Blog from January, 2013

hey guys,

my friend Thomas accidently left 2 cams (0.75 camalot and 1? wild country friend) at the top of Second Coming 25 at the Ampethetre ledge.

 

couple of guys repeated this later in the afternoon, one sounded french. I was on the top of skyrocket.....and friendly words exchanged but i forgot to go down and get them. if anyone knows these guys it would be great if they can get in contact with me. I am staying at CJs or my no. is 040285567

 

Cheers,

 

Grosey

I'm looking now for climbing partners to Launceston and Hobart, ... to climb mainly multi pitch routes. I'm leaving Tassie the 18th of february. I have full rack and ropes.See you soon.

Nicolas Pietrenko. Tel : 0499724266.

WARNING Rock Fall in Chasm

Garry has found there has been a major rock fall at the back of the Chasm, right on the abseil line. A block the size of a large refrigerator plus smaller stuff. He reckons the whole back of the chasm may be unstable and is warning everyone to stay clear till it is looked at. Spread the word if you can for climbers to be extra careful and to inspect the area  from below to assess the situation before committing to an abseil down from Northern Buttress.

A friend of mine lost a full rack of climbing gear recently on Ben Lomand.  Thought to be lost Near base of Rajah or at base of descent track from top of Frews Flutes.  If anyone finds it please call Rob Hales on 0409111225

For those interested in climbing at the Mersey cliffs, there has been a couple changes to accessing the cliff recently. The previous 'nondescript' start where one wandered down from the lookout to gain the track was becoming fairly 'descript' with the continued traffic, and concerns have been raised about curious hikers getting into positions they shouldn't. As such, all traces of an access track leading down from the lookout have been removed, and it would better if it remained thus. The new access track for climbers starts about 50m back up the trail, about 12m past the 'Bush Tucka' sign on the right if coming in from the parking lot. This may get moved even further back along the track in future depending on how things develops, so check the guide posted on this sight to make sure you know where the trail starts. I understand  this isn't really the season for this crag, but still thought it worth mentioning just in case. Also, it is suggested to use restraint concerning any new route development at this current time until a few things get sorted out with the Parks. Thanks

Hi All,

my name is Mark Feeney, I'm from NSW and I'll be in Tassie for the month of february. i'm looking for a climbing partner for launceston/freycinet area. I'll be keen to climb most weekends and maybe some weekdays, i have a rope and a full rack. sport i lead to about 22, and trad i lead to about 18. my number is 0423 812 670.

cya

Nerfertiti double warning

I bet that got everyones attention.

My second today felt she could have easily pulled out a flake/block on the right hand wall a metre or two above the teatree. I would have suggested she sensitively cleaned it... but i didn't want my pack and shoes squished. Maybe its locked in some how i'm not sure.

The controversial bolt belay is strangely hard to reach, if u r a short bugger don't get too excited about an easy belay set up. there is a third bolt a bit lower so u could use that and some natural gear to make something adequate.

 this is not an ethical or personal attack

just sayin

 

Dave, How about topos and photos of all those routes you and friends did on the way to the end of Cape Raoul? Shells of Rheban etc.The descriptions would be a lot easier to follow.

Kim and I tried a big line there years ago and backed off because of loose rock, lack of gear and difficulty.We didn't know where you had been at that stage.

Phil

Possibly left an orange Gri gri 2 and screw gate biner at Hillwood on Jan 6th. Has anyone picked it up? Cheers!

Climbing around Hobart

Hi All,

I am coming to Tasmania from Canada for the month of February to visit family around Hobart, and would really love to get out climbing while I am there. I was wondering if there are any local climbers out there who wouldn't mind me taging along for a couple days. I am a fairly beginner climber but would love to see what climbing in Tasmania is all about!

Looking forward to it!

Claire

Diamond Peak photos

A group of 5 hardy souls recently completed a 12 day mission to traverse the Prince of Wales range in the South West, one of Tassie's hardest walks.

Aaron Scott sent me these photos of Diamond Peak, which is the biggest peak in the range. AFAIK there are no routes on it besides wandering up the back.

Mainly because its an epic just getting there, and the very overhanging nature of the main face.

 

Canyoning in Tasmania

Hey guys,

Whats the go with canyoning in Tasmania? Are there any guides or online websites around that anyone knows of?

 

Shaun

Picked up in the carpark prior to Christmas and presume it has fallen out of somebody's car. Let me know if you are missing it.

Hi there I'm looking for climbing partners who are heading to Freycinet Peninsula this summer. I'm a 32 year old Finnish woman who has just moved into the area and will be working in Freycinet Lodge over the summer. .

I've been on/off climbing for a few years but quite new to trad and quite a chicken at leading, way braver seconding though =) I'm an attentive and a good belayer.

Sports climbwise I'm leading eternal 18s but can second harder grades. Ive been backpacking/travelling light so I havent got any gear with me (but harness+belay device), I might be buying a new rope soon.

Ive just bought a 2wd car which can just about make it to Blue bottle bay car park. If you are heading this way and need a belay bitch give me a shout =)  Cheers

0466 537 634 Anna

 

Hi all,

I am an exchange student to UTAS (Sandy Bay) newly arrived from northern BC, Canada.  I got into climbing with a bunch of rope rescue geeks, so my rigging and decison-making tends to be pretty conservative.  Most of my experience is sport - I am comfortable on lead to mid 5.10s (not sure what that amounts to in Aussie grading), and have done a little bit of trad on easier grades.  I also enjoy slacklining immensely, and would love to tag along with anybody setting up a highline or just slacklining at ground level.  If anybody is planning a trip that could use another member, please let me know:  xenicus@live.com.  I am free the week of the twentieth, and then after school starts February 18th.

cheers,

Chris

Freedom

A question for Jake.... I know you are out there somewhere.... I saw your slack line in situ across rock away gully a week or two back.........

In regards to Freedom.... I am under the impression that it is located between Icarus and Bismark..... In the L to R re-edit of the guide is has been listed (incorrectly) to the R of Incision.... Can you advise please?

BTW, how was the slack lining?

Some of you may have met me about the place but I am a fairly recent Hobart resident of the last 18 months. I've just recently headed up the mountain and noted that there is a lot of work that has commenced on access tracks, tags and the like. At the outset I must congratulate those that have taken the time and effort to do this, the small tags are unobtrusive and a good way to mark the start of tracks. I am not sure if this is in conjunction with Wellington Park management or not, I know that there were murmurings of this about the place. I must admit that I am a little disturbed by the extent of some of the track clearing that has been done. Climbing for me is a minimal disturbance activity, I can't speak for all others but part of the enjoyment for myself and many other climbers I know in all parts of the world is the sense of untouched natural beauty. I have at times taken secateurs or small folding saws into places that I have frequented to keep tracks just clear enough that you aren't getting a face full of the dozens of spikey plants in the Australian bush however the works that have been done on the mountain I feel are a little excessive.

I am also somewhat shocked to read that people have been "gardening" established vegetation on routes such as Digitalis. On previous visits I have also seen shrubs and small trees around Great Tier and Bulging Buttress have been removed from cracks and ledges on the rock face. Removing established vegetation as opposed to the odd bit of grass or moss ceases to be gardening and progresses to vandalism. Established vegetation in cracks and on ledges are a part of the trad climbing landscape, they often form holds or viable protection, but this is also their home. We are all temporary and transient visitors to these places and should be more considerate and cognisant of the environment and ecosystem that vegetation in the vertical world represents.

Aside from this removal of vegetation in Wellington Park and National Parks/Conservation Areas is illegal. If you happen to find yourself with a new gardening tool for Christmas or a birthday present then get your fix at home on the wood pile or the neighbour's fruit trees, not halfway up a cliff where a warratah or hakea seems inconveniently placed. Again I must stress that I am appreciative of the efforts made by people to improve the tracks to single clear points of access however if there is to be significant work or removal of vegetation or even new routes for that matter then the pulse of the wider climbing community should be sought not just those who have the time, tools and inclination to act on the community's behalf.

I am more than happy to discuss

Regards, Tim Smith

New Routes and News 2013

Simon Young has done the steep bulge to the right of Remembrance, which has some great climbing on steep water washed rock:

★★ 3. V 17m 25
A fun little sport climb starting 5m R of Remembrance and climbing to the same anchor. Climb up and into shallow R facing corner, continue up to steep bulge. Jugs lead to good side-pulls on the face above. Head up and R before stepping back L to lower-off. Bestest 25 on the buttress.
Simon Young, Jan 2013

Number 3 in the topo below:

Digitalis Dispatched

Yesterday saw the removal of the last remaining shrub (waratah) at the top of this route. Never easy to negotiate past, this shrub has been taunting climbers for the past year since the Robinson gang gardened the dirct finish. Back to yesterday..... An older gentleman tooled up with his new Xmas pressie (retractable pruning saw), made short work of this recidivist offender. Waratah dispatched! It is worth noting that if you've not done the direct finish yet you might be tempted to include a couple of additional hand to fist size cams to augment what you would normally take.  Is the direct finish better than the original? My money is on the original finish.... Any comments?

Road closures

For anyone that missed it, the roads to both the Tasman (arthur highway) and Freycinet peninsulas (Coles bay rd) are currently closed and all the roads in Freycinet national park are closed.

the police site has the latest:

http://police.tas.gov.au/community-alerts/

Pinnacle Rd to mt wellington was closed yesterday (it always is on days of extreme fire danger), but appears to be open today


Lost and found

 

A Sony Xperia was found on top of Bare Rock after a party completed Orange of Bisso a few days ago. PM me if the phone is yours and I will post it back to you. The same party also handed me a bolt and hanger which was pulled out by hand on the upper part of the route. I will check out exactly where (and maybe how) when things cool off a little.