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Mt Murchisnon, West Coast

I will soon add a little thesarvo guide entry for this mountain, which will include an access topo and some other routes from past epochs.

 

 

E Lucevan Le Stele.

This is the large north-facing buttress inside the Mt Murchison Crater. Access: follow Mt M summit track then descend to small hanging lake inside the crater, 300m altitude below summit trig. Descent via walk off down wide gully 50m east of Acrasia; OR abseil from bollard into narrow gully 25m east of Acrasia (one 50m abseil into gully, then another 50m abseil down steep gully).

 

Acrasia (aka ‘Original Route’) 130m Grade 18 **

Takes the walls and roofs 50m left of Lost Arrow corner.

Rack: standard traditional rack.

Start: The narrow arête on the far left side of ELLS buttress.

  1. 40m 17. Climb up on arête for 5m then transition to the left wall and up this for 15m following left leaning crack line until it finishes at right leading horizontal weakness. Traverse right back to arête (crux), then up through small overhangs right of arête to belay on ledge among overhangs.
  2. 45m 18. Up corner systems leading towards large blank roof, but tend diagonally left 5m prior to roof heading to weakness where roof is only 0.5m wide (4m run-out). Gear at roof, through this (crux) then up wall to large ledge (possible belay). Off ledge up 3m crack to small roof, but traverse left 3m to avoid it.  Up steep wall above (on intermittent cracks, 5m left of large unattractive corner), until a move right into upper section of large corner is possible. Up this 5m to large ledge below overhangs.
  3. 40m 16. Up right of overhangs then on to top.

 

Hamish Jackson and Shumita Joseph Feb 2016

 

Lost Arrow 200m grade 25 ***

This climb was established ground up in one 11 hour push.

Climbs the large, over hanging diagonal corner that splits the prow of the E Lucevan Le Stele. Overhangs about 20m over the first 100m of climbing. Generally excellent rock that accepts good protection.

Rack: generous traditional rack to #3 Camelot size, including 5-10 small cams and 15 extendable draws. Double ropes essential.

Start: approx. 50m right of Acrasia below the weakness through overhang 15m above.

  1. 30m 24 Steep and sustained, a tad intimidating. Up wall then through 4m roof via right leading horizontal flake. Up and left of hanging block (could not be budged), then right along ledge to belay.
  2. 20m 22. Up overhanging corner with increasing difficulty (+ damp after rain on FA), then exit left along large diagonal. Belay at base of major corner.
  3. 25m 20. Up steep corner and cracks, then left along easy diagonal to belay 5m under next hanging corner.
  4. 40m 25 Extremely exposed and very difficult. Up wall (2m wet patch on FA) to small roof, then through this with difficulty tending left. (Small cams may allow aid though this crux 22 A2?). Continue steeply to upper corner above quartzite band, to find the unlikely traverse across overhanging wall to right arête, and then up easily to large ledge.
  5. 25m 22. Exposed and technical conglomerate wall climbing. Head up short wall then traverse right 2m to base of corner, then up corner strenuously. As corner ends, follow a faint weakness up and left to gain a thin diagonal crack that leads back right to another large ledge. Phew.
  6. 45m. Up easier slab left of arête.

Adam Donoghue and Hamish Jackson (var). 22/1/17

 

 

 

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32 Comments

  1. Adam high on the 5th pitch (22).

     

  2. Hamish leading the first pitch (24)

     

  3. Acrasia (Original Route)

     

    Mt Murchison access to E Lucevan Le Stele and surrounds.

    Follow Mt M summit track (Main Track) then descend to small hanging lake inside the crater, 300m altitude below summit trig (see topo in for descent options, 1 is easier to find, 2 is easier walking).

  4. wow that looks epic, nice work!!!

  5. Thats a sick bit of rock, and a bold effort to launch up that ground up

    Hamish Jackson I've moved the existing Mt Murchison notes and photos, and these topos and route descriptions to a new page to be edited: Mount Murchison

  6. Good stuff. Can you mark the Mt Murchison summit on the map for newcomers to the area.

  7. Looks great! But someone please name a new route "Murchison's Eye"!

  8. I have now edited the Mt M guide further, thanks for suggestions.

  9. Lost World. Mt Welllington.

    ** 'Hejira variant' to Savage Journey. 28m grade 23

    Climb first half of SJ (grade 19 hand crack to this point), until a jug and BR be spied on the left face. Swing onto jug then clip BR, breathe deep then take the steep, sustained face and thin cracks above (well protected: wires and small cams).

    FA H Jackson, S Joseph, T Smith, A Donaghue 2015

    I finally got around to leading this ground up style the other day, after an earlier ascent, hence the delayed write up. I suspect many may find this variant easier than the original!! I have placed the bolt well left of SJ to avoid changing the character of that route. The direct start to Hejra is a good line - feels about grade 28 for 10m, but then is very thin (maybe 30 plus??) for 5m.

    1. Sounds good, look forward to getting on it. I've added this one to the guide.

  10. Cathedral Rock, Hobart.

    No recorded trad climbs here but people must have  had a bash in the past? We climbed a two pitch trady number today. The route is located below Bells Buttress. We made two raps from the bolted anchors above and below the established sport climbs. The second rap is about 55m and lands on a sloping ledge.

     

    No Fucking Sardines In The Pesto 19 60m

    A route in honour of our mate Alessandro Conti. Rest in power. Route starts at the sloping ledge directly below bells butress rap station.

    1. 45m 19, Surmount the large detached block below the off width crack. Up crack and face for  around 15m untill a bold traverse is made out to the arete on the left (no gear and friable holds). Follow the thin cracks and arete upwards via the "rodeo" block to the large platform.

    2.15m 18, Up the thin cracks and flakey laybacks to the bolted anchor. A few dicky side steps are involved here. Get to the top of the buttress via one of the sporty numbers above.

    M. Lopez, Y.C. Foong & T. Gallagher. Jan 2017

    1. Sounds adventurous... I've updated the guide with this one.

  11. Cathedral rock, Rocky Cape

     

    Roughly 10 routes done between 2015 - 2017, possibly still a few easy lines left to do. Just under an hours walk from the carpark (very pleasant walking). It's a pretty small crag but it's a stunning place to be. The pick of the bunch is Rorogwela, grade 23 on gear, but for climbers climbing lower grades it can be a nice place to spend an afternoon/day. See guide to rocky cape.

  12. A couple of new lines on

    Lower Great Tier

    Eddie                   24m      16                     

    Worthwhile. An unlikely and varied excursion, keeping on the arête (R of Zephyr) the whole way. Start 2 m R of Zephyr and left of the steep gully.

    Climb the bulging wall and follow the arête passing to the left of a small roof, move back right, continue up the nose and mantelshelf onto a ledge. Up the clean arête keeping well away from the gully. At the top, scramble 4m to belay at two stout tea trees. Descend via the ramp.

    P. Robinson, C. (Basil) Rathbone, Jan. 2017.


    the Eagle        22m      18

    The wall and arête right of Procrastination, just left of Kabling, gives an enjoyable steep climb: start midway between the two.

    Boulder the thin face, then climb the shallow corner and finger cracks directly up to the hakea bush. Climb the overhanging arête, moving right on to the Kabling Wall near the top. DBB. Rap or lower off from here (20m).

    O.Gervasoni, P.Robinson (Feb.2017)

    See:-      Eddie (9 Feb. 2017).jpg

  13. Line to right of Kabling, Lower Great Tier.

    Master Class    20m    18

    A fitting companion route to Kabling.

    Start a metre right of Kabling. Climb up and over to large block and take a direct line up the steep wall past 2 bolts and straight on up through the roof to the hakea bush. Step left and finish up right-hand edge of the wall to the Kabling DBB. Rap or lower off from here (20m).

    T. McKenny and B. Bull, O. Gervasoni, Feb 2017.


  14.  

     

     

    not shore if its a new route or not,

    Drag ya cousin up. 20m grade 13

    up the fault directly above northern group track. Follow the fault then traverse right to fixture on the airete then up to ledge. This could be the first of 2pitches but we decided to bale from there. Good if your bringing up a Newby.

     

     

     

     

     

  15. Harlequin buttress.

    Beaman's Route "The New" Direct 24 ~ 7m of new climbing. Great! - Gets rid of the aid without a heinous nail pulling move, has some funky moves, and puts two stars back on the direct!

    3m left of original direct: Climb up left facing corner for 5m. Funky moves right to gain face then ledge. Up 'old' direct. 

    H Jackson Feb 2017. Was done very safely using double ropes + boomer natural gear in corner - but would be better if I added a U-bolt  as currently the right rope through original u bolt gets in the way of the dead point unless right rope is slack. I didn't have any u-bolts with me!

     

  16. Coles Bay, The Quadrangle (Cape T).

    ★★★ 40.

     Truency12m25  
     
    The story: Originally written up as a head point project, the FTR ascensionist (me) proved a real truent (13 years). An unknown climber (likely mainlander given ring bolts) meanwhile comes by, ignores the request for a bolt free ascent, and bolts the line, but doesn't glue to last ring bolts and doesn't record an ascent or project status (no tag). They too lapse into truency for some years. An access bolt had been placed and the rope on this seemed ancient so it must have been some time back when the bolts were placed.  I was quite surprised to find all this when I returned to complete the project. The 'green point' looked pretty wild I must admit, although doable, and so I used the bolts.
     
    The right leading diagnonal line across the back face of the quadrangle (ie faces east). A unique climb: amazing moves through lay aways and finger pockets. All go from the first move to the crux reaching the top of the wall. Grade to be confirmed. 5 bolts, plus single bolt lower off until ring bolts glued in.
     Hamish Jackson 29 Apr 2003 (top-rope). FLA Hamish Feb 2017
  17. Another route on Lower Great Tier

    *The Trump Tower      22m         20    7Þ ↓

     Climbs the arête and tower right of Elementary Jam. Scramble up the blocks at the bottom then follow arête past bolts straight up to top. Like the other Trump Towers all the action and grief is at the very top. DBB: rap off bolts on the wall behind the finish (24m).

    FA:  B. Bull and T. McKenny, B. Maddison, S. Scott, Valentines Day, Feb 2017.


     

     

  18. New route at the Acropolis. The grading/stars at this place are a bit weird. Astroboy should be a 3 star 22. Not sure why it lost a star. It may be a smidge dirty but is one of the coolest unique dolerite cracks in Tassie. Anna repeated Blackmans country and we  thought it was 23 not 25. As a single pitch BMC is a ** route. It's short and cruxy. Also for those who are not aware, about half of the cliff is mossy ledgey chimneys so I am not sure why any of the existing multipitches would be given 3 stars. Rapping in and climbing the top pitches is probably the best option for getting the most quality climbing as you walk to the top of the cliff first anyway. For example,  the 50 metre grade 21 pitch at the top of Take Me To The River is *** and is easily reached by rappel but the rest of the route is a bit wandery and dirty.  I worked the crack left of Astroboy that Merry and Alex got on last year and it will be 27/28 with stonker gear all the way up and is the best dolerite crack I have been on. Of course it is an open project. I also partially cleaned the super thin crack immediately left of TGOE and it will go at 30+. When all of the top pitches at the acropolis are climbed it will have one of the highest concentration of quality cracks(+ one sport pitch) from grade 10 to 30 in the state. Maybe 25 routes from 20 to 50 metres long.

    ***Acropalyptic  28m 26

    Open book corner left of  Acropolis Now. Committing, bouldery and technical first half. Sustained layback and jamming second half. Triple green to red alien and doubles to 3 camalot. 

    FA: J. Fischer, March 1 2017. 

     

    1. The grades and stars are pretty much as per Chris Baxter's guide from the mid 1980's - feel free to edit

    2. Yeah, I looked at the line of Acropalyptic a couple of years ago - good effort John.  I agree with your overall assessment of the crag and grading as well. Rapping in is the way to go. The rock on these top pitches is absolutely brilliant, and the crag gets ledgy and mossy the further down you go. Plus its is just an inspiring place to hang out. Made me keen to get back up there. 

       

      1. Hey I went back to Acropolis and sent that route I was working. I also climbed Farside and it was really good. I said the "best" crack but meant one of the best. These routes really are 3 stars. Too bad they arent on the columns of mt wellington. But as Ben says, at least the Acropolis is an inspiring place to hang out. Geerad from NZ put up a stunning 23 crack which he will write up soon I am sure.

        ***Isle of Rock 30m 26 The corner left of astroboy. Start from the same ledge as that route. The climbing gets increasingly difficult leading to the crux moves to gain the ledge. Excellent wires all the way up. Take a single rack of cams from green alien to 2 camalot but I used almost only bomber wires. 

        FA Merry Schimanski and Alex Hartshorne March 2016 FFA CJ. Fischer March 12, 2017.

        1. rad, top job.  Another cool route in the wilderness.

        2. Well done, it makes one want to go back, there are climbs for all. Brilliant.I remember being pumped dizzy on a last pitch on the Acropolis N face years ago, and (apart the March Files on a hot day) what a place to climb! On another occasion half way up the Plenipotentiary a wedge tail eagle came across to check us out, 20-30m away in mid-air, motionless like a museum piece apart from the eyes, then a minute later a kilometre or so away over to Mt Gould. 

          1. Blind Corner 23 (at least), 33m at the Acropolis North Wall Top Tier

            Five or six cracks to the climber's left of the existing lines, with three big boulders near the topout. 

            It's a really really pumpy steep hand crack corner, the right wall overhangs 3m, and it is almost rest-less until you desperately escape right at 28m to some ledges. I used double camalots .4-4, a third #1 and some very large nuts; more .75s to 2s would have been nice. 

             

            The name comes from a heinous case of lichen-to-the-eye I got cleaning the climb. Photos are by, in order, Sana Zulic, and Sinisa Vujic; a Serbian couple who happened to be passing by after abandoning the Acropolis original route because of new routers bombarding them with rocks.

        3. John working on Isle of Rock 

        4. Nice work guys!!! I've added these to the guide.

          Don't suppose you have any drone footage that could be used for a topo photo, oh that's right you still need to find the drone...

  19. On the left side of University Buttress :

    ★ 1. Mountain Rocket 25m 22 12Þ
    Takes the sustained face left of Two Angry Young Men. At about two-thirds height you are forced right to a steep bulge to gain the arete, before heading back left to finish.
    Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Mar. 2017.

    1. Great title, Jon. Haven't been wandering around the mountain for a while but saw some Mountain Rocket out the other day at Hartz. Such a Tasmanian mountain classic, so a fitting name for a climb.

  20. Two routes from Garry:

     

    ***Thriller 23 100m

    Thriller offers exceptionally good quality climbing. Prepare your self for engaging and technical climbing in a wild location.  
    The route is fully Bolted.

    1.    15m (12).  Start as for Pscho Man, but then traverse left after a few meters aiming for the large ledge near the start of the sea cave.

     

    1. 30m (23). From the ledge clip the first bolt. Down climb to the horizontal break and traverse left and up. Wild!

    2. 20m (23). A bouldery start enables entry to the crack system. Up this to an easier finish.

     

    1. 20m (22) Up the slab above to just below the overlap.  Traverse left (crux) and up the line above.

     

    1. 15m (18) Step right and finish up the last few meters of Psycho Man.

     

    Gear List:

    • 3x 30cm quick draws
    • 1x 60cm quick draw
    • 14x quick draws

    FA: Garry Phillips and Kim Laggies 2016         

     

     

    ***Nemesis 27/28
    Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections.  Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris. 
    Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from .3 to 2 camolot.

    FA: Garry Phillips April 2017