Skip to end of metadata
Go to start of metadata




Euphrasia                              45m     18                                            Upper Pooch Gully

A  pleasant route following various short steep cracks on the nose of the buttress immediately south of upper Flange Buttress, approx. 15m R of Circus Wall.

Abseil (50m rope) into the depths of Pooch Gully using the U bolts on the sloping boulder at the top of Flange Buttress (GPS MTW170).

(1)   30m (17)          Climb the corner for a few metres until one can hand traverse L onto a ledge on the arête. Follow the arête past a number of widish cracks using mantel shelves and layaways rather than jams. Finish with an awkward exit, taking care not to touch the block at the top. Belay on a large ledge.

(2)   15m (18)          Climb past two shelves and follow the steep, widening crack system to the top. Keep out of the V chimney by bridging and using a layaway on the R wall.

Phil and Kim Robinson                                11-01-14


  • No labels


  1. Nice one Phil, renamed you post to be the 2014 new routes thread, seeing as you got the first one!

  2. We finished the top two pitches of Heat today, making for the longest sport route on the Pipes:


    ★★ 44. Heat 103m 21 Þ
    An interesting sport climb that takes a series of distinct buttresses separated by ledges all the way to the top. Start down to the R of Acid Test on the next buttress, at the lowest point.
    1. 18m 21 Up the face fairly easily until interrupted by the crux between the 3rd and 5th bolts. Continue up to a large ledge and DBB. 7 bolts.
    2. 28m 21 Step R from the belay into the black streak. Great climbing up that until the streak runs out, then head to the left hand side of the pillar to a ledge and climb the arete above to finish at a DBB. 11 bolts.
    3. 32m 20 Climb the arete straight up from the belay for 20m past 7 bolts to a large ledge, where you can see the Acid Test DBB on the wall to the L. And now for an intermission - continue up Acid Test for 12m, heading right and aiming for the bottom of the right hand arete of the large buttress above, where you will find a DBB. Take a few slings or medium sized pieces for this section, which is easy but not bolted. Be careful lowering or abseiling this pitch with a 60m rope as you can only just get down with rope stretch.
    4. 25m 21 Straight up the steep and sustained arete, 10 bolts to DBB. Rap down in either 2 or 4 abseils.
    D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Mar 2013 & Jan 2014.

    1. This route climbs really well. Very worthy addition.

  3. Hey all, Lorien and I did what seems to be a new route on the arete immediately right of indian summer on bulging buttress, below the rap chains at the end of P1 cracked pepper. climbing is about 17/18 on good edges and jugs but may feel more like 19 with the small gear and the spice of a 5/6m run out above said small but good gear. The climb takes doubles of mid sized micro cams and a good hand slot after the run out. Good fun and deserving of a star

    Just checking if this has been done yet before we write it up

    *Spice Trade 25m 19

    Starts from the left hand end of Cracked Pepper "ledge" or step right as an alternative 2nd pitch to Indian Summer. Climb the lovely little arete from the shrubbery placing small cams where the opportunities arise. From the rooflet there's some healthy spice, protected by a micro cam on the right, to larger holds and eventually a mid sized break to soothe the spice. Double up on small cams/micro cams. Rap anchors for CP at top. Lorien Martin and Tim Smith Feb 2014

    1. Don't think so . Top roped it a few weeks ago with Tony and Al, thought it was about 19 but didn't think the gear was good enough, good one.

    2. Darn it! Beaten to the punch. Good one.

      We thought it about 19,  worth doing as an alternative second pitch to Indian Summer - a bit short and contrived maybe  to be a climb in it's own right, particularly as it shares the top 3-4m with both Breaker Spur and Indian Summer. Did you start from IS ledge at beginning of pitch 2  or from the "ledge" at the start of Cracked Pepper -  easier from IS we thought, and a bit easier to arrange protection. 

    3. Has anyone repeated this, can confirm 1 star?

  4. Given that the arête is only about 18 - 20 metres long, perhaps this bit: "5/6m run out above (said) small (but good) gear" should be in the description and not just in the post … if it makes it in the guide as a separate/distinct climb. I've put the two bits in brackets because they are somewhat superfluous.

    BTW Tony, do you really want that apostrophe in your post? (tongue)

    1. yeah, second thoughts - I did it again today with Quinn (at least I tried to sandbag him up it) and let's just say that it is probably more of a variation than an outright route. Plus I misjudged the key piece of pro and it's really not that good, so probably a bit more like 6/7m runout. I doubt it's really worth a bolt but if someone felt the urge then go for it.

  5. From Garry at Fingal:

    ★★ Mr Potato 18m 25 Þ
    Your friend and mine. Starts up Peppa Pig but at the top of the corner head up and right past 3 BR.
    Garry Phillips Feb 2014.

  6. Organ pipes, Breaker spur area.

    Quick note to say that yes we will paint the anchors we placed R of Equipoise the other day (Adam and Hamish). I haven’t done the route in the quite style I’d like, but am posting this as I do recognise it is important not to place shiny bolts on this cliff, especially in the more obvious spots... and will think of a name soon.

    Also did another new route in that area a few weeks back

    Hormesis 50m 20 * 

    What doesn't kill you makes you stronger. Add a grade if you’re not used to loose rock and long run-outs (and take off 2 stars). Add a star if you’re training for the mountains! Airy and exposed. 

    Ascends the face right of Breakout, through some small roofs and open faces reaching a ledge on the left at 40m, then back right onto the face again to finish at larger ledge. Traverse easily left to fixed sling anchor atop CP to descend. 

    Will send in topo later on


  7. Did the last of our projects on the right side of Central Buttress:


    ★★ Wedgetail 28m 22 12Þ
    The orange arete to the left of Transfusion, flanked by greenery. Start 5m up to the R of Heat. Sustained climbing on edges and flakes to the top of the pillar.
    Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Mar 2014.


    This unfashionable corner of the pipes has turned into a good little area with 10 new pitches over the last 2 summers:

    Heat: 21, 21, 20, 21

    Wedgetail: 22

    Peregrine: 20, 23

    Remembrance: 20, 21

    V: 25

  8. Nice one mate, on a side note apparently someone has broken a crucial hold off V and its not longer 25. I can't confirm this though.

  9. Holy Moly! Just sent the best route of my life. At the Star Factory. Its all gear. All placed on lead on the redpoint. None of the bolts of any of the routes on this cliff were clipped for the ascent. I strongly suggest not clipping them for future ascents, although it would be a great climb to go up Hubris into the finish of Simply the Best. Many options with link ups on this cliff. The Star Factory is still cranking out some amazing routes!!!

    ***** Hubris 30m 29

    Start up the offwidth roof L of Simply the Best. Up the line to the higher of the two traversing cracks via some committing moves. Traverse R climbing past STB. Clipping the bolts on that route is a serious no-no. Continue to the flaring corner for the, dare I say it, DIABOLICAL crux sequence. Continue up the line. The climb finishes when you are standing on top of the cliff. You need a 5 friend and 4 camalot for the bottom offwidth. The rest of the route takes all sorts of gear. Double rack from green alien to #2 camalots with a bunch of slings or just use two ropes.

    John Fischer, April 03 2014




    1. Another project on the Boneyard at Bare Rock completed.

      Crack A Boner  20m. 24. *

      Stiff for the grade. An old project of Doug Fife's. The overhanging crack on the RHS of the Boneyard face in between 2 Fast 2 Furious and Tiger Bean. A brutal exercise in steep jamming which gets you pumped all the way to the anchors. Well protected. Gear: camalots yellow micro, purple, red x 2, and medium to large nuts. FA: Gerry Narkowicz 12th April, 2014

    2. CJ, Gerry. Re Hubris & Crack A Boner, i've added to the guide. Can you check description and topo look right?

  10. Below Battle Cruiser Ledge

    There are a couple of small faces directly below Battle Cruiser Ledge. To get to them walk along the track that goes between the Central and Great Tier tracks, until you are directly under the black corner of Battle Cruiser, then head up an old track to the faces. Alternatively rap off Battle Cruiser Ledge.

    23. Disability 12m 17
    The flakey face just left of Bad Back. There is OK gear in the vertical then horizontal cracks.
    Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Apr 2014.

    ★ 24. Bad Back 12m 18 5Þ
    The bolted face directly below Battle Cruiser. Climb either to the L or R of the bolts.
    Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Apr 2014.

  11. Hey guys, with the help of my outdoor ed teacher Mr. Narkowicz I've bolted and led my very first route at the Mersey Cliffs. I called it The Greatest View because the views at the cliffs are pretty great (smile)So basically I have no idea how to write this up so I'll just use the format of how the previous new routes have been written?

    The Greatest View 17m 20 8Þ

    Up the arete lined with bolts before the tomahawk buttress. Fun steep layback at the start and then great climbing on the top section.

    Isaac Lethborg, May 31st 2014


    1. Hey good on ya Isaac! Your already climbing harder than your teacher. That's not that hard to do, but still its a good effort. (wink)

    2. The Greatest View has been added to the guide, has anyone done this, confirm some stars?

      1. Hey Jed, not sure if it has been repeated yet but I think it is probably a 1 star climb. Just my opinion though so someone else should go out and do it  (wink)

        1. Thanks Isaac, i'll put it as 1 star (smile)

  12. A little bit late I realise (technical issues!), but on 4th June 2014, I managed to complete a trad crack project at the Star Factory, giving the crag another three star route:


    Augmentium  30m  30 ***


    Superb and safe climbing up the obvious crack line left of Simply The Best. Start as for the brilliant looking route Hubris, but instead of traversing right, continue straight up, with funky moves through the technical crux. Blast up the sustained crack above, then left of the bush and up the easy, pleasant corner to the top. 

    Ascent was done after multiple top-rope/self belay sessions. All gear was placed on the lead and that is what it is graded for. The gear ranges from black & blue Aliens to 4.5 Camelot and various wires. An ascent done in better style (ie ground up/on-sight etc) is totally possible as the gear is bomber.

    It's thoroughly enjoyable climbing, up a stunning line, on some of the best quality rock at the Factory – I heartily recommend it!

    Andrew (Squib) Cubbon

    1. Sick, i've added to the guide. Can you check description and topo look right?

  13. Roger did this new route on Flange Buttress uphill from Nefarious which is bound to be popular given the grade and location:

    ★★ 3. Princess 20m 19
    Pleasant face climbing on the wall right of Drama Queen. There is a crux getting up the first part of the headwall. 9 U's plus top anchors.
    R. Parkyn, J. Parkyn, Nov 2014.

    1. Climbed this yesterday, great addition to the pipes, nice to have something to warm up on before doing all the 22's in that area.

      I've edited the guide to show this as a sport route.

  14. Some new stuff out of Kempton Quoin. The best ones are still projects. Smash the Beetles gives relatively easy access to the top of the cliff for several buttresses on either side which havent been climbed on before for anyone keen on new routes.


    Smashed Wall
    Up and left again from Wedge Buttress is Smashed Wall, which at the right hand end has the smashed remains of quite a large tree which fell from the top of the cliff in 2014.

    4. Smash the Beetles 22m 20 8Þ
    The corner on the R end of the wall. Mostly pretty cruisey, except where you are forced to step into the corner, which is harder lower down. From the the anchor you can walk to the top of the adjacent buttresses.
    Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Sep 2014.

    Wedge Buttress
    From Right Stuff Buttress, next left is Wedge Buttress, which is about 45m high.

    5. Project 30m 13Þ
    Project - up the pillar on the far LHS of the buttress.

    6. Project 18m 9Þ
    Project - face starting off the right side of the ledge.

    ★ 7. Damage 28m 18 10Þ
    The line of FH up the face on the LHS of the foot of the buttress. Nice continuous climbing on good holds. Might get two stars with a bit of traffic to clean it up a bit more.
    Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Nov 2014.

    Vagabond Buttress

    ★★ 18. The Battle 12m 21 5Þ
    4m left of Vagabond is a corner system. Climb up to a rest on the pedestal, then step R and climb the face. A nice little route that needs extending to the top of the buttress.
    Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Sep 2014.

    1. Also on wedge buttress:

      ★★ 8. The Thin Edge of the Wedge  27m  20  
      The sinuous crack starting at the lowest point of the buttress. A steep start up the crack eases to nice and reasonable well protected face climbing, leading to a DBB. There could probably be a second pitch.
      Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Dec. 2014.

  15. Augmentium 30m 30*** downgrade - The Star Factory


    After chatting with the second ascentionist, we are in agreement that the route should be downgraded to 29. Regardless of the grade, it's still mega climbing, so get amongst it!!

    (It's pretty condition dependant, so if it's wet, you can give yourself the 30 tick! - but much nicer to climb it when it's dry!)

    Cheers, Squib

  16. Feb last summer. Isonomy - the equal right to bolt... but bolt responsibly.  Adam beat me to the first lead of this nice route, but we didn't get around to writing it up. Not as good as equipoise (which might be worth *** apparently), but quite a bit harder. Sorry I can't recall exactly the number of bolts - maybe 7 FH (sprayed to dull). We didn't bolt upper easier section as it has good natural and is shared by or at least next to the trad route Equipoise.

    After consultation with a few tradsters, we felt it reasonable to add an anchor to be shared by MM, Equipoise, and Isonomy. These 3 routes now make a very nice trio. This anchor just gets you to lower DBB  at the starting ledge of all these climbs with a 60m rope.

    Isonomy 30m 24**
    Start: same point as Equipoise, the far R end of Black M ledge, but belay positioned instead on the subsidiary ledge below and east so the belayer can see the route and the ropes run clear of the arete.

    Gear: can be done as sport, but best take a 3 camelot for the start and a 1 and 2 camelot for the top 6m.

    Climb arete to ledge at 2m, then diagonally R for 3 m to reach shallow R facing corner, up this then hard face to rest below roof. Direct through roof crux and up to rest 3m above roof (last bolt). Up and slightly left on upper face top finish with Equipoise at DBB. 30m rap.

    A. Donoghue and H. Jackson Feb 2014

    Topo also shows new route Hormesis 40m 20*  H J and A D (Lower from CP slings) ...What doesn't kill you makes you stronger, and maybe even live longer!





  17. Just got back from Flinders Island and boy oh boy did we get up to some climbing mischief! We installed an anchor above Big Wide Dyke at the Docks which allows 2 raps to the ground from those strange giant anchors near tits. We also installed anchors on Killiecrankie directly above the soaks that will give you a 60 metre rap to the ground or two 30 metre raps via the anchor of Park and Soak. We hauled a petrol drill up to Ball Rock and put in a rap station at the top of Ball Rock over Acrctic Zephyr which allows two 30 metre raps to the ground.  Sam Edwards Into the Labyrinth was repeated and the quality of the climb confirmed. For those people who are not yet aware: Flinders Island holds, by far, the largest potential for new routes (trad and sport) in Tasmania if not the entire country. In a two week trip in which we had 5 days of rain, here are just the climbs in which I was on the FFA team:

    ★★ Big Wide Dyke 25M 27

    The Docks, Flinders Island. 10 M left of BOOB is a broken slanting wide crack that leads to a short overhang. Turn this with difficulty to a vague rest on R and then climb the crystally seam that takes stonker gear. Step left at the top and grab the jug rail at the top of the cliff (crux). The big cracks take plenty of gear up to 4 and 5 camalots but surprisingly require no OW technique. The higher seam takes small cams and medium to small wires. DBB.

    FFA John Fischer, Simon Bischoff, Alex Hartshorne  6th December 2014


    Park and Soak 30m 26

    Just left of the soaks at Killiecrankie main face there is a bolt about 13 metres up. Start up the easy face under the bolt and trending left with good gear until the overhangs are reached. Move up and right to a bomber big cam placement (#4 camalot). Committing moves to an amazing undercling let you clip the bolt. The bolt protected crux is a crazy sequence R into the corner then up and back left to a massive jug. Tricky corner (22) up to a big hueco filled cave to a roof. Turn the roof using the giant ear of rock at about grade 22. DBB immediately after roof. The next pitch is a 25 metre 14 that will be popular for people looking for another moderate pitch before rapping to the ground.

    FFA John Fischer, Alex Hartshorne 9th December 2014


    ★ Toblerone 18m 20

    Summits the amazing candy shaped chunk of granite that stands out on the Killiecrankie skyline. ~15 minutes walk from the end of 4wd track at the docks. Can be viewed briefly from the last clearing on the track. The best way to get there is up the cairned drainage gully (the third one along the track). Follow this easily up to a wombat hole and another cairn then bash for about 5 metres to another clearing and head directly to the base of Bounty. Climb Bounty to access or scramble around left (but who would?) Ascends the left arete and face via excellent friction climbing to gain the one foot wide ridge at the top. Amazing. 4 bolts and DBB.

    FFA Anna-Veronique L'hoest, Alex Hartshorne 11th December 2014.

    Bounty 15m 19

    Fun route by itself but really a warm up for Toblerone. Dark friction slab below the pyramid of granite candy. 4 bolts. You can belay easily from the giant she oak.

    FFA Anna-Veronique L'hoest, Alex Hartshorne 11th December 2014.


    Arctic Zephyr 30m 24

    Tasmania's version of the Enduro Corner of Astroman except AZ is harder and better. Purple camalots the entire length plus a couple sneaky .75 placements. Layback to glory up immaculate granite (looked dirty but needed almost no cleaning). The top crack of the roof is a bit slimy but if you go that far up you are doing it wrong! Tricky chimney sequence and insane exposure at the roof leads to an equally unlikely series of holds and a newly installed DBB. One of the best pitches of granite crack climbing in Tasmania/Australia.

    FFA John Fischer 15th December 2015. First aided by Wayne Maher and Iain Sedgman at M4 over several days 1983/1984. (They must not have had any friends.)

    In addition to this, Simon B. put up some good lines(no doubt they will soon be detailed) and Tommy K. has so far put up around 30 boulder problems. Ben F. and Joel M. were last seen with a wire brush and petrol drill over at Ball Rock. One thing we bolted is a massive overhung boulder by the sea with a probable grade 30 sport climb that has so far resisted efforts at freeing it. The hunt continues...

    1. total crushanaut!


  18. Sounds like a great trip CJ. K has such remarkable nat gear! It's great to hear of the new gen doing great quality harder stuff that fits naturally with the style of the cliff. I'll try and rpt some over the next week or two.

  19. The Organ Pipes, Flange Butttress.

    Who'd have thought Flange still held routes of this quality!?

    I have just returned to complete a great line  started back in the 90s - The Cuts... next to Big Sticks and Beatings. This version adds 10m arete to start (ground up trad) and 20m arete to finish (2 BR). My mates at New Town High called the cane 'the cuts': 'Please sir, not the cuts!' It is now a mega pitch - remarkably engaging all the way, exposed and requiring double sets of small cams and about ~14 draws of varying length. Best climbed on double ropes, but not essential. All ascended ground up apart from pre-inspection of last 15m where bolts were placed. Topo to follow.

    The Cuts (the directors cut). 55m 21/22 ***

    Start: 3m right of BSAB. Ascent pedestal then up to small roof then reach up/around R to jug and adjacent micro cam. Continue up flakes R of the arete  - well protected and steep, until angle eases and a shallow corner is reached (18m). Ascend the shallow corner R of arete, with increasing difficulty and commitment, to ledge at 35m (adjacent digitalis). Step back onto the arete and ascend (21/22) past 2 FH to anchors (Holy Road). 50m abseil.

    H Jackson and Ben Maddison 18/12/14

    1. Nice one Hamish (smile) i climbed this on xmas day. was fun. I've added to the guide as 48m 2 star 21

  20. OK i think everything that was put on this page is now in the guide, if i've missed anything let me know.

    Only stuff i haven't added is the Flinders stuff. A bunch of us are going over in Feb and i will work on fixing up the Flinders guide then.

  21. Hey Jed - I'll put this Flinders info here as a trip report from late 2014 and FYI especially as you are about to head there.


    Re: flinders: awesome place, my trip hampered a bit by weather. crayfish were distracting also. quite a remarkable amount of potential there for hard new routes trad and bolted - as CJ noted. Many excellent existing climbs of course but getting off the cliff can be a bit of pain especially as the guide has no details in this regard. The guide needs extensive reworking actually , I'll send some suggestions  - but to whom - you or Gerry?  For example there are actually many good abseil bollards, but finding them atop any given climb can be difficult and some directions wouldn't hurt. Walking off can be a nightmare, and I suspect many first ascents involved nasty walk-offs of this kind. I think some more anchors would be good - I added one set (see below). The stars given in Climb North Tas are completely random as new climbers have used the star system where the old guys didn't.


    I started a few bolted projects there that I didn't get done due to weather and plan to return in April (can be open pojects if I haven't done them by say august); I couldn't even add red tags to the bolts, or test the glue ins for that matter.  It was all a bit frustrating as the weater on the last 2 1/2 days (out of 6 1/2) was all bad, worse than expected. rain one day, but the wind the next day was ridiculous: the ropes sitting vertically upwards in the updraft made my attempts at adding the rest of the bolts to projects impossible, let alone climb them.

    Would love to finish these myself and I'm sure you will find lots of other stuff to do!! The face then crack line left of pain toy (Lalla Rooke, 2 bolts and natural - is a very good climb ~22, not  completed yet. Left a wire in this my mistake too by the way). The arete right of pain toy 'The Spirit Level'- is extremely good ~25, will probably be 2 pitchs - have put in some bolts, but needs more (on top of natural I plan to use). The speki rising traverse along the massive horizontal right of pain toy "Flight of the Moon bird ~19" I did back in 1995 but I didn't write it up as it was a dead end ... it is now  facilitated by bolts on Spirit Level (hanging belay +- lower off); but this climb still needs a second pitch traversing left to complete it, so I'll write it up properly in Autumn. 

    I also added a much needed rap anchor above Pain Toy, but didn't get to add shackles unfortunately - bought stainless maillons at roberts at whitemark, but again weather stopped play. I would be open to guidance from others re: anchors above exisitng climbs - if people were happy. Not envisaging anything excessive, just one set per buttress sort of thing. I also carried a small wood saw which I highly recommend. The ol guys maintained tracks which have now been interupted by fallen trees, growth etc.   

    repeated Toblerone - it maybe 21 as quite sustained, and I'd give ** as I didn't really love the crystal pulling aspect when the rest of the rock at flinders is so exceptional, but that may be my personal bias. CJs bolted boulder near camp looked very funky. Would be interested to hear from Tommy re: bouldering. Adam D tells me he did a hard little thin seam a couple fo years back -  just where the track first hits the cliff. 26 I believe, and enters brain ledge to finish. all natural. will chase up  a name and better description.

    Have a great time Jed and co.

    H and S

    1. its quite possible to walk off either end of cliff... just takes a while.

       i can maybe gps some anchors or trail walk offs in feb....



    2. Thanks Hamish! Sounds like a productive trip. We didnt cop nearly that bad of weather in December. Maybe we were lucky?? We will take a wire brush to Toblerone. Someone had taken mine from camp the day we went out to bolt it. (sad)

      Alot of rap stations will be going in on the next trip(February for those who don't know). One a buttress.

      About Flight of the Moon Bird. So it has a 2nd pitch that is yet to be done but will be written up in Autumn? I don't follow. Are you going back to climb this soon or dont have time to write it up this summer? I just want to be sure of things you are tagging as "don't climb. Im coming back". Pictures or topos would be handy. I seem to remember, not that long ago, quite a ruckus about previously unknown climbs being retroed etc. at the Paradiso.  I would be glad to chat about it. john at


      1. Hi ya CJ,

        yeah there a 3 routes I have put bolts in plus an anchor at the top and using a silly petrol drill in very high winds it took quite a lot of effort - so I would much appreciate if they could be left alone until I return in April.... they are all projects. I have inscribed them onto my guidebook topo and photographed that (with thanks to Gerry Narkowicz). see attachement plus legend below....

        Legend for topo

        Old climbs: 57 Skye. 58 Pain Toy. 60 Rock and Roll.

        Hamish Projects (new):

        57a Thin crack 3-4m left of Pain toy. 2 BR.Project "Lalla Rooke"

        58A and B. Arete right of pain toy, 3 BR so far, needs more, plus has some natural.  it will end at same point as pain toy (anchors installed), possibly will be split as 2 pitches. and has two alternate starts either side of arete (see BR left of arete near start). Projects. "The Spirit Level"

        58c Traverses the massive rising diagonal (right to left) out of Rock and Roll. Pitch 1 to arete (done in 1995 by me, but back climbed as descent). Pitch 2 Project goes around arete via BR and onto finish on Skye ledge (scramble off). Project "Flight of the Moon bird"



        1. ... Any queries let me know, but hopefully that helps. As I said, the weather turned against us for a few days last time, but if I can't get them finished next trip due to inability, age, psychologicol deterioration or other subjective issues then I plan to open them up to anyone!

          There are, as you know, so many harder lines to do there it is quite remarkable! Wish you the best for another great trip. Anchors serving a few buttresses would be most useful, with thanks.


          1. Thanks alot for sorting that out. Yes there are many many routes to climb there and it is easy enough to respect your projects. It would have been a shame to accidentally climb one of your lines or to have NOT climbed a route mistakenly thinking it was a project. And of course, you are not being a cliff hog at all mate. As you said, there are soooo many harder climbs (and easier bolted ones) to do. What absolutely blows my mind is that there are mini Flinders Islands with the same granite features(or bigger!) all the way up the furneaux group. 50 km off Wilsons Prom is a little island with a gigantic cave 100 metres high with who knows how many routes in it... Climbing forever.

    3. Found my route info. On the thin crack i did

      Spinal Tap 18m 26 **
      Where the track from camp meets the cliff below the brain feature there is an obvious thin crack line that leads up to the brain. Bouldery moves with good gear though it's strenuous to place it.  FA Adam Donoghue 12/08

  22. Phil Robinson AUTHOR

    Kim and Claire did this last year but didn't get around to writing it up. A companion route to Euphrasia on the Pipes, just N of Circus Wall.

    Diemenica       45m  18

    The wall R of Euphrasia split by a hidden crack.

    Start as for Euphrasia.

     1. 45m. Climb the corner for a few metres and the crack in the L wall to a ledge R of Euphrasia, joining it for the last 10m.

    K.Robinson, C.Hewer, Jan. 2014 

  23. Thanks Phil, i've added to the guide, can you check that it looks correct? Done as 1 pitch or 2 like Euphrasia?

    1. Phil Robinson AUTHOR

      Thanks Jed, that looks good and yes, one pitch.

  24. Hamish. just to clear up. Did you Climb the thin crack outlined with red? I thought you said you did the other night and was surprised when you said it was only 22! Seems to be a misunderstanding!


    1. Hey Simon,

      yes it does seem to be a misunderstanding and that's good news isn't it! we had different projects and I don't have to feel so much like a cliff hog! Lalla R 57a may be a bit harder than 22 actually, but it is not your red crack, it starts on the same slab as PT and even up the same ramp feature that gets u started on PT, and continues up the ramp for another 2-3 M b4 heading up a short steep face/scoop to reach a thin crack - starts as barely fingers, gets to off hand by the 20m mark.

      Wish you well with your red crack! I did notice the line of course - looks great, ...but had been drawn especially to PT area by my unfinished business there from 1995.


  25. Reclimbed V on Kacktus Buttress today after the hold broke last year, probably 26ish, could be 27? Still classic though! Good to see what some others think.


    1. Nice one James, I've checked the guide looks like Jon has updated it with those details, was 25 now 26 could be 27

  26. i did it a month(??) ago and thought about 26 (easy if your tall, slightly trickier if short) but in that range. It's well worth a look! Still awaiting the obvious continuation up pugnacious instead of bailing out left to anchor which will create a classic long pitch!!

    1. Cool, does this sound right then?

      A fun little sport climb starting 5m R of Remembrance and climbing to the same anchor. Climb up and into shallow R facing corner, continue up to steep bulge. Jugs lead to good side-pulls on the face above. Head up and R before stepping back L to lower-off. Was originally 25, now 26 since a hold broke off. Slightly trickier if you are short.

      1. Yep, sounds about right. Did it first go so don't really have any idea how hard it is, just a best guess. Yeah Simon, the direct ending would be a great addition, might be a bit interesting on the headwall! Climbs super well nonetheless, nice work!

        1. interesting .
          unless another hold fell off we thought it was no change in grade!