New Routes from NY

A couple of new routes from our recent Tassie Trip

Tasman Peninsula

The Swell Repeller 55m 24 sport
Two pitches of stunning arêtes and all bolts. A great bad weather option when the Tote is being hammered by the swell. Fix a 60m rope to double rings as for the Totem Pole descent but rap diagonally towards the ocean (south east) heading down a scungy corner to a ledge. Continue rapping down wall below to arrive at double FHs on small ledge just left of knife blade arête about 5m above the ocean. Pitch One 40m 24 - Climb amazing sustained arête past 10 FHs that get fairly spaced as you get higher. Belay at vegetated ledge at DBB. Pitch Two 15m 20 - Up thin crack splitting arête above with great exposure to small ledge. Sling tooth with large sling and climb easily to top. Belay off the Tote's rap rings. FFA Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith 3.1.2006

Tyndall Ranges - Lake Huntley

Bleeding Ferals Prow 45m 21 mixed
Needs another 4 or 5 bolts to make it sane. Unfortunately we only brought two bolts with us! Located on end of second buttress north east of camping cave over looking the lake. This buttress has a distinct red capstone layer that is visible from above Rain Dancer (about 300m away). Walk to end of jutting buttress and locate single FH anchor bolt on last vertical rock before congomlorate ridge slabs down below. A #2 cam slot is about 5m back from this bolt anchor and should be used to backup this bolt anchor. Fix a single rope and rap 40m down the ridge to the large flat ledge (sleeps 5 if you are keen!). This is the second ledge down the route and is big enough to walk around on un-roped. Use fixed rope as anchor for belayer. The climb starts on the far left end of the ledge (facing cliff). Up left side of prow (no gear) to gain flake and marginal wires at 7m. Up flake to gain arête proper (FH). Boldly up face on the left side of the arête (crux) and trend rightwards to terrifyingly exposed position on the arête with bolt miles below and out of sight. Whittle in some poor trad behind crystals and climb jugs to small ledge. Continue up slabby arête above on spaced trad gear to top. Would be a much nicer route once retrobolted. FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 6.1.2006

We also did a new route at the Paradiso.

Random People 15m 24/25 mixed
Locate din the middle of the crag between the main wall and Aracknaphbia. FHs through rooflet down low (crux) then easily up featured face above to double ring lower-off past another 3 FHs and a #3 cam slot. The crux is quite out of keeping with the rest of the route. Neil Monteith 3.1.2006 (one rest due to slimy rock)