Eldon

10 minutes flat walk
Afternoon sun
Short sandstone
Introduction
Eldon is a small sandstone crag with some great steep rock. It's pretty limited in scope and won't be everyone's cup of tea, but it has the advantages of a flat 10 minute walk in, fun routes on steep & solid sandstone, and a pleasant sunny aspect. It's climbable in winter if the sun is out. There is quite a lot of other rock in the general area to be explored, for instance in the Rhyndaston Gorge and the Gravelly Ridge CA.
Please respect the closed projects.
History
The crag was found by Dave Humphries and Jon Nermut in 2013, and developed over the winter.
Access
Eldon is about 50 minutes drive from Hobart via Richmond and Colebrook. At Colebrook turn right on to Eldon Rd, towards Tunnack. Follow this up over the hill and down the other side. At the bridge head left, onto the gravel road. Follow this until it turns back to bitumen and up the hill. Park on the side of the road just before the gate marked "Eldon Hill". The track starts 50m down the hill from this at a small rock shelf. Follow the red tapes up the hill until you hit an old 4wd track. Turn right on this and follow it out towards the ridge. Just before it heads back right inland, more red tapes head down to the crag.
The crag and access walk are within the Spinning Gum Conservation Area which is public land.
GPS
CodeDescriptionUTM ZoneUTM EastingUTM NorthingHeightLatLong
ELD000
Eldon - Parking
55G
536508
5296342
470
-42.48441
147.44421
ELD010
Eldon - Bonsai Buttress
55G
536080
5296038
-42.48717
147.43903
Track to Bonsai Buttress
Show in Google Earth

Bonsai Buttress

1.Minimalism8m18 
Wall around to the left of the crag. A game of find the clean holds.
Jon Nermut, Jun 2013.
2.Luke's Climb10m18 
Up the yellow corner on the left side of the crag. At the roof either step left on to the face, or better, head out right (needs some more cleaning).
Luke Einoder, June 2013.
3.Flossin20 
Start up the corner, then head right through thin holds to juggy arete.
Fraser L-R and Samson Stensleton June 2021
★ 4.Shibari Swami825 
Boulder up steep start on thin holds. Up R to pocket, then back left and up. Jump start goes at 22.
Fraser L-R June 2021
★ 5.Banzai!10m23 
Up the wall then head left through the bulge.
Jon Nermut, May 2013
★ 6.He's Lichen It10m22 
Up the wall then through the steep bulge.
Guy Abell, June 2013.
★★ 7.She's Lichen It10m23 
Start up He's Lichen It and go right through the steep section to join Bonsai.
Guy Abell, June 2013.
★★ 8.Bonsai10m22 
Very nice steep climbing up through the bulge using some awesome slots.
Dave Humphries, April 2013.
★★ 9.Piss Ant10m17 
Nice climbing up the pillar. There is a harder variant on the face to the right.
Jon Nermut, April 2013.
10.The Runt8m17 
To the left of Rude Not To.
Dave Humphries, April 2013.
★ 11.Rude Not To8m19 
Up the nice golden rock. Wish it was longer!
Dave Humphries, April 2013.

Roof Area

This crag is about 50m south of the Bonsai crag and consists of two large 6-7m roofs. The rock isn't as good as on Bonsai, but is good enough.
12.A Pig and a Flingo8m20 
Start at the left of the edge of the roof, and climb awkwardly up the face until you get to some nicer steep jugs.
Jon Nermut, May 2013.
★ 13.A Clip and a Swingo8m22 
The jugs start huge and reduce to good at the top. Start at the left edge keeping right of APF. Round the lip and keep going to the anchors.
Dave Humphries May 2013.
★★ 14.Suspension Trauma9m23 
Start at the right side of the roof, out to the scoop, then head left to jugs and up crack on head wall.
Fraser L-R June 2021 Bolted Dave Humphries 2013
15.Project 
Project (open). Start at the right side of the roof, out to the scoop, then head straight out through the scoop to the lip.
16.The Manxster8m22 
Start in between the two roofs, climb the brown rock through the roof then awkwardly up on to the face.
Jon Nermut, Jun 2013.
 
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