<guide version="2">
<header access="To get to the crag requires a 30km (30min.) drive and a slightly shorter walk. Leave Hobart and drive toward Clifton Beach. ~100m before the beach turn left down Bicheno Street and follow the road to a right turn at the "Cape Deslacs Coastal Reserve" sign, ~ 1km past the last hump. Drive along the gravel road for ~600m until a gate is reached at the N Clifton car park. Walk gently uphill for ~10mins to another older car park on the left. From its furthermost point at the bottom, walk through the trees to join a major track coming in from the left. Turn right, walk to the coast and follow it north next to paddocks for about 1.5km. After passing an inlet and about 10 minutes walk, you will glimpse the cliffs in the distance - and will probably dismiss them as being too small. However, rest assured that they are more impressive in the flesh. When amongst the thistles and old grey stumps, drop downhill to Lark's Edge – an easy 40min walk all up. On return look out carefully for the old car park on the left." acknowledgement="by Peter Jackson, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="Although Lark's Edge is a small crag, it possesses some excellent little climbs. The location beside the sea is quite exquisite, although it might not be such a great place when the swell is up! If you really went for it, you might do all you want to in a single visit - but then again, how many people do ten or fifteen routes in a day?" name="Lark's Edge" rock="Short dolerite buttresses" sun="Morning sun" walk="40 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
<text id="46" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text>
<text id="47" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (southarm@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.<br/><br/>Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text>
<text class="text" id="2">The first climbs are on the Main Wall. There are five bolts atop, which now make top-roping and topping-out a dream.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="Dawntreader" number="1." stars="*" id="3" fa="Marcel Jackson (solo), Nov 1989.">The east face of the leaning block. Go up, moving left to the arête and the finish.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Anchor Blade" id="4" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="2.">Climb the right-hand edge of the leaning block which faces the cliff. Step up with difficulty then follow the arete to the top. Very poor protection (none!).</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Schweppes" id="5" fa="Hamish Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="3.">The inside wall of the leaning block. Climb the face trending right towards the top. Small wire protection is possible but of doubtful quality.</climb>
<climb id="39" stars="" extra="" number="4." name="Bushmans Hanky" length="8m" grade="9" fa="Max Hopwood, Jan 2017">The West facing side of the leaning block, around the arete from Schweppes. Climb the chimney and use main face for protection.</climb>
<climb id="40" stars="" extra="" number="5." name="Lost Sock" length="10m" grade="10" fa="Max Hopwood (solo), Mar 2017">The chimney at the North Western corner opposite the leaning block. Chimney up, remaining at the entrance to gain ledges halfway up. No protection.</climb>
<climb id="41" stars="" extra="" number="6." name="Escape the Snake Guardian" length="10m" grade="13" fa="Max Hopwood (solo), Mar 2017">The deep end of the North Western chimney as for Lost Sock. Walk into chimney and to the end. Squeeze chimney up until head becomes constricted, then move left and finish as for Lost Sock. No Protection.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="9" length="10m" name="Aiken Drum" id="6" fa="Jacksons (solo), Nov 1989." stars="*" number="7.">Very pleasant. Start immediately right of Anchor Blade and across the gap leading to Schweppes. Climb up on rounded holds to an easy angled crack.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Postscript" id="7" fa="Marcel Jackson (solo), Nov 1989." stars="" number="8.">Climb the face and crack 2m right of Aiken Drum.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Aussie Butler" id="8" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="9.">Rather deceptive. Start about 3m right of Postscript. Climb the overhang and continue up the crack moving left at the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Aussie Butler Variant" id="9" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="10.">Start as for the original line. Climb the incipient crack on the left to finish at the same point.</climb>
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<legend>
<climb>42</climb>
<climb>10</climb>
<climb>11</climb>
<climb>12</climb>
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<climb>14</climb>
<climb>15</climb>
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<climb id="42" stars="" extra="" number="11." name="North East Arete" length="10m" grade="14" fa="Phil Robinson May 2020">The nose right of Aussie Butler. Worthwhile despite the alarming looking rock. Scary to lead but enjoyable on a top rope. Surmount the bulge and stay on the steep juggy arete.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Wall Street" number="12." stars="" id="10" fa="Hamish Jackson, Nov 1989.">A climb on steep and alarming rock which may well collapse! After Aussie Butler the cliff base turns a corner. Climb the face, tending R at the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="Nexter" stars="**" id="11" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." number="13.">Almost brilliant - steep face climbing with small wire protection for the top crux. Start 1m right of the chimney and ascend the thin crack in the wall.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="Strongbow" id="12" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="*" number="14.">The shallow left facing corner 3m right of Nexter. Climb up on good holds, then finish up the left facing corner (crux).</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="22" length="12m" name="Ozone" number="15." stars="" id="13" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989.">Steep climbing up a proud section of rock, but squeezed between easier climbs. Start 1m right of Strongbow. Climb the face to the small roof, pull around this, then continue up to the horizontal break and a good runner. A long crank allows the hole to be reached and hence the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="22" length="12m" name="Thug" id="14" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="16.">The obvious hand-crack. Climb with difficulty around the overhang, then more easily up the crack above.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Clubfoot" id="15" fa="Peter Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="17.">Start as for Thug. Climb right across the sweep of grey rock beneath the overhang then pull onto the face above. Continue up easily to a short wall finish.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="12m" name="Stairway to Heaven" id="16" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="**" number="18.">Great fun with a crux finish. Start at the corner right of Clubfoot. Climb the easy corner, then move left of the overhang to a long reach finish.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Ngalibanga" id="17" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="19.">Start just right of Stairway to Heaven. Ascend the finger pockets and the face, then finish out right of the roof.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="12m" name="Keko" id="18" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="20.">Sustained face climbing just right of Ngalibanga.</climb>
<climb id="38" stars="**" extra="" number="21." name="Little White Lie" length="20m" grade="17" fa="Jai and Shumita September 2013">This diagonal weakness is the easiest and longest climb up the main face. Highly recommended. Start up the right tending crack, 4m R of S T Heaven. At 3m height take the left leading diagonal crack to surmount the ledge (crux). Cross Stairway to Heaven and continue up and left to finish up the last 3m of thug.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Leyland P76" id="19" fa="Evan Peacock, Jan 1990." stars="" number="22.">Start on the face just right of Keko. Climb up to join the right trending crack at one third height. Continue on to a small jug and hence to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Little Mary" id="20" fa="Peter Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="23.">The small corner with twin cracks.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Freezinhot" id="21" fa="Evan Peacock (solo), Jan 1990." stars="" number="24.">Start immediately right of Little Mary. Move up easily to the horizontal break, then to a large jug on the right arete. Reach high for a sloper, then the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="8" length="8m" name="Dog on a Cold Wet Slab" id="22" fa="Evan Peacock, Jan 1990." stars="" number="25.">The easy boulder 1m right of Freezinhot.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Sunset Over Carlton" id="23" fa="Colin Reed, Jan 1990." stars="" number="26.">Climb the line up the face just to the left of Scuba Diving, with runners in the incipient crack to the right.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Scuba Diving" id="24" fa="Evan Peacock (solo), Jan 1990." stars="" number="27.">The obvious crack at the back of the big pool.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Megasweet" id="25" fa="Evan Peacock, Jan 1990." stars="" number="28.">The face immediately right of Scuba Diving. The line is decent but protection is less so (RP's out right).</climb>
<text class="text" id="26">All other routes are well beyond the big pool. The first is on Strine Wall.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Strine" id="27" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="29.">Climb up on small holds to a horizontal crack, then on to the top.</climb>
<text class="text" id="28">About 100m north along the coast are the Compact Walls. They are slightly smaller than the main one, and are located just before the large 'island' platform (the Big Sucker). Access to the bottom of the climbs can easily be made by descending at either end of the wall or by scrambling along at sea level.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Black Lace" id="29" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="30.">Climbs up the unlikely looking twin cracks.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="12" length="8m" name="Pox" id="30" stars="" number="31." fa="">The layback/hand crack up the left-hand side of the pillar.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Crinkle Cut" id="31" fa="Peter Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="32.">Start 10m right of Black Lace and 2m left of Barbed Wire Love.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Barbed Wire Love" id="32" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="33.">A single small wire placement at the thin horizontal crack ensures ground fall potential in the upper reaches after the middle layback crux.</climb>
<text class="text" id="33">About 50m right of here is a bouldering area. Further on still, on an isolated buttress and the last routes.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Birds Nest Revisited" id="34" fa="Marcel Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="34.">The left-hand route. Climb easily to the small roof, then proceed up the loose blocks on dubious gear.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Chordate" id="35" fa="Peter Jackson, Nov 1989." stars="" number="35.">The strenuous crack up better rock to the right.</climb>
</guide>
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