is directly beside the creek, while sometimes it skirts around uphill for the creek a fair way. Keep trusting the markers (if you don't lose them) and you will end up at the Geryon campsite, which, as you would expect, shows obvious signs of human habitation. If you lose the track, then apart from back tracking to the last marker and trying to find the track again, your best best may be to follow the sound of the creek.
At the NE end of the campsite a well marked (red tape) track winds up through the foliage to the scree shute below the W face of Mt Geryon. Cairns lead the way from here.</text>
<text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Mt Geryon West Face</text><image new="false"
noPrint="false" number="null." src="geryon2.png"
width=""/>
<climb extra="" grade="" length=""
name="North Peak Normal Route"
stars="">From the Cephissus scree chute traverse N below the cliffs of the South Peak. From near the foot of the Foresight descend a large gully and continue N under the cliffs of the North Peak to a scree gully. From the top of this go S along the level ridge and down to a saddle. Scramble up S to the N summit of the peak.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="307m" name="Damocles" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Obvious line on the SW face of Mt Geryon's North Peak leading to the gap between the North Peak and the turret to the N. Start below a dark corner.
1) 35m Go diagonally R up the R-slanting corner to just below a scree slope
2) 23m Go diagonally L across the scree and L round a large block to below two corners.
3) 33m From the ledge 3 m above, take the L line for 3 m. Go into the R line and follow it to a large ledge at 16 m. Traverse 7 m L and up to a stance.
4) 40m (crux) Climb the line on the R to a ledge at 16 m. Go up L to a large ledge below a sleep wall. Jam the crack in this to a ledge then up and R to a long vegetated corner ledge, below the Sword!
5) 37m Traverse 5 m R to the scrubby line. Climb it for 5 m and move L under a bulge. Go up for 7 m to a vegetated ledge which leads L to a tight chimney which is climbed for 13 m to a large flake on the L
6) 43m The gully to the gap.
7) 36m Head towards the summit, deviating slightly L on a thin flake at about 13 m.
8) 36m Continue up, veering R to a large ledge.
9) 24m To summit (slab).
Rob Taylor, Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr, varied leads, 27 Jan 1968.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="106m" name="Damocles Direct"
new="false" number=""
stars="">1) 38m (crux) Bridge the dark corner to a ledge on the R at 23m. Go up to a large grassy ledge.
2) 40m Scramble up for 7 m. Climb the L crack. Go up ledges to above a corner
3) 28m Climb L of the crack to a large ledge (the fourth belay of Damocles). Climb the corner (up the Sword) and through bushes. Belay in the corner at the R end of a bushy ledge.
4)-8) Climb the crack at the L end of the ledge which is the "tight chimney" on the fifth pitch of Damocles. The rest of this route is more or less as for Damocles.
Clive Parker, Roger Caffin (alt), 23 Feb 1968. Alan and Geoff Gledhill did the first free ascent of pitch one (originally 12, M3), 22 Jan 1969.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="9" length="91m" name="Foresight Normal Route"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">An excellent outing into exciting country. Scramble up the huge gully below the West face of the South Peak and head for a chimney leading to the Foresight/North Peak notch.
1) 25m Crux. Climb the chimney then scramble to the notch.
2) 35m Go up the West side of the Foresight to a step on the skyline overlooking the East face.
3) 30m Exposed but easy climbing on the East side to the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="4"
name="South Spur Normal Route">From the Acropolis-Geryon saddle, follow the skyline ridge moving out over the exposed East face where necessary. Mostly scrambling.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="40m" name="Swiss Guide" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Head up the square corner from the Foresight-South Peak notch. Above the sloping ledge, follow the crack up the corner past two bulges. Ascend the east face for the last 3m.
P.Schwitter, S.Bunton, G.Jordan, Mar 1988.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="182m" name="A Common Thirst"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start on the NW face of the South Peak about 20 m R of the prominent chimney-gully a short way SW of the col between the South Peak and the Foresight; at an easy looking chimney-gully
1) 27m Up R side of chimney. When it steepens go R round the arete and up to the end of an obvious R-leaning diagonal.
2) 25m Scramble up slightly L. Climb the crack in the R wall of the corner. Go towards prominent slabs up R. Traverse R across a bushy ledge and climb a short corner to a large ledge below a slab.
3) 25m Reverse the corner and traverse. Climb the R wall of the obvious corner until forced L to the arete. Go up arêtes and corners lending towards L side of headwall. Good ledge with blocks.
4) 15m Up to next ledge. Step L round the arête and climb the wall to a large ledge at the foot of a grassy ramp.
5) 50m Go along the ramp to the first line. Up the gully into a corner and up it.
6) 30m Climb the wall above for 2 m or so and go L to a groove. Go up past blocks and a small roof to a long narrow ledge below the headwall.
7) 10m (crux) From the L end of the fault, climb the wall, stepping L at the top.
Kieran Loughran, John Stone (alt), January 1979.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="114m" name="Vulcan" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start in the gully 45m below the base of the Foresight.
1) 21m Up and diagonally R.
2) 15m Cracks to big blocks.
3) 18m Diagonally L round scrubby corner then diagonally R.
4) 18m Up slabs then diagonally R for 8 m on easier ground.
5) 20m Up obvious line to R of overhangs.
6) 18m Up to grassy gully leading to top. Tom Terry and Alan Cross, 1967.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="170m" name="Solantic" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Starts from the gully leading to the Foresight-South Peak col.
1) Climb the NW face
2) Traverse R to the W face proper
3) Slab and corner
4) (crux) Chimney and off-width
5) Easy gully to N end of the South Peak. Kim Bischoff, Grant Dixon, Phil Robinson, varied leads Christmas 1979.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="175m" name="West Wall Eliminate"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start below the big corner in the middle of the W face of the South Peak.
1) 37m Climb the corner and continue up the narrow, slanting slab. Now up to a big ledge.
2) 43m Traverse L and climb the corner. Step L and climb the diagonal crack to a small, slanting ledge.
3) 37m Go up the main corner to a huge block 12 m below the roof
4) 33m (crux) Go up for 2 m. Traverse L across the steep wall. Follow the corner diagonally L to a good ledge.
5) 25m The crack above. Chris Dewhirst, Roland Pauligk, John Moore, varied leads, 24 Feb 1967.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="235m" name="Bad Craziness"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the grass terrace 50m right of the West Wall Eliminate and above a small cairn.
1) 45m Climb a short corner with an awkward start, then easily up left and straight up (still easy) to a ledge 15m below a major corner.
2) 40m Move up to the corner, then follow it for a few moves (it becomes an overhanging chimney further up). Exit up left to a ramp. Continue up to a ledge.
3) 35m Continue up left in the line then climb the wall above at the first opportunity, passing just left of a pinnacle of loose rock. Continue up to a stance.
4) 40m The easy (but loose) line leads straight up, via a short excursion to the left, to the ledge above the V chimney.
6) 30m Continue up the chimney-gulley over loose blocks to exit up left in a black groove which leads (unpleasant and loose) to the southwest corner of the summit plateau (this nasty section is best avoided by continuing through the easy chimney above the last belay until it joins the descent route from the peak). C.Baxter, D.Gairns, G.Talbett, Jan 89.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13 A1" length="123m" name="Elf" new="false"
number=""
stars="">On the S face of the South Peak are two cracks. Elf starts from a sloping grass ledge below the L crack which it follows diagonally L to the top of the SW face.
1) 33m Climb the corner using aid (presumably one point) at the overhang. Continue up slab to gully.
2) 36m Up the gully to a large ledge on L.
3) 33m (Crux) Strenuously up the R crack to a large sloping ledge
4) 21m The L line; a tight chimney. Tony Crapper, John Bennet, varied leads, Gordon Talbett, 1 Mar 1968.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="9" length="46m" name="Pixie" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The crack R of Elf is reached after a 40m slab scramble and a traverse.
1) 30m (crux) The line involves a thrutch in a V crack
2) 16m The line. Bruno Zeller, Tony Crapper, Feb 1968.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="4"
name="South Peak Normal Route">From the head of the scree chute leading down to the Geryon campsite, scramble up right to pick up a route to the bivouac cave above and north of the Acropolis-Geryon saddle. Go directly above the cave and scramble north below the west cliffs of the South Spur. Drop down a steep gully below the northwest arete of the South Spur into another gully which leads to the col between the South Peak and the South Spur. Go up to just below the col, then either traverse easily on the west side below the ridge, until you can scramble up to a large slab, or alternately, follow the skyline ridge (exposed) from the col to a slab. Climb the slab and gullies to the top.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="100m" name="Morning Tea" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Enjoyable and straightforward, this route climbs the middle of the N wall of the South Spur. Start in the gully about 50 m below the South Peak-South Spur notch.
1) and 2) Straight up the wall in a series of steps to the NW arête.
3) 15m Arête. Chris Rathbone, Phil Robinson varied leads, 25 Feb 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="102m" name="Piece of Cake"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Follows the NW arête of the South Spur. Start from the col before the drop to the gully leading to the South Peak-South Spur notch.
1) 24m (crux) Start on the L of the face and move R to a ledge at 15 m. Move to R side of face and climb thin diagonal cracks to a big ledge.
2) 27m Climb up from the R edge of the arête and aim for the L of the sharp arete above. Belay on ledge above arête.
3) 36m Up L of main arête.
4) 15m Up to summit. Allan Keller and Terry Costigan, 7 Dec 1967.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="4" length="" name="South Spur Normal Route"
number=""
stars="">From the Acropolis-Geryon saddle follow the skyline ridge moving out over E face (exposed) where necessary. Mostly scrambling (FA details unknown)
</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">For more information on the following traverses, refer to Roger's topo at the beginning of this section.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="310m"
name="Geryon Traverse - South to North" new="false" number=""
stars="***">1) Climb the South Spur Normal Route. Go to the north end of the summit.
2) 75m Abseil 35m then climb down 40m to the col between the peaks.
3) Along the skyline to the South Peak. From its north tip climb down 12m to a ledge.
4) 35m Abseil to the South Peak/Foresight col.
5) 15m Go to a vertical crack under the L end of a large sloping slab. Get onto the slab and move R to overlook the east face. Fixed peg belay.
6) 15m Step to the R across an exposed corner. Continue up more easily to a bushy ledge.
7) 10m To the summit.
8) 65m Reverse the last two pitches of the Foresight Normal Route to the col.
9) 20m Go R a couple of metres. Climb an easy crack. Traverse L over slabs and go up to a large ledge.
10) 40m Go up steeply to a ledge at 5m. L along that ledge and then up 3m R of a corner. Move up and across L to the corner. Continue L to a chimney and climb it.
11) 35m Easily to the summit of the North Peak.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="140m"
name="Geryon Traverse - North to South" new="false" number=""
stars="***">An amazing, but fairly easy, undertaking. Not to be missed!
Start at the edge of the North Peak, overlooking the void. Abseil 45m to the big ledge, from the huge block, taking care to have the ropes over the edge (4m sling required) - amazing stuff! Abseil or downclimb the remaining 20m to the col.
1) 35m Climb pitch two of the Foresight Normal Route.
2) 30m Climb pitch three of the Foresight Normal route.
3). From the south end of the Foresight, abseil 40m to the col. At the col, still on abseil, walk down the rocks a further 5m R, to the chimney line of pitch four.
4) 25m Climb the obvious direct line 8m right of the nose of the South Peak using four points of aid. Go up the easy chimney to below a large overhang.
5) 35m Climb round R of the overhang. Move L and up to the ridge crest and summit. (Alternately, the previous pitch can be stretched out to 45m and an airy belay, leaving a simple 15m to finish).
6) Walk along the top of the South Peak, then reverse (descend) the South Peak Normal Route to the col. Scramble diagonally R then L over easy rock to the gully which leads to the summit of the South Spur.
7) Descend the South Spur Normal Route.</climb>
<text
class="heading3" new="false">Mt Geryon East Face
</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Access via Acropolis/Geryon saddle.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="193m"
name="East Face of the South Spur (Original Route)" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start R of the distinctive orange streaks and L of the big corner.
1) 37m A series of cracks and corners.
2) 30m Straight up for 21 m then diagonally L to just below and R of a sentry box.
3) 12m Traverse 6 m L. Climb the corner past a large tree.
4) 37m Climb the chimney above to an attractive flake. From the scrubby ledge at 18 m, go up to the base of a V corner.
5) 37m (crux) Traverse 2 m R and go up the diagonal crack for 12 m. Climb the corner above and go diagonally L to a slanting, scrubby ledge. 6) 40 m Wander up to hit the ridge 30 m S of the summit.
John Moore, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 18 Feb 1967.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14 A1" length="371m"
name="East Face of the South Peak (Original Route)" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start by scrambling up a short gully to a chimney below the South Peak-Foresight col.
1) 48m The chimney to a scree slope.
2) 39m Across L on scree to the foot of the huge ramp.
3) 33m Up ledges on the L arête of the ramp to a ledge with loose blocks just L of the main corner. Piton belay (fixed).
4) 33m The corner to a good ledge.
5) 30m Straight up for 20 m on steep scrub. Up and L on grass to a bollard.
6) 35m Traverse L (grass) for 10 m to a corner which is climbed to a bushy ledge.
7) 33m L on bushes, then up a slab before moving back R to a ledge with a fixed peg belay.
8) 30m Go R for 7 m to a bushy corner which is climbed, over a large flake, to a good ledge.
9) 26m Go diagonally L (easy) to a peg belay on the L wall of a vegetated corner.
10) 23m (crux) Climb the corner (two piton runners) (or make an early excursion on to the dirty R wall) which eases (still bushy) to a ledge and bolt anchor.
11) 26m Go up the gully for 6 m to fork to L. Climb overhanging loose blocks and go up the corner (fixed peg runners) and move L to a small stance on the face. Tension L from a fixed peg to a bolt which is used to lower into the gully on L (peg belay).
12) 15m The easy but loose gully.
Allan Keller, Tom Terry, Mike Douglas, leads unknown 6 Mar 1966. FFA Jerry Grandage 23 Jan 1968.</climb>
<climb
extra="(actually 19?)" grade="17" length="357m" name="Orion"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">A distinctive line leading to the South Peak-Foresight col.
1) 48m As for previous route.
2) 50m Up scree to a ledge below the line.
3) 48m Up to foot of chimney.
4) 35m Chimney.
5) 30m The line.
6) 48m Up to below large overhang. Bolt anchors.
7) 35m (crux) Climb the overhang and continue in the line to a stance.
8) 48m The line to another small stance.
9) 15m Up to a ledge then up passing a good cave (shelter) on R.
Roland Pauligk, Peter Canning, varied leads, 18 Feb 1970. First free ascent (three aids from pitch 7) Peter Treby, Terry Brookes, varied leads, January 1974. One long abseil down the W side to get off.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17 A3" length="365m" name="Titan" new="false"
number=""
stars="">1) 48m As for Orion etc.
2) 45m To upper R edge of scree.
3) 48m (13) Step R and up for 18 m. Go diagonally R below a smooth wall and up a short corner. Go to a steep crack which is climbed. Go L to a good ledge.
4) 24m (13) Down L then up to a corner. Climb this for 5 m to a scrubby ledge. Go 3 m L to next corner which is climbed for 5 m. Exit R to sloping scrubby ledge below large corner.
5) 26m (17 A2) Sustained climbing with three (spaced) pegs for aid up the corner to ledge on R. Bolt anchor.
6) 21m (13 A3) Aid L wall of corner (bolt) and move R back to corner. Free to roof then aid round it and up to second small stance.
7) 24m (13 A2) Climb line on R free for 8 m then aid diagonally R for 5 m to a ledge. Easily R to next corner - aided to ledge.
8) 36m (13) Scrubby corner above to bushy ledge. The corner above is followed to a sloping ledge on L.
9) 21m (13 A2) Step R, free small corner on L (fixed wedge) to bush. Go R to V corner which is climbed; free then aid. Climb crack on R to stance. Peg anchor.
10) 21m (13 A2) The corner above: 9 m aid, 9 m free, rest is aid to ledge. Move R. Peg belay
11) 12m (15) V corner above to stance on L. Fixed peg belay.
12) 24m (15 A2) Climb the corner above and move R at 6 m. Go up R corner to roof (fixed pin). Traverse R and aid the thin overhanging crack (fixed pin and bolt). The angle eases to a good ledge
13) 15m Up, easily, to Foresight summit.
Roland Pauligk, Rob Taylor, varied leads, Jan 1968</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="11/16" length="370m"
name="East Face of the Foresight (Original Route)" new="false"
number=""
stars="">In the third small 'bay' down and round R of the previous climbs an obvious easy scrubby line slants up L behind a huge flake. From the R end of the scrubby ledge atop this, some 25 m up, go up short scrubby walls and move up and across R, mainly on easy vegetation to the foot of an enormous gully leading up L to the North Peak-Foresight col. (From here Jones and Lyons apparently more of less followed the last two pitches of the normal Foresight route.) (In March 1983 Glenn Tempest, solo, did a significant variant, grade 16, up the buttress immediately L of the huge gully.)
Bob Jones, Bernie Lyons, leads unknown early 1960s.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" length="450m" name="The Shield" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Start as for East Face of the Foresight route.
1-4) 150m Follow this route over easy, scrubby ledges to bottom of huge gully system.
5-8) 130m R to steeper ground, then up over scrubby ledges and steepening walls, tending R towards base of headwall. Up L to gain base of deep chimney-corner below headwall proper (pitch 9 of Pericles).
9) 20m (17) Avoid chimney-corner by climbing L arête, then R to large, bushy ledge.
10) 25m (22) Move belay 10m R to below vertical corner. Up this, then swing R to large, bushy ledge.
11) 40m (24) L crack-corner to ledge (crux) (not corner with fixed wire in it!). Up crack above to block in alcove.
12) 20m (18) Corner to ledge below prominent triple-pointed roof.
13) 35m (22) L to wide crack, up this to ledge. Overhanging crack through bulge to deep V-niche below summit roof.
14) 30m (23) Up to chockstone below steepening. Traverse boldly and with difficulty R to arête above triple-pointed roof. Up R to crack, follow this R.
Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson 20 Feb 1994</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16 A1" length="450m" name="Pericles" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Start at a shallow chimney (P on L wall) 65 m L of the bivy cave and a similar distance R of the previous route.
1) 42m (10) Climb the chimney crack for 30 m then continue more easily.
2) 36m (4) Leave the gully and head up R.
3) 36m (4) Go straight up to a steepening.
4) 36m (7) Go L then up to a small horizontal ledge. Traverse 6 m R.
5) 39m (11) Climb the first line to the R for 36 m. Move L and climb a short steep wall to a small stance. Peg belay.
6) 39m (13) Climb the scrubby crack to the R then on to the nose (peg runner). Go to the end of the ramp and up a crack for 5 m. Traverse 3 m L. Piton belay.
7) 42m (8) Go up to below a small chimney on L.
8) 15m (9) Move L then up into the foot of the chimney.
9) 21m (16 A1) Climb the corner, L of the chimney to the overhang. Move back to the chimney which is climbed to the chockstones. Go R on to the face. Climb the corner (sling for aid), piton runner, to a ledge. Peg anchor.
10) 33m (12) The chimney to a large ledge.
11) 30m (12) Up the line to the nose of the buttress.
12) 30m (14) The same line to a small chimney.
13) 36m (8) Traverse 9 m R to a large chimney; climb it to a small stance.
14) 15m (14) Climb the overhang where the chimney narrows to a crack.
Alan and Geoff Gledhill, varied leads, 28 Jan1969. On the second ascent in 1974, Keith Wadsworth and Rein Kamar, alternate leads, eliminated single aids from pitches 6, 9 and 12</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17 A1" length="432m" name="Prometheus"
new="false" number=""
stars="">On the E face of the Ducane Plateau 100 metres or so N of the bivy cave is a large fallen column. 20 m R of this is a crack with Prometheus etched beside it.
1) 39m (15 A1) Climb the scrubby crack to where the crack steepens. Aid the R crack then free up behind pinnacle to a large ledge.
2) 45m (11) Diagonally L to foot of line. Belay above scree gully.
3) 36m (11) The chossy buttress on L.
4) 36m (13) Go further L then up the broken area for 20 m, traversing R to detached flakes.
5) 21m (15) Traverse diagonally R to main gully. Go up to piton belay.
6) 36m (15) Go down 3 m. Traverse R across gully to feasible crack which leads to a big ledge
7) 42m (15 A1) Climb the chimney above to a ledge at 21 m. Traverse L to a steep, wet crack (.peg for aid) which leads to a ledge above an overhanging wall.
8) 39m (13) Up the chimney crack to loose blocks below the overhang.
9) 18m (15 A1) Climb the widening chimney to a rest at 6 m. Aid the corner above and step L.
10) 30m (16) Climb the corner behind to a ledge. Go over loose blocks to next corner which is climbed to foot of chimney.
11) 45m (15) Climb the narrowing chimney then up easily.
12) 45m (10) Gully.
John Moore Roland Pauligk, alternate leads, 28 Feb 1967 to 1 Mar 1967</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">The Acropolis</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Intro:
TO DO - intro to the Acropolis</text><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Access:
Access from the bottom:
Via Acropolis/Geryon saddle. Approach via Geryon campsite scree.
Access from top:
From the top of the Acropolis walk over towards Geryon (if you can see it), following a vague, but defined track until you sense you are above some decent cliffs. To identify the top pitches of established routes your best bet is to look for fixed gear over the edge, (e.g. the antique wooden wedges at the top of OWH/TGOE, or the bolted arete of TFS). Astroboy is also prominent, as is its blocky starting ledge.</text><text
class="heading3"
new="false">The Acropolis North Face</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="17" length="220m" name="Venus" new="false" number=""
stars="">Start 20 m up L of the L buttress of the main face.
1) 30m Up easily on R then behind block to good ledge on R.
2) 20m Step R and climb cracks over loose blocks to exit L to ledge.
3) 25m (crux) Step L to wide crack. Up this and the rib above. Step R to slabby corner and up it to block on L.
4) 30m Up wide crack above then move R across loose blocks and up flake to behind pinnacle. Move up to belay.
5) 30m Climb cracks on L to ledge. Step L, up bushes, then R to chimney. Climb this over first chockstone then go through hole to good ledge.
6) 25m Crack above, taking R fork at top.
7) 25m Traverse L a little, up step, then round L to foot of chimney in corner.
8) 20m Up chimney and blocks above to ledge on R.
9) 35m Up corners, cracks and ledges to top.
Chris Baxter, Dave Moss (alt), 3 Mar 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="230m"
name="North Face (Original Route)" new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the foot of the lowest buttress on the face (down R of Venus, on the next buttress - really the middle one). Broken climbing for 60 m up the crest of the buttress leads to a large green gully running diagonally down L. Cross this and continue up, moving slightly L for 75 m to a prominent chimney. (A traverse off L is possible here.) Climb the chimney and go up to a short wall. The final pitch (36 m) is the crux; go L round the corner and climb a crack to a large ledge. Traverse R above the belay and go up the steep line. Finish up chimney between face and pinnacle.
John Worrall, Reg Williams, (alt), 19 Jan 1966.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="270m" name="The Wizard of Wad"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start up R of the previous route on the R side of the buttress, a few metres L of Fury
1) 30m Easily diagonally up L to buttress crest..
2) 25m The crack directly above. Step L over block and go up arete on L. Now easily to large block
3) 45m Up the buttress crest to the large green ramp.
4) 40m The wide crack above then the chimney to a ledge on L.
5) 40m Climb blocks on R and move across L to chimney. Go up this to ledge. L to a wide crack .which is climbed, moving L, to a good ledge.
6) 15m Climb the crack above to a grass ledge. Move L to below chimney.
7) 40m Climb the chimney and blocks above moving L to a ledge below a hand-crack.
8) 25m Climb the hand crack and the cracks above on the R to go up behind a huge pinnacle.
9) 10m The middle crack.
Chris Baxter, Dave Moss, (alt), and Miles Martin, 6 Mar 1983.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Astroboy" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">This remarkable and sustained crack is approached by abseil from the top of the cliff. Take many #1 Camalots / #2.5 Friends. The first L-lacing corner L of the top of Fury; starting from a block ledge.
Glenn Tempest, Russell Clune, 7 Mar 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="9B" grade="25" length="30m" name="The Far Side"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">The sharp arête R of Astro Boy. Abseil to the Astro Boy start ledge (a 50m rope doubled just makes it). Stupidly exposed barn-door laybacking on perfect rock. Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Mar 2004.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="220m" name="Wailing for Jonah"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the cairn 5m L of Fury.
1-2) 90m Climb straight up the corner system and a grassy ledge.
3) 40m Climb the second corner system L of Fury to a bushy ledge, then ascend the off-width corner (with jammed block).
4) 35m Climb the obvious crack on the R to a prominent ledge.
5) 15m Finish up the corner on the L.
J.Keane, D.Baker, Feb 1991.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18 A1" length="210m" name="Fury" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start about 20 m up R of the toe of the middle buttress (the lowest) below a line leading to a small pale yellow and black roof at about 8 m
1) 40m Up and chimney past roof on L. Up to third ledge.
2) 45m Corner. At 7 m traverse L above the roof to a crack which is climbed (easing) to the large grass ramp. Go up R to below corner.
3) 40m Climb the main corner to a small horizontal break.
4) 45m (crux) The line to a ledge. Up, one aid 2 m below roof, to semi hanging belay.
5) 20m Corner.
Peter Treby, Terry Brookers, varied leads, 31 Jan1974.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="25" length="210m"
name="Black Man&apos;s Country" new="false" number=""
stars="***">Start up the L side of the 80m wall (Mellow Buttress), just R of the R-lacing corner marking its L edge.
1) 45m (18) Climb thin cracks and the face just R of the corner until these join the corner. Belay on large block in corner below overhang
2) 30m (20) Traverse 5 m R and climb groove R of roof. Pass small roof and continue up corner to ledge
3) 45m (22) Step R on top of blocks and climb crack to face. Climb it and step R to top of large flake. A short face leads up and L to a crack. Climb this past a small overhang to a ledge. Continue up hand-crack, stepping R and up to a large ledge
4) 40m (17) Obvious crack and chimney to bushy ledge
5) 30m (19) Climb L- facing corner for 9 m then step R to ledge. Climb face above to another ledge
6) 20m (25) Up and R to obvious L-facing corner. This pitch used to have a fixed peg runner near top, which has since gone walkabout.
Glenn Tempest, Russ Clune (alt), 6 Mar 1983 (Originally done with one aid at the top; both led that pitch free next day).</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="240m" name="Old Wave Heroes"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">1) 50m (18) As for Miles From Nowhere
2) 40m (21) Step L and climb the crack. Avoid the block at the top by climbing the L wall to a ledge.
3) 40m (20) The crack above curves R to a broken chimney. Up this to a superb ledge on the L.
4) 40m (19) Climb the chimney until an obvious hand-traverse leads out R to a crack. Up this to a large ledge.
5) 50m (19) Instead of the off-width in the corner, climb the hand-crack just R of it. Move L to the corner which is climbed to below the wide chimney of The Gates of Eden. Up this and the easy corner above to a ledge on the L. (TGOE goes up the body chimney above.) Go L to the arête and climb the thin crack and wall to a ledge.
6) 20m (18) As for TGOE. Glenn Tempest, Chris Baxter Mar 1983.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="200m" name="Miles From Nowhere"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start a few metres down R of Black Man's Country at a small black V groove (marked with an arrow) in the middle of Mellow Buttress. (L of low obvious grey roofs).
1) 50m (18) A fantastic pitch! Up the grooves and cracks to the top of a block. Climb the thin face crack above and step up R to belay.
2) 50m (18) Go up R to the wide corner crack. Above, a shallow corner leads to a series of stacked blocks. Belay on top.
3) 35m (17) Take the hand crack just R of the main line to a good ledge. Go R behind block.
4) 25m (19) Up the wide line behind to a small stance.
5) 40m (21) The main line is avoided by a small traverse R to another off-width. Up this and the hand crack above. Glenn Tempest, Russell Clune, (alt), 3 Mar 1983.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18 A1" length="205m" name="The Gates of Eden"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start immediately R of Mellow Buttress, up R of MFN
1) 30m (6) Climb the slabby wall to the foot of the main face. Take the corner above to a large block.
2) 24m (8) Up the smaller corner, higher to the L. Back R to below a dank chimney.
3) 15m (8) Climb the chimney and go R to large ledge.
4) 15m (13) Up the short steep crack to R, then the wide crack above to top of block.
5) 36m (11) Go diagonally L across a slanting, scrubby ledge. Continue up to a large ledge below a small corner.
6) 27m (9) Climb the small crack above. Belay on the big ledge below a large jammed block.
7) 30m (17 A1) Up for 6 m, traverse L (leader used tension, second didn't) and step down to foot of a bulging crack. Climb this and the chimney above to a good ledge.
8) 21m (15) Climb the chimney for 9 m to a ledge. Continue up the unpleasant body crack. Move up L to belay.
9) 20m (18) The magnificent corner containing two antique wedges.
Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, varied leads 17 Feb 1967. Glenn Tempest and Russell Clune eliminated the two aids from the final pitch on 7 Mar 1983.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="200m"
name="In the Days When the World Was Wide" new="false" number=""
stars="">A six-pitch route starting up the wall 7 m R of TGOE and following a direct line. The last pitch is the crux.
Chris Rathbone, Phil Robinson, (alt), 24 Feb 1983.
</climb>
<text
class="heading3"
new="false">The Acropolis West Face
</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="16" length="155m" name="The Plenipotentiary" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Scramble up a gully below the pinnacle.
1) 36m (8) Up buttress to large slanting ledge.
2) 30m (13) Up slabs to foot of corner.
3) 21m (15) Traverse L past a thin crack. Continue diagonal traverse and layback up narrow slabs. Swing round into a vertical V crack which is climbed to a large ledge.
4) 12m (8) Traverse diagonally L. Climb a sharp corner to a small ledge
5) 38m (16) Traverse R to the V crack and climb it.
6) 18m (5) Chimney to the pinnacle-top (Abseil into the notch and find a way, roped scrambling, to the top of the cliffs).
John Moore, Reg Williams, Chris Dewhirst, varied leads, 19 Feb 1967.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="165m" name="Juggles" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Starts up the corner just R of The Plenipotentiary. Start 10m R of corner.
1) 30m (10) Series of steps, keeping R of vegetation.
2) 12m (11) Climb 6 m up crack in corner on L. Traverse over block to main corner.
3) 24m (15) The corner.
4) 30m (13) Up underneath overhang and go R round it. Climb crack then gully to 8 m below The Plenipotentiary notch.
5) 6m (13) L corner to notch (Route now follows ridge behind The Plenipotentiary).
6) 12m (11) Traverse R and up short corners to ledge. Go 6 m R to base of off-width.
7) 15m (15) Climb off-width for 9m to ledge below overhang. Traverse L to nose, level with top of pinnacle.
8) 30m (12)Chimney and crack.
9) 7m (11) Go R to short crack with loose blocks. Climb this to big ledge which leads L to exit gully.
Col Hocking, Phil Robinson, varied leads, 31 Jan1977.</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Catherdral Mountain</text>
<text
class="text"
new="false">There are quite a lot of cliffs around the Lake St Clair end of the overland track besides Mt Geryon. The huge cliff on Cathedral Mt has at least one route - a grade 16 route straight up the middle by John Chapman, which is apparently the only easy way to get on the face which is guarded by large roofs.
</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Ida</text><text class="text"
new="false">Access to Mt Ida, on the eastern shore of Lake St Clair, was originally by boat but future climbers will have to foot slog in due to a change in Park's access policy.</text><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="165m" name="Mount Ida SE Ridge"
new="false" number=""
stars="">This line is the RH (as viewed from Lake St Clair) skyline of the SE rock of Mt Ida. It leads directly to the summit. The LH boundary of the face is a more broken ridge with a prominent pillar on it.
A large step forms the base of the ridge. A protruding thumb of rock about three-quarters of the way up the ridge is a feature prominently visible from the Lake.
Start: at the foot of the step. Cairned.
1) 35m 13. Straight up obvious line (i.e. cracks and grooves) to broad ledge with old dead tree [might may or may not still be there!]. Strenuous mantleshelf after start of this pitch.
2) 35m 3. Over short wall behind ledge and scramble up easy line to foot of good rock.
3) 35m 7. Keep L of good rock to gain broad platform beneath protruding rock thumb (PRT).
4) 40m 12. Up the exit crack/chimney which is gained by a short traverse R from base of PRT.
5) 20m 12. Complete exit chimney and emerge on summit of Mt Ida.
Philip Blake, Mike Douglas, Chris Viney; 21 Jan 1975.
</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false">Eldon Bluff</text><text
class="text" new="false">Eldon Bluff has long attracted the eye of climbers. Clearly visible from many peaks in the west, it was reputed for years to have the highest dolerite cliffs in Tasmania. The trouble is it is in the middle of bloody nowhere, miles from the nearest road head and with no access tracks through the thick, nearly impenetrable scrub. The CCT tried to reach the mountain in 1967 but it wasn't till 1970 that a group led by Tim Walkden-Brown managed to get to the main crag above Lake Ewart. They climbed "The Splinter" (10) before retreating back via the Collingwood River. The only other recorded climbing trip seems to have been an epic by Lucas Trihey and Bob McMahon in February 2000 when they managed to climb "Terra Incognita" (250m, 17) in seven pitches (one bivi), on the NE face . They took a boat across Lake Burbury near Queenstown on the Lyell Highway, travelled up the King River to the junction of the South Eldon and Eldon Rivers and then bush-bashed for four days in typical west coast weather via Eldon Peak (1439m) to the crag. They did find excellent rock but also proved it wasn't as high as they had hoped! For further details and a map (but not a description of the climb unfortunately), check out Rock 35 or Australian Geographic 57.</text>
</guide>
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