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<text class="Discussion">The cliffs along the coastline between Bluestone Bay and the Nuggets have been the most intensively climbed cliffs on the peninsula since their discovery by climbers in about, 1974. These cliffs are generally characterised by good rock, good protection, easy access and morning sun.</text><text class="description">The coastal cliffs are normally accessed from the Bluestone Bay campsite. Refer to the coastal cliffs map, and the individual crag descriptions for access information. Routes (and cliffs) are presented left to right (south to north).</text><text class="heading3">The Nuggets</text><text class="description">Climbing exists on the nuggets. The descriptions weren't provided in time for publication, but as far as I can tell several parties have camped on the nugget nearest the mainland. No water exists on the islands. The climbs that were done were apparently of reasonable quality and the rock was good.</text><text class="heading3">Lego Area</text><text class="description">This is the southernmost developed cliff in this area. From the end of the road to Little Bluestone Bay, head uphill to the right (inland), then left to cross a creek bed above First Ramp. From here move southwards towards the coast, walk past Alchemy Wall and Rubik's Cube to the gully leading down to the sea. A prominent buttress lies just north of this gully.</text><climb name="King Constipator 4" stars="***" grade="40m" length="24" number="">Start at the hanging arete below the u-bolts on the right of the main butress. The crux is past the final overhang at the end of pitch 1. If you're a bit on the short side these few moves may be a fair bit harder than 24 and hard to aid. Thankfully the first ascentionist has provided ring bolts, so you can either lower-off or, more preferably, belay there then traverse right and ascend the pinnacle from behind; allowing the completion of the worthwhile 2nd pitch. 1) 24. Up the arete past several cams and bolts to a ledge, continue up the slab past another bolt to another ledge. Clip another bolt and climb the overhanging flake to gain yet another ledge and a well needed break before tackling the final overhang. Belay on top of the pinnacle at the bolt. You'll need cams from 1-4 if you don't want to get too scared. 2) 21. Step across the void to gain the main part of the cliff and continue up the funky corner past 2 bolts. N.Hancock, A.Bissett (alt), Aug 01.</climb><climb name="Lego" stars="*" grade="21" length="25m" number=""> Full name: Where's My Mum, Where's My Dad, Where's My Lunch, Where's My Doll, Where's My Fucking Lego. Climb discontinuous cracks up the front of the buttress, passing several horizontal breaks with a tricky mantel. Crosses King Constipator and is probably superseded by it N.Deka, Apr 88.</climb><climb name="Demolition Darby" stars="" grade="18" length="10m" number=""> Obvious crack starting from wall parallel to ramp. P.Darby, Apr 88.</climb><text class="Discussion">The following climb is located a further 50m left of Lego Butress proper:</text><climb name="I See You Baby (Shakin' that Ass)" stars="" grade="15" length="20m" number=""> The easy slab and continuation groove about 50m left of Lego Buttress. Jason Holland, Mark Hynes, Sep 01.</climb><text class="heading3">Rubik's Cube</text><text class="description">The so-called Rubik's Cube is the small series of cliffs that form a very vague cube like shape, east of Tetragamatron. It is best to get a line on this when first walking down to little bluestone bay. Access is best facilitated by scrambling down on the seaward side (SE).</text><text class="Discussion">The orange face: this is the left-most face and runs parallel to the ocean.</text><climb name="Analysis, Statistics" stars="" grade="18" length="15m" number="1."> Start as for Interval but step left after 3m and climb hand-crack. Step left again at ledge and up incipient cracks to top. A fine climb to the end. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Interval" stars="" grade="15" length="15m" number="2."> Start 4m left of corner up hand-crack to top. D.Batten, D.Bruce, Mar 89.</climb><text class="Discussion">The yellow face: the next face right, perpendicular to the ocean.</text><climb name="The Horror" stars="" grade="20" length="8m" number="3."> Far left hand side of the face. Up steep wall and crack to top with awkward finish. J.Pinkard, Bill Baxter, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Blinking Idiot" stars="*" grade="24" length="8m" number="4."> The crack line right of The Horror. Adequately protected by wires and a 1 friend near the top. Move left to the frail looking jug just before the top. Roger Parkyn, Sam Edwards, Mar 96.</climb><text class="Discussion">The green face: next right</text><climb name="Snakes, Ladders" stars="" grade="24" length="8m" number="5."> Steep, flared crack with layaways on both faces. Difficult to protect. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Bill's Climb" stars="*" grade="19" length="8m" number="6."> Up steep hand crack starting in the corner. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="a b" stars="" grade="15" length="8m" number="7."> A fun climb. The corner crack which is both varied and well protected. D.Bruce, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Easy Solo" stars="" grade="12" length="8m" number="8."> J.Pinkard, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Digit" stars="*" grade="20" length="7m" number="9."> Start 3m left of Spirit of Place. Up crack and layaway, surprisingly to right, otherwise you'll end up on the other climb. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Spirit of Place" stars="**" grade="21" length="6m" number="10."> Ascent of left trending diagonal confronted by thin balancy moves. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Soft Grit" stars="*" grade="21" length="6m" number="11."> The arete immediately right of Spirit of Place. Up into undercling and continue to thin crack (good wires here). Continue straight up the arete or dyno right to good holds and top. Norm Selby, Apr 2001.</climb><climb name="Tangent" stars="" grade="16" length="6m" number="12."> Glorified boulder problem up crack, out under roof and bridge to finish. Nick Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 89.</climb><text class="Discussion">The black face: the next face right</text><climb name="Fractional" stars="" grade="21" length="12m" number="13."> Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up handcrack above. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Pink Solo" stars="" grade="10" length="6m" number="14."> Easy face. J.Pinkard, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Denominator" stars="" grade="15" length="6m" number="15."> Obvious arete about 5m left of Rhomboid. Nick Deka, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Rhomboid" stars="" grade="17" length="10m" number="16."> The arete immediately left of the overhang. Pleasant climbing up hand cracks. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Dynamo Hum" stars="" grade="22" length="10m" number="17."> Climb the steep wall just right of the crack. D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, 1989.</climb><climb name="Left Crack" stars="" grade="22" length="10m" number="18."> Climb the overhanging crack. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, 1989.</climb><climb name="Geometry" stars="" grade="17" length="10m" number="19."> About 4m left of the arete, with a bouldery start. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Hypothetical" stars="" grade="17" length="10m" number="20."> Up right arete. Take crack to top. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 89.</climb><text class="Discussion">The red face: Again the next face right.</text><climb name="Roxanne's Corner" stars="" grade="8" length="12m" number="22."> The easy corner where the Red face meets the overhanging Blue face. Roxanne Wells, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="D Squared r" stars="" grade="15" length="12m" number="23."> Just right of the centre of the face. A good route with RP protection. D.Bruce, D.Batten, R.Wells, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Logarithm" stars="" grade="14" length="12m" number="24."> The far right arete. Excellent crack climbing. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 89.</climb><text class="heading3">Tetragrammaton Buttress</text><text class="description">A large white piece of rock with some yellow stains on it. The cliff is located between Rubiks Cube and Alchemy Wall. It is hidden behind Alchemy Wall when viewed from Little Bluestone Bay. The best option is to rap in, but access is possible down the gully on the Rubiks Cube side of the cliff. To use this access head down to just above Rubiks Cube and work around to Tetragammatron. It's possible to take the gully direct, but it's very loose and dangerous.</text><climb name="The Drivel Dies" stars="" grade="20" length="35m" number="1."> To the left of the gully that splits the face. The collection of finger and layback cracks left of the large chimney, climb these and when they run out step right into the chimney and onto the top. Dave Gardner, T. Meldrum, Tony McKenny, J. McKenny, Jan 94.</climb><climb name="The Devil Drives" stars="" grade="21" length="40m" number="2."> To the right of the gully that splits the face, on the left side of the wall. This route wonders up the wall to the right of the gully, but left of the difficult looking face to the ledge. Finish up pitch 2 of The Boy who Cried Wolf. E.Lees, N.Smith, 1982.</climb><climb name="The Boy Who Cried Wolf" stars="" grade="20" length="40m" number="3.">This whole route is slightly overhung. Right of the above, below an obvious v-squeeze chimney at about 20m. 1) 25m. The curving cracks with hard mantelshelf and difficult off-width. Up the steep difficult crack for 10m to a difficult step right and mantelshelf which leads to an awkward exit up a flared squeeze chimney. 2) 15m. Continue straight up above offwidth. John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nov 81.</climb><climb name="The Little Red Hen" stars="*" grade="22" length="40m" number="4."> The crack right of the above Quite hard. Second pitch as above. John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nov 81.</climb><climb name="Chicken Surprise" stars="" grade="22" length="12m" number="5."> A second pitch to Little Red Hen. The terrace half way up Tetragamatron Buttress is at two levels, the left being 1.5m lower than the right half. The line starts at the step between the two. At the top traverse right past a small tree, then up. Pete Steane, Adrian Herrington, 1996.</climb><climb name="Tetragrammaton" stars="**" grade="21" length="40m" number="6.">A good hard climb. Locate the most obvious finish on the right of the face and follow this in a straight line to the bottom. Start here. 1) 25m. Straight forward jamming with a couple of awkward moves around the bulge. 2) 15m. Start with difficult thin crack, then follow overhanging jam crack to top. J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka, Nov 81.</climb><climb name="No More Mr Nice Guy" stars="***" grade="19" length="25m" number="7.">A great route, one of the best at the grade. The climbing is varied and the protection very good. At the lowest point of the arete right of Tetragamatron. 1) 25m. follow cracks to half height then hand traverse left onto the ledge of Tetragamatron. 2) 15m. Either continue as for Tetragamatron pitch 2 (21), or more easily scamble left along ledge and up. John Fisher, Bill Chilvers, Feb 94.</climb><climb name="Edge of the World" stars="" grade="19" length="40m" number="8."> This route is on the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Tetragamatron Buttress, visible from the top of this buttress. Descent is by abseil. The line on the left of the wall, sustained and a little loose. R.McMahon, J.Fisher, B.Chilvers, Apr 94.</climb><text class="heading3">Alchemy Wall</text><text class="description">The best face in the whole Bluestone area. The cliff that can turn cottage cheese into gold.</text><text class="description">The compact wall visible from across Little Bluestone Bay. A distinct right leaning crack can be seen on the wall's left hand end (Hermes Trismegistus). To get there head up and right from the road end at little Bluestone Bay. Follow and faint pad and the cliff tops around towards the cliff. Go through a dry creek bed looking gully and continue for a few hundred meters. Alchemy Wall is marked by a cairn. The approach takes around 10 minutes Abseil or a scrambledown at the northern end.</text><climb name="Monte Ccarlo" stars="" grade="18" length="17m" number="1."> Left of the main Alchemy Face, on the left end of the seaward facing wall about 10m left of Coolibah Crack. The off-width corner. A bit of a struggle, with the hard part of the off-width avoided by moving into crack at right near the top. John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nov 81.</climb><climb name="Evelyn's Climb" stars="" grade="20" length="15m" number="2."> The route left of Coolibah Crack, just right of Monte Carlo. Starts as a tight overhanging hand crack to good hands and easier climbing. Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, B.Maddison, P.Cullen, Jan 82.</climb><climb name="Coolibah Crack" stars="**" grade="19" length="20m" number="3."> The climb is located round left on Alchemy Face and is a sharp, arching crack up face with an orange hue. Awkward balance moves up initial flaring groove coming out onto leftward leaning crack up steep face. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Immaculate Misconception" stars="***" grade="26" length="20m" number="4."> The arete right of Coolibah Crack provides excellent climbing. The protection is good, comprising wires and bolts. Follow the arete to the overlap, turn this and head up the right side of the arete to the top. Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Aug 01.</climb><climb name="Hermes Playmate" stars="*" grade="22" length="20m" number="5."> Start up Hermes Trismegistus. Climb the cracks for 7m then left onto the face and directly up to some obvious underclings below the bulge. Move left few metres then up for 4m. Finish up the seam. Simon Carter, Roxanne Wells, Feb 95.</climb><climb name="Hermes Trismegistus" stars="**" grade="21" length="27m" number="6."> The diagonal crack on the left of the seaward face provides steep and sustained climbing for its length. Take care with friends in the inward flaring crack, hexes are very useful if you still own any John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Captivating Passions" stars="*" grade="25" length="20m" number="7."> Right of Hermes Trismegistus is a discontinuous line leading up to two u-bolts. Climb this past the bolts to the top (no lower-offs so back-jump or rap of a tree). Grant Rowbottom, 1999.</climb><climb name="Walking the Plank" stars="**" grade="19" length="25m" number="8."> The crack system right of Captivating Passions. The cracks run out on the upper face, forcing a rightwards traverse into Blue-eyed Blonde. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Blue-eyed Blonde" stars="***" grade="19" length="25m" number="9."> Follow cracks to bulge, just right of Walking the Plank. Over bulge to top. Good pro. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Alchemy" stars="***" grade="21" length="25m" number="10."> The next crack system right. Thin moves at start easing off to good flake edge, then a reach for a ledge. Mantel crux followed by finger hand crack. John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Nov 81.</climb><text class="Discussion">The next two climbs are located on a boulder wall at the top of Alchemy Wall.</text><climb name="Fools Gold" stars="" grade="15" length="10m" number="11."> A nice little corner on the left end of the tier above Alchemy Face. Awkward moves to gain ledge on arete. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Exquisite Tenderness" stars="*" grade="28" length="15m" number="12."> The thin bolted (5) face right of Fools Gold. Grant Rowbottom, 1999.</climb><text class="heading3">Second Ramp</text><text class="description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a small, dry creek bed shortly after you turn south (5 minutes after leaving the road end). This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the top of the second ramp.</text><climb name="Dodgy Ringpulls" stars="" grade="18" length="12m" number=""> Start at a small downward pointing flake left of Double Deka. Climb the initial overhang then continue up the lower angled rock to the top. Kim Robinson, Aug 1997.</climb><climb name="Double Deka" stars="" grade="12" length="15m" number=""> About 2m left of Firewalker. Crux is laybacking down low, finishing up same slab as Firewalker. Nick Deka solo.</climb><climb name="Firewalker" stars="" grade="15" length="16m" number=""> The short corner at the left end of the short steep face which turns into a slab at 4 - 5m. Awkward moves in initial corner. Finish up easy slab. Neale Smith (solo), Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Ogma Sun Face" stars="***" grade="19" length="15m" number=""> The next line downhill and 3m right. Mainly finger crack with a long reach out right to gain the easy slab. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Steel Springs" stars="**" grade="17" length="15m" number=""> Next line right. A graceful corner finishing up slab. Bridging moves with tricky protection. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Curious Fanatic" stars="**" grade="22" length="15m" number=""> On the face 6m up left of the easy corner. A difficult boulder problem start gives way to flaring, slippery locks. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="First in First Served" stars="*" grade="21" length="10m" number=""> About 3m left of Easy Corner, is a short overhanging face right of Curious Fanatic. Dynamic bouldery start, easy to top. Robert McMahon, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Easy Corner" stars="" grade="10" length="10m" number=""> The obvious rightmost corner about 20m left of the sea. Neale Smith (solo), Oct 81.</climb><text class="Discussion">The rock wall right of this corner is short and easy. Go for your life.</text><climb name="Mathonwy" stars="" grade="12" length="15m" number=""> A white wall down the Second Ramp. The line goes up the left of the face just right of the corner. Good holds - steep start and easy later. Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Doesn't Matter" stars="" grade="12" length="15m" number=""> Further right, up the centre of the face. Same as above. Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><text class="heading3">First Ramp</text><text class="description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a tiny creek shortly after you turn south. This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the left end of the First Ramp.</text><climb name="Furless" stars="" grade="17" length="15m" number=""> Past first ramp is a striking block with an overhanging base. Follow the crack up the seaward face. Kim Robinson, Aug 97.</climb><climb name="Bearded Clam Corner" stars="*" grade="18" length="10m" number=""> The first corner on the small black face. Crux move of thin bridging about a body length off the ground. Straight forward and pleasant bridging all the way with good protection. Neale Smith, 1981.</climb><climb name="Fine wine, women and precious precious things" stars="*" grade="22" length="10m" number=""> The finely detailed black stained face just right of Bearded Clam Corner. Sustained, and has poor RP protection. R.McMahon, R.Wells, 1989.</climb><climb name="Triptolemus" stars="" grade="17" length="10m" number=""> Further down the ramp are several lines on a steep face. The first is a black corner and the second is this corner. Quite technical and steep face climbing. N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Velchanos (demon)" stars="" grade="17" length="22m" number=""> Just left of the main buttress. The route takes a direct line up through the overhanging bulge. Strenuous but not sustained. N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Whinging Poms" stars="" grade="17" length="22m" number=""> The open book corner to the right of Velchanos. Up that (too easy), pull through overhang (too hard) and up crack above (too loose). D.Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 90.</climb><climb name="Feed the man meat" stars="" grade="17" length="23m" number=""> The high large block with a crusty orange face. Through roof onto steep face. Poor protection. Marc Tierney, Micheal Fox, Andrew Brooks, Mar 89.</climb><climb name="Taliesin" stars="" grade="16" length="22m" number=""> On the first major buttress you come to is a diagonal line starting lower left on the main buttress passing through roof near the top (crux) followed by good but easy corner to finish. Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, Oct 81.</climb><climb name="Ygdrassill" stars="" grade="17" length="15m" number=""> On the right on this face. Very balancey, commiting moves rounding rooves, move leftwards to gain jams. Easy to top. Robert McMahon, John Fantini , Oct 81.</climb><text class="heading3">Travel Land</text><text class="description">The first sizable piece of rock north of Little Bluestone Bay. To get there head down the track to Little Bluestone Bay and turn left at the end and walk 50m. Easily approached from above or below. You'll be able to recoginise it by the shiny new bolts Norm has placed.</text><climb name="Hugs 'n Kisses" stars="" grade="23" length="12m" number=""> Off-width. Jay Audenart, 1998.</climb><climb name="Tribute" stars="**" grade="22" length="15m" number=""> Start in corner up slab face with 5 U bolts. N.Selby 12 10 2002</climb><climb name="Ekeko" stars="*" grade="21" length="14m" number=""> Start just right, stick clip first bolt and up steep face, 5 U bolts. N.Selby, 25 08 2002</climb><climb name="The Path of the Enigma" stars="" grade="23" length="12m" number=""> Start 2m to the right, stick clip the first bolt and go up the arete past 4 U bolts. N.Selby, 12 10 2002</climb><climb name="Panchamama" stars="" grade="16" length="12m" number=""> Off-width. Good fun. N.Selby, C.Walker, E.Bradley, A.Williams</climb><text class="Discussion">The following routes are staight under Travel Land, at two rap bolts on a point.</text><climb name="Mad Moroccan Cabbies" stars="**" grade="23" length="10m" number=""> Follow the dyke, past 3 u-bolts. Norm Selby Dec 02.</climb><climb name="501 Bodega" stars="*" grade="22" length="10m" number=""> The arete with 2 u-bolts plus gear. Norm Selby, Dec 02.</climb><climb name="Disco Dancing Vegetable Bus" stars="" grade="21" length="10m" number=""> Right hand face and crack, gear to 1 u-bolt. Norm Selby, Dec 02.</climb><text class="heading3">Sentry Box</text><text class="description">From the end of the track at White Stack, the Sentry Box is easily seen about 200m south. It is the big square block with the orange white face. The upper half of Sentry Box takes the crack which splits this face.</text><climb name="Sentry Box" stars="*" grade="19" length="15m" number=""> On the left hand arete at the base of the buttress. Up slightly left of the arete with some awkward balance moves to gain a shallow corner to get under the block. Traverse right to gain the crack and straight up, first on fingerlocks and then good jams. F.Moon, W.Moon, 1980.</climb><climb name="Rainbow Groove" stars="" grade="21" length="15m" number=""> The slim groove on the left arete. Protected by RP's. Dave Gray, Carol Hurst.</climb><text class="Discussion">There is possibly a climb just south of White Stack. You may find it with this description.</text><climb name="Mr. Whimpy Bites the Dust" stars="" grade="19" length="40m" number=""> Directly below the most southerly campsite, the first obvious line visible to the south of the Easter Island lookout. A brilliant route with a great hand-crack at two thirds height. P.Hairsine, S.Hairsine, Jan 88.</climb>

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