Blog from April, 2020

Dear climbers. I'm tired of the `Star Wars' and I would appreciate some feedback please. I am working on a third edition to Climb Tasmania, a selected best climbs guide... totally revamped with fresh topos, some new crags, action's going to be a kick-ass guide for visitors and locals alike. How would people react to a `starless' guide? I'm a bit weary of the endless debate about stars and the totally subjective nature of assessing the quality of routes. Having put up a few new routes, its hard not to be biased and to inflate stars on my own routes because new routers invest so much time and effort. But people are also attracted to certain styles of route and diss routes that don't suit them. Some routes may be a bit dirty or have certain imperfections, or hard to access, but still have some great climbing. One problem with stars is that people gravitate to the 3 star routes and perfectly good climbs get neglected. I would like to foster an old skill that many climbers from the past used to have, that is to walk under a cliff and say..that looks like a great route..let's try that... with no indication in the guide of its quality, but just enough information to decide FOR YOURSELF if its safe and worthwhile doing...restoring a bit of self reliance and a climbers ability to judge and assess risk and decide whether to climb a route or not, based on their assessment, and not being hand-held by a guidebook all the way up a route. After all, a bit of mystery and adventure is partly why we all like climbing. If it is a selected best climbs guide, then it should be assumed that most of the routes in there are worth doing..and I will recruit the opinions of seasoned and respected locals to make the route selection. What do people think of a starless guidebook..or is this a silly idea from a long-lost galaxy far far away...

Anyone need any climbing wall nuts ? climbing wall nuts.jpeg

If you can fix a few plywood sheets somewhere for your next NW Garage Arete, Attic Overhang, or Kitchen Direct, I have a bunch of extra climbing wall nuts if anyone needs a couple dozen or three. Free to locals of course.  Hobart area.