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Other Western Crags
This section contains information about other crags in the West and South West of Tasmania for which we do not have full guides for.
Cockscomb Ridge (Mt La Perouse)
A jagged remote dolerite ridge in the Southern Ranges. A true wilderness climb, the area is often beset by gale force winds and occasional snow in summer. Ascended in Jan. 1983 by Chris Rathbone, Glen Kowalik and Phil Robinson. A day’s walk in starting at the old Ida Bay Quarry, not far from Mystery Creek cave, takes one through steep bush, muddy in places higher up, to the open Moonlight Flats followed by a traverse of Hills 1, 2, 3 and 4 to a camp at Arndell Falls. On the 1st ascent it was wet with light snowfall on the walk in but miraculously it cleared overnight to warm sunshine in the morning, enough to dry the rock briefly for the ascent. A traverse is made from the camp through bush onto slabs and the base of the lower buttress which gave two good pitches (crux , ~gr.16) before accessing the pinnacles. Exit is easy anywhere along the ridge if the weather breaks. From the summit of Mt La Perouse which is composed of sandstone, follow the walking track back down.
GK and PR traversing around to the start (1983). The Hippo in the background.
Cockscomb Ridge, Mt La Perouse summit in cloud
Glen Kowalik leading the crux pitch
Lower section of Cockscomb Ridge
Photos: Phil Robinson
Photos: Phil Robinson
Coronation Peak
Coronation Peak in the Frankland Range has a major quartzite cliff on its north face. The cliff splitting line was climbed in 1984 by Glen Kowalik and Phil Robinson at about grade 14 with a 2nd ascent in the 90s by Dave Gardner and Tom Meldrum. Access is by boat across the Pedder Impoundment. On the 1st ascent a small aluminum dinghy was used and a bivvy made in a cave near the foot of the cliffs. This had small drip of water, sufficient for collection given time, although could dry out in midsummer. Scrub wasn’t bad at all in 1984 but this may have changed judging by a report from the 90s trip. Three pitches lead to a scramble finish and the top of the mountain. The wall, which looked hard at the start, turned out to be surprisingly easy. An enjoyable route in a wild setting.
Phil Robinson, Glen Kowalik (alt.) Jan.1984.
Phil Robinson, Glen Kowalik (alt.) Jan.1984.
Photos: Phil Robinson
Franklin River
The lower section of the Franklin River passes through some very nice limestone, that provides great deep water soloing if you are passing by in a raft. High up in the Elliot Range, on the right as you go down the river is a large limestone cliff called Cromleigh Cliff. As far as I know it hasn't been climbed, due to the massive epic involved in getting there.
Hartz Mountains
A small dolerite cliff rises high above Ladies Tarn at Hartz Mountain NP, a very pleasant spot to spend a sunny summer’s day. The walk in to Ladies Tarn is approx. 40 mins. along the boardwalks from the car park although for access to the cliff continue on another 15 mins. to Hartz Saddle and traverse back along the ridge to the top of the outcrop for another 15 mins. Rap down to the base of the crag to avoid the scrub. Two lines, 30-40m high, were done in 2007 and 2008, the steep slabs to the left which go at about gr.16 and another steeper line (gr.~18) straight up the middle of the cliff topped by a large scary chockstone. A direct start (18M0) to the slabs was also done in Feb.2015.
1. | Devil-May-Care | 30m | 18 | ||
Up the middle of the lower, slabby, cliff. An unprotected gr.16 start comes in from the L. The difficult direct start can be protected with small wires. | |||||
Phil Robinson, 2007, Direct Start: Phil Robinson and Chris Rathbone, Feb. 2015 |
2. | Lucky Devil | 40m | 18 | ||
Straight up the middle of the steeper RH buttress, topped by a large scary chockstone. | |||||
Phil Robinson, 2008. |
Lion Rock
The track from Cockle Creek comes out in South Cape Bay by a large intrusion of dolerite, Lion Rock. The CCT mounted an expedition led by Tom Terry to climb it in 1969 and reached the Rock by wading across the narrow channel at low tide. The "route" went straight up the seaward face (50m) on rotten rock and descent was by a very risky abseil.
Mt Field
There have been several routes done on the big cliffs of Mt Field West. You can get reasonably close to them on the Florentine Valley logging roads.
Longer Climb | 130m | 17 | |||
Starts in the middle of the tallest part of the cliff and takes the very wide chimney like feature to the top. 1. 43m. Climb easily up left tending ramp to the line then climb pleasant corner crack to a ledge at the top of the flake. 2. 45m. Crux. Continue up corner crack to sloping ledge then climb face above via the amazing sharp flakes and double layaways. Belay in chimney with sloping base high on right. 3. 40m. Easy. Climb chimney then scramble up easy ground to the bushy ledge (further cliffs behind). Decent can miraculously be made down the gully to the right. | |||||
Marcel and Hamish Jackson (alt), Adele Vincent, 1996. |
Short Climb | 47m | 18 | |||
Clean corner to bottom left of large amphitheatre. Climb corner crack past very loose spike then step around arete to right and continue up ledgey face to the top. A descent gully is present to the left. | |||||
Hamish Jackson, Adele Vincent, 1996. |
Cosmic Comics | 20 | ||||
No description - there is a picture in Rock #34. | |||||
Hamish Jackson 1998. |
Scud | 21 | ||||
A big R facing corner. No description - there is a picture in Rock #34. | |||||
Marcel Jackson 1998. |
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