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<header
access="From the Whitewater Wall campsite, walk south for 10 minutes down the rough 4WD track to Little Bluestone Bay. From here follow a rough track south around the coastline, slightly inland. Drop down to your buttress of choice."
acknowledgement="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="0"
guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history=""
intro="This section covers the climbs that are accessed by the Little Bluestone Bay track. This area offers some superb routes in a beautiful location."
name="Little Bluestone Bay" new="false"
rock="White granite, 10-25m" sun="Morning sun"
walk="5-30 mins"/><image new="false" noPrint="false"
src="coles bay little bluestone.jpg" width=""/>
<text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="135"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Lego Area">Lego Area</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="136" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This is the southernmost developed cliff in the area. From the end of the road to Little Bluestone Bay, head uphill to the R (inland), then L to cross a creek bed above First Ramp. From here move southwards towards the coast, walk past Alchemy Wall and Rubik's Cube to the gully leading down to the sea. A prominent buttress lies just north of this gully.">This is the southernmost developed cliff in the area. From the end of the road to Little Bluestone Bay, head uphill to the R (inland), then L to cross a creek bed above First Ramp. From here move southwards towards the coast, walk past Alchemy Wall and Rubik's Cube to the gully leading down to the sea. A prominent buttress lies just north of this gully. It is also possible to get to this area by following an old 4WD track down to the coast from the Cape Tourville Rd, about 100m past the turn off to Bluestone Bay.</text><climb
extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m"
name="King Constipator" new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Start at the hanging arete below the u-bolts on the right of the main butress. The crux is past the final overhang at the end of pitch 1. If you're a bit on the short side these few moves may be a fair bit harder than 24 and hard to aid. Thankfully the first ascentionist has provided ring bolts, so you can either lower-off or, more preferably, belay there then traverse right and ascend the pinnacle from behind; allowing the completion of the worthwhile 2nd pitch. 1) 24. Up the arete past several cams and bolts to a ledge, continue up the slab past another bolt to another ledge. Clip another bolt and climb the overhanging flake to gain yet another ledge and a well needed break before tackling the final overhang. Belay on top of the pinnacle at the bolt. You'll need cams from 1-4 if you don't want to get too scared. 2) 21. Step across the void to gain the main part of the cliff and continue up the funky corner past 2 bolts. N.Hancock, A.Bissett (alt), Aug 2001.">Start at the hanging arete below the u-bolts on the right of the main butress. The crux is past the final overhang at the end of pitch 1. If you're a bit on the short side these few moves may be a fair bit harder than 24 and hard to aid. Thankfully the first ascentionist has provided ring bolts, so you can either lower-off or, more preferably, belay there then traverse right and ascend the pinnacle from behind, allowing the completion of the worthwhile 2nd pitch. 1) 24. Up the arête past several cams and bolts to a ledge, continue up the slab past another bolt to another ledge. Clip another bolt and climb the overhanging flake to gain yet another ledge and a well-needed break before tackling the final overhang. Belay on top of the pinnacle at the bolt. You'll need cams from 1-4 if you don't want to get too scared. 2) 21. Step across the void to gain the main part of the cliff and continue up the funky corner past 2 bolts. N.Hancock, A.Bissett (alt), Aug 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Lego"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Full name: Where's My Mum, Where's My Dad, Where's My Lunch, Where's My Doll, Where's My Fucking Lego. Climb discontinuous cracks up the front of the buttress, passing several horizontal breaks with a tricky mantel. Crosses King Constipator and is probably superseded by it. N.Deka, Apr 1988."> Full name: Where's My Mum, Where's My Dad, Where's My Lunch, Where's My Doll, Where's My Fucking Lego. Climb discontinuous cracks up the front of the buttress, passing several horizontal breaks with a tricky mantel. Crosses King Constipator and is probably superseded by it. N.Deka, Apr 1988.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
name="Demolition Darby" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Obvious crack starting from wall parallel to ramp. P.Darby, Apr 1988."> Obvious crack starting from wall parallel to ramp. P.Darby, Apr 1988.</climb><text
class="Discussion" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The following climb is located a further 50m left of Lego Buttress proper:">The following climb is located a further 50m left of Lego Buttress proper:</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="I See You Baby (Shakin&apos; that Ass)" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="The easy slab and continuation groove about 50m left of Lego Buttress. J. Holland, M. Hynes, Sep 2001."> The easy slab and continuation groove about 50m left of Lego Buttress. J. Holland, M. Hynes, Sep 2001.</climb><text
class="heading3">Rubik's Cube</text><text class="text"
new="false">The so-called Rubik's Cube is the small series of cliffs that form vague cube like shapes, east of Tetragamatron. It is best to get a line on this when first walking down to Little Bluestone Bay. Access is best facilitated by scrambling down on the seaward side (SE).</text><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The Orange Face: this is the left-most face and runs parallel to the ocean.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
name="Analysis, Statistics" new="false" number="1." stars=""
value="Start as for Interval but step left after 3m and climb hand-crack. Step left again at ledge and up incipient cracks to top. A fine climb to the end. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989."> Start as for Interval but step left after 3m and climb hand-crack. Step left again at ledge and up incipient cracks to top. A fine climb to the end. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Interval"
new="false" number="2." stars=""
value="Start 4m left of corner up hand-crack to top. D.Batten, D.Bruce, Mar 1989."> Start 4m left of corner up hand-crack to top. D.Batten, D.Bruce, Mar 1989.</climb><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The Yellow Face: the next face right, perpendicular to the ocean.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="The Horror"
new="false" number="3." stars=""
value="Far left hand side of the face. Up steep wall and crack to top with awkward finish. J.Pinkard, B. Baxter, Mar 1989."> Far left hand side of the face. Up steep wall and crack to top with awkward finish. J.Pinkard, B. Baxter, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m"
name="Blinking Idiot" new="false" number="4." stars="*"
value="The crack line right of The Horror. Adequately protected by wires and a 1 friend near the top. Move left to the frail looking jug just before the top. R. Parkyn, S. Edwards, Mar 1996."> The crack line right of The Horror. Adequately protected by wires and a 1 friend near the top. Move left to the frail looking jug just before the top. R. Parkyn, S. Edwards, Mar 1996.</climb><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The Green Face: next right</text><climb extra=""
grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0"
guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Snakes, Ladders"
new="false" number="5." stars=""
value="Steep, flared crack with layaways on both faces. Difficult to protect. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989."> Steep, flared crack with layaways on both faces. Difficult to protect. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="20"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m"
name="Bill&apos;s Climb" new="false" number="6." stars="*"
value="Up steep hand crack starting in the corner. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989."> Up steep hand crack starting in the corner. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="21"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="a+b"
new="false" number="7." stars=""
value="A fun climb. The corner crack which is both varied and well protected. D.Bruce, Mar 1989."> A fun climb. The corner crack which is both varied and well protected. D.Bruce, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="22"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Easy Solo"
new="false" number="8." stars=""
value="J.Pinkard, Mar 1989."> J.Pinkard, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="23"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="7m" name="Digit"
new="false" number="9." stars="*"
value="Start 3m left of Spirit of Place. Up crack and layaway, surprisingly to right, otherwise you'll end up on the other climb. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989."> Start 3m left of Spirit of Place. Up crack and layaway, surprisingly to right, otherwise you'll end up on the other climb. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="24"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m"
name="Spirit of Place" new="false" number="10." stars="**"
value="Ascent of left trending diagonal confronted by thin balancy moves. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989."> Ascent of left trending diagonal confronted by thin balancy moves. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="25"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Soft Grit"
new="false" number="11." stars="*"
value="The arete immediately right of Spirit of Place. Up into undercling and continue to thin crack (good wires here). Continue straight up the arete or dyno right to good holds and top. N. Selby, Apr 2001."> The arête immediately right of Spirit of Place. Up into undercling and continue to thin crack (good wires here). Continue straight up the arête or dyno right to good holds and the top. N. Selby, Apr 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="26"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Tangent"
new="false" number="12." stars=""
value="Glorified boulder problem up crack, out under roof and bridge to finish. N. Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989."> Glorified boulder problem up crack, out under roof and bridge to finish. N. Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.</climb><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The Black Face: the next face right</text><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="28"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Fractional"
new="false" number="13." stars=""
value="Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up handcrack above. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten, Mar 1989."> Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up handcrack above. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="10" guide.action="submit" guide.id="29"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Pink Solo"
new="false" number="14." stars=""
value="Easy face. J.Pinkard, Mar 1989."> Easy face. J.Pinkard, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="30"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Denominator"
new="false" number="15." stars=""
value="Obvious arete about 5m left of Rhomboid. N. Deka, Mar 1989."> Obvious arête about 5m left of Rhomboid. N. Deka, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="31"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Rhomboid"
new="false" number="16." stars=""
value="The arete immediately left of the overhang. Pleasant climbing up hand cracks. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, Mar 1989."> The arete immediately left of the overhang. Pleasant climbing up hand cracks. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="10m" name="Dynamo Hum" number="17."
stars=""> Climb the steep wall just right of the crack. D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, 1989.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="10m" name="Left Crack" number="18."
stars=""> Climb the overhanging crack. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="34"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Geometry"
new="false" number="19." stars=""
value="About 4m left of the arete, with a bouldery start. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989."> About 4m left of the arête, with a bouldery start. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="35"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
name="Hypothetical" new="false" number="20." stars=""
value="Up right arete. Take crack to top. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989."> Up right arête. Take crack to top. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.</climb><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The Red Face: Again the next face right.</text><climb
extra="" grade="8" guide.action="submit" guide.id="37"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="Roxanne&apos;s Corner" new="false" number="22."
stars=""
value="The easy corner where the Red face meets the overhanging Blue face. Roxanne Wells, Mar 1989."> The easy corner where the Red face meets the overhanging Blue face. Roxanne Wells, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="38"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="D Squared + r" new="false" number="23." stars=""
value="Just right of the centre of the face. A good route with RP protection. D.Bruce, D.Batten, R.Wells, Mar 1989."> Just right of the centre of the face. A good route with RP protection. D.Bruce, D.Batten, R.Wells, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Logarithm"
new="false" number="24." stars=""
value="The far right arete. Excellent crack climbing. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989."> The far right arête. Excellent crack climbing. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.</climb><text
class="heading3">Tetragrammaton Buttress</text><text
class="description">A large white piece of rock with some yellow stains on it. The cliff is located between Rubiks Cube and Alchemy Wall. It is hidden behind Alchemy Wall when viewed from Little Bluestone Bay. The best option is to rap in, but access is possible down the gully on the Rubiks Cube side of the cliff. To use this access head down to just above Rubiks Cube and work around to Tetragammatron. It's possible to take the gully direct, but it's very loose and dangerous.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="coles bay tetragrammatron.jpg" width=""/><climb extra=""
grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43" guide.page="0"
guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="The Drivel Dies"
new="false" number="1." stars=""
value="To the left of the gully that splits the face. The collection of finger and layback cracks left of the large chimney, climb these and when they run out step right into the chimney and onto the top. D. Gardner, T. Meldrum, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Jan 1994."> To the left of the gully that splits the face. The collection of finger and layback cracks left of the large chimney, climb these and when they run out step right into the chimney and onto the top. D. Gardner, T. Meldrum, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Jan 1994.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="40m" name="The Devil Drives" number="2."
stars=""> To the right of the gully that splits the face, on the left side of the wall. This route wonders up the wall to the right of the gully, but left of the difficult looking face to the ledge. Finish up pitch 2 of The Boy who Cried Wolf. E.Lees, N.Smith, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="45"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m"
name="The Boy Who Cried Wolf" new="false" number="3." stars=""
value="This whole route is slightly overhung. Right of the above, below an obvious v-squeeze chimney at about 20m. 1) 25m. The curving cracks with hard mantelshelf and difficult off-width. Up the steep difficult crack for 10m to a difficult step right and mantelshelf which leads to an awkward exit up a flared squeeze chimney. 2) 15m. Continue straight up above offwidth. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.">This whole route is slightly overhung. Right of the above, below an obvious v-squeeze chimney at about 20m. 1) 25m. The curving cracks with hard mantelshelf and difficult off-width. Up the steep difficult crack for 10m to a difficult step right and mantelshelf which leads to an awkward exit up a flared squeeze chimney. 2) 15m. Continue straight up offwidth. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="46"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m"
name="The Little Red Hen" new="false" number="4." stars="*"
value="The crack right of the above. Quite hard. Second pitch as above. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981."> The crack right of the above. Quite hard. Second pitch as above. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="12m" name="Chicken Surprise" number="5."
stars=""> A second pitch to Little Red Hen. The terrace half way up Tetragamatron Buttress is at two levels, the left being 1.5m lower than the right half. The line starts at the step between the two. At the top traverse right past a small tree, then up. Pete Steane, Adrian Herrington, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="48"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m"
name="Tetragrammaton" new="false" number="6." stars="**"
value="A good hard climb. Locate the most obvious finish on the right of the face and follow this in a straight line to the bottom. Start here. 1) 25m. Straight forward jamming with a couple of awkward moves around the bulge. 2) 15m. Start with difficult thin crack, then follow overhanging jam crack to top. J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka, Nov 1981.">A good hard climb. Locate the most obvious finish on the right of the face and follow this in a straight line to the bottom. Start here. 1) 25m. Straight forward jamming with a couple of awkward moves around the bulge. 2) 15m. Start with difficult thin crack, then follow overhanging jam crack to top. J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka, Nov 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="49"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m"
name="No More Mr Nice Guy" new="false" number="7." stars="***"
value="A great route, one of the best at the grade. The climbing is varied and the protection very good. At the lowest point of the arete right of Tetragamatron. 1) 25m. follow cracks to half height then hand traverse left onto the ledge of Tetragamatron. 2) 15m. Either continue as for Tetragamatron pitch 2 (21), or more easily scamble left along ledge and up. J. Fisher, B. Chilvers, Feb 1994.">A great route, one of the best at the grade. The climbing is varied and the protection very good. At the lowest point of the arete right of Tetragamatron. 1) 25m. follow cracks to half height then hand traverse left onto the ledge of Tetragamatron. 2) 15m. Either continue as for Tetragamatron pitch 2 (21), or more easily scamble left along ledge and up. J. Fisher, B. Chilvers, Feb 1994.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="50"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="48m" name="Exocet"
new="false" number="8." stars="***"
value="A total classic. 1) 17 18m Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then continue up corner to DBB. 2) 26 18m The pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner passing a bolt (crux) to another DBB. 3) 17 10m The nice hand and offwidth to the top. G. Phillips and S.Young 2007. <br/>">A total classic. 1) 18m 17. Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then continue up corner to DBB. 2) 18m 26. The pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner passing a bolt (crux) to another DBB. 3) 10m 17. The nice hand and offwidth to the top. G. Phillips and S.Young 2007.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="51"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m"
name="Edge of the World" new="false" number="9." stars=""
value="This route is on the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Tetragamatron Buttress, visible from the top of this buttress. Descent is by abseil. The line on the left of the wall, sustained and a little loose. R.McMahon, J.Fisher, B.Chilvers, Apr 1994."> This route is on the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Tetragamatron Buttress, visible from the top of this buttress. Descent is by abseil. The line on the left of the wall, sustained and a little loose. R.McMahon, J.Fisher, B.Chilvers, Apr 1994.</climb><text
class="heading3">Alchemy Wall</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="52" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value=""The best face in the whole Bluestone area. The cliff that can turn cottage cheese into gold."">"The best face in the whole Bluestone area. The cliff that can turn cottage cheese into gold."</text><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="53" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The compact wall visible from across Little Bluestone Bay. A distinct right leaning crack can be seen on the wall's left hand end (Hermes Trismegistus). To get there head up and right from the road end at little Bluestone Bay. Follow and faint pad and the cliff tops around towards the cliff. Go through a dry creek bed looking gully and continue for a few hundred meters. Alchemy Wall is marked by a cairn. The approach takes around 10 minutes. Abseil or a scramble down at the northern end.">The compact wall visible from across Little Bluestone Bay. A distinct right leaning crack can be seen on the wall's left hand end (Hermes Trismegistus). To get there head up and right from the road end at Little Bluestone Bay. Follow and faint pad and the cliff tops around towards the cliff. Go through a dry creek bed looking gully and continue for a few hundred meters. Alchemy Wall is marked by a cairn. The approach takes around 10 minutes. Abseil or a scramble down at the northern end.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="coles bay alchemy.jpg"
width=""/><climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit"
guide.id="55" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="17m"
name="Monte Carlo" new="false" number="1." stars=""
value="Left of the main Alchemy Face, on the left end of the seaward facing wall about 10m left of Coolibah Crack. The off-width corner. A bit of a struggle, with the hard part of the off-width avoided by moving into crack at right near the top. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981."> Left of the main Alchemy Face, on the left end of the seaward facing wall about 10m left of Coolibah Crack. The off-width corner. A bit of a struggle, with the hard part of the off-width avoided by moving into crack at right near the top. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="56"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
name="Evelyn&apos;s Climb" new="false" number="2." stars=""
value="The route left of Coolibah Crack, just right of Monte Carlo. Starts as a tight overhanging hand crack to good hands and easier climbing. Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, B.Maddison, P.Cullen, Jan 1982."> The route left of Coolibah Crack, just right of Monte Carlo. Starts as a tight overhanging hand crack to good hands and easier climbing. Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, B.Maddison, P.Cullen, Jan 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="57"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="Coolibah Crack" new="false" number="3." stars="**"
value="The climb is located round left on Alchemy Face and is a sharp, arching crack up face with an orange hue. Awkward balance moves up initial flaring groove coming out onto leftward leaning crack up steep face. J. Fantini, R. McMahon, Oct 1981."> The climb is located round left on Alchemy Face and is a sharp, arching crack up face with an orange hue. Awkward balance moves up initial flaring groove coming out onto leftward leaning crack up steep face. J. Fantini, R. McMahon, Oct 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="58"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="Immaculate Misconception" new="false" number="4."
stars="***"
value="The arete right of Coolibah Crack provides excellent climbing. The protection is good, comprising wires and bolts. Follow the arete to the overlap, turn this and head up the right side of the arete to the top. N. Hancock, A. Bissett, Aug 2001."> The arete right of Coolibah Crack provides excellent climbing. The protection is good, comprising wires and bolts. Follow the arete to the overlap, turn this and head up the right side of the arete to the top. N. Hancock, A. Bissett, Aug 2001.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="20m" name="Hermes Playmate" number="5."
stars="*"> Start up Hermes Trismegistus. Climb the cracks for 7m then left onto the face and directly up to some obvious underclings below the bulge. Move left few metres then up for 4m. Finish up the seam. Simon Carter, Roxanne Wells, Feb 95.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="58"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="27m"
name="Hermes Trismegistus" new="false" number="6." stars="**"
value="The diagonal crack on the left of the seaward face provides steep and sustained climbing for its length. Take care with friends in the inward flaring crack, hexes are very useful if you still own any. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81."> The diagonal crack on the left of the seaward face provides steep and sustained climbing for its length. Take care with friends in the inward flaring crack, hexes are very useful if you still own any. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="25" length="20m" name="Captivating Passions" number="7."
stars="*"> Right of Hermes Trismegistus is a discontinuous line leading up to two u-bolts. Climb this past the bolts to the top (no lower-offs so back-jump or rap of a tree). Grant Rowbottom, 1999.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="18m"
name="Walking the Plank Direct Finish" new="false" number="8."
stars="">Climb Walking the Plank, but rather than stepping right into BEB head left past 1 bolt runner and up to lay back off width to finish. Take a #4 friend for the top. G. Phillips & J. Bresnehan Sep 2007.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="62"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m"
name="Walking the Plank" new="false" number="9." stars="**"
value="The crack system right of Captivating Passions. The cracks run out on the upper face, forcing a rightwards traverse into Blue-eyed Blonde. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981."> The crack system right of Captivating Passions. The cracks run out on the upper face, forcing a rightwards traverse into Blue-eyed Blonde. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Blue-eyed Blonde"
new="false" number="10."
stars="***"> Follow cracks to bulge, just right of Walking the Plank. Over bulge to top. Good pro. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="63"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Alchemy"
new="false" number="11." stars="***"
value="The next crack system right. Thin moves at start easing off to good flake edge, then a reach for a ledge. Mantel crux followed by finger/hand crack. John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Nov 81."> The next crack system right. Thin moves at start easing off to good flake edge, then a reach for a ledge. Mantel crux followed by finger/hand crack. John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Nov 81.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false">Alchemy Ramp</text><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The next climbs are located on the ramp above Alchemy Wall.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Fools Gold" new="false"
number=""
stars=""> A nice little corner on the left end of the tier above Alchemy Face. Awkward moves to gain ledge on arête. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 81.</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="28" length="15m" name="Exquisite Tenderness"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The thin bolted face right of Fools Gold. Grant Rowbottom, 1999."> The thin bolted face right of Fools Gold. Grant Rowbottom, 1999.</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="22" length="20m" name="L'Obsession"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="To the right of Exquisite Tenderness. 5 bolts. N.Selby 7/6/2003.">To the right of Exquisite Tenderness. 5 bolts. N.Selby 7/6/2003.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="14m" name="Silver and Gold"
new="false" number=""
stars="">About 10 metres to the right of Exquisite Tenderness is a steep arete. Start about 2 metres further right of this underneath some large undercling flakes. Up the wall to the flakes and traverse
leftwards around them to the arete. Up the arete and blocks above to the top. J.Nermut, J.Anderson & E.Bradley Jan 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Haliaeetus Leucogaster"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start a metre or two further right than Silver and Gold and climb the thin broken crack and the blocks above to the top. J.Nermut, J.Anderson & E.Bradley Jan 2001.</climb><text
class="heading3">Second Ramp</text><text
class="description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a small, dry creek bed shortly after you turn south (5 minutes after leaving the road end). This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the top of the second ramp.</text><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="10m" name="Struck Off " new="false"
number=""
stars="">On small pinnacle at left end of crag, climb open groove on north side to roof and bolt. Hard moves to BB on top. Nick Hancock & Norm Selby Mar 03.
</climb><climb
grade="18" length="12m" name="Dodgy Ringpulls" number=""
stars=""> Start at a small downward pointing flake left of Double Deka. Climb the initial overhang then continue up the lower angled rock to the top. Kim Robinson, Aug 1997.</climb><climb
grade="12" length="15m" name="Double Deka" number=""
stars=""> About 2m left of Firewalker. Crux is laybacking down low, finishing up same slab as Firewalker. Nick Deka solo.</climb><climb
grade="15" length="16m" name="Firewalker" number=""
stars=""> The short corner at the left end of the short steep face which turns into a slab at 4 - 5m. Awkward moves in initial corner. Finish up easy slab. Neale Smith (solo), Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="19" length="15m" name="Ogma Sun Face" number=""
stars="***"> The next line downhill and 3m right. Mainly finger crack with a long reach out right to gain the easy slab. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="15m" name="Steel Springs" number=""
stars="**"> Next line right. A graceful corner finishing up slab. Bridging moves with tricky protection. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="15m" name="Curious Fanatic" number=""
stars="**"> On the face 6m up left of the easy corner. A difficult boulder problem start gives way to flaring, slippery locks. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="10m" name="First in First Served" number=""
stars="*"> About 3m left of Easy Corner, is a short overhanging face right of Curious Fanatic. Dynamic bouldery start, easy to top. Robert McMahon, Mar 89.</climb><climb
grade="10" length="10m" name="Easy Corner" number=""
stars=""> The obvious rightmost corner about 20m left of the sea. Neale Smith (solo), Oct 81.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The rock wall right of this corner is short and easy. Go for your life.</text><climb
grade="12" length="15m" name="Mathonwy" number=""
stars=""> A white wall down the Second Ramp. The line goes up the left of the face just right of the corner. Good holds - steep start and easy later. Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="12" length="15m" name="Doesn't Matter" number=""
stars=""> Further right, up the centre of the face. Same as above. Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><text
class="heading3">First Ramp</text><text
class="description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a tiny creek shortly after you turn south. This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the left end of the First Ramp.</text><climb
grade="18" length="10m" name="Bearded Clam Corner" number=""
stars="*"> The first corner on the small black face. Crux move of thin bridging about a body length off the ground. Straight forward and pleasant bridging all the way with good protection. Neale Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="86"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
name="Fine Wine, Women and Precious Things" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="The finely detailed black stained face just right of Bearded Clam Corner. Sustained, and has poor RP protection. R.McMahon, R.Wells, 1989."> The finely detailed black stained face just right of Bearded Clam Corner. Sustained, and has poor RP protection. R.McMahon, R.Wells, 1989.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="10m" name="Triptolemus" number=""
stars=""> Further down the ramp are several lines on a steep face. The first is a black corner and the second is this corner. Quite technical and steep face climbing. N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="88"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="22m"
name="Velchanos (Demon)" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Just left of the main buttress. The route takes a direct line up through the overhanging bulge. Strenuous but not sustained. N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 81."> Just left of the main buttress. The route takes a direct line up through the overhanging bulge. Strenuous but not sustained. N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="22m" name="Whinging Poms" number=""
stars=""> The open book corner to the right of Velchanos. Up that (too easy), pull through overhang (too hard) and up crack above (too loose). D.Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 90.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="90"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="23m"
name="Feed the Man Meat" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The high large block with a crusty orange face. Through roof onto steep face. Poor protection. Marc Tierney, Micheal Fox, Andrew Brooks, Mar 89.">The high large block with a crusty orange face. Through roof onto steep face. Poor protection. Marc Tierney, Micheal Fox, Andrew Brooks, Mar 89.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="22m" name="Taliesin" number=""
stars=""> On the first major buttress you come to is a diagonal line starting lower left on the main buttress passing through roof near the top (crux) followed by good but easy corner to finish. Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, Oct 81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="92"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Ygdrassill"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="On the right on this face. Very balancey, committing moves rounding rooves, move leftwards to gain jams. Easy to top. Robert McMahon, John Fantini, Oct 81."> On the right on this face. Very balancey, committing moves rounding rooves, move leftwards to gain jams. Easy to top. Robert McMahon, John Fantini, Oct 81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Furless" new="false"
number=""
stars="">To the right (north) of First Ramp is a striking block with an overhanging base. Follow the crack up the seaward face. Kim Robinson, Aug 97.</climb><text
class="heading3">Travel Land</text><text
class="description">The first sizable piece of rock north of Little Bluestone Bay. To get there head down the track to Little Bluestone Bay and turn left at the end and walk 50m. Easily approached from above or below. You'll be able to recoginise it by the shiny new bolts Norm has placed.</text><climb
extra="Þ" grade="24" length="8m" name="Wild Willy" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="The overhanging arete left of Hugs n Kisses. G Phillips, May 03.">The overhanging arête left of Hugs n Kisses. G Phillips, May 03.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="96"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="Hugs 'n' Kisses" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Off-width. Jay Audenart, 1998."> Off-width. Jay Audenart, 1998.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" length="8m" name="Red Line" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Start as for Tribute then swing left and follow bolts up the face. G Phillips, Feb 03.
</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="22" length="15m" name="Tribute" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="Start in corner up slab face with 5 U bolts. N.Selby 12/10/2002"> Start in corner up slab face with 5 U bolts. N.Selby 12/10/2002</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="21" length="14m" name="Ekeko" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Start just right, stick clip first bolt and up steep face, 5 U bolts. N.Selby, 25/08/2002"> Start just right, stick clip first bolt and up steep face, 5 U bolts. N.Selby, 25/08/2002</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="23" length="12m" name="The Path of the Enigma"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Start 2m to the right, stick clip the first bolt and go up the arete past 4 U bolts. N.Selby, 12/10/2002"> Start 2m to the right, stick clip the first bolt and go up the arête past 4 U bolts. N.Selby, 12/10/2002</climb><climb
grade="16" length="12m" name="Panchamama" number=""
stars=""> Off-width. Good fun. N.Selby, C.Walker, E.Bradley, A.Williams</climb><text
class="Discussion" new="false"
value="The following routes are straight under Travel Land, at two rap bolts on a point.">The following routes are straight under Travel Land, at two rap bolts on a point.</text><climb
extra="3B" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="103"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
name="Mad Moroccan Cabbies" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Follow the dyke, past 3 u-bolts. Norm Selby, Dec 02."> Follow the dyke, past 3 u-bolts. Norm Selby, Dec 02.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="501 Bodega" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="The arete with 2 u-bolts plus gear. Norm Selby, Dec 02."> The arete with 2 u-bolts plus gear. Norm Selby, Dec 02.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="10m" name="Disco Dancing Vegetable Bus"
number=""
stars=""> Right hand face and crack, gear to 1 u-bolt. Norm Selby, Dec 02.</climb><text
class="heading3">Sentry Box</text><text class="text" new="false"
value="From the end of the track at White Stack, the Sentry Box is easily seen about 200m south. It is the big square block with the orange white face. The upper half of Sentry Box takes the crack which splits this face. It can either be approached from White Stack, or northwards around the coast from Little Bluestone, past Travel Land.">From the end of the track at White Stack, the Sentry Box is easily seen about 200m south. It is the big square block with the orange white face. The upper half of Sentry Box takes the crack which splits this face. It can either be approached from White Stack, or northwards around the coast from Little Bluestone, past Travel Land.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Sentry Box" new="false"
number=""
stars="*"> On the left hand arête at the base of the buttress. Up slightly left of the arête with some awkward balance moves to gain a shallow corner to get under the block. Traverse right to gain the crack and straight up, first on fingerlocks and then good jams. F.Moon, W.Moon, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="26" length="10m" name="Fridge Magnet"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Powerful side-pulling up the double-edged arête starting about 5 m left of Rainbow Groove via 4 bolts to a single bolt lower-off. Nick Hancock Nov 04.">Powerful side-pulling up the double-edged arête starting about 5 m left of Rainbow Groove via 4 bolts to a single bolt lower-off. Nick Hancock Nov 04.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Rainbow Groove"
new="false" number=""
stars=""> The slim groove on the left arête. Protected by RP's. Dave Gray, Carol Hurst.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Shogun" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="A lower level double arête with 3 u-bolts. Looking at the Sentry box crack walk directly behind you and go 5m you will reach the top of the climb. N Selby 28/12/2003.">A lower level double arête with 3 u-bolts. Looking at the Sentry box crack walk directly behind you and go 5m you will reach the top of the climb. N Selby 28/12/2003.
</climb><text
class="Discussion">There is possibly a climb just south of White Stack. You may find it with this description.</text><climb
grade="19" length="40m" name="Mr. Whimpy Bites the Dust"
number="" stars=""> Directly below the most southerly campsite, the first obvious line visible to the south of the Easter Island lookout. A brilliant route with a great hand-crack at two thirds height. P.Hairsine, S.Hairsine, Jan 88.</climb>
</guide>
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