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A new route from Garry, on a new face - "on a whole new face on mt brown. We named it the Hidden Face its 150m high and is awesome. Faces south and is 500m around right of the othe one"

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  1. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Heres the full description:

    Hidden Face

    The Hidden face is a awesome new face on the south eastern side of Mt Brown. The face receives very little sun, but remarkably stays quite dry. Access is via abseil and the only way out is up as it is cut off by sea in both directions.
    The access to the cliff top is a 10 min walk from the trig point (if you know where you are going).

    ★★★ No Name 140m 23

    The first route up the Hidden face and will more than likely be the exit and entry for the whole cliff. The route is fully bolted. Recommended Rack: 20 quick draws and double ropes.
    1a. 50m Project. Alex and Garry’s Project finishing at the first belay
    1b. 50m 21 The right hand line. Done in one long pitch from the ground. Has everything from jugs to hand jams.
    2. 35m 23 Continue up the line above, steep and pumpy.
    3. 35m 22 From the big ledge, climb easily up to the roof, then turn it on.
    4. 25m 18 Up to the top.
    Alex Lewis and Garry Phillips Oct 2010.

    Garry also gave the climb a seriousness grade of S2 and writes:

    On a recent trip to the dolomites it was interesting to see the way they graded routes in terms of there seriousness. They use to scales S1 to S6 (bolts) and R1 to R6 (trad). 
    So that is why I put a S2 grade on it and is good way to grade the route. Its like giving a route a heap of detailed info similar to what they use in mountaineering.

    BOLTS
    S1 = Means safe climbing with good belays and short distance between bolts. Falls up to 4m.
    S2 = Distant bolts and compulsory passages from one bolt to another. Potential length of a fall: a maximum of 10 meters fall with no danger
    S6 = Partially bolted but far from crux, long parts (more than 20m) from which a fall could be mortal.
    TRAD
    R1 = Easy to protect, always solid with few compulsory passages. Belays are bomber.
    R6 = Not possible to protect, but for short and insignificant passages far from the cruxes. A fall could be mortal.
     
    If people are interested i can write the rest up, if no one is interested then no prob.

    1. Nice work Garry! How many more routes on this face?

      1. cheers Doug

        There are a few to do down there. This is prob the easiest line though and most will all need to be bolted as gear is sparce.

        I took a whipper of the 2nd pitch when i pulled a flake off.  went around 10 meters for a flight.  

        The first pitch Alex lead is amazing steep and techo