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Hi 

I couldn't find the new routes 2020 page so I thought I'd create one. 

New route at Thylacine Buttress, Dog Leg Bend, North West Bay River.

*Barking Mad 24 20m 9 Bolts 

Start 4m Left of Wile E. Coyote. Chin up on the jug to clip the first bolt or stick clip. Funky moves lead to easy ground. Power up the sustained headwall and exit to the right. DBB.

FA: Tom Fulton, Pat Eberhard. May 2020

 Barking Mad line is depicted in red here Screen Shot 2020-05-30 at 8.55.13 pm.png

Thanks

 

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6 Comments

  1. An apparently overlooked line at Island Zawn. Hard to believe a little gem like this hasn't been done but it's not in the guide and judging by some very rattly flakes we knocked out of the crack we are pretty sure it is an FA. Please update if this is incorrect.

    Cruiciverbalisation 20m (21)**

    Access: Rap to hanging belay at the base of bottomless corner, 3m left of Swash.

    Up initial corner, traverse right under the roof and pull into splitter crack bisecting the face. Thin jamming leads to a short technical corner to finish.

    FA: Danny Hazell, Chris Arvier July 2020

    I have also bumped up the status of Swash to 3 stars. Been climbing at Freycinet for almost 10 years and I reckon this is up there with the very best mid-grade routes on the granite. Clean, sustained laybacking up an incredible corner. It seems to get almost no traffic but it deserves some love.

  2.  I just made some entries to route descriptions at the needles.The Needles It got burnt pretty comprehensively by that little Gell fire so there is no scrub and walking all over the place is easy. a good time to go exploring.... the two ridge routes described i think are worthwhile, particularly 'Syringe' as long as you can enjoy making sure you pull and stand on the bits of rock that won't break off.   Gear is adequate. the grades might be a bit rubbery, injection and syringe could be as easy as grade 7 and i can't imagine they would be harder than 10, feedback welcome. I first went climbing here  about 20 years ago when the hiking trail was barely discernable. Its a muddy shitshow now but i doubt climbers will outnumber instagrammers so hopefully it doesn't get worse.

  3. Yep, those ridges were climbed and a few other routes done on trips by the TUMC in the early 1970s but nothing written up, Broken and a tad shattered if I recall so even though grades are easy beginners should watch out for loose rock?

    Pity about the fires which really buggered up the forest below too, the open areas should recover after a few years,

    1. Thanks Phil. It is hard to conceive  that they had not been climbed before given its not an epic hike to get there and the routes aren't epic either  although i'm guessing the scrub before the fires was a bit of a barrier.

      yes anyone should watch out for loose rock although it seemed more of a holds may break more than climbing on loose blocks although they were there too.

      the sedge is regrowing and epicormics popping out on the eucalypts  but i think it probably was a pretty hot burn.

    2. Phil, surely the slab up the thimble was climbed back in the 70s too? 

      1.  I didn't hear about it but quite likely. I had a trip or two to the ridge area with the TUMC (pre Utas Rock Climbing Club formation) which was the main focus when viewed from the road. The Needles were not visited much though. In those days, apart from the Pipes there was Rocky Tom, Richmond, Clifton and Lowdina nearby. All on private land but accessible then.