<guide version="3" pagesize="500">
<header name="Hazards Craglets" id="1" autonumber="true" camping="" walk="10-40 mins" sun="Afternoon sun" rock="Pink and orange granite, 10-50m" intro="This section of the guide covers some of the myriad of small crags found on the flanks of Mt Parsons and the peak to the right, as well as some random cliffs on Mt Mayson, small crags on the Western coastline of the Hazards, and Schouten Island. There is some great climbing to be found among these crags, but some can be tricky to find." history="" acknowledgement="" access=""/>
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<text id="3" class="heading2">Wombat Crag</text>
<text id="4" class="Discussion">This crag is the confused mass of slabs, walls and scrub to the north of and below the summit of Mt. Parsons and is easily reached via the Skyline Traverse in about 40 minutes. Most existing routes are less than 80m high and the cliff faces east and north. There are three separate tiers of climbs.</text>
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<climb>10</climb>
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<text id="6" class="heading3">Upper Tier</text>
<text id="7" class="Discussion">The upper tier of Wombat Crag is a 50m high slabby wall up and to the left of Wombat Crag proper and provides a scenic nursery for gaining skills necessary for the Hazards more serious slabs. The left-hand end of the crag is easily identified by a prominent green spot (moss shrubs) halfway up a dark slab. Descent is by a large slabby ramp at the extreme right (north) of the cliff.</text>
<text id="8" class="Discussion">Access: Traverse right from the top of the first hill on the Skyline Traverse track, to the base of the cliff, about 40 minutes from Sleepy Bay.</text>
<climb name="A Bolt From The Blue" id="9" fa="Nick Hancock, Neil Mullinger, Nov 2002." stars="*" number="1." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="7" guide.action="submit" grade="27" extra="Þ">At the top of the east side of Wombat Crag Upper Tier, is a huge boulder with a green north-east arête (visible from Sleepy Bay car park). Begin at the boulder below the two carrot bolts. A #6 Rock is also necessary.</climb>
<climb name="The Green Spot Route" id="10" fa="L.Bottomley, A.Hasan, G.Cooper Jun 1992." stars="" number="2." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="8" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">On the left-hand end of the wall at the top of a large pillar leaning against the main face to the left of the green spot. From the top of the pillar climb directly up the slab, two bolts provide protection. A direct start up the pillar would improve the route.</climb>
<climb name="The Dragon Looked At Me" id="11" fa="L.Bottomley, Richard Eccleston Jun 1992." stars="" number="3." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="9" guide.action="submit" grade="12" extra="">50m right of The Green Spot Route, past a prominent chimney, the crag is divided by an obvious gully. Climb from the blocks to a short crack on the blunt arête formed by the gully's left-hand side. Move left onto the runout but easy slab.</climb>
<climb name="Inside The Dragon" id="12" fa="G.Cooper, A.Hasan, L.Bottomley, J.Rackham, Jun 1992." stars="*" number="4." length="60m" grade="15" extra="">Very entertaining and a bit bizarre. To the gully's right there is a huge detached flake in front of the main cliff. This is The Dragon . 1. 10m. Climb from the blocks up to the huge right tending ledge. 2. 15m. Continue right inside the dragon until chockstones block passage. 3. 35m. Crux. Chimney and bridge between the dragon and the mainface. Move precariously onto the main face and follow slab to the top.</climb>
<climb name="Smear Test" id="13" fa="Chris Snell, Sophie LeRoux, Nick Hancock Feb 2002." stars="" number="5." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="11" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="Þ">This route is worthless, except as a means to get to Entente Cordiale. It is on the right side of the slab below and right of Inside the Dragon. Thinish moves past a U-bolt lead to easier climbing (16) past two more, then move right past medium wires, or a medium cam to Entente Cordiale at the gum tree in the gully.</climb>
<climb name="Entente Cordiale" id="14" fa="Nick Hancock, Sophie LeRoux (alt.) with Chris Snell Feb 2002" stars="**" number="6." length="35m" grade="23" extra="Þ">1. 23. Climb the arête L of Where Wild Wombats Waltz past 4 U-bolts to a ledge below the headwall. 2. 21. From the ledge follow the runnel above via 3 U-bolts to a single bolt belay.</climb>
<climb name="Where Wild Wombats Waltz" id="15" fa="Richard Eccleston, A.Hasan, L.Bottomley, Garn Cooper Jun 1992." stars="*" number="7." length="55m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="13" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">50m right of the gully The Dragon ends by forming an obvious corner against a compact slab immediatelt right of Entente Cordial. Take the slab direct, 5m right of the corner. Up slab passing a bolt to weakness in headwall and another bolt at 18m. Continue past bolt through the steepening scoop and up the easy slab to top.</climb>
<text id="16" class="heading3">Middle Tier</text>
<text id="17" class="Discussion">On the northern side of a gully north of Wombat crag is an elongated face averaging 30m in height. Rainy Day is the straight line about 200m from the upstream end just northwest of a wide ledge near the top. This cliff is the one below the upp tier and is best approached from below, not from the upper tier</text>
<climb name="Rainy Day" id="18" fa="Phil Robinson, K.Kiernan Oct 1974." stars="" number="8." length="27m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="16" guide.action="submit" grade="7" extra="">On a small boulder in scrub at base of cliff. Up fairly easy angled slabs, keeping to the right of crack which affords some protection. Cross crack 6m from the top, incredible jugs lead up left wall to finish.</climb>
<climb name="Phiningup" id="19" fa="Phil Robinson, K.Kiernan Oct 1974." stars="" number="9." length="45m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="17" guide.action="submit" grade="9" extra="">This route is the obvious crack on slab just west of two parallel and scrubby inclined gullies in second tier of cliffs on northern side of Wombat crag. Obvious corner with chockstones in initial 6m. Up corner, then angle eases. Follow steepening diagonal crack then finish on gentle angled slab.</climb>
<climb name="Pavlova" id="20" fa="Marcel, Hamish and Peter Jackson Dec 1989." stars="" number="10." length="85m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="18" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">Mostly very nice slab climbing up the centre of the longest slab, somewhat mared by a dangerous runnout on pitch 2 (needs a bolt to make it sane, or a leader comfortable soloing grade 15 slabs). Starts left of the centre of the crag at a large slab region. Go left past the light water streaks to a small detatched buttress. There is an offwidth crack on the front and an evil chimney thing either side. The route takes a fourth option, a crack system on the RH side. 1. 12m. Up to the top of vthevpinnackle and belay over the back. 2. 25m. Step off the pinnacle top onto the main face (no runners) and traverse 3m right, and then up delicately to a runner at ~12m, Continue up to crack coming in from the right. 3. 20m. Up the face heading for the isolated bush. Just below are two depressions. The second one has another thin section. 4. Up past the bush and on to top.</climb>
<climb name="Downpipe-Crusher Wombat" id="21" fa="Garn Cooper, Dave Gardner, Jun 1985." stars="**" number="11." length="30m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="19" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">Definitely worth the walk even if the others aren't. About 100m left of Composite Corner and 5m right of the huge main corner which can be clearly seen from the north on the way up from Sleepy Bay. Layaway up until you can move left onto the face. Up juggy slab to small diagonal ledge. Off left end of ledge up steep runout slab to small headwall. Left under headwall to weakness and up this to top.</climb>
<climb name="Ursinus" id="22" fa="B.Lawson, D.Drake, Nov 1971." stars="" number="12." length="33m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="20" guide.action="submit" grade="13" extra="">The route keeps some 5m left of the major corner formed where the smooth slabby left hand side of the cliff meets the broken blocky right hand section. (Apparently difficult to find from that description). Start at a crack 5m left of the corner. Climb the crack awkwardly until an easy angled slab is reached at 12m. Move up the slab toward a corner some 10m high with a large bush at its foot. This is 6m left of a major corner. Move up past the bush to the foot of a good layback crack. Layback up for 3m, then step out onto a small stance on the right. Climb on up the corner to a belay stance at the top.</climb>
<climb name="Ursinus (Var Start)" id="23" fa="R.Williams, G.Kowalik, Nov 1971." stars="" number="13." length="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="21" guide.action="submit" grade="13" extra="">The major corner 5m right of the direct crack. Chimney and thrutch up the curved, bottle necked chimney (bloody awkward) for about 4m then traverse left along a narrow ledge to join the direct route.</climb>
<climb name="Bengt Race" id="24" fa="L.Bottomley, A.Ross, May 1991." stars="" number="14." length="30m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="22" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">Approximately 60m right of Downpipe-Crusher Wombat, 10m right of Ursinus, below a small detached buttress. 1. 13m. Hand traverse along front of small buttress, and up onto it. Move right from the top, and up onto slab. 2. 17m. Head up to the backwall and do the rightwards ascending traverse.</climb>
<climb name="Composite Corner" id="25" fa="K.Kiernan, P.Robinson (Pitch 1) Oct 74. C.Dawson, M.McWhirter (Pitch 2) Oct 1974." stars="" number="15." length="36m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="23" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">Right on the west end of the crag near the more southerly corner. At the foot of the upper cliffs is a large flake 40m long and 15m wide. Access is through a cave heading north then traverse back to attractive line immediately to the right of the obvious face. Start at the belt of scrub at the top of the slab. 1. 26m. Jam for 7m then cross wide vegetated ledge and up obvious line through overhang. Continue up twin cracks in right angled corner forming opposite right angle to ledge. 2. 10m. Continue up crack (which thins out and eventually shuts down) by bridging. At the top of the crack and below the small roof move left onto exposed face. Move up wall to top.</climb>
<climb name="The Crystal Method" id="152" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, Ben Griggs July 2015." stars="***" number="16." length="25m" grade="25" extra="">At the very far right side and high up on Wombat Crag is a steep featured wall best approached from the top via abseil. Climb up through two small roofs and trend right to a very thin finish up the blunt arête on crystals to a dbb. From here its easy to scramble to the top roped up.</climb>
<text id="174" class="heading3">Fat Slipper Area</text>
<text id="175" class="text">A nose of rock about 100m east of Inchman main slab visible when walking from Sleepy Bay to Inchman Crag</text>
<climb id="176" stars="" extra="" number="17." name="Bonsai" length="18" grade="17" fa="Jeroen Jansen, Jai Friend 16 Oktober 2022">On the north-east side visible when coming from Sleepy Bay. Hand crack to offwidth past a small bonsai at the start and a bigger one mid route. Belay on tree at top and/ or scramble down gully to the left</climb>
<climb id="177" stars="" extra="" number="18." name="Baby Bonsai" length="18" grade="16" fa="">Variant to Bonsai avoiding the offwidth section by heading right in to the jam crack</climb>
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<climb>176</climb>
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<climb name="Fat Slipper" id="29" fa="N.Selby, A. Mason 7 Aug 2004." stars="" number="19." length="18m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="27" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="8Þ">This climb is on a seperate nose of rock about 50m east of Inchman main slab. On the the south west side of this crag, to the right of a crack/water streak. Climb the slab on what you can find past 8 bolts to a rap point.</climb>
<text id="26" class="heading3">Inchman Crag</text>
<text id="27" class="text">Sometimes referred to as the lower tier of Wombat Crag, this cliff is actually not very near either of the other tiers. The best way to find it is to look for the impressive looking zig-zagging flake that is the climb Inchman. This can be seen from the descent into Sleepy Bay, and from within the bay itself. It's to the right of the skyline track, past significant gully. The cliff can be reached by walking on the skyline traverse past the Underworld. 50 m past where you leave the gravel track and start up slabby rock - at this point head horizontally right below the lowest significant rock-band crossing a white streak of rock up the cliff (easily visible from Sleepy Bay) for 500 m to where the cliffs steepen.</text>
<climb name="Inchworm" id="151" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, May 2015" stars="**" number="20." length="15m" grade="23" extra="">Climb the overhanging L facing corner crack on the far L of Inchman crag. Strenuous with good protection.</climb>
<climb id="182" stars="" extra="" number="21." name="Closed Project" length="" grade="" fa="">Bolted line on FHs left of TTL.</climb>
<climb name="Toe the Line" id="166" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock Jun 2018" stars="***" number="22." length="25m" grade="26" extra="9Þ ">Climb easily up the big nose feature between the waterstreaks on the main slab. Make a big step L, then teeter up the sustained and complex face to easier ground. Finish up the groove to a DBB.</climb>
<climb id="183" stars="" extra="" number="23." name="Closed Project" length="" grade="" fa="">Bolted line on FHs right of TTL. Looks great!</climb>
<climb name="Inchman" id="30" fa="Peter, Marcel & Hamish Jackson Dec 1989." stars="**" number="24." length="60m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="28" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">The line of the great flake clearly visible from sleepy bay. An impressive feature. Starts on the terrace (reached from the right) below the left facing curving offwidth. 1. The crack to the top of the flake, only No. 6 cams will fit (or homemade wooden bongs as used on the FA). 2. Walk along the top of the flake . 3. Up the flake to the overhang, undercling left and up the corner easily to the top. Delightful.</climb>
<climb name="The Second Mile" id="31" fa="Marcel, Peter & Hamish Jackson Dec 1989." stars="" number="25." length="21m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="29" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="">A direct start to Inchman through the black slab below the start of the climb with two carrot bolts. Begin about 4m left of the bolts. Up for 3m and then move right rising to a faint line. On via bolts to top.</climb>
<climb id="181" stars="" extra="" number="26." name="Unknown" length="20 m" grade="27" fa="">A bolted line at the top of the approach chute/gully for Inchman (the climb). Climbs at 27 on small edges and seams, starting down and right of the first bolt, which can be clipped by bridging up the tree.</climb>
<climb name="Spanner" id="32" fa="Marcel and Hamish Jackson, Feb 1999." stars="" number="27." length="70m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="30" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="">The only obvious weakness through the large sweeping wall right of Inchman. 1. Up the beautiful obtuse corner (with 2 seams facing each other), clip rusty peg, then exit out right (crux) to traverse gingerly R across (not up!) the slab to join cracks. Up cracks and face to tree belay. 2. 15m. As for Inchman. The first attempt of the line (in January 1990) resulted in a serious ground-fall from above the first crack system. Despite its history, this climb actually has quite adequate protection.</climb>
<climb name="Knocked Up on Cheap Champagne" id="33" fa="N.Selby, R.DeCeasare 28 Aug 2004." stars="**" number="28." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="31" guide.action="submit" grade="24" extra="16Þ">8m right of Spanner, start at a little roof then follow the bolts left and up (16 bolts to rap point). This climb can be done as two pitches but is best done in one. You can rap the climb with one rope - it is a 20m rap then a 25m rap. Originally 22 before losing some holds at the beginning.</climb>
<climb name="Top of My To Do List" id="34" fa="Doug McConnell 2004." stars="**" number="29." length="15m" grade="24" extra="4Þ">20m right of Knocked Up climb a lovely pink seam to a DBB.</climb>
<text id="35" class="heading2">Gracelands Area</text>
<text id="36" class="heading3">Hancocks Knob<br/></text>
<text id="164" class="text"><br/>On open slabs at the southwestern end of Inchman crag is a pinnacle with a sharp arête (AGAIG), easily visible from Gracelands. About 300m SW of Top of My to Do list, and slightly higher on the hill.<br/></text>
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<legend>
<climb>142</climb>
<climb>143</climb>
<climb>141</climb>
<climb>37</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb name="Hail Caesar" id="142" fa="Rob Decesare, 2004." stars="*" number="30." length="15m" grade="22" extra="4Þ">Left arete past 4 bolts to DBB.</climb>
<climb name="Sell By Date" id="143" fa="Norm Selby, 2004." stars="**" number="31." length="15m" grade="22" extra="4Þ">Middle of the wall via 4 bolts and good climbing to DBB..</climb>
<climb name="Roger's Strap-on" id="141" fa="Roger Parkyn, Klaudia Marte, Jul 2010. " stars="*" number="32." length="15m" grade="22" extra="4Þ">Line of U's 2m left of As Good As It Gets.</climb>
<climb name="As Good As It Gets" id="37" fa="Nick Hancock, Jul 2001." stars="**" number="33." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="35" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Climb this arête via wires and a carrot with a fixed hanger near the top.</climb>
<climb name="Sicker Than AIDS" id="38" fa="Nick Hancock & Heather Trygstad, Jan 2005." stars="**" number="34." length="15m" grade="26" extra="5Þ">The overhanging arête right of As Good as It Gets, starting on the right.</climb>
<climb name="Gutter Snipe" id="39" fa="Nick Hancock, Jul 2001." stars="" number="35." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="37" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">The runnel on the east side.</climb>
<text id="40" class="heading3">The Kindergarten</text>
<text id="41" class="Discussion">You can see the crag across the gully from Wave Wall. If you park in a small alcove (a blocked off vehicular track) on a rise, you're only about 150m away. From the road you should see a prow, head for this. Just before the prow there is a huge boulder with a slab that runs into a corner, this is Rough Play Princess. Head left round the boulder and up, to arrive on a large platform beneath the prow.</text>
<climb name="Rough Play Princess" id="146" fa="" stars="**" number="36." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">A mini classic! Climb the unprotected, but well featured slab into the corner crack. One heart in mouth move before a good medium cam can be placed. Fun laybacking to the top.</climb>
<climb name="The Dungeon Masters" id="42" fa="Grant Rowbottom, Evan Peacock, S.Ford, C.Reed Sep 1992." stars="" number="37." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="40" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Follow the crag line left for about 100m until it abruptly turns uphill. This is the route up the arête. Move up a groove to attain the start of an overhanging layback. Excellent moves through the layback to pull out onto a slab.</climb>
<climb name="Childhood Memories" id="43" fa="Evan Peacock, T.Albion, C.Reed, Nov 1991." stars="" number="38." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="41" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">About 15m left of The Cloakroom is a small ledge running up to a dubious flake, follow this.</climb>
<climb name="The Crystal Ball" id="154" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, Apr 2016" stars="**" number="39." length="25m" grade="24" extra="8Þ">Below the left side of the main face, use an undercut to make a long reach to a jug, then scratch up the very thin slab, to easier moves to the ledge. Hug up the arete for a move, then trend up and right with increasing difficulty, below the vague overlap, to a hard finish near the arête. DBB above.</climb>
<text id="46" class="heading3">Talking Rock</text>
<text id="47" class="Discussion">About 500m past Wave Wall on the other side of the gully stands a large, featured, north facing block, atop slabbier rock. Although it has only six climbs on it there is a more potential on the south face.</text>
<climb name="The Vacillators" id="48" fa="K.Waldheim, Jun 1990." stars="" number="40." length="12m" grade="16" extra="">The nice face just left of the corner just left of Little Green Monkeys.</climb>
<climb name="Little Green Monkeys" id="49" fa="Nick Hancock, July 2013. TR E.Peacock, G.Cooper, S.Ford, C.Reed Jun 1990." stars="*" number="41." length="12m" grade="20" extra="">The nice face about 15m left of the offwidth left of Quantum Fluctuations. Start at the obvious flake and go straight up. Good medium cams at only half height mean a scary finish.</climb>
<climb name="Homo Stone" id="50" fa="Nick Hancock, July 2013. TR E.Peacock, C.Reed, Jun 1990." stars="" number="42." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="48" guide.action="submit" grade="23" extra="">The undercut corner about 3m left of the offwidth left of Quantum Fluctuations. With a runner in the tree, boulder up the hard bulge to easier ground and wires and small cams.</climb>
<climb name="Quantum Fluctuations" id="51" fa="Nick Hancock, July 2013. Garn Cooper Mar 1986 (without the start)." stars="" number="43." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="49" guide.action="submit" grade="23" extra="">2m left of Hard Logic is a short arête with an extreme bouldery start which is now climbed. No protection but climbing eases to about 18 at the top.</climb>
<climb name="Hard Logic" id="52" fa="Evan Peacock (solo) Jun 1990" stars="" number="44." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">2m left of Fret Arête.</climb>
<climb name="Fret Arête" id="53" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Pete Steane, Feb 1985." stars="" number="45." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="51" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">Climb the arête closest to Mt. Amos.</climb>
<text id="54" class="heading3">Wave Wall</text>
<text id="55" class="Discussion">Found by Bluey Dawson and Ian Lewis in 1974, Wave Wall has recently had a bit of a resurgence with two new bolted slabs and a good new crack climb. To get there drive about 500m along the Sleepy Bay road from the turnoff, then walk towards the Hazards for about 100m. The crag is almost hidden by trees although the top is visible from the road. The left hand end is shaped like a wave.</text>
<climb name="Higgs Boson" id="144" fa="Kim Ladiges & Mick Wright, May 2013." stars="" number="46." length="40m" grade="20" extra="">The handcrack just left of the wide crack of trout mask replica is just lovely: large sharp crystals and soil filled for the second half. Where it peters out into a slab, go carefully up/L with no further protection to a trees.</climb>
<climb name="Trout Mask Replica" id="56" fa="I.Lewis, C.Dawson, Jun 1974." stars="*" number="47." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="54" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">Start 5m left of Sun Zoom Spark. 1. 25m. Hand jam up and cross into offwidth . Up this to a tree and continue up awkward V-chimney to a terrace. 2. 25m. Layback up right side of the flake, cross onto the left side and up to the top of it. Continue up the slab above without protection.</climb>
<climb name="Sun Zoom Spark" id="57" fa="C.Dawson, I.Lewis, Jun 1974." stars="" number="48." length="80m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="55" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">To the right of the wave are two cracks and then another with a large block at its base. This is it. 1. 34m. Up crack to tree and keep going on incredible rock to ledge. 2. 46m. Go right along ledge and layback under flake and up slab to top.</climb>
<climb name="Sliced Meat" id="58" fa="C.Maddock, Feb 1985." stars="" number="49." length="20m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="56" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">In the face approximately 4m right of start for Sum Zoom Spark is an obvious concavity, with a short shallow crack at its base. Up the shallow crack then right, up to where face steepens. Continue straight up low angle face to belay in Sun Zoom Spark.</climb>
<climb name="Probability Wave" id="59" fa="Heather & Nick Hancock, April 2013." stars="**" number="50." length="25m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="57" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">Climb the vague right trending shallow seam with seven bolts right of Sliced Meat to an easier slab and DBB on the terrace.</climb>
<climb name="Uncertainty Principle" id="145" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, May 2013. " stars="**" number="51." length="25m" grade="24" extra="">Climb up to a small ledge just right, then desperately scratch rightwards up the steep wall on tiny crystals past five bolts, to easier ground. Trend left via the last bolt of Probability Wave to the same DBB.</climb>
<text id="60" class="heading3">Gracelands</text>
<text id="61" class="Discussion">Shambling over an elevated terrace across the valley from Talking Rock is a north facing set of cubic blocks. The terrace slopes down, the face leans out. There are some obvious bottomless cracks of character. The cliff is beautifully situated with views of Coles Bay and Sleepy Bay, punctuated by the hills of Wave Wall and Talking Rock.</text>
<text id="62" class="Discussion">Access takes about 20 minutes. Just past Wave Wall on the Cape Tourville Rd is a sharp left-hand bend (no more than half a km from Coles Bay Rd turn-off). Park just past this on the left. The track to the cliff starts back at the sharp bend. Head towards the large boulder visible from the road to a clearing . The track continues L of this towards some other boulders and then two options have evolved; Either continue up valley as per map, or veer right up 10mins up to the summit of small hill. Walk long the summit of this to the eastern rim, from which you can see Gracelands. Descend to creek, cross this, then go up to the cliff.</text>
<image id="148" height="434" src="gracelands01.jpg" legendTitle="Gracelands" legendy="7" legendx="12" legend="true">
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<legend>
<climb>66</climb>
<climb>68</climb>
<climb>70</climb>
<climb>71</climb>
<climb>72</climb>
<climb>73</climb>
<climb>77</climb>
<climb>78</climb>
<climb>79</climb>
<climb>82</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb name="Africa" id="64" fa="Marcel Jackson Jul 1990." stars="" number="52." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="61" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">The crappy corner crack 30m left of Meaty Bites.</climb>
<climb name="Meaty Bites" id="65" fa="Peter Jackson, Marcel Jackson, Aug 1990." stars="" number="53." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="62" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">Never mind the dog, feed your fists to this angry start. The difficulties ease to a nice overhanging corner.</climb>
<climb name="Dolo" id="138" number="54." length="15m" grade="11">The slab, chimney and flake 5m L of Leap of Faith.</climb>
<climb name="Leap Of Faith" id="66" fa="Gary Phillips, Sam Edwards, Sep 1995." stars="**" number="55." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="63" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="4Þ">Through the roof left of Bodyguard. Stick clip the first bolt (sometimes works loose) and continue past three more to DBB.</climb>
<climb name="Bodyguard" id="67" fa="Peter Jackson, Marcel Jackson Aug 1990." stars="*" number="56." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="64" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">A pleasant layback start to this bottomless offwidth. Hidden holds make offwidth techniques unnecessary. Big pro and a steep finish add atmosphere.</climb>
<climb name="Goodness Gracious" id="68" fa="Roger Parkyn Sep 1993." stars="**" number="57." length="12m" grade="23" extra="4Þ">A lovely route going up the slightly overhanging arête wall right of Bodyguard. Apparently Roger was ahead of his time installing Tasmania's first all U-anchor route, pity about the lack of lower-offs.</climb>
<climb name="Flow Rida" id="69" fa="Ken Palmer Mar 2008." stars="*" number="58." length="10m" grade="27" extra="Þ">The finger bending wall right of Goodness Gracious moving right at the last bolt to DBB.</climb>
<climb name="The Jaw" id="70" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson Jul 1990." stars="**" number="59." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="66" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">A sporting start to the bottomless crack. Start the face just left of the crack and continue straight to the top. Fabulous deep slot halfway up.</climb>
<climb name="Ju Ju" id="71" fa="Peter Jackson, Hamish Jackson Sep 1990. FFA Nick Hancock 10 Jun 2001." stars="" number="60." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="67" guide.action="submit" grade="24" extra="">The overhanging crack on the nose to the right. Continue up to the slot on The Jaw and finish up the offwidth on the right.</climb>
<climb name="Born Under a Bad Sign" id="72" fa="Nick Hancock (climbing) & Roger Parkyn (cheat stone support), Jun 2004." stars="*" number="61." length="15m" grade="26" extra="4Þ">Climb the arête right of Ju Ju.</climb>
<climb name="Free Space" id="73" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson Jul 1990." stars="**" number="62." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="69" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">A superb, photogenic route. Up the crack on the right of the wall. When this blanks out, traverse left along the line of holds across the face, then finish up the short crack. The direct up the RH crack is about 21.</climb>
<climb name="Elvis Goes Metal" id="74" fa="Roger Parkyn Sep 1993." stars="**" number="63." length="9m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="70" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="Þ">Bizarre double arête spanning can be used to ascend the lone pillar buttress right of Free Space. This route may be harder or easier depending upon your arm-span.</climb>
<climb name="Gumboots" id="75" fa="Peter Jackson Sep 1990." stars="" number="64." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="71" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">The wide crack just right of the descent gully, awkward finish.</climb>
<climb name="Dexterous Grey Turner" id="76" fa="Peter Jackson Sep 1990." stars="" number="65." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">The corner crack just to the right.</climb>
<climb name="Dead Can't Dance" id="77" fa="Nick Hancock Sep 2001." stars="**" number="66." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="73" guide.action="submit" grade="24" extra="4Þ">The face with 4 U-bolts just L of Lud Heat. Shares a double FH belay with Action Replay.</climb>
<climb name="Action Replay" id="78" fa="Sam Edwards, Garry Phillips Oct 1995." stars="***" number="67." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="74" guide.action="submit" grade="25" extra="4Þ">Crank up the orange featured wall 3m L of Lud Heat. Shares a double FH belay with Dead Can't Dance.</climb>
<climb name="Lud Heat" id="79" fa="Hamish Jackson Apr 1992." stars="***" number="68." length="13m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="75" guide.action="submit" grade="23" extra="">A continuously overhanging and technical line up the centre of the red buttress left of Razoo. Up the overhanging corner, then through the roof and up the headwall.</climb>
<climb name="Homeless" id="80" fa="Marcel Jackson Sep 1990." stars="*" number="69." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="76" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">A worthwhile traverse along the strong horizontal line at 10m height . Head up Razoo to the overhang on the left. Traverse the obvious line left to finish left of Dead can’t dance. May be easier since the addition of the bolted lines.</climb>
<climb name="Razoo" id="81" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson Jul 1990." stars="" number="70." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="77" guide.action="submit" grade="14" extra="">Climb the face on the outside of the wide sloping crack.</climb>
<climb name="Infundibulum" id="82" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Aug 1990." stars="***" number="71." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="78" guide.action="submit" grade="24" extra="">The thin discontinuous crack up the overhanging face to the right (it looks laid back, but is quite steep). Boulder up to small wires at 3m. Finish up the obvious slanting crack.</climb>
<climb name="Simon Says" id="83" fa="Peter Jackson, Marcel Jackson, Jul 1990." stars="*" number="72." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="79" guide.action="submit" grade="11" extra="">Just round to the right an overhanging start gives way to moderate rock.</climb>
<climb name="Fingerprints" id="84" fa="Marcel, Hamish & Peter Jackson Sep 1990." stars="*" number="73." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="80" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">A very neat little route. A metre or so to the right of Simon Says. Up the steep face to mantel on the flake. Thin wires at this point. Finish direct.</climb>
<climb name="Toenails" id="139" number="74." length="10m" grade="8">The easy corner R of Fingerprints.</climb>
<text id="140">The short block at the far R of the crag has a few boulder problems on it, the best being the L-most arête (about grade 20/21).</text>
<text id="85" class="heading3">Stealth</text>
<climb name="Stealth" id="86" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson Aug 1990." stars="" number="75." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="81" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">A few hundred metres to the right of Gracelands is a smooth sweep of rock with a thin diagonal running up right from low on the left. Begin below the left end. Up to the line at 8m (crux) and place a small piton runner. Continue across the line to finish on the hillside after it breaks up. Easier to the top.</climb>
<text id="87" class="heading3">Milennium</text>
<text id="88" class="Discussion">Ten minutes up the hill above Gracelands on the way to Broadway is a large south west facing block with thin flake blade in a gully on its right. Two climbs exist on the block.</text>
<climb name="Bladerunner" id="89" fa="Nick Hancock 14 Aug 2001." stars="" number="76." length="20m" grade="15">Climb the flake starting on the right. From the top of the flake follow cracks to the summit of the boulder. Unprotected for the first half and descent is best facilitated by counterbalance abseil.</climb>
<climb name="Milennium Falcon" id="90" fa="Nick Hancock 14 Aug 2001." stars="*" number="77." length="15m" grade="21" extra="4Þ">Just right of Blade Runner is an arête sporting 4 u-bolts (no lower-offs).</climb>
<text id="91" class="heading3">Broadway</text>
<text id="92" class="Discussion">Four routes on a crag about 20 minutes up the hill behind Gracelands. Follow the ridge until opposite another Sow-like cliff on the right. Cross the wide, shallow gully with ease and so to the cliff. There are some large flakes in the central broken section where two or three small trees grow. Left of these the angle is steep and inhospitable. The routes described are to the right.</text>
<climb name="Schinus Molle" id="93" fa="Hamish Jackson, Peter Jackson Apr 1992." stars="" number="78." length="45m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="88" guide.action="submit" grade="12" extra="">A ramp leads towards the trees from the right. 1. 30m. Pull up to a jug and mantelshelf. Follow the ramp easily up left to ledges. Climb a short thin crack and go between large blocks to belay on ledge. 2. 15m. Go up on small holds to finish direct.</climb>
<climb name="C 3 P O" id="94" fa="Peter Jackson, Hamish Jackson, Apr 1992." stars="" number="79." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="89" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">Start as for Schinus Molle. 1. 25m. Continue more directly to go over a couple of steep steps and sparse protection. Head for the right hand end of the large rectangular flake. Belay on the ledge at the top of the flake. 2. 10m. Step right and go up the twin fused cracks on excellent rock with little or no protection, an attractive finish.</climb>
<climb name="The Shining Path" id="147" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock, Jun 2014." stars="**" number="80." length="30m" grade="22" extra="9Þ">A very pleasant slab climb up the distinct wide white streak on the right side of the crag. Traverse very delicately L past 2 bolts then climb up L of the streak to eventually cross it Rwards at an undercut. Hard moves Lwards over this then up more slick rock to a DBB.</climb>
<climb name="Tingles" id="95" fa="H.Jackson, P.Jackson, Apr 1992." stars="" number="81." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="90" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">An excellent little route with a serious crux and a delightful finish. Start right of the previous two routes just right of the white streaks. Go up past two diagonal cracks. Go up the thin line on a steep slab and head for the obvious slot at the top where protection can be organised. Continue to the bulge on the left. An easy crack leads through this and continues up to the top.</climb>
<text id="168" class="heading3">Baudin North Face</text>
<text id="169" class="text">At the top of the hill, up behind Gracelands and Milennium, is quite a large north facing cliff with a lightning bolt roof on the left and two wide cracks on the right.</text>
<climb id="172" stars="*" extra="" number="82." name="No Wicked for the Rest" length="35m" grade="23" fa="Nick Hancock 2020">Bridge up the open corner below the LH crack, to the sloping ledge. Hand jam across the roof into the ever widening crack above. Finish past two bolts where the crack widens greatly, to a DBB. 5 & 6 cams essential.</climb>
<text id="96" class="heading3">Speaker Box</text>
<text id="97" class="Discussion">Very roughly, at the same level as the base of Sow Spur and about 200m left is a large rectangular boulder which is clearly visible from almost anywhere in Coles Bay. The easiest approach is via the foot of Sow Spur. When you get to the slab at the base of Sow Spur go left diagonally upwards (rather than following the track rightwards along the base of Sow Spur). After about 200 m of traverse across the hillside (slightly rising) you should be uphill of the boulder of "Sophie's Evil Choice". To continue on to Speaker Box descend from the east end of the Sophie boulder.</text>
<climb name="The Crystal Maze" id="98" fa="Nick Hancock, Oct 2001." stars="**" number="83." length="25m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="93" guide.action="submit" grade="27" extra="5Þ">The blank looking face 10 metres left of Greenvine via 5 U-bolts (no lower-offs).</climb>
<climb name="Greenvine" id="99" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Dec 1989." stars="**" number="84." length="25m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="94" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">A varied and characterful route up a great boulder. Start Below the one crack going up the middle and moving left at top. Boulder up to the glacis below the overhang, place a runner, and make a difficult mantel onto the hanging ledge on the right. Pull round the short impending wall and up to the big jug. Step left and follow the crack ot the top.</climb>
<climb name="Speak Of The Devil" id="100" fa="Nick Hancock, Sophie LeRoux, Oct 2001." stars="*" number="85." length="30m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="95" guide.action="submit" grade="25" extra="">Start up Greenvine and then move right along the dyke to the arête, where a rockover leads to a U-bolt. Pass this with difficulty and finish up the arête.</climb>
<climb name="Sophie's Evil Choice" id="101" fa="Sophie LeRoux, Nick Hancock, Oct 2001." stars="*" number="86." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="96" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="2Þ">Fifty metres above Speaker Box is a boulder with a sharp arête facing northwest. Climb this via 2 U-bolts to a lower off.</climb>
<text id="102" class="heading3">Mystic Cliff</text>
<text id="103" class="Discussion">This crag is located about 50 metres directly below Speaker Box. It can be identified by its very overhanging nature; being composed of big jutting roofs. The easiest approach is probably from above via Speaker Box, as the direct approach from just after the marshy gully on the Sow Spur track is through fairly dense bush.</text>
<climb name="To Light A Candle Is To Cast A Shadow" id="104" fa="Nick Hancock Mar 2002." stars="**" number="87." length="20m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="99" guide.action="submit" grade="26" extra="6Þ">Just left of centre is a left facing corner guarded by a blank roof. Climb up slabby rock to a small bush and a 1 friend in an undercut. Move up right to a U-bolt then stretch across the roof to clip another. Gain the corner crack with difficulty and follow this to the capping roof. Move right to a rest on a spike, then traverse R along a rail to a hard finish straight up. 6 U-bolts in total. No lower offs.</climb>
<text id="105" class="heading2">Mt Mayson</text>
<text id="106" class="text">There are three crags on the upper slopes of Mt Mayson with some OK routes and nice rock. To get there follow the walking track south towards Hazards Beach from the car park. After about 25 minutes the pyramid shaped upper crag is visible on the skyline. Walk another 5 minutes until the track starts going up hill over some slabs where you'll find a few painted yellow arrows marking the walking track. Leave the track below a very prominent and massif boulder, Skull Rock, (605039,332526) on the end of the ridge, and head up, scrub bashing around the right hand side of the boulder to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge-line to the base of the less-than-vertical lower crag. In the middle of the crag is a prominent smooth white water streak.</text>
<text id="155" class="heading3">Skull Rock</text>
<text id="158" class="text">"There is always an easy way round the back", to quote the late Dave Gardner. Probably the best view in town, an ideal place for lunch or an adventure abseil, with first ascent possibilities on the front face....</text>
<image id="161" height="722" src="Skull Rock.jpg"/>
<climb name="Skull Rock" id="159" fa="T.McKenny, Al Beech, Oct, 2016" stars="" number="88." length="5m" grade="3" extra="">Absolute mega classic.....an easy scramble round the back on very sharp rock.</climb>
<text id="108" class="heading3">Mt Mayson Lower Crag</text>
<image id="149" height="438" src="mtmayson 1400.jpg" legendTitle="Mt Mayson" legendy="14" legendx="525" legend="true" width="700">
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<climb>111</climb>
<climb>112</climb>
<climb>115</climb>
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<climb name="Antarctica" id="109" fa="Sam Martin, John Anderson 10 Jun 2001." stars="" number="89." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="106" guide.action="submit" grade="14" extra="">Start 5m to the left of Seams Ideal at the base of a buttress with a few semi-detached blocks. Follow the crack lines to the top.</climb>
<climb name="Seams Ideal" id="110" fa="John Anderson 10 Jun 2001." stars="*" number="90." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="107" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">About 10m to the left of the water streak is a thin seam up the middle of a buttress. Bouldery start with RPs for protection. Climb the seam for 3m then reach out right for holds and up to jug (and a nut placement) at 5m, then more easily to the top. The seam direct has been done on toprope and is a grade harder.</climb>
<climb name="Son Of Scheming Saturn" id="111" fa="Jon Nermut, John Anderson, Sam Martin 10 Jun 2001." stars="*" number="91." length="20m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="108" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">10m to the right of the water streak, past a broken corner and flake, is a shallow corner and crack below a bulge. Climb the face to the corner, then up to the bulge. Pull around on the left (crux) and then climb the juggy slab to the right of the crack to the top. Good value.</climb>
<climb name="Dos Gosanos" id="112" fa="John Anderson, Jon Nermut 28 Dec 1997." stars="*" number="92." length="20m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="109" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">Start 3m to the right of Son of Scheming Saturn. Follow the line of weakness on good holds to the base of an offwidth, then climb the slab to the right to the top.</climb>
<text id="113" class="heading3">Mt Mayson Upper Crag</text>
<text id="114" class="Discussion">From the top of the lower crag head up and left to the base of the higher upper crag. There are a few more lines to be done here.</text>
<climb name="Rattus Splattus" id="115" fa="Jon Nermut, John Anderson 28 Dec 1997." stars="" number="93." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="112" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">1. 25m. Climb the obvious crack line in the centre of the cliff to the large ledge (better than it looks). 2. 10m. Step right and bridge up the triple crack system (crux) to the very top of the buttress.</climb>
<text id="116" class="heading3">Earth Sea Cliffs</text>
<text id="117" class="text">Just past the Mt. Mayson Crags, on the seaward side of the path (west), there is a couple of sea cliffs buried in the mulga but only the most southern, the Main Wall, has been climbed on so far. They are probably a bit exposed in a strong SW wind, particularly if approaching by boat but offer some interesting climbing in a lovely situation.<br/>Both the crags are best approached from the sea for the full atmospheric hit (5 mins in a tinnie from the Fisheries Beach, a bit longer by kayak). <br/>Alternatively, walk from the Mt Amos car park along the Hazards Beach track for 35 min until you cross the open slabs described for the Mt Mayson cliffs. For the unclimbed North Cliff, head down just after a creek (604849, 332469) and wander along the base of the crag, sea level traversing in from the south. <br/>The Main Wall is another five minutes further on: after a creek, leave the track (tape marker, 604649,332352) and scramble down following tapes and cairns,keeping close the to the cliff base.<br/></text>
<image id="162" height="750" src="Main Wall Earth and Sea sharpened (1).jpg" legendTitle="Earth Sea Cliffs" legendy="17" legendx="13" legend="true">
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<climb name="The Farthest Shore" id="118" fa="Nick Hancock, Mark Bennis, Nov 2001." stars="**" number="94." length="30m" grade="26" extra="">Abseil down a groove just left (looking out) of the prow of the cliff and swing past a big thread to belay below the feint central line up the shield. Climb to a good horizontal, then follow the desperate Arapiles-like seam to a good jug on the right. Go up left (#4 Friend) and follow the seam up the final headwall.</climb>
<climb id="167" stars="*" extra="" number="95." name="Zwischenzug" length="20m" grade="17" fa="D Brannigan, N Watkins 03/2007">This line is independent and about half way between 88 and 90. Start just where the almost-horizontal break turns downwards at a dark patch just above the waterline. Climb fairly directly up the natural line of the crack/groove system. Grade is half-remembered so apologies if it isn’t accurate. I recall the climbing being quite good.<br/>Zwischenzug is an “in-between” move in chess. (First done back in 2007 but not reported - after seeing the crag appear recently I searched and unearthed an old photo with a hand-drawn Topo of the two routes we did back then on it. The other one followed a line weaving around 3 Men in a Boat and is too close to it to bother listing separately)</climb>
<climb name="Three Men in a Boat" id="160" fa="T. McKenny, R. Eccleston, T. Chappell, Dec, 2012" stars="*" number="96." length="20m" grade="16" extra=""><br/>Start at high tide mark in the middle of the face, to the left of a low, overhanging corner. Bridge the corner, turning the roof on the right and follow the lefthand crack line to the top. Thread belay.<br/><br/></climb>
<image id="163" height="600" src="North Cliff 2.jpg" printLayout="NotInPrint" legendTitle="North Cliff" legendy="16" legendx="12" legend="true"/>
<text id="133" class="heading2">Slaughterhouse Bay</text>
<text id="134" class="description">At the southern tip of the peninsula. A long walk for little reward according to Neale.</text>
<climb name="Flea in the Ear" id="135" fa="Neale Smith, Bruce Cameron, Easter 1981." stars="" number="97." length="15m" grade="18">On the buttress looking like a dog's head. Follow the line via the ear.</climb>
<climb name="Sniffing Assholes With My Friend" id="136" fa="Bruce Cameron, Neale Smith, Easter 1981." stars="" number="98." length="13m" grade="17">A crack on the right side of the same buttress.</climb>
</guide>
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