Just spent an epic day-trip out onto the Cape. Few Additions/beta for all those hoping to get out there this summer. First up there's a new route on the back of the Pole Dancer pillar, see description below. Possibly more classic than Pole Dancer, doing both makes for a great combo!

First thing though, when the rap stations going across the Wedding cake were installed, captive galvinised chain were used on SS dynabolts. Of course these are now rusting. we replaced two stations with SS hangers plus maillons. However the last rap point and the one on top of the pillar still need upgrading. this is a very simple process, so if your heading out soon get in touch and ill give you the gear to upgrade them. you'll just need to undo the nut, take them off and put the new hanger on the bolt.

Next thing, we added two bolts(just hangers) into the belay notch at the top of Rain of Terror. There are two exisiting U-bolt abseil stations, but these are obsolete(never were much good!) now the best thing to do is a 30m rap from the bolts at the top of Jihad, then another 30m rap from the new bolts. We felt these were required as on windy days, like yesterday, your ropes will get stuck in the notch if u try a full 60m abseil. i know two parties who've suffered this annoying fate. so basically ignore any u-bolts and you'll be fine. this also means a 60m rope is sufficient to get out across Wedding Cake etc.

Also the pond is full of water right now, but maybe take something to treat it with!

simon young

Certified Wise (23 40m)

Climbing up the opposite side of the Pole Dancer pillar, this route combined with Pole Dancer will make for a mind-blowing day out. Slightly trickier, CW provides absorbing, varied and interesting climbing on the best coastal dolerite you'll ever climb.

Access as for Pole Dancer. Instead of heading up the chimney though, scramble up to the notch between the two pillars to a nice ledge.

1) 35m 23 Crank up inital arete, making your way onto the face and over the roof. From the stance blast up the amazing arete enjoying the improbable sequences. Finish on DBB on ledge. 10 bolts

2) 5m 17 Layback the block past two bolts to the summit.

FA: Simon Young, Garry Phillips, Alex Lewis 6/11/2010

Descend as for Pole Dancer.

No natural gear required. Mostly M10x70mm truebolts used.

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2 Comments

  1. Doug Bruce

    Nice work, Simon, Garry & Alex!!!

  2. Simon Young AUTHOR

    Another one out there. On the Pole Axed pillar. Start in same notch as PD/CW

    Disaster Master 26 45m *
    1) 20 25m climb face opposite CW past bolts and natural runners to spacious ledge.
    2) 26 10m crank up thin face above, step L then to summit.
    FA Simon Young, Owen Davis, Steve Goss 20/11/2010

    15m rap off Pole Axed side to belay. 25m rap to notch.

    Disaster Master - Pole Axed linkup **
    A much better way to climb the pillar.
    1)DM first pitch to ledge
    2) step right and up Pole Axed( bolts)