By Kim Robinson, Adam Donoghue

Climbing in the Tyndall Range is only in its infancy: it will no doubt be the scene of some more hard and long free and aid routes for the next generation. It's a fantastic area for a walk, some great camping and offers unique climbing in a picturesque setting above a 1km wide lake. The climbs here are all hard earned; with the approach, logistics of getting to the base, and the challenge of getting back up all contributing to a good sense of satisfaction...post ascent.

It worth considering the fact that all the longer routes here are abseil in and climb out - so it is a NOT great place to do your first multi-pitch adventure, as abseiling off is not really a viable option. Even the sport routes here have quite spaced bolting.

The angle is often slabby on the surrounding buttresses, while the main face feels steeper with most terrain around vertical and a few overhanging sections thrown in to add to the exposure. The rock is conglomerate and is very compact due to glaciation in the area.
Being located on the West Coast of Tasmania, the Tyndall Range is best enjoyed from November to April during a solid weather forecast. Take winter clothing and good rainwear as the weather can change rapidly - even in summer. Also a map/compass or a GPS are needed to get to the cliff. An important thing to remember here is that this is a very special spot for local bushwalkers so please make an extra effort to minimize your impact. One of the more striking things about being in the area is the unspoilt nature of the surroundings - please keep it this way.

Several years ago Doug Fife realised the potential of the 300m cliffs above Lake Huntley. He, with various partners including most of Tasmania's willing, tried to find a route that would go. The cliff proved a formidible challenge with years and partners passing by before a route was pioneered up the large striking corner of the main face. The route was climbed with Garn Cooper and there was a standoff between the two with regards to the naming - 'Leap of Faith' or 'Wake in Fright' - the latter referring to a broken hammock incident during the night. 'Leap of Faith' won out and set the scene that the cliff was open for business.
During this period Adam Donoghue began a long distance relationship with the direct line of 'The Healer'. The crux pitch through the amazing overhanging prow took three shifts of lead and over 15 hours to establish - such is the difficulty of new routing in the Tyndalls. Then in 2005 Adam was back with Gareth Llewellin to establish a route that indicated the potential for quality long and sustained free routes with the climb 'Deeper Water'. There are many lines in waiting, though the effort and commitment required will stop all but the die hard suffer-fest junkies out there. If establishing a new route please respect the effort and vision of the routes already established here by using natural gear where available and bolts only as a last resort.

THE DRIVE: The Tyndall Range is approximately 4hrs drive from Hobart (281km) followed by 2-3hrs walk. To get there from Hobart, drive to Queenstown then follow the main road north (A10) towards Burnie past the Strahan turnoff. At 13km from Queenstown you will get to a right turn onto the B28, signed as 'Lake Plimsol'. Take this and follow it for another 11km until you reach a gravel road on the right. Park just before the gate (be sure not to block the gate). The driving is now over and the walking begins.

THE WALK: The following has been updated August 2021 in consultation with PWS in an effort to reduce direct and indirect impacts.

Walk on the 4WD road past the gate, over bridge and after about 600m turn left onto another road. After another 200m you will see a walking register box which marks the start of the track through the bush. After some mud and scrub the track follows an open and well trodden path for most of the gain up the hill. There is a reliable stream off to the left about half way up the hill just past the large boulder. At the top of the hill sidle the mountain top on button grass and cushion plants. Now it's worth taking your bearings as you need to break from the walking track and head ESE towards the cliff top camping area. The 'Leave main track here (turn left towards cairn on horizon)' (see GPS coordinates below) is about the same point as when the ridge to the left of the track becomes less steep and the walkers track starts to descend up ahead.
The plateau vegitation here is particularly sensitive and we would like to prevent new tracks forming across the plateau. As you leave the main track, head for a slight saddle and fan out as you go to minimise new tracks forming. Avoid walking on cushion plants and stick to rocky sections where possible. head SSE for 5 mins past the cairn on the saddle to the small tarn. When approaching the tarn you can see peak '1037' (on map). There is a large white quartz boulder on the left shoulder of the peak and camping area is just past this boulder. From the turnoff to the cave should take 20-30 minutes.

In general as climbers we should try not to promote other user groups coming off track to this area so be careful with your use of social media, ie think twice before sharing your off track camping in the area.

Most climbers stay near the cliff top a couple of hundred metres back from the cliff edge (see camping area GPS point). Where possible camp on firm surfaces off the sensitive vegetation.
Please don't collect or burn firewood as it's prohibited in this area. There are numerous small tarns for water nearby the cliff top. Take care to ensure that you don't wash anything directly in these tarns. If camping under overhanging sections of cliff remember that rain may not wash away things so it's well worth walking away for #1's.
For #2's in this area the first and preferred option in an alpine environment is to bring a poo tube, some doggy bags and pack it all out. For the good but less preferred method see the section below - you might be able to climb hard but do you know how to shit in the bush? How to Make Poo Porridge The supreme method for minimum impact pooing involves a technique called 'Poo Porridge' or 'PP'. The alpine environment here means that if you dig a shallow grave and use excessive loo paper that chances are it will still be there in 2 years time... not pretty or hygenic for other users. Most climbers technique of shoving a rock on it won't cut it here, it is easy for animals to disturb it and surface water easily carries the parasites and bacteria to other water sources. 'PP' has been proven in studies to breakdown in a fraction of the time by mixing soil nutrients through the poo. * Step 1: Find a site 100m or more from camp, and downhill from water. * Step 2: Dig a hole with a nut key or rock 10 to 15cm deep (the top 20cm of soil has the best nutrients for breaking down poo). * Step 3: Clinch your business deal. * Step 4: Now for the porridge bit, it sounds a bit ugly but this bit is strangely satisfying. Grab a stick and mix dirt well through the poo, the more mixed the better (it will even look less like poo after this simple trick). You can now put the remainder of dirt on top and leave stick poking out to warn others, by the time the stick falls over it's safe terrain. * Step 5: Ideally carry the paper used out in a ziplock bag - it's light and takes much longer to breakdown than the poo itself. However it you choose to leave the paper, mix it well with the porridge and pee on it if you have a reserve tank (this speeds up the breakdown process).