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One thing I like about Climbing Magazine and their related website is the regular feature of a classic climb. I thought this would be a fun thing for The Sarvo too. My suggestion this week is Fiddlesticks. One of the few quality easier climbs on The Organ Pipes, it is found on The Flange - which is home to probably the greatest concentration of stars on The Mountain. Fiddlesticks stands out as a pleasant cruise amongst a slew of much more difficult routes for the novice to aspire towards, or simply as a bit of fun for more expert climbers. A little rattly lower down, the route gets better and better the higher you climb. These days, with sixty metre ropes, its level of enjoyment is enhanced if you climb it as a single monster pitch, finishing out on the arete to the left of the top V-groove. A wonderful route, well worthy of the three stars in the guidebook.

In the meantime, take a look at's featured classic of the moment: Bishop's Terrace in Yosemite Valley. (I can personally vouch that this is a gorgeous route, maybe even as good as Fiddlesticks. Even if you are climbing much harder and are visiting the valley for more ambitious undertakings, it's a nice little gem to romp up during an "active rest" day.) Of special interest is the third paragraph, where one of our very own local climbers is mentioned.


  1. I like the idea... a good counterpoint to the choss. Need some photos for the next one.

    Btw Doug, knowing how much of a fan you are of spelling correctness, thesarvo has no space and no capitals (wink)

    1. Doug Bruce AUTHOR

      ... thesarvo has no space and no capitals ...

      ... okay, noted ... (tongue)

  2. I also can vouch for this route too.  It was fantastic!  When I did it I made it much more exciting by doing the full 55m in a single rope length!  At 5.8 the climbing wasn't worrying me but after 40m or so I was beginning to run out of cams with only tip sizes left!.  I remember running it out and then still 6m from the top having to really work at getting a large nut balanced sideways into a very stubborn and near parallel crack. It was a great day in Yosemite sun! :-)