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South Sister Area
by Ashley Mason
Situated at the eastern end of the Nicholas Range, above St. Mary’s lies South Sister, a beautiful rocky peak rising to 832m, with transmission masts and fire tower on top. Typical dolerite crags abound the mountain offering some excellent climbs, with a strong emphasis on cranking cracks, as well as some varied routes. The rock is generally sound, and existing routes are clean, but care should still be taken of loose rock. All routes are naturally protected, so a full rack including hexs and cams is necessary.
As the crags face different directions the decision where to climb may depend on: weather conditions, time of year, and time of day. West facing crags are best in summer, especially afternoons, whereas the eastern facing crags are good any time, especially in winter, when the cold westerlies whistle over the top of the mountain and the rock is bathed in winter sun, it is generally dry, though not recommended during an easterly.
The crags have a friendly atmosphere, are a great place to perfect your jamming skills and are a good training ground for longer routes, as many cracks are single pitch yet sustained.
To my knowledge, South Sister was first visited by climbers in 1984 when the party R McMahon, G Narkowicz, D Kearnes, & H Mohler etc. led some excellent lines on the largest east facing buttress; Canyon Buttress. The mountain may have received visits after this initial period, but its climbing potential was rediscovered in Autumn 1995 by myself, P Wines & P Witton, accessing new crags, cleaning cracks, and putting up new routes. Many undescribed lines and problems have been top-roped, due to lack of placements or too hard.
On a clear day, views of the east coast from Freycinet to Flinders Islands, The Fingal Valley and the mountains of the North East can be gained. The flora, fauna, geology, etc. are fascinating, but that’s another story, enjoy this magical place and stay safe.
Access from St.Marys is via Gardiners Creek Rd (past the hospital), turn right at the crossroads (left is back to highway), up and along Top Marshes Rd for about 3km, and turn left up to South Sister lookout. All outcrops are described in an anticlockwise direction around the mountain, from the main track, and climbs from left to right. From the end of the road, follow the main track. The first outcrop up to the right is “Carpark Buttress”, leave the track when level with it (cairn).
For information and any new routes climbed, please contact me to keep up to date. A Mason, St Marys, Post Office. 7215. Ph. 63722334. (or, temporarily, on 63725440) (e-mail rambleon4me@yahoo.com.au)
Car Park Buttress
The first three lines start from the grassy ledge.
Fat Jam 10m 19
Climb thin corner and face to ledge, to gain offwidth arm jam (crux). TR A.Mason,1997.
** Sheavinos 10m 16
Up steep face using twin cracks to gain ledge, lay back corner to top. P.Wines, Dec/96.
Laid Back 10m 14
Climb cracks to sloping ledge, then layback to top. A.Mason, Nov/96.
There are some good top rope problems on the rock below, inc. a small pinnicle. Up and around is another compact wall with several lines.
Oh Well 9m 14
Up chimney and out right on face holds. A.Mason, Sep/96.
Problem One 9m 18
2m from corner, a small triangular ledgr in niche is gained delicately, contiue straight up. A.Mason (TR as no placements), Jul/96.
Caramel Slice Buttress
This area is best accessed from the last lefthand bend on the road. Follow a small track contouring north, passing some small outcrops, until you reach a larger crag about 5mins away. This is the beginning of Caramel Slice Buttress.
Stay Sharp 11m 15
Grunt up the offwidth using the sharp aret. No pro. TR Ash & Plonky, 1995.
5m down on a large ledge next to a big white gum is a clean face.
** Exit Stage Three 25m 17
Climb the face/thin crack on left hand side to under cling, to first stage, up middle of face, step left to gain offwidth crack on arete, a balancy move, but becomes easier towards the top. A beaut. Belay, same as Caramel Slice. P.Wines, Jul/95.
Caramel Slice 25m 16
Ascend face to undercling, layback and straight up to horizontal break. Step right, onto sharp edge, gain the wide crack with difficulty and continue to the top. A harder/bolder varient is to go left from the sharp edge, onto face and straight up. A Mason, May/95.
Around the corner is another face.
** Ramble On 20m 18
Climb the blind crack on the right side of face to horizontal break. Move delicately up face on finger flakes, (2RPs) to top left corner. A.Mason, Mar/97.
10m further on is another clean face with a large flake going half way up. The left side has been top roped.
*** Science Circus 22m 15
Layback the right-hand edge of the flake to the slabby face. Move up tending right to crack, then step right and up face to finish. Classic. A.Mason, Jul/96.
* Gritstone Roots 22m 18
Start 1m to right of chimney using small square undercling, move delicately up face to spike runner, accend slab to 2nd spike runner and contiue easily to top. A bit run-out! A.Mason, Jul/97.
Hot Piss 22m 19
A heady face climb. G Narkowicz, 1984.
Judgment Over the Dead 24m 22
At the lowest point a steep, slightly overhanging face is broken by a thin crack, layback this on finger tips (crux), continue up crack and face to top. G.Narkowicz, 1984.
Canyon Buttress
Walk in a northerly direction, gradually accending until large twin buttress. The first line is on the left of the southern buttress.
Barley Straw 18m 15
Climb the obvious crack system to the top. H.Mohler, 1984.
Wide Open 18m 21
A delicate face climb, finishing up the righthand crack. Sparse protection. R.McMahon, 1984.
*** Small Beers and Thin Books 22m 19
Bridge the twin finger cracks, contiue to top. Classic. G.Narkowicz, 1984.
Lawywers, Guns, & Money 22m 19
Grunt up offwidth crack. R.McMahon, 1984.
** The Way We Were 22m 17
Climb corner, then bridge between wide and thin cracks to top of piller, continue to top. R.McMahon, 1984.
Leather Joyboys 22m 23
Follow the thin crack on small holds and fingerlocks (awaits a 2nd accent). G.Narkowicz, 1984.
A few metres over on the Northern Buttress is a longish hand crack.
** Knee Deep in Gore 22m 20
From the grassy ledge, follow the hand crack directly to top. G.Narkowicz, 1984.
*** Sizzling Snags 25m 18
Start at low point, climb arête tending rightwards and on to big ledge (belay). Step up and left (crux) on small holds, becoming easier towards top. R.McMahon, 1984.
Happy Cummings 15m 18
A grunt of a climb.
* Have Hans, Will Jam 18m 18
A classic hand crack. R.McMahon, 1984.
Just Slipped In 22m 17
Bridge between crack and offwidth edge on face holds to horizontal break, Follow crack to top. A.Mason, Feb/01.
*** Emptiness, Eagles, & Snow 18m 20
Beaut layback/finger crack, becoming offwidth (crux). G.Narkowicz, 1984.
** Pleasure in the Pain 10m 19
A short finger/hand crack. G.Narkowicz, 1984.
* Solitary Pleasures 9m 18
Another short vertical crack line. G.Narkowicz (solo), 1984.
On a small overhanging crag, in front of the main southern buttress, is a thin crack.
Manx Minx 7m 20
Attempt to climb this overhanging gritty slit. G.Narkowicz, 1984.
Absent Friends Buttress
There is one more decent buttress on this side of the mountain. Walk in a westerly direction for about 10mins. This characteristic lump of dolerite offers some excellent fingerlicking cracks, all have been top roped, but only one has been led.
* Absent Friends 16m 18
The furthest crack on the right. Climb to horizontal break on good holds, then hand jam to top. A.Mason, Oct/97.
Dogwood Buttress
From here you can walk up, tending rightwards to the ridge, to find Dogwood Buttress, or access it from the last building on the main ridge, heading west, but stay on the northern side, about 5mins to top from building. This is a small buttress facing south with two clean crack lines, both have been top roped and would go at about 21 and 22 respectively.
Dinosaur Buttress
A couple of minutes scrambling east is a larger face (opposite main pinnicle).
Aging Dinosaur 22m 17
Climb the obvious crack with a left zig at half height, which joins the left crack finishing as a spike. A.Mason, Dec/02.
Breakaway Buttress
To access this cliff, walk up the main track to the last building on the ridge. Walk down left hand gully and bear left to walk out on top of buttress. Abseil, or walk down. From the lowest point, the left hand crack system is:
** The Ho Chi Min Trail 45m 17
Start at left side, climb up to first ledge. Climb crack using pocket on left to gain next ledge, and continue up left crack to third ledge. Follow wide crack to top. P.Wines, Oct/96.
** Tin Pan Alley 45m 18
A few meters right is a thin crack, step up 1m and layback to reach lip on left and mantelshelf, and up to ledge. Delicately climb slab and up grove becoming easier, to large ledge. Follow crack above to top. A.Mason, Oct/96.
Tea Pot Rocks
This is an outcrop on the eastern end of the Nicholas Range. The main crags face north, about halfway along is:
Tea Pot Crack 27m 16
Climb the obvious large crack, easily at first, becomming more difficult, hand jam at half height, and bridge offwidth to finish under protruding flake. A Mason, Apr/96.
Further on is a clean west facing wall, broken by a crack.
** Red Light Jam 20m 18
Climb the hand crack, becoming easier towards top as the crack veers left. A.Mason, May/96.
x</text><text
class="text">climb</text><text
class="text">South Sister Area</text><text
class="text">by Ashley Mason</text><text
class="text">Situated at the eastern end of the Nicholas Range, above St. Mary’s lies South Sister, a beautiful rocky peak rising to 832m, with transmission masts and fire tower on top. Typical dolerite crags abound the mountain offering some excellent climbs, with a strong emphasis on cranking cracks, as well as some varied routes. The rock is generally sound, and existing routes are clean, but care should still be taken of loose rock. All routes are naturally protected, so a full rack including hexs and cams is necessary.</text><text
class="text">As the crags face different directions the decision where to climb may depend on: weather conditions, time of year, and time of day. West facing crags are best in summer, especially afternoons, whereas the eastern facing crags are good any time, especially in winter, when the cold westerlies whistle over the top of the mountain and the rock is bathed in winter sun, it is generally dry, though not recommended during an easterly.</text><text
class="text">The crags have a friendly atmosphere, are a great place to perfect your jamming skills and are a good training ground for longer routes, as many cracks are single pitch yet sustained.</text><climb
extra="when the party R McMahon, G Narkowicz, D Kearnes, & H Mohler etc. led some excellent lines on the largest east facing buttress; Canyon Buttress. The mountain may have received visits after this initial period, but its climbing potential was rediscovered in Autumn 1995 by myself, P Wines & P Witton, accessing new crags, cleaning cracks, and putting up new routes. Many undescribed lines and problems have been top-roped, due to lack of placements or too hard."
grade="1984"
name="To my knowledge, South Sister was first visited by climbers in"></climb><text
class="text">On a clear day, views of the east coast from Freycinet to Flinders Islands, The Fingal Valley and the mountains of the North East can be gained. The flora, fauna, geology, etc. are fascinating, but that’s another story, enjoy this magical place and stay safe.</text><text
class="text">Access from St.Marys is via Gardiners Creek Rd (past the hospital), turn right at the crossroads (left is back to highway), up and along Top Marshes Rd for about 3km, and turn left up to South Sister lookout. All outcrops are described in an anticlockwise direction around the mountain, from the main track, and climbs from left to right. From the end of the road, follow the main track. The first outcrop up to the right is “Carpark Buttress”, leave the track when level with it (cairn).
For information and any new routes climbed, please contact me to keep up to date. A Mason, St Marys, Post Office. 7215. Ph. 63722334. (or, temporarily, on 63725440) (e-mail rambleon4me@yahoo.com.au)</text><text
class="text">Car Park Buttress</text><text
class="text">The first three lines start from the grassy ledge.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Fat Jam">Climb thin corner and face to ledge, to gain offwidth arm jam (crux). TR A.Mason,1997.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Sheavinos"
stars=" ** ">Up steep face using twin cracks to gain ledge, lay back corner to top. P.Wines, Dec/96.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="10m"
name="Laid Back">Climb cracks to sloping ledge, then layback to top. A.Mason, Nov/96.</climb><text
class="text">There are some good top rope problems on the rock below, inc. a small pinnicle. Up and around is another compact wall with several lines.</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="9m"
name="Oh Well">Up chimney and out right on face holds. A.Mason, Sep/96.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="9m"
name="Problem One">2m from corner, a small triangular ledgr in niche is gained delicately, contiue straight up. A.Mason (TR as no placements), Jul/96.</climb><text
class="text">Caramel Slice Buttress</text><text
class="text">This area is best accessed from the last lefthand bend on the road. Follow a small track contouring north, passing some small outcrops, until you reach a larger crag about 5mins away. This is the beginning of Caramel Slice Buttress.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="11m"
name="Stay Sharp">Grunt up the offwidth using the sharp aret. No pro. TR Ash & Plonky, 1995.
5m down on a large ledge next to a big white gum is a clean face.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Exit Stage Three"
stars=" ** ">Climb the face/thin crack on left hand side to under cling, to first stage, up middle of face, step left to gain offwidth crack on arete, a balancy move, but becomes easier towards the top. A beaut. Belay, same as Caramel Slice. P.Wines, Jul/95.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="25m"
name="Caramel Slice">Ascend face to undercling, layback and straight up to horizontal break. Step right, onto sharp edge, gain the wide crack with difficulty and continue to the top. A harder/bolder varient is to go left from the sharp edge, onto face and straight up. A Mason, May/95.</climb><text
class="text">Around the corner is another face.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Ramble On"
stars=" ** ">Climb the blind crack on the right side of face to horizontal break. Move delicately up face on finger flakes, (2RPs) to top left corner. A.Mason, Mar/97.</climb><text
class="text">10m further on is another clean face with a large flake going half way up. The left side has been top roped.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="22m" name="Science Circus"
stars=" *** ">Layback the right-hand edge of the flake to the slabby face. Move up tending right to crack, then step right and up face to finish. Classic. A.Mason, Jul/96.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Gritstone Roots"
stars=" * ">Start 1m to right of chimney using small square undercling, move delicately up face to spike runner, accend slab to 2nd spike runner and contiue easily to top. A bit run-out! A.Mason, Jul/97.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="22m"
name="Hot Piss">A heady face climb. G Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="24m"
name="Judgment Over the Dead">At the lowest point a steep, slightly overhanging face is broken by a thin crack, layback this on finger tips (crux), continue up crack and face to top. G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><text
class="text">Canyon Buttress</text><text
class="text">Walk in a northerly direction, gradually accending until large twin buttress. The first line is on the left of the southern buttress.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="18m"
name="Barley Straw">Climb the obvious crack system to the top. H.Mohler, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="18m"
name="Wide Open">A delicate face climb, finishing up the righthand crack. Sparse protection. R.McMahon, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="22m"
name="Small Beers and Thin Books"
stars=" *** ">Bridge the twin finger cracks, contiue to top. Classic. G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="22m"
name="Lawywers, Guns, & Money">Grunt up offwidth crack. R.McMahon, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="22m" name="The Way We Were"
stars=" ** ">Climb corner, then bridge between wide and thin cracks to top of piller, continue to top. R.McMahon, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="22m"
name="Leather Joyboys">Follow the thin crack on small holds and fingerlocks (awaits a 2nd accent). G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><text
class="text">A few metres over on the Northern Buttress is a longish hand crack.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="22m" name="Knee Deep in Gore"
stars=" ** ">From the grassy ledge, follow the hand crack directly to top. G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Sizzling Snags"
stars=" *** ">Start at low point, climb arête tending rightwards and on to big ledge (belay). Step up and left (crux) on small holds, becoming easier towards top. R.McMahon, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="15m"
name="Happy Cummings">A grunt of a climb.</climb><climb extra=""
grade="18" length="18m" name="Have Hans, Will Jam"
stars=" * ">A classic hand crack. R.McMahon, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="22m"
name="Just Slipped In">Bridge between crack and offwidth edge on face holds to horizontal break, Follow crack to top. A.Mason, Feb/01.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="18m"
name="Emptiness, Eagles, & Snow"
stars=" *** ">Beaut layback/finger crack, becoming offwidth (crux). G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Pleasure in the Pain"
stars=" ** ">A short finger/hand crack. G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="9m" name="Solitary Pleasures"
stars=" * ">Another short vertical crack line. G.Narkowicz (solo), 1984.</climb><text
class="text">On a small overhanging crag, in front of the main southern buttress, is a thin crack.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="7m"
name="Manx Minx">Attempt to climb this overhanging gritty slit. G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><text
class="text">Absent Friends Buttress</text><text
class="text">There is one more decent buttress on this side of the mountain. Walk in a westerly direction for about 10mins. This characteristic lump of dolerite offers some excellent fingerlicking cracks, all have been top roped, but only one has been led.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="16m" name="Absent Friends"
stars=" * ">The furthest crack on the right. Climb to horizontal break on good holds, then hand jam to top. A.Mason, Oct/97.</climb><text
class="text">Dogwood Buttress</text><climb
extra="and 22 respectively." grade="21"
name="From here you can walk up, tending rightwards to the ridge, to find Dogwood Buttress, or access it from the last building on the main ridge, heading west, but stay on the northern side, about 5mins to top from building. This is a small buttress facing south with two clean crack lines, both have been top roped and would go at about"></climb><text
class="text">Dinosaur Buttress</text><text
class="text">A couple of minutes scrambling east is a larger face (opposite main pinnicle).</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="22m"
name="Aging Dinosaur">Climb the obvious crack with a left zig at half height, which joins the left crack finishing as a spike. A.Mason, Dec/02.</climb><text
class="text">Breakaway Buttress</text><text
class="text">To access this cliff, walk up the main track to the last building on the ridge. Walk down left hand gully and bear left to walk out on top of buttress. Abseil, or walk down. From the lowest point, the left hand crack system is:</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="45m" name="The Ho Chi Min Trail"
stars=" ** ">Start at left side, climb up to first ledge. Climb crack using pocket on left to gain next ledge, and continue up left crack to third ledge. Follow wide crack to top. P.Wines, Oct/96.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="45m" name="Tin Pan Alley"
stars=" ** ">A few meters right is a thin crack, step up 1m and layback to reach lip on left and mantelshelf, and up to ledge. Delicately climb slab and up grove becoming easier, to large ledge. Follow crack above to top. A.Mason, Oct/96.</climb><text
class="text">Tea Pot Rocks
This is an outcrop on the eastern end of the Nicholas Range. The main crags face north, about halfway along is:</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="27m"
name="Tea Pot Crack">Climb the obvious large crack, easily at first, becomming more difficult, hand jam at half height, and bridge offwidth to finish under protruding flake. A Mason, Apr/96.</climb><text
class="text">Further on is a clean west facing wall, broken by a crack.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Red Light Jam"
stars=" ** ">Climb the hand crack, becoming easier towards top as the crack veers left. A.Mason, May/96.</climb><text
class="text">climb</text><text
class="text">South Sister Area</text><text
class="text">by Ashley Mason</text><text
class="text">Situated at the eastern end of the Nicholas Range, above St. Mary’s lies South Sister, a beautiful rocky peak rising to 832m, with transmission masts and fire tower on top. Typical dolerite crags abound the mountain offering some excellent climbs, with a strong emphasis on cranking cracks, as well as some varied routes. The rock is generally sound, and existing routes are clean, but care should still be taken of loose rock. All routes are naturally protected, so a full rack including hexs and cams is necessary.</text><text
class="text">As the crags face different directions the decision where to climb may depend on: weather conditions, time of year, and time of day. West facing crags are best in summer, especially afternoons, whereas the eastern facing crags are good any time, especially in winter, when the cold westerlies whistle over the top of the mountain and the rock is bathed in winter sun, it is generally dry, though not recommended during an easterly.</text><text
class="text">The crags have a friendly atmosphere, are a great place to perfect your jamming skills and are a good training ground for longer routes, as many cracks are single pitch yet sustained.</text><climb
extra="when the party R McMahon, G Narkowicz, D Kearnes, & H Mohler etc. led some excellent lines on the largest east facing buttress; Canyon Buttress. The mountain may have received visits after this initial period, but its climbing potential was rediscovered in Autumn 1995 by myself, P Wines & P Witton, accessing new crags, cleaning cracks, and putting up new routes. Many undescribed lines and problems have been top-roped, due to lack of placements or too hard."
grade="1984"
name="To my knowledge, South Sister was first visited by climbers in"></climb><text
class="text">On a clear day, views of the east coast from Freycinet to Flinders Islands, The Fingal Valley and the mountains of the North East can be gained. The flora, fauna, geology, etc. are fascinating, but that’s another story, enjoy this magical place and stay safe.</text><text
class="text">Access from St.Marys is via Gardiners Creek Rd (past the hospital), turn right at the crossroads (left is back to highway), up and along Top Marshes Rd for about 3km, and turn left up to South Sister lookout. All outcrops are described in an anticlockwise direction around the mountain, from the main track, and climbs from left to right. From the end of the road, follow the main track. The first outcrop up to the right is “Carpark Buttress”, leave the track when level with it (cairn).
For information and any new routes climbed, please contact me to keep up to date. A Mason, St Marys, Post Office. 7215. Ph. 63722334. (or, temporarily, on 63725440) (e-mail rambleon4me@yahoo.com.au)</text><text
class="text">Car Park Buttress</text><text
class="text">The first three lines start from the grassy ledge.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Fat Jam">Climb thin corner and face to ledge, to gain offwidth arm jam (crux). TR A.Mason,1997.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Sheavinos"
stars=" ** ">Up steep face using twin cracks to gain ledge, lay back corner to top. P.Wines, Dec/96.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="10m"
name="Laid Back">Climb cracks to sloping ledge, then layback to top. A.Mason, Nov/96.</climb><text
class="text">There are some good top rope problems on the rock below, inc. a small pinnicle. Up and around is another compact wall with several lines.</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="9m"
name="Oh Well">Up chimney and out right on face holds. A.Mason, Sep/96.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="9m"
name="Problem One">2m from corner, a small triangular ledgr in niche is gained delicately, contiue straight up. A.Mason (TR as no placements), Jul/96.</climb><text
class="text">Caramel Slice Buttress</text><text
class="text">This area is best accessed from the last lefthand bend on the road. Follow a small track contouring north, passing some small outcrops, until you reach a larger crag about 5mins away. This is the beginning of Caramel Slice Buttress.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="11m"
name="Stay Sharp">Grunt up the offwidth using the sharp aret. No pro. TR Ash & Plonky, 1995.
5m down on a large ledge next to a big white gum is a clean face.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Exit Stage Three"
stars=" ** ">Climb the face/thin crack on left hand side to under cling, to first stage, up middle of face, step left to gain offwidth crack on arete, a balancy move, but becomes easier towards the top. A beaut. Belay, same as Caramel Slice. P.Wines, Jul/95.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="25m"
name="Caramel Slice">Ascend face to undercling, layback and straight up to horizontal break. Step right, onto sharp edge, gain the wide crack with difficulty and continue to the top. A harder/bolder varient is to go left from the sharp edge, onto face and straight up. A Mason, May/95.</climb><text
class="text">Around the corner is another face.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Ramble On"
stars=" ** ">Climb the blind crack on the right side of face to horizontal break. Move delicately up face on finger flakes, (2RPs) to top left corner. A.Mason, Mar/97.</climb><text
class="text">10m further on is another clean face with a large flake going half way up. The left side has been top roped.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="22m" name="Science Circus"
stars=" *** ">Layback the right-hand edge of the flake to the slabby face. Move up tending right to crack, then step right and up face to finish. Classic. A.Mason, Jul/96.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Gritstone Roots"
stars=" * ">Start 1m to right of chimney using small square undercling, move delicately up face to spike runner, accend slab to 2nd spike runner and contiue easily to top. A bit run-out! A.Mason, Jul/97.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="22m"
name="Hot Piss">A heady face climb. G Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="24m"
name="Judgment Over the Dead">At the lowest point a steep, slightly overhanging face is broken by a thin crack, layback this on finger tips (crux), continue up crack and face to top. G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><text
class="text">Canyon Buttress</text><text
class="text">Walk in a northerly direction, gradually accending until large twin buttress. The first line is on the left of the southern buttress.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="18m"
name="Barley Straw">Climb the obvious crack system to the top. H.Mohler, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="18m"
name="Wide Open">A delicate face climb, finishing up the righthand crack. Sparse protection. R.McMahon, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="22m"
name="Small Beers and Thin Books"
stars=" *** ">Bridge the twin finger cracks, contiue to top. Classic. G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="22m"
name="Lawywers, Guns, & Money">Grunt up offwidth crack. R.McMahon, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="22m" name="The Way We Were"
stars=" ** ">Climb corner, then bridge between wide and thin cracks to top of piller, continue to top. R.McMahon, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="22m"
name="Leather Joyboys">Follow the thin crack on small holds and fingerlocks (awaits a 2nd accent). G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><text
class="text">A few metres over on the Northern Buttress is a longish hand crack.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="22m" name="Knee Deep in Gore"
stars=" ** ">From the grassy ledge, follow the hand crack directly to top. G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Sizzling Snags"
stars=" *** ">Start at low point, climb arête tending rightwards and on to big ledge (belay). Step up and left (crux) on small holds, becoming easier towards top. R.McMahon, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="15m"
name="Happy Cummings">A grunt of a climb.</climb><climb extra=""
grade="18" length="18m" name="Have Hans, Will Jam"
stars=" * ">A classic hand crack. R.McMahon, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="22m"
name="Just Slipped In">Bridge between crack and offwidth edge on face holds to horizontal break, Follow crack to top. A.Mason, Feb/01.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="18m"
name="Emptiness, Eagles, & Snow"
stars=" *** ">Beaut layback/finger crack, becoming offwidth (crux). G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Pleasure in the Pain"
stars=" ** ">A short finger/hand crack. G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="9m" name="Solitary Pleasures"
stars=" * ">Another short vertical crack line. G.Narkowicz (solo), 1984.</climb><text
class="text">On a small overhanging crag, in front of the main southern buttress, is a thin crack.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="7m"
name="Manx Minx">Attempt to climb this overhanging gritty slit. G.Narkowicz, 1984.</climb><text
class="text">Absent Friends Buttress</text><text
class="text">There is one more decent buttress on this side of the mountain. Walk in a westerly direction for about 10mins. This characteristic lump of dolerite offers some excellent fingerlicking cracks, all have been top roped, but only one has been led.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="16m" name="Absent Friends"
stars=" * ">The furthest crack on the right. Climb to horizontal break on good holds, then hand jam to top. A.Mason, Oct/97.</climb><text
class="text">Dogwood Buttress</text><climb
extra="and 22 respectively." grade="21"
name="From here you can walk up, tending rightwards to the ridge, to find Dogwood Buttress, or access it from the last building on the main ridge, heading west, but stay on the northern side, about 5mins to top from building. This is a small buttress facing south with two clean crack lines, both have been top roped and would go at about"></climb><text
class="text">Dinosaur Buttress</text><text
class="text">A couple of minutes scrambling east is a larger face (opposite main pinnicle).</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="22m"
name="Aging Dinosaur">Climb the obvious crack with a left zig at half height, which joins the left crack finishing as a spike. A.Mason, Dec/02.</climb><text
class="text">Breakaway Buttress</text><text
class="text">To access this cliff, walk up the main track to the last building on the ridge. Walk down left hand gully and bear left to walk out on top of buttress. Abseil, or walk down. From the lowest point, the left hand crack system is:</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="45m" name="The Ho Chi Min Trail"
stars=" ** ">Start at left side, climb up to first ledge. Climb crack using pocket on left to gain next ledge, and continue up left crack to third ledge. Follow wide crack to top. P.Wines, Oct/96.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="45m" name="Tin Pan Alley"
stars=" ** ">A few meters right is a thin crack, step up 1m and layback to reach lip on left and mantelshelf, and up to ledge. Delicately climb slab and up grove becoming easier, to large ledge. Follow crack above to top. A.Mason, Oct/96.</climb><text
class="text">Tea Pot Rocks
This is an outcrop on the eastern end of the Nicholas Range. The main crags face north, about halfway along is:</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="27m"
name="Tea Pot Crack">Climb the obvious large crack, easily at first, becomming more difficult, hand jam at half height, and bridge offwidth to finish under protruding flake. A Mason, Apr/96.</climb><text
class="text">Further on is a clean west facing wall, broken by a crack.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Red Light Jam" stars=" ** ">Climb the hand crack, becoming easier towards top as the crack veers left. A.Mason, May/96.</climb></guide>
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