New Routes and News 2014

Nice one Phil, renamed you post to be the 2014 new routes thread, seeing as you got the first one!

Hey all, Lorien and I did what seems to be a new route on the arete immediately right of indian summer on bulging buttress, below the rap chains at the end of P1 cracked pepper. climbing is about 17/18 on good edges and jugs but may feel more like 19 with the small gear and the spice of a 5/6m run out above said small but good gear. The climb takes doubles of mid sized micro cams and a good hand slot after the run out. Good fun and deserving of a star

Just checking if this has been done yet before we write it up

*Spice Trade 25m 19

Starts from the left hand end of Cracked Pepper "ledge" or step right as an alternative 2nd pitch to Indian Summer. Climb the lovely little arete from the shrubbery placing small cams where the opportunities arise. From the rooflet there's some healthy spice, protected by a micro cam on the right, to larger holds and eventually a mid sized break to soothe the spice. Double up on small cams/micro cams. Rap anchors for CP at top. Lorien Martin and Tim Smith Feb 2014

Given that the arête is only about 18 - 20 metres long, perhaps this bit: "5/6m run out above (said) small (but good) gear" should be in the description and not just in the post … if it makes it in the guide as a separate/distinct climb. I've put the two bits in brackets because they are somewhat superfluous.

BTW Tony, do you really want that apostrophe in your post? 

From Garry at Fingal:

★★ Mr Potato 18m 25 Þ
Your friend and mine. Starts up Peppa Pig but at the top of the corner head up and right past 3 BR.
Garry Phillips Feb 2014.

Organ pipes, Breaker spur area.

Quick note to say that yes we will paint the anchors we placed R of Equipoise the other day (Adam and Hamish). I haven’t done the route in the quite style I’d like, but am posting this as I do recognise it is important not to place shiny bolts on this cliff, especially in the more obvious spots... and will think of a name soon.

Also did another new route in that area a few weeks back

Hormesis 50m 20 * 

What doesn't kill you makes you stronger. Add a grade if you’re not used to loose rock and long run-outs (and take off 2 stars). Add a star if you’re training for the mountains! Airy and exposed. 

Ascends the face right of Breakout, through some small roofs and open faces reaching a ledge on the left at 40m, then back right onto the face again to finish at larger ledge. Traverse easily left to fixed sling anchor atop CP to descend. 

Will send in topo later on

Hamish. 

Did the last of our projects on the right side of Central Buttress:

★★ Wedgetail 28m 22 12Þ
The orange arete to the left of Transfusion, flanked by greenery. Start 5m up to the R of Heat. Sustained climbing on edges and flakes to the top of the pillar.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Mar 2014.

This unfashionable corner of the pipes has turned into a good little area with 10 new pitches over the last 2 summers:

Heat: 21, 21, 20, 21

Wedgetail: 22

Peregrine: 20, 23

Remembrance: 20, 21

V: 25

Nice one mate, on a side note apparently someone has broken a crucial hold off V and its not longer 25. I can't confirm this though.

Holy Moly! Just sent the best route of my life. At the Star Factory. Its all gear. All placed on lead on the redpoint. None of the bolts of any of the routes on this cliff were clipped for the ascent. I strongly suggest not clipping them for future ascents, although it would be a great climb to go up Hubris into the finish of Simply the Best. Many options with link ups on this cliff. The Star Factory is still cranking out some amazing routes!!!

***** Hubris 30m 29

Start up the offwidth roof L of Simply the Best. Up the line to the higher of the two traversing cracks via some committing moves. Traverse R climbing past STB. Clipping the bolts on that route is a serious no-no. Continue to the flaring corner for the, dare I say it, DIABOLICAL crux sequence. Continue up the line. The climb finishes when you are standing on top of the cliff. You need a 5 friend and 4 camalot for the bottom offwidth. The rest of the route takes all sorts of gear. Double rack from green alien to #2 camalots with a bunch of slings or just use two ropes.

John Fischer, April 03 2014

Hey guys, with the help of my outdoor ed teacher Mr. Narkowicz I've bolted and led my very first route at the Mersey Cliffs. I called it The Greatest View because the views at the cliffs are pretty great So basically I have no idea how to write this up so I'll just use the format of how the previous new routes have been written?

The Greatest View 17m 20 8Þ

Up the arete lined with bolts before the tomahawk buttress. Fun steep layback at the start and then great climbing on the top section.

Isaac Lethborg, May 31st 2014

A little bit late I realise (technical issues!), but on 4^th June 2014, I managed to complete a trad crack project at the Star Factory, giving the crag another three star route:

Augmentium  30m  30 ***

Superb and safe climbing up the obvious crack line left of Simply The Best. Start as for the brilliant looking route Hubris, but instead of traversing right, continue straight up, with funky moves through the technical crux. Blast up the sustained crack above, then left of the bush and up the easy, pleasant corner to the top. 

Ascent was done after multiple top-rope/self belay sessions. All gear was placed on the lead and that is what it is graded for. The gear ranges from black & blue Aliens to 4.5 Camelot and various wires. An ascent done in better style (ie ground up/on-sight etc) is totally possible as the gear is bomber.

It's thoroughly enjoyable climbing, up a stunning line, on some of the best quality rock at the Factory – I heartily recommend it!

Andrew (Squib) Cubbon

Roger did this new route on Flange Buttress uphill from Nefarious which is bound to be popular given the grade and location:

★★ 3. Princess 20m 19
Pleasant face climbing on the wall right of Drama Queen. There is a crux getting up the first part of the headwall. 9 U's plus top anchors.
R. Parkyn, J. Parkyn, Nov 2014.

Some new stuff out of Kempton Quoin. The best ones are still projects. Smash the Beetles gives relatively easy access to the top of the cliff for several buttresses on either side which havent been climbed on before for anyone keen on new routes.

Smashed Wall
Up and left again from Wedge Buttress is Smashed Wall, which at the right hand end has the smashed remains of quite a large tree which fell from the top of the cliff in 2014.

4. Smash the Beetles 22m 20 8Þ
The corner on the R end of the wall. Mostly pretty cruisey, except where you are forced to step into the corner, which is harder lower down. From the the anchor you can walk to the top of the adjacent buttresses.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Sep 2014.

Wedge Buttress
From Right Stuff Buttress, next left is Wedge Buttress, which is about 45m high.

5. Project 30m 13Þ
Project - up the pillar on the far LHS of the buttress.

6. Project 18m 9Þ
Project - face starting off the right side of the ledge.

★ 7. Damage 28m 18 10Þ
The line of FH up the face on the LHS of the foot of the buttress. Nice continuous climbing on good holds. Might get two stars with a bit of traffic to clean it up a bit more.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Nov 2014.

Vagabond Buttress

★★ 18. The Battle 12m 21 5Þ
4m left of Vagabond is a corner system. Climb up to a rest on the pedestal, then step R and climb the face. A nice little route that needs extending to the top of the buttress.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Sep 2014.

Augmentium 30m 30*** downgrade - The Star Factory

After chatting with the second ascentionist, we are in agreement that the route should be downgraded to 29. Regardless of the grade, it's still mega climbing, so get amongst it!!

(It's pretty condition dependant, so if it's wet, you can give yourself the 30 tick! - but much nicer to climb it when it's dry!)

Cheers, Squib

Feb last summer. Isonomy - the equal right to bolt... but bolt responsibly.  Adam beat me to the first lead of this nice route, but we didn't get around to writing it up. Not as good as equipoise (which might be worth *** apparently), but quite a bit harder. Sorry I can't recall exactly the number of bolts - maybe 7 FH (sprayed to dull). We didn't bolt upper easier section as it has good natural and is shared by or at least next to the trad route Equipoise.

After consultation with a few tradsters, we felt it reasonable to add an anchor to be shared by MM, Equipoise, and Isonomy. These 3 routes now make a very nice trio. This anchor just gets you to lower DBB  at the starting ledge of all these climbs with a 60m rope.

Isonomy 30m 24**
Start: same point as Equipoise, the far R end of Black M ledge, but belay positioned instead on the subsidiary ledge below and east so the belayer can see the route and the ropes run clear of the arete.

Gear: can be done as sport, but best take a 3 camelot for the start and a 1 and 2 camelot for the top 6m.

Climb arete to ledge at 2m, then diagonally R for 3 m to reach shallow R facing corner, up this then hard face to rest below roof. Direct through roof crux and up to rest 3m above roof (last bolt). Up and slightly left on upper face top finish with Equipoise at DBB. 30m rap.

A. Donoghue and H. Jackson Feb 2014

Topo also shows new route Hormesis 40m 20*  H J and A D (Lower from CP slings) ...What doesn't kill you makes you stronger, and maybe even live longer!

Just got back from Flinders Island and boy oh boy did we get up to some climbing mischief! We installed an anchor above Big Wide Dyke at the Docks which allows 2 raps to the ground from those strange giant anchors near tits. We also installed anchors on Killiecrankie directly above the soaks that will give you a 60 metre rap to the ground or two 30 metre raps via the anchor of Park and Soak. We hauled a petrol drill up to Ball Rock and put in a rap station at the top of Ball Rock over Acrctic Zephyr which allows two 30 metre raps to the ground.  Sam Edwards Into the Labyrinth was repeated and the quality of the climb confirmed. For those people who are not yet aware: Flinders Island holds, by far, the largest potential for new routes (trad and sport) in Tasmania if not the entire country. In a two week trip in which we had 5 days of rain, here are just the climbs in which I was on the FFA team:

★★ Big Wide Dyke 25M 27

The Docks, Flinders Island. 10 M left of BOOB is a broken slanting wide crack that leads to a short overhang. Turn this with difficulty to a vague rest on R and then climb the crystally seam that takes stonker gear. Step left at the top and grab the jug rail at the top of the cliff (crux). The big cracks take plenty of gear up to 4 and 5 camalots but surprisingly require no OW technique. The higher seam takes small cams and medium to small wires. DBB.

FFA John Fischer, Simon Bischoff, Alex Hartshorne  6th December 2014

★★★ Park and Soak 30m 26

Just left of the soaks at Killiecrankie main face there is a bolt about 13 metres up. Start up the easy face under the bolt and trending left with good gear until the overhangs are reached. Move up and right to a bomber big cam placement (#4 camalot). Committing moves to an amazing undercling let you clip the bolt. The bolt protected crux is a crazy sequence R into the corner then up and back left to a massive jug. Tricky corner (22) up to a big hueco filled cave to a roof. Turn the roof using the giant ear of rock at about grade 22. DBB immediately after roof. The next pitch is a 25 metre 14 that will be popular for people looking for another moderate pitch before rapping to the ground.

FFA John Fischer, Alex Hartshorne 9th December 2014

★★★ Toblerone 18m 20

Summits the amazing candy shaped chunk of granite that stands out on the Killiecrankie skyline. ~15 minutes walk from the end of 4wd track at the docks. Can be viewed briefly from the last clearing on the track. The best way to get there is up the cairned drainage gully (the third one along the track). Follow this easily up to a wombat hole and another cairn then bash for about 5 metres to another clearing and head directly to the base of Bounty. Climb Bounty to access or scramble around left (but who would?) Ascends the left arete and face via excellent friction climbing to gain the one foot wide ridge at the top. Amazing. 4 bolts and DBB.

FFA Anna-Veronique L'hoest, Alex Hartshorne 11th December 2014.

★ Bounty 15m 19

Fun route by itself but really a warm up for Toblerone. Dark friction slab below the pyramid of granite candy. 4 bolts. You can belay easily from the giant she oak.

FFA Anna-Veronique L'hoest, Alex Hartshorne 11th December 2014.

★★★ Arctic Zephyr 30m 24

Tasmania's version of the Enduro Corner of Astroman except AZ is harder and better. Purple camalots the entire length plus a couple sneaky .75 placements. Layback to glory up immaculate granite (looked dirty but needed almost no cleaning). The top crack of the roof is a bit slimy but if you go that far up you are doing it wrong! Tricky chimney sequence and insane exposure at the roof leads to an equally unlikely series of holds and a newly installed DBB. One of the best pitches of granite crack climbing in Tasmania/Australia.

FFA John Fischer 15th December 2015. First aided by Wayne Maher and Iain Sedgman at M4 over several days 1983/1984. (They must not have had any friends.)

In addition to this, Simon B. put up some good lines(no doubt they will soon be detailed) and Tommy K. has so far put up around 30 boulder problems. Ben F. and Joel M. were last seen with a wire brush and petrol drill over at Ball Rock. One thing we bolted is a massive overhung boulder by the sea with a probable grade 30 sport climb that has so far resisted efforts at freeing it. The hunt continues...

Sounds like a great trip CJ. K has such remarkable nat gear! It's great to hear of the new gen doing great quality harder stuff that fits naturally with the style of the cliff. I'll try and rpt some over the next week or two.

The Organ Pipes, Flange Butttress.

Who'd have thought Flange still held routes of this quality!?

I have just returned to complete a great line  started back in the 90s - The Cuts... next to Big Sticks and Beatings. This version adds 10m arete to start (ground up trad) and 20m arete to finish (2 BR). My mates at New Town High called the cane 'the cuts': 'Please sir, not the cuts!' It is now a mega pitch - remarkably engaging all the way, exposed and requiring double sets of small cams and about ~14 draws of varying length. Best climbed on double ropes, but not essential. All ascended ground up apart from pre-inspection of last 15m where bolts were placed. Topo to follow.

The Cuts (the directors cut). 55m 21/22 ***

Start: 3m right of BSAB. Ascent pedestal then up to small roof then reach up/around R to jug and adjacent micro cam. Continue up flakes R of the arete  - well protected and steep, until angle eases and a shallow corner is reached (18m). Ascend the shallow corner R of arete, with increasing difficulty and commitment, to ledge at 35m (adjacent digitalis). Step back onto the arete and ascend (21/22) past 2 FH to anchors (Holy Road). 50m abseil.

H Jackson and Ben Maddison 18/12/14

OK i think everything that was put on this page is now in the guide, if i've missed anything let me know.

Only stuff i haven't added is the Flinders stuff. A bunch of us are going over in Feb and i will work on fixing up the Flinders guide then.

Hey Jed - I'll put this Flinders info here as a trip report from late 2014 and FYI especially as you are about to head there.

Re: flinders: awesome place, my trip hampered a bit by weather. crayfish were distracting also. quite a remarkable amount of potential there for hard new routes trad and bolted - as CJ noted. Many excellent existing climbs of course but getting off the cliff can be a bit of pain especially as the guide has no details in this regard. The guide needs extensive reworking actually , I'll send some suggestions  - but to whom - you or Gerry?  For example there are actually many good abseil bollards, but finding them atop any given climb can be difficult and some directions wouldn't hurt. Walking off can be a nightmare, and I suspect many first ascents involved nasty walk-offs of this kind. I think some more anchors would be good - I added one set (see below). The stars given in Climb North Tas are completely random as new climbers have used the star system where the old guys didn't.

I started a few bolted projects there that I didn't get done due to weather and plan to return in April (can be open pojects if I haven't done them by say august); I couldn't even add red tags to the bolts, or test the glue ins for that matter.  It was all a bit frustrating as the weater on the last 2 1/2 days (out of 6 1/2) was all bad, worse than expected. rain one day, but the wind the next day was ridiculous: the ropes sitting vertically upwards in the updraft made my attempts at adding the rest of the bolts to projects impossible, let alone climb them.

Would love to finish these myself and I'm sure you will find lots of other stuff to do!! The face then crack line left of pain toy (Lalla Rooke, 2 bolts and natural - is a very good climb ~22, not  completed yet. Left a wire in this my mistake too by the way). The arete right of pain toy 'The Spirit Level'- is extremely good ~25, will probably be 2 pitchs - have put in some bolts, but needs more (on top of natural I plan to use). The speki rising traverse along the massive horizontal right of pain toy "Flight of the Moon bird ~19" I did back in 1995 but I didn't write it up as it was a dead end ... it is now  facilitated by bolts on Spirit Level (hanging belay +- lower off); but this climb still needs a second pitch traversing left to complete it, so I'll write it up properly in Autumn. 

I also added a much needed rap anchor above Pain Toy, but didn't get to add shackles unfortunately - bought stainless maillons at roberts at whitemark, but again weather stopped play. I would be open to guidance from others re: anchors above exisitng climbs - if people were happy. Not envisaging anything excessive, just one set per buttress sort of thing. I also carried a small wood saw which I highly recommend. The ol guys maintained tracks which have now been interupted by fallen trees, growth etc.   

repeated Toblerone - it maybe 21 as quite sustained, and I'd give ** as I didn't really love the crystal pulling aspect when the rest of the rock at flinders is so exceptional, but that may be my personal bias. CJs bolted boulder near camp looked very funky. Would be interested to hear from Tommy re: bouldering. Adam D tells me he did a hard little thin seam a couple fo years back -  just where the track first hits the cliff. 26 I believe, and enters brain ledge to finish. all natural. will chase up  a name and better description.
 

Have a great time Jed and co.

H and S

Kim and Claire did this last year but didn't get around to writing it up. A companion route to Euphrasia on the Pipes, just N of Circus Wall.

Diemenica       45m  18

The wall R of Euphrasia split by a hidden crack.

Start as for Euphrasia.

 1. 45m. Climb the corner for a few metres and the crack in the L wall to a ledge R of Euphrasia, joining it for the last 10m.

K.Robinson, C.Hewer, Jan. 2014 

Thanks Phil, i've added to the guide, can you check that it looks correct? Done as 1 pitch or 2 like Euphrasia?

www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Central+Buttress

Hamish. just to clear up. Did you Climb the thin crack outlined with red? I thought you said you did the other night and was surprised when you said it was only 22! Seems to be a misunderstanding!

Reclimbed V on Kacktus Buttress today after the hold broke last year, probably 26ish, could be 27? Still classic though! Good to see what some others think.

James

i did it a month(??) ago and thought about 26 (easy if your tall, slightly trickier if short) but in that range. It's well worth a look! Still awaiting the obvious continuation up pugnacious instead of bailing out left to anchor which will create a classic long pitch!!