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  1. Me and Kim Ladiges just climbed the East Face Regular Route on Mt Anne free. Impressive FA from Simon Young and Garry Phillips. This wall is epic.

     

    ★★ East Face Regular Route Free 190m 26 

    1. 35m  10  Scramble up broken ground to the base of the wall just right of the vague gray pyramid feature. Locate a couple of slings marking the base.
    2. 35m  21  Climb chossy face/corner for about 15m to the start of the crack proper. Climb this crack from hands to wide fist. There is a hex stuck in the crack about 20m up.
    3. 30m  23  From large ledge climb boldly through the thin face (RP's) to enter the finger crack. Up this to wide crack and ledge. It's also possible to head left at the end and up big crimps on face.
    4. 20m  18  Climb the broken corner and cracks to about 10m below roof
    5. 30m  26  Climb up cracks for 5m before heading right before the obvious roof. Make an exciting move right around the arête and up thin crack to a boulder problem entering the mini v-groove. Semi-hanging belay.
    6. 40m  23  Continue up crack that ranges from fingers to offwith at the top. Scramble back down into access gully or continue up upper buttress.


    Suggested gear: Double set of cams from #00 to #4 Camalot, possibly a #5 for top pitch, 15 draws, haul bag, tag line.


    FFA Kim Ladiges and Alex Hartshorne (alt) Jan 2018

  2. Circus Dreams 25

     

    Flinders Island, Mt Strzelecki, Ball Rock.

     

    Just 10 m right of Arctic Zephyr 24. It's a fully bolted sport climb and it is conceivable to take a sport rack up Mt Strzelecki, climb Into the Labyrinth 24 on the Main Face, then traverse over to Ball Rock and climb Circus Dreams for a great day out!

     

    55m, 21 bolts. Can be done in one or two pitches. When done in one pitch, bring seven extendables to avoid rope drag. Very unique, unusual and sustained climbing that lives up to the route name.

     

    1) 25m 24, 9 bolts to double bolt belay. Use extendables on second, third and fourth bolt to avoid rope drag. Climb up past second bolt to higher horizontal, then traverse and downclimb until able to gain the offwidth flare. Follow flaring crack to double bolt belay.

     

    2) 30m 25, 11 bolts to double bolt belay. Keep following crack and seam until it peters out (crux), climb up new crack until it's possible to traverse left. Use extendables on the four bolts from the beginning of the traverse to avoid rope drag. Follow golden slab to ledge with double bolt belay.

     

    descent: rap off with two 50m ropes. rope stretch will see you safely to the ground on the left (avoid little gully on the right).

     

    Photo shows first pitch and beginning of the second pitch up to about the crux. Not visible is the traverse and golden slab.

     

    Cleaned and bolted by John Fischer

    FA by Anna-Veronique L'hoest on 01.02.2018