Blog from November, 2010

Climbing after work

Is anyone interested in climbing around hobart after work now that the days are a bit longer. Not fussy about where, just want to get some hours in during the week.

Drop me a line if you are interested.

0424993605

Guy

Oatlands Conditions?

Anyone checked out Oatlands lately? Wondering if it has dried up at all so the caves are climbable.

Cheers

Craig

New to Hobart area

Hi all

Looking for people to go climbing with around Hobart. Done a bit of climbing but been out of it for a while. Looking to get back into it over the summer and get fit again. Really keen on outdoor climbing sport or trad.

Sadly I don't have much gear at the moment as I lost it all a few months ago. (robbed) so anyone with a rope and some gear that could help me out would be awesome. Have days off during the week as well so weekday climbers would be great.

Email Kiwiclimber@mnteverest.net or a txt at 0466583838

Mark

Visiting Boulderer

Hello,

I'm visiting Hobart next week, from Tuesday. Will be there for a few days and wondered if anyone feels like showing me some local boulders?

I'll be in Tasmania for about a month and a half, mostly wwoofing. Will have some more time free from Jan onwards. If anyone feels like doing some bouldering around that period, I'm looking for adventures and people to have them with! Happy to hike around looking for boulders if anyone feels like some exploration. Also keen to sample anything going.

And one more thing - will the lake at Oatlands have receded by mid Jan? Contemplating spending some time there.

Cheers!

-Robin

Ropes left last night on Moonraker second abseil.

One hung up, couldnt budge it so we fixed the other and rapped to the ground.

Plan to collect them this weekend, but if anyone else climbs moonraker before and feels

like freeing them for me i will happily pay a beer collection fee.

many thanks

Nick

Email: platypus.gust@gmail.com

Booty on Barbi de vendetta

Alas... I couldn't get TWO of my hexes out at the first belay of Barbi de vendetta up at The Ben, on Saturday. Never before have I left booty behind! Coercion from a nut-tool and a Sigg bottle weren't sufficient :(

So take a rock with you if you're heading up the route...

Does anyone know what happened here?

http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2010/11/22/3073446.htm

Injured climber winched to safety

Posted Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:04pm AEDT

A rock climber has been taken to the Launceston General Hospital with suspected spinal injuries after a fall on Ben Lomond in state's north east.

It took police more than six hours to rescue the 30 year old solo climber, after he fell into a crevice half way up a rock face.

Paramedics had to climb to reach the patient, who was given first aid before being winched to the ground and put in a rescue helicopter.

Waterworks Quarry

WARNING. A massive rock fall has occurred (18/11/2010) at the LH end of the quarry, above and over Justin's Crack and Spiderman's Arsehole. The cliff here is now extremely dangerous and unstable and more falls over these climbs are likely.

Server Problems

Apologies for the outages on Sunday (I was upgrading stuff), and today.
The domain name has expired and I didnt get any notifications.
Hopefully I can get it fixed tomorrow.
By the way I also registered http://www.thesarvo.com.au

Gear for sale

Hi Guys, got some gear for sale. inspection welcome in south hobart or i can post.  All prices negotiable.

** photos of all the gear can be seen on chockstone forum in this thread**

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=10&MessageID=8067&Replies=0#newpost

Mt Hardwear Ultralamina 32 synthetic sleeping bag. 0 deg C bag, superlight, very mummy shaped bag with a half zip on each side.
http://www.mountainhardwear.com.au/product.cfm?prdID=OU8394&catID=24&parentID=6
$180, does not come with original compression sac, but comes with a sil nylon stuff sac to fit.

Wild Country 1.25 tech friend. $50
i have never used wild country cams so no idea what model/how old etc, but it is in very smooth working order, with very little sling/lobe wear.

BLack diamond Stoppers 4-13 set. $50.
full set, various ages and conditions, comes with a wiregate biner for racking. some slight cable fraying to the size 10, and plastic swage cover damage on the 9 (NOT SWAGE DAMAGE). if you want more detailed photos get in touch.

Castle Hill Bouldering Guidebook $ 30
As new condition, current edition.

Petzl Irvis flex lock 10 point crampons $170 BRAND NEW IN BOX
Glacier Travel/Ski Crampons, 820g/pair. never worn outside of shop.
Medium size linkage bars, suit up to size 42EU.

Black Diamond 6 step aiders. 1 x blue and 1 x red. $60 for both
have seen a bit of use but lots of life left in them.

Alex

The abseil tat at the top of All Systems Go on Northern Buttress has been replaced with a chain - use at your own discretion. 

I found a helmet on the pipes today, if this is your helmet or you'd like to be the new owner, all you have to do is answer the next two questions correctly!

1) What buttress was it found at?

2) What model/colour is it?

Call/message responses to Dave on 0448 0448 85.

First to answer correctly wins! Good luck!

Climb tmrw on the Pipes!?

Give me a buzz if you're keen to head up to the Pipes tmrw (Mon Nov 8th)! Late notice I know... :)

0403217754

Is it possible to PM people thru thesarvo?

It's supposed to be good weather... that would be swell times indeed!!

Cape Raoul Update

Just spent an epic day-trip out onto the Cape. Few Additions/beta for all those hoping to get out there this summer. First up there's a new route on the back of the Pole Dancer pillar, see description below. Possibly more classic than Pole Dancer, doing both makes for a great combo!

First thing though, when the rap stations going across the Wedding cake were installed, captive galvinised chain were used on SS dynabolts. Of course these are now rusting. we replaced two stations with SS hangers plus maillons. However the last rap point and the one on top of the pillar still need upgrading. this is a very simple process, so if your heading out soon get in touch and ill give you the gear to upgrade them. you'll just need to undo the nut, take them off and put the new hanger on the bolt.

Next thing, we added two bolts(just hangers) into the belay notch at the top of Rain of Terror. There are two exisiting U-bolt abseil stations, but these are obsolete(never were much good!) now the best thing to do is a 30m rap from the bolts at the top of Jihad, then another 30m rap from the new bolts. We felt these were required as on windy days, like yesterday, your ropes will get stuck in the notch if u try a full 60m abseil. i know two parties who've suffered this annoying fate. so basically ignore any u-bolts and you'll be fine. this also means a 60m rope is sufficient to get out across Wedding Cake etc.

Also the pond is full of water right now, but maybe take something to treat it with!

simon young

Certified Wise (23 40m)

Climbing up the opposite side of the Pole Dancer pillar, this route combined with Pole Dancer will make for a mind-blowing day out. Slightly trickier, CW provides absorbing, varied and interesting climbing on the best coastal dolerite you'll ever climb.

Access as for Pole Dancer. Instead of heading up the chimney though, scramble up to the notch between the two pillars to a nice ledge.

1) 35m 23 Crank up inital arete, making your way onto the face and over the roof. From the stance blast up the amazing arete enjoying the improbable sequences. Finish on DBB on ledge. 10 bolts

2) 5m 17 Layback the block past two bolts to the summit.

FA: Simon Young, Garry Phillips, Alex Lewis 6/11/2010

Descend as for Pole Dancer.

No natural gear required. Mostly M10x70mm truebolts used.

Renting equipment

Hey guys,

I'm a uni student currently studying down in Hobart and a group of us were thinking of going bouldering around the place. The problem is we don't have a bouldering mat so if anybody is interested in renting out one to us do drop me a line. Thanks!

Yours,

Foong

HP: 0403745432

Email: yichaofoong@msn.com

If you are planning a Tassie Road Trip this summer, the selected best guide to the 20 best venues is available at a discount price from the author. `Climb Tasmania' is normally $44.95, but you can get it for $30 plus postage (about 9 bucks) from Gerry Narkowicz. Email your order to narkowiczg@lcs.tas.edu.au