Bare Rock

	10 - 45min
	10am until 6pm (Summer).
	200m Dolerite. Mostly Sport with some Mixed and Trad routes.

Acknowledgement

Original guide by Jon Tiller (thanks to Bob McMahon and Simon Parsons), first published in Craglets.

Introduction

You cannot really miss Fingal Cliff, no matter which direction you come from, it's a huge 200m rock that jumps out and grabs you by the throat. Yes, it is dolerite but it has a unique structure which offers few natural lines and creates an incredible atmosphere for climbing.

The climbing is of a more serious nature due to patches of loose rock (helmets essential); height and exposure all contribute to its atmosphere.

For the older established trad lines, Small quadcams, wires and RP's are useful at this cliff and double ropes are essential. And remember, when it's hot on this cliff, you can get fried to a crisp!

History

"It was not as if the black cliff at Fingal ever needed discovering. Perched up there in the paddocks behind the town, the black cliff streaked with orange is so obvious from the highway that I don't suppose anyone even notices it. The townspeople call it Bare Rock but I suspect the name is simply descriptive, like 'high mountain' or 'rough road'. Apart from the fact that it is there, I doubt whether it has much more significance for them." (Bob McMahon, Peaks 3).

Access

The property at the base of Bare Rock at Fingal is owned by climbers Andrew Martin and his partner Alannah.

A CALL or TEXT PRIOR TO COMING IS ESSENTIAL.
Simply text Andrew on 0418883418 each time that you intend on climbing here, including how long you intend to stay and how many people in your group. The neighbours keep an eye out due to a prior burglary. If Andrew knows you are coming he can simply inform them of this fact.

Do not plan to arrive after 9pm, as this causes an unnecessary disturbance to residents and looks suspicious.

There is a $10/car fee to help maintain the access road. There is an honesty box at the campsite.

Of paramount importance is the realisation that the road up to Bare Rock is not council maintained, and in fact, is paid for and maintained by the three private property owners (Andrew included). The other two have therefore asked that any climbers please drive slowly as this seems to really irritate them (the road gets chewed up very easily, as well as noise etc). Yes, you arrive 1 minute later, but recent “Schumacher wannabes” have made some of the neighbours contemplate the need to allow further access. PLEASE drive slowly on the dirt road section.

Try to minimize traffic on the private road by collecting supplies before you arrive, and car pooling where possible.

The cliff could be closed from AUGUST through to early DECEMBER to respect our birdlife. Peregrine Falcon nesting occurs all over the cliff, as well as at least one pair of Wedge Tail Eagles in the immediate area. Part of the attraction of climbing at this cliff is the untamed beauty of the area, which we to maintain, partly through the protection of these magnificent birds. August to December is nesting season, and disturbance of the birds is to be avoided in this time.

ACCESS INFORMATION
As you enter Fingal town from the west, take the third RH turn onto Legge Street and drive south towards the obvious cliff.
Turn L into Sorell Street and continue straight ahead along a track heading towards the cliff.
Take the second left turn (not the meatworks).
Continue on this unsealed road, turning right into Andrews property at a small sign for Bare Rock. Please take it easy on this road as it's steep in sections.
Drive past the house SLOWLY, and take the right turn to the camping area.

Camping

There is basic camping available on Andrew Martins property at the base of Bare Rock, including a basic toilet but no water.
Again, please inform Andy of your plans beforehand by texting him on 0418883418.

CAMPING AND THE TOILET ARE CLOSED FROM 01 NOVEMBER TO 15 APRIL

($10/car fee to help maintain the access road still applies). There is a free and sufficient campsite in Fingal town center.

Descent

The abseil route down joins Sapphire Rose and takes the steepest and longest part of the cliff. The line is sensational and not to be missed. The first abseil (about 60m to the L of the top of MacDonagh as you are looking at the cliff) requires that you rap off a tree (festooned with tape) for about 30m to the first chain. Three more raps lead to the bottom. Alternatively one can walk off easily via a taped and cairned track down the LH (east) side. A steep and loose descent gully can also be used on the far R of the cliff if you must. Take the second gully on the R as you are walking along the top.

Crag Steward

Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (fingalvalley@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

GPS

Description	UTM Zone	UTM Easting	UTM Northing	Lat	Long
Bare Rock (approx)	55G	582301	5386789	-41.66640	147.98862
Fingal: camp	55G	582126	5387004	-41.664481	147.986484
Fingal: New Horizons	55G	583109	5387503	-41.659888	147.998223

Show in Google Earth

The Boneyard

Access

There are three options accessing the Boneyard.

1) Ascend the fixed lines located directly below 'Fire in the Sky' just to the left of the Boneyard. NOTE THAT THESE ARE NOT ALWAYS PRESENT. Follow the rough track from the campsite to the right of an old shipping container, 50m on head to your right and continue to the scree and the base of the cliffs. Please ensure you place the ropes in the stainless rope protection when you pass, both ascending and descending.

2) Hike around the eastern edge of the cliff, climbing steeply to a cairn where the track takes you back west to the top of the fixed lines where you need to ascend a final fixed line. *The 2019 bushfires severely damaged this access but it is passable.

3) Continue up the eastern edge track to the summit and rap in.

The base of the Boneyard is very exposed, ensure you use slings or a PAS to stay safe along the fixed lines!

Gerry Narkowicz has put together most of the information for this area on his blog.
For access information http://climbnortherntasmania.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/boneyard-overview-and-access.pdf
For more information on everything else https://climbnortherntasmania.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/new-fingal-guide-dec-2012.pdf

Please be aware that any gear not left in the box will be annihilated by the resident rats. This includes ropes, shoes, jumars you name it.

★ 1.	Juice on the Loose	60m	22
	The two pitch route beside the abseil line from the Boneyard, directly below Fire in the Sky. First pitch grade 17. Second pitch - exciting pitch of face climbing through a small roof.
	Gerry Narkowicz, Andrew Martiin, Alannah Martin, 3 July 2022

★ 2.	Smoke on the Water	30m	24	Þ
	Good climbing, but quite a bit of loose rock. Start up Fire in the Sky, then follow the line of bolts heading leftwards and up.
	Paul Thomson 09-01-2015

★★ 3.	Fire in the sky	30m	23	Þ
	Easiest route at the Boneyard, Good warm up. Start is 30m left of the main Boneyard face on a lower terrace. Abseil 10m off anchors for Redneck Love, across fixed line to base of route beside large tree. Has cleaned up to be a classic. Terrific face climbing all the way.
	Gerry Narkowicz 08-04-12.

4.	Project		Þ
	Project - Andrew Martin

★★ 5.	Redneck Love	35m	25	Þ
	Furthest line of bolts left on the Boneyard. A terrific natural line with some excellent climbing. At the end of the fixed line is a double bolt belay. Traverse left for a couple of metres then up the thin crack/seam with mixed bolts and gear. The technical crux is the bulge low down on the route, but the redpoint crux is the fiery move just below the anchors. Mixed gear: cams 0.5 - 3, 3 wires and 2 hexes plus 16 draws. At least 4 slings will help as well.
	Andrew Martin, Jul 2012.

6.	Redneck Heaven	30m	27	Þ
	Takes the wall between Redneck Love and Heaven Can Wait. The climb shares a few holds with Heaven Can Wait however the upper crux is completely independent.
	Ingvar Lidman 5-Jan-2019

★★ 7.	Heaven Can Wait	30m	24	Þ
	Fully bolted.
	Gerry Narkowicz 15-07-2011.

★★★ 8.	Dopamine	30m	25	Þ
	Climb Heaven Can Wait for the first 5 bolts then head right and up. Superb, thin, sustained face climbing to join the anchors of HCW.
	Gerry Narkowicz May 2012

★ 9.	Latex Evening	40m	22
	The big crack bordering the LHS of the orange shield. Overhanging handcrack (18) to thin face, followed by superb fingerlock/layback crack on great rock, then an airy conclusion over the roof.
	Gerry Narkowicz 18-03-2011.

★★ 10.

Chase That Feeling

35m

27/28

Þ

The line immediately right of the big crack bordering the orange shield.

Several powerful moves low down followed by a sustained section of insecure slab climbing up the orange shield. Then a heartbreaking crux over the final roof.

Chris Coppard 25-3-2012.

★★★ 11.	Velvet Morning	30m	26	Þ
	Awesome climbing up the seam in the middle of the shield Fully bolted.
	Ingvar Lidman 07-2011.

★★ 12.	Barbarella!	35m	27	Þ
	Climb the right-trending crack with several hard sequences (heading right across Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs at the apex where the cracks meet), then up into more thin cruxy technical face climbing, and through roof to anchors.
	Ingvar Lidman 05-2014

★★ 13.

Queen of the Galaxy

32m

26

Þ

Links the lower half of Barbarella into the upper part of Velvet Morning via 4 new bolts and 8m of new (and tough) face climbing, eliminating the rests on both routes in the process. Hard for the grade, but worth the effort.

Climb Barbarella to the 7th bolt, and continue through the Shield crux to where it traverses sharply right (just before the 8th bolt). Straight up via new bolt, and continue up passing 3 more bolts to rejoin Velvet Morning at the undercling jug (hold shared with Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs). Step left into Velvet morning passing 3 bolts, and the nails roof-turn to the anchor.

Named for the Subtitle (secondary title) to the Jane Fonda softcore porno: Barbarella.

Paul Thomson 22-06-2016

★★ 14.	Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs	30m	25	Þ
	Climb the left trending jamcrack out to the middle of the shield (heading left across Barbarella at the apex where the cracks meet), then sustained face climbing in awesome position to the roof. Traverse right for 5m under roof and layback over to anchors (shared with Barbarella).
	Gerry Narkowicz 11-01-2011.

15.	project Garry Phillips	25m		Þ
	Starts up white powder then heads left. Thin, powerful and sick climbing all the way.

★★★ 16.	White Powder	25m	29/31	Þ
	Climbs the first 3 bolts of CGD then heads right. Fantastic climbing all the way. There is now a new variant that heads right at the start of the hard climbing and joins in slightly higher (grade 29).
	Garry Phillips 9-6-2012

★★★ 17.	Jet Stream	35m	28	Þ
	Climb Vapor Trail to just above the first anchors (25) then heads left via a V5 boulder problem and up to anchors.
	Garry Phillips 10-6-2012

★★★ 18.	Vapour Trail	30m	27	Þ
	Steep climbing up the bulging prow. There is a lower off at 25m. (grade 26 to here)
	Garry Phillips 14-07-2011..

★★ 19.	Legends Never Die	25m	27	Þ
	Climb Vapour Trail to just below the anchors, then head right up the steepest part of the crag via a rad boulder problem.
	Garry Phillips 20-04-2013

★★ 20.	Giving the Dog A Bone	20m	23
	Up Passchendaele for 15m to junction with left trending thin jam crack. Very steep thin jamming to anchors. Trad route
	Gerry Narkowicz 14-01-2012.

★★★ 21.	Passchendaele	50m	25
	The prominent overhanging crack in the centre of the Boneyard. Tassie's answer to Trojan at Arapiles. Jamming of various widths which just keeps going out, and out and out to a crux fingerlocking section. Awkward gaining the pod after the crux, then hold it together on 22 corner to the anchors. 8 bolt pitch of 22 face climbing for 2nd pitch.
	Gerry Narkowicz 09-07-2011..

★★★ 22.	Triple Direct	30m	29	Þ
	Start up Angel Of Pain (26), then cross over Passchendaele (0.75 or 0.5 cam) moving left to gain the upper section of Legends Never Die. Super sustained with a desperate crux below the anchors on flailing arms.
	Garry Phillips 24/5/14

★★★ 23.	Angel Of Pain	25m	26	Þ
	Next line right of Passchendaele. 8 bolts worth of steep face climbing and thin crack, followed by the top crux of Passchendaele and up to its anchors. Take medium wires plus purple, green and red camalot. Superb route.
	Gerry Narkowicz 06-05-2012.

★★★ 24.

Call of the Void

25m

33

Þ

Next line left of No Space in Time. A contender for the best climb on Bare Rock! This route requires stamina and lots of power for the bouldery crux sequence.
Tasmania's first 33!

R Sklenica

★★★ 25.

No Space In Time

25m

28

Þ

Climb the steep crack (2 medium wires and a #.75 and .5 camolots) then the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way.

One of the best 28's in Tasmania.

Ingvar Lidman 06-2011.

★★★ 26.	Atomic Vampire	28	Þ
	Fantastic power endurance climbing up the colourful streaks. A classic route.
	Ingvar Lidman 02-2012

27.	Marks Project	15m		Þ
	Project, Direct start to 2 fast to Furious Thin, powerful and sick climbing

★★ 28.	Too Fast Too Furious	15m	27	Þ
	Power up for for the bulge then traverse left (staying low and avoiding the jugs that have now appeared up high) and up to chains.
	Garry Phillips 17-07-2011.

★ 29.	Crack A Boner	20m	24
	Stiff for the grade. An old project of Doug Fife's. The overhanging crack on the RHS of the Boneyard face in between 2 Fast 2 Furious and Tiger Bean. A brutal exercise in steep jamming which gets you pumped all the way to the anchors. Well protected. Gear: camalots yellow micro, purple, red x 2, and medium to large nuts.
	Gerry Narkowicz 12th April, 2014

★★ 30.	Tiger Bean	15m	28	Þ
	Powerful start then up the cool orange wall above. Drop a grade if you head way out left near the 3 rd bolt!
	Garry Phillips 07-2011.

★★ 31.	Bad to the Bone	15m	25	Þ
	Last route on the right hand side of the wall. Thin and technical climbing all the way.
	Garry Phillips 07-2011.

Bare Rock Left

32.	Fagus	160m	16
	This climb follows the line of the chimney on the far LH end of the cliff, beyond the McCavity/Batten chimney. Climb up the face just L of the start of Boneyard to about the second belay of Boneyard and climb the chimney.
	R.Schmidt, J.Butler, 1976.

33.	McCavity-Batten Memorial Route	177m	17
	This route takes the line always confused with Faggus. Climb the first and second pitches as for Boneyard, but on the second pitch, instead of moving R up the ledge, go straight up from the belay - a delightful dolerite slab (17). The third pitch is a bold, sustained 50m pitch through a bulge of fairly loose rock in places and tight bridging in a huge chimney (17). The last pitch typically worthless.
	R. McMahon, R, Staszewski, 1979 (Alt).

34.

Boneyard

240m

15

A long and wandering route with much loose rock. An interesting experience! Start: Along the LH end of the cliff, a mossy nose of rock is the first pitch.
1. 37m	Climb the nose to a small ledge.
2. 40m	Move up and over onto easier angled rock. Move R along a ledge for a metre then climb the slab above to belay on a large ledge beneath a huge chimney line splitting the upper bulging yellow head wall (McCavity - Batten route).
3. 30m	Move across R delicately, then scramble to below a corner leading up to the obvious diagonal line below the head wall.
4. 37m	Ascend the crack to belay on the ledge constituting the diagonal line.
5. 46m	Scramble along out R along the line until the ramp narrows. Move delicately across (crux) to belay beside a large block.
6. 50m	Move up and over block and continue up the obvious L slanting line to the top.

R.McMahon, M.McHugh, P.Jackson (alt.), 1969.

★ 35.

Rainbow in the Dark

130m

21

Þ

Locate the start on the slab directly below the rightmost end of the Boneyard. To get there, follow orange tags towards Bare Rock in rough alignment as the road to the shipping container.

1. 30m 18	Up surprisingly steep box groove and slab finale.

2. 30m 21	Steep moves and thin crux to start, then onward to great slabbing and another crux.

3. 25m 19	Up face and slab (unpleasant start) with tricky face moves at the top.

4. 20m 19	More slab, with a hard first sequence, and a desperate one to gain the belay.

5. 25m 19	Up, with a few challenging moves on deteriorating rock. Easy chossy climbing to arrive at the righthand end of The Boneyard.

Rap the route (5 x 30m raps or 2 x 60m raps), or climb at The Boneyard and exit via the fixed lines.

Gerry Narkowicz (L), Paul Thomson (S) 06-03-2016

★ 36.

Fionn McCool

178m

19

Pitches 1 and 3 are excellent but the others are fairly ordinary. Start in the centre of the cliff in a shallow chimney below the subtle leftward leaning line that the routes follows.
1. 48m 19	Climb the chimney and bridge over the bulge (crux). Delicate face climbing above leads to the base of a wide, dirty corner. Up the corner to belay on a small grassy ledge. Note: On the first ascent the bulge was passed on the L up a flake before stepping R into the crack. This flake is no longer present, making this pitch the crux of the climb.
2. 40m 15	Climb the L side of the groove and move L to below the corner that a huge detached flake forms on its RH side with the wall. Move up the corner and belay on top of the flake.
3. 40m 17	Follow the diagonal crack out L in an incredible position past a junction with another crack running at right angles. (These form an "X " visible from the ground high on the face.) Continue on up the main crack, make a move L over a steep wall (17) and then climb on around the nose, finishing easily straight up to a large ledge.
4&5. 50m 9	From the R side of the ledge follow the easy but loose line out to the top.

R.McMahon, M.McHugh (alt.), 1971.

37.

Little Pinocchio

95m

A2+

An interesting excursion up the blank face to the R of Fionn McCool and about 20m L of The Sapphire Rose. An intimidating bolting dilemma on lead, but a pleasant enough second now, though don't overestimate the soundness of the rock nor the potential for good air time.
1. 25m	Climb the pedestal.
2. 35m	Blast straight up the blank wall to the leftward rising crack-line.

M.Perchard, J.Clarke, 1998.

★★ 38.

Black Fire

130m

25

Þ

A varied multipitch up the main face, which is more "fun" than some of the sustained slab multis nearby. Marred by sections of friable rock.

Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground (Bisso of Orange belay). The line of bolts trending righy from this foreshortened belay is Bisso of Orange.

It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the Bisso of Orange belay as a giant 40m pitch.

1. 40m 21	Up easy start passing interim belay, and continuing up technical slab for 40m to belay. The rock quality deteriorates as this pitch progresses.

2. 30m 25	Follow line of bolts right off belay (Ignore the line of bolts heading left of the belay - The Black Fire Pitch 2 Variant), up technical slab on fragile rock to steep bulge. Turn steep bulge with a big throw to finish, then technical finale trending left to join another line of bolts at the belay.

3. 35m 21	More thin slabbing on better rock, with a very profound crux at half height.

4. 20m 20	Easy slabbing upwards with a brief hard move past a rooflet, to belay on ledge below Orange Crush.

Either rap from here (3 x raps with double ropes) or finish up Orange Crush or Bisso of Orange.

Gerry Narkowicz

★★ 39.

Black Fire - Pitch 2 Variant

30m

27

Þ

A harder variant to Pitch 2, which tackles the extremely fingery bulge to the left.

Climb Pitch 1 of Black Fire.

2. 30m 27	Follow the line of bolts left off the belay (Ignore the line of bolts heading right off the belay - Black Fire Pitch 2), and up slab to roof. Hard moves through the roof, then tricky traversing back right to regain Black Fire just below the belay.

Continue as for Black Fire Pitch 3.

Ingvar Lidman

★★★ 40.	Bisso of Orange	185m	26	12Þ
	Between Fionn McCool and Sapphire Rose is a line of BRs that breaches the headwall at the top. The establishment of this route involved hardwork from several parties over a number of years. The route is fully bolted so it’s really a case of follow your nose and belay at the double bolts. Excellent sustained climbing on reasonable rock (some loose holds). 1. 25m 16. six BRs. 2. 30m 22. ten BRs. 3. 30m 22. ten BRs. 4. 35m 22. twelve BRs. 5. 25m 26. ten BRs (maybe 22,M1). 6. 35m 21. twelve BRs.
	Marc Tierney, Michael Fox, Kim Robinson, Feb 2006.

★★★ 41.

Into the Mystic

150m

25

Þ

A varied and sustained climb up some of the best rock here. A contender for the best Multipitch on Bare Rock

Starts as for P1 of Sapphire Rose.

1. 35m 22	Up Sapphire Rose P1 for 15m, then follow fixed hangers leading left and up with hard slab moves to the belay.

2. 20m 25	Up small corner/flake then onward through sustained thin crimping.

3. 25m 24	Traverse scarily left from the belay then upwards with increasing difficulty to belay.

4. 45m 22	A marathon Pitch of sustained thin slabbing. Up.

5. 25m 24	Steep moves on blocky slopers up the orange headwall to final crux as the last moves of the climb.

3 x raps (25m, 50m, 50m) to get back to the ground.

Gerry Narkowicz 08-06-2013

★★ 42.

Mystic Sapphire (Sapphire Rose Pitch 3 Variant)

20m

22

Þ

Links The Sapphire Rose into Into the Mystic at Pitch 3 via a traverse, avoiding the crux pitches of Into the Mystic and making a super-sustained grade 22 multipitch.

Climb Pitches 1 and 2 of The Sapphire Rose.

3. 20m 22	From the belay at the start of Pitch 3 of Sapphire Rose, traverse left past 5 bolts to gain the belay at the end of Into the Mystic Pitch 3.

Continue up Into The Mystic Pitch four.

Gerry Narkowicz and Andrew Martin, June 2013.

★★★ 43.

The Sapphire Rose

78m

22

Þ

A classic modern route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, between Finn McCool and Finn Crisp. Rack: seventeen quick-draws and two ropes.
1. 35m 22	Fifteen bolts to chain. Ascend the juggy wall, pull through the roof and then head straight up to a good resting spot. Continue up the wall above to the L end of a diagonal line rising to the R. Make a spectacular and sustained traverse R to belay on a small foot ledge.
2. 15m 21	Five bolts to chain. Traverse delicately L and then straight up the tricky face to the belay ledge.
3. 28m 21	Nine bolts to chain. Take care getting to the first bolt, then climb the superb face above to belay below the final head-wall. Steep slab climbing at its best!

S.Edwards, S.Eberhard, 1994.

★★★ 44.

Morning's Minion

30m

23

Þ

A brilliant pitch of technical slab and face climbing, which can be done as an alternate (direct) first pitch to The Sapphire Rose, or as a single pitch in its own right.

Starts 5m right of The Sapphire Rose. Up slab, then crux past technical face on orange rock, to final moves through rooflet to gain the 1st belay of The Sapphire Rose.

Andrew Martin 01-06-2013

★★★ 45.

Ride the Lightning

27

Þ

Varied and engaging, with every pitch featuring quality climbing. Possibly the best multipitch on Bare Rock.

Starts 5m right of Morning's Minion.

1. 30m 26	Up slab to rooflet, through rooflet and into technical, thin face climbing (crux) and up easier ground to a final hard sequence below the belay.

2. 15m 22	Weird slab climbing. Move left off the belay and up. Bizarre moves right, then up slab with a few thin moves to the belay.

3. 40m 20	Consistently brilliant technical slabbing with hands-off rests after every sequence. Follow the line of bolts up.

4. 20m 25	Up with powerful moves through the initial bulge (a 3-move boulder problem, harder if you're short), and up easier steep terrain to the anchor.

5. 30m 27	Brilliant climbing. Up slightly steep orange streak via much thinness and technicality. Gain the black rock and up to the belay.

6. 50m 4	A doddly exit pitch to top-out. Easy climbing but with much loose rock. Be careful.

Top out and walk down via the Boneyard access track, or rap back down the route (2 ropes required).

Andrew Martin, Ingvar Lidman (Pitch 5).

★★ 46.	Thunderstruck	30m	26	Þ
	Starts a few metres right from the belay at the start of Ride the Lightning Pitch 4.
	Ingvar Lidman.

47.	CLOSED PROJECT - Gerry's Project.	?	?	Þ
	CLOSED PROJECT - Please stay off this. Starts 7m right from the belay at the start of Ride the Lightning Pitch 4 (right of Ingvar's 26).

★ 48.	Padraic Pearse	270m	21
	Climb the front face of the ramp and from the top climb up overhanging leftwards corner. When they finish, climb through the overlap (crux) and up face to the R, joining Finn Crisp on the large ledge with a tree. Continue up Finn Crisp to pass the head-wall.
	R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1980 (alt).

★★ 49.	Finn Crisp	200m	18
	Starts at the huge grassy, R- leading ramp. May not as of yet had a second ascent in its entirety. Scramble up the ramp and from the top move up and R on the face. Follows the lichen streaked nose of rock up the blank face left of MacDonagh.
	J.Friend, W.Stevens, 1976.

Rap-In Area Between the Boneyard and The Great Roof

A small collection of rap-in, climb-out routes (though they can be accessed by climbing Black Fire or Bisso of Orange) in the middle of the wall, clearly recognisable by the broad, vibrant orange streak at the top of the wall (Orange Crush).

Access by rapping in from the top. Walking up from the Boneyard access track, locate the moderately sized cairn just past the marked turn-off up to the major campsite/parking area atop Bare Rock (on your left), and head straight down the hill (carefully). The anchors are located by the cliff edge surrounded by a lot of loose rock. Rap 35m (with a possible re-belay after 15m) to the 2 belays above The Obsidian Obsession Project, and Orange Crush. Rap again 30m (bouncing to stay in contact with the wall) to a small but cozy ledge and chain anchor.

Alternatively, access the routes by climbing Black Fire or Bisso of Orange.

★★ 50.

Amber Allure

32m

25

16Þ

The "easy exit" from the Orange Crush ledge can be used as a way of climbing Black Fire to the top of the cliff (at a similar grade), as a way of exiting Orange Crush Ledge, or as a fun single pitch in its own right.

From the belay, move left and up, following incipient crack to bulge. Left at bulge and up onto ledge. Hard moves off ledge, then easier climbing up and right to a final punchy finish on small crimps.

Can JUST lower back to the belay on a 60m rope (tie a knot in the end!)

Paul Thomson 30-03-2016

★★ 51.	Amber Allure Direct	25m	27	Þ
	Climbs Amber Allure to the 6th bolt, then heads directly up the steep, thin face (where AA traverses left through the bulge) via punchy moves, the join Amber Allure just before it's top headwall.
	Garry Phillips 15-06-2016

52.

CLOSED PROJECT - Ingvar's Project

25m

Þ

CLOSED PROJECT - PLEASE STAY OFF!

Climbs Obsidian Obsession for 4 bolts, then breaks off left to tackle the bulge via extremely powerful and fingery moves, to rejoin Obsidian Obsession at its last bolt. Through bulge to anchor.

53.

CLOSED PROJECT - The Obsidian Obsession

25m

11 Þ

Paul Thomson's multi-year siege. Please stay off this.

Heading left from the belay, climb the Black section of rock with varied and intense climbing past 11 bolts.

★★★ 54.

Orange Crush

25m

29

Þ

Possibly the proudest position on Bare Rock. Powerful, reachy and extremely fingery climbing up the vibrant, broad orange streak in the upper centre of Bare Rock.

Heading right from the belay, make your way up the orange streak and through the bulge to the belay.

Ingvar Lidman.

It's possible to climb Bisso of Orange Pitch 5 (25m 26**) in isolation, belayed from the Orange Crush Ledge.

Traverse right from the belay to the first bolt of Bisso of Orange Pitch 5, place a long runner on the first bolt, then continue up the pitch as normal.

Bare Rock Right

★★★ 55.

God Monster

125m

25

A fantastic and varied route with superb face climbing, hard thin slab then a steep headwall. Start at the line of bolts 30m left of Macdonagh at the left hand side of the huge curving arched roof.

1. 30m 22	Follow the lip of the roof to anchor just before the line traverses right.
2. 30m 22	Continue following the lip of the arch as you traverse right, then directly up past 4 more bolts to belay.
3. 30m 25	(11B) Climb the slab to gain a left leading seam over a small overlap. Follow the seam before veering rightwards to regain the centre of the slab. Straight up the slab to belay at rings.
4. 35m 25	(12B) Step left and climb the steep and exposed orange wall to a small stance. Continue straight up passing a couple of awkward bulges before blasting up the final headwall.

Descent: 3 raps of 35m, 30m and 60m. Double ropes essential. Gear: 22 draws – a few longer draws handy on 1st pitch

Ingvar Lidman January 10 2012

★★ 56.	Godhead's Lament	25m	24	11Þ
	A mighty steep pitch that can be climbed as a single pitch, or as a harder start to God Monster. Starts 6m right of God Monster on the steep underside of the arch that God Monster traverses around. Up via much steepness (by Bare Rock standards) remaining on the underside of the arch (stemming for the first 4 bolts as necessary), finishing up at the anchor at the end of God Monster Pitch 1 after the last ringbolt on the face (you shouldn't be clipping any of bolts on God Monster).
	Paul Thomson 04-02-2016

★★ 57.	Influence of a Drowsy God	35m	26	17Þ
	Extremely steep. Starts up Godhead's Lament, breaking right at the 2nd last bolt (10th bolt from the ground) and continuing to climb the arch through even more ridiculously steep terrain past 7 more bolts. Anchors located below the lip and to the right to facilitate cleaning on lower-off.
	Paul Thomson 09-03-2016

★★★ 58.

MacDonagh

199m

17

A fine route following the crack line L of the massive roof on the cliff's RH end. It has three variant starts on the lichenous pillar below the line of the climb (L, middle and R) with the LH one the best.
1. 58m 12	At the bottom of the gully on the L side of the pillar, start to the R behind the trees where a subsiduary slab meets the face and climb the excellent crack/corner. At the top of the crack, traverse a metre or so R and climb the wall to belay.
2. 37m 16	From the L side of the top of the pillar move up the R side of a 3m high block, then step down L into the crack. Follow the crack to belay where it narrows.
3. 37m 12	Up the fantastic crack in a shallow corner to below the roofs. Move R to where a crack splits the overhang at its narrowest and belay.
4. 30m 17	Up and around the overhang on jams (crux) and continue up the side of the very large flake to belay on its top.
5. 37m 12	Move a metre L then up the slab to the top. A fine pitch, unusual for dolerite. Finish up easy but loose ground above. (Editor's note: there's a lot of poxy old choss heaps in the state which get described as "fine routes"; this is, however, a genuinely pleasant and interesting climb).

R.McMahon and P.Jackson, 1969. 1b) R.McMahon and E. Mallinson.

59.

MacDonagh Variant Finish

85m

18

1. 40m	From the top of pitch 3 climb the corner and ramp up L.
2. 45m	Move R up bulge (no pro), and finish up last pitch of Finn Crisp.

Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Gerry Narkowicz, 1983.

60.

Hardly Worth the Effort

140m

A2+

In his original write up for the CCT Circular, Garry said the route was "Hardly worth the effort"; he might be wrong (if you can follow his route description!). The route name was not supplied, and the one above was originally an interim one, but it seems to have stuck.
1.	As for MacDonagh to "obvious" ledge.
2.	Crank free straight out of belay up slab to "obvious" ledge under roof. Aid and free climb onto the ledge. Aid up to carrot. Aid through crack (two fixed wires). Bat hook past second carrot up the crack in the slab.
3.	Do a massive traverse rightwards to climb behind the arête. Free climb rightwards under roof until triple carrot (?) belay.
4.	Aid out L through roof crack. Traverse rightwards until double bolt belay.
Rack: Double sets of cams and wires, assorted pins (mostly knife blades), two hooks. Three double rope abseils reach back to the ground.

G.Phillips, S.Harper, May 1997.

★ 61.

Conan MacMorna

180m

17

Starts: Two thirds of the way up the R side of the mossy pillar.
1.	Climb up the R side of mossy pillar (dirty). At two-thirds height belay on a block at the same level as the traverse.
2.	Hand traverse R to base of a rising diagonal crack. This is a fine traverse in the same league as the one on Skink, Mt Arapiles.
3.	Follow the rising diagonal that cuts back a little L to the base of a black leftward leaning corner. There is a direct variant third pitch called Red Sonja, see below.
4.	Climb the L facing corner (which curves leftwards into a roof after about 10m), turn the roof at the top (crux), move slightly R on the orange face and then boldly straight up the orange face to a belay under the big roof.
5.	Traverse out R on the face under great roof (easy but great fun).

R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1980.

62.	Red Sonja	25m	18
	A direct 3rd pitch of Conan McMorna. From the belay after the second pitch of Conan McMorna climb straight up the crack, on the L side of the orange triangle of rock. At the top of the crack, move L to a flake and then straight up. Walk along the ledge to join Conan McMorna. at the start of the 4th pitch. This is a much better alternative to pitch 3 of Conan McMorna.
	Sam Edwards, Jon Tiller, 1994.

★★ 63.

Yesterday's Hero

40m

21

Þ

A great long pitch of technical slabbing, with a few roofs to keep things spicy.

Start as for Tomorrow's Dream, climbing directly up to the ledge. Then up following technical black slab for 35m, with varied moves of increasing difficulty.

Combine with P3 of Tomorrow's Dream for a brilliant 2-pitch multi following some of the best rock in the area.

G. Narkowicz 30-04-2016

★★★ 64.

Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts

180m

26

Þ

A Symphony of Rock!

The line of bolts continuing directly up from the top of Pitch 1 of Tomorrow's Dream is part of a multipitch being developed that tackles the entire Bare Rock face, around the roof, and up the headwall to the top.

Bring 2 x 60m ropes (or 1 x 80m rope), 16 quickdraws, and plenty of muscles.

1. 30m 16	12 Bolts - "The Easy Slab Pitch" - As for Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 1.

2. 20m 24	6 Bolts - "The Funky Roof-Turn Pitch" - Straight up the orange face above the belay, to hard (and funky!) moves getting into the roof, turning the lip and getting established on the face. Easier slab climbing above to belay.

MOVE BELAY UP 5M to RINGS JUST BELOW SHORT SLAB (5m left of Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 3).

3. 12m 21	6 bolts - "The Hard Slab Pitch" - Climb the short, technical black slab above. Up past 2 bolts, then traverse right (to avoid very bad rock), and the up via hard moves.

4. 45m 23	14 Bolts - "The Tenuous Traverse Pitch" - Hard moves off the belay around the bulge, then sustained insecure traversing left below the roofs for 4 bolts. Traverse more easily left to below the final roof. Turn the roof, then continue up Black-and-Yellow streaked slab to belay just below The Great Roof. Some strategically placed long runners will be crucial for mitigating rope drag.

5. 15m 26	8 Bolts - "The Outrageous Roof Pitch" - Head directly left from the belay, staying at the same height as the bolts (via desperate sloper-slapping and heel hooking) to a penultimate move to bridge the void between the end of the roof and the Easter-Rising Ledge-system. Stay low (you shouldn't need to touch the Guano) and traverse left along the ledge to belay below the Black Streak. (The next line of Fixed Hangers to the right is Enchanted to a Stone).

6. 15m 25	8 bolts - "The Bouldery Black-Streak Pitch" - Step left off the belay and up past 2 bolts to boudery climbing with a powerful, juggy finale to belay on ledge.

7. 15m 24	7 bolts - "The Technical Stemming Pitch" - Left past a bolt to join Enchanted to a Stone just before the crux of that route. Up through the stepped roofs to belay on top of headwall.

8. 25m 12	6 bolts - "The Junky Exit Pitch" - Just an exit pitch. Head up off the belay, traverse right, up a bit, then more right, and a touch more up to belay at top of cliff. Average rock, but not too terrible.

DESCENT:

Top out, and walk back down the Approach/Descent Gully at the far Right-Hand side (looking out) of the summit of Bare Rock.

Pitches 1 - 4 (up to The Great Roof) can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes down the line of the climb to reach the ground.

For Pitches 5 - 8, you can rap the Easter Rising face to the Belay below Pitch 6 (on the ledge above the Great Roof) being careful not to get stranded in space from the steepness, then rap 30m straight down to a belay on its own in the middle of nowhere. Then rap 35m again diagonally right (looking in) to the anchors at the top of Yesterday's Hero. Be careful not to get the rope stuck in the crack, or to pull any loose rock onto yourself. Then rap 40m to the ground.

P1 - G. Narkowicz; P2 - Equipped by G. Narkowicz, FFA - P. Thomson (Belayed by G. Narkowicz); P3, P4 & P5 - P. Thomson (Belayed by G. Narkowicz); P6 & P8 - P. Thomson (Belayed by J McCarthy; P7 - P. Thomson (Belayed by Ingvar Lidman).

★★ 65.

Tomorrow's Dream

100m

19

13Þ

More or less a direct line up the face to the big roof and bisecting Conan Macmorna at one stage. Start 20m right of Conan Macmorna.
1. 30m 16	Delightful climbing up the black slab to a narrow ledge, then traverse right for 5m to the next line of bolts up a steeper slab to double bolt belay at apex of orange triangle of rock. 12 bolts.
2. 25m 17	Ignore the line of bolts going directly up from the belay (Unknown Project). Climb the big diagonal of Conan Macmorna to the right for 15m with trad gear (ignoring another line of bolts at 5m - The Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 2 Variant), to a point opposite bolt on left face . Traverse left spectacularly via 2 bolts on small rail to middle of face, then straight up to belay at chains on big ledge. 2 bolts plus cams size 1-4 and long slings.
3. 45m 19	Move belay 5m right to another double bolt belay. Lovely face moves up the next black face for 4 bolts, followed by a 10m section of mank up to the base of the amazing orange headwall. Superb face climbing (crux) up the orange wall on Arapiles like rock, to belay at chains on ledge below big roof. 13 bolts. Either rap from here (two raps to ground with double 60m ropes) or continue up to Supernaut area (see below).
Gear: 16 draws required, cams 1-4, double 60m ropes. 20 draws if doing Supernaut.

Gerry Narkowicz, Andrew Martin, Oct 2010.

★ 66.

Tomorrow's Dream - Pitch 2 Variant

30m

22

Þ

A fully bolted, though somewhat harder variant to Pitch 2 of Tomorrow's Dream, which means you can leave the trad gear at home.

Climb Pitch 1 of Tomorrow's Dream.

2. 30m 22	Start as for Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 2. Ignore the line of bolts going directly up from the belay (Unknown Project). Traverse right for 5m to gain a line of bolts heading directly up the black slab above. Head up the slab with a few thin moves to regain Tomorrow's Dream just below the belay.

Continue as for Pitch 3 of Tomorrow's Dream.

Gerry Narkowicz

67.

Tomorrow Dream - Pitch 3 Variant - ANDREW'S PROJECT

35m

Þ

CLOSED PROJECT - PLEASE STAY OFF!

Andrew's bolted variant to Pitch 3 of Tomorrow's Dream.

Start as for Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 3, then after 10m take the rightmost line of bolts up to the ledge. Mostly gr21/22, but with a hard crux in the gr24 range.

★★ 68.	The Biggest Thing Since Powdered Milk	30m	23	Þ
	Start 40m right of Tomorrow's Dream. A superb one pitch slab climb. A bouldery crux low down on the steep bulge, then delightful moderate climbing becoming increasingly thinner until the thinnest move of all near the top providing another crux. There are 2 alternate finishes: at the last bolt move left to big jug and chin up onto block to gain ledge - easy; or go right for 2 more thin moves making it more sustained.
	Gerry Narkowicz 27/7/12

★ 69.

Cock Rocket

30m

26

Þ

Rodney's old "Rocketman" Project, tried by many and finally Sent by Ingvar Lidman.

Starts 5m right of The Biggest Thing Since Powdered Milk.

Up to powerful, slopey crux on caramel-coloured rock. Easier climbing above culminates in a fingery, reachy upper crux around the square-cut roof. Climb the technical face above to the anchor.

Ingvar Lidman.

The Great Roof - The Easter Rising Trilogy

Accessed by climbing Tomorrow's Dream, and traversing left on easy terrain past several bolts and a fixed rope.

★ 70.

Terrible Beauty

45m

25

20 Þ

Due to hard-to-clip bolt placements, this is best climbed by placing the draws on the upper 2/3rds on the abseil in.

Start 3m left of MacDonagh's 4th pitch at a single bolt belay. Excellent steep climbing, with 2 definite cruxes - not as sustained as Easter Rising but the crux moves are harder. Through roof and up orange face to cross Macdonagh after about 15m. Step right out of Macdonagh and up through leftwards slanting stepped roofs (first crux). Rest on small stance and move right and over next roof (crimpy pull through roof - the crux). Lovely face climbing on steep ground with big holds for another 4 bolts to a small ledge below the last roof. Strenuous through the blocky roof to the final corner and the same anchors as Easter Rising.

Gerry Narkowicz 14/7/2012

★★★ 71.

Easter Rising

45m

25

22 Þ

A candidate for the best pitch of bolted 25 in Northern Tas.

Start just right of the guano patch at the base of Macdonagh's 4th pitch. Up the steep face (crux) passing 5 bolts to a small ledge. Move 2m left and continue up through steep territory with a small roof providing another crux. The route continues with some hard moves in between good rests on large footholds, though slightly overhanging all the way. A spekky traverse move to gain the left slanting corner near the top with another couple of potentially heartbreaking pumpy moves.

Named after the Easter rising of 1916 against British rule in Ireland, of which Macdonagh was one of the leaders.

Access: Two ways: either climb Tomorrows Dream, then traverse left along the easy bolted slab (7 bolts, grade 3) to the base of the route. Then rap down Tomorrows Dream to descend - two 60m ropes. Or walk to the top and rap in, then top out. There are rings at the top 20m right of the top of Macdonagh. Rap 15m down slightly to the left to another set of rings at the top of Easter Rising. There are 4 bolts up through the choss after finishing Easter Rising so you can top out.

Take half a dozen extendable draws for potential rope drag!

Gerry Narkowicz 12/1/12

★★★ 72.	Enchanted to a Stone	40m	24	Þ
	Climbs the first 4 bolts of Easter Rising to the ledge, then takes the rightmost line of bolts up the orange wall to a ledge/ramp. Then tackle the tough and tricky crux finale with extremely technical stemming through a series of sharply overhanging stepped roofs.
	Gerry Narkowicz 02-12-12

Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts climbs the black streak 3m right of where Enchanted to a Stone leaves Easter Rising).

73.

Ingvar's Project - CLOSED PROJECT

20m

Þ

CLOSED PROJECT - PLEASE STAY OFF!

Ingvar's Flake Project. Climbs the black flake trending right from the belay below Pitch 7 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts.

Up rightward leaning flake via hard moves to blunt arete. Up arete, then back left across featured black streak to rejoin Enchanted to a Stone at its last bolt.

74.

Rise of the Masked Lapwing - CLOSED PROJECT

30m

15Þ

PAUL T'S PROJECT - PLEASE STAY OFF!

Takes the line of best rock and position on all of Bare Rock, starting from a good belay ledge, and featuring sustained steep climbing (non-stop gr25 climbing for 25m) with big and complex moves on mostly good holds.

Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).

Traverse right to a bolt. Up arete (staying on leftside) to another bolt, move up and right into a steep stemming stance (bolt). Hard moves out of the stance and onto the blunt arete (bolt), then sustained rightwards traverse past 3 more bolts to glue in rings. Sustained steep and powerful moves up to rooflet (bolt), traverse right under the rooflet to join Gazza's Project (past 1 more bolt) and up it (past 2 more bolts) to anchor.

Equipped by Paul Thomson 01-07-16

★★★ 75.	Green Spandex	25m	26	Þ
	A Rap-in, Climb-out line starting from a fully-hanging belay on the very lip of The Great Roof. Follows a diagonal right-trending seam-crack.
	Chris Copphard.

Supernaut Face

Accessed by scrambling up the right-hand side of Bare Rock via a loose gully. Alternatively by climbing Tomorrow's Dream, and traversing right on easy terrain past several bolts.

It's also possible to rap-in from the top. The rap point above the climbs can be seen from a position on the righthand side (looking in) at the top of Bare Rock, perpendicular to the Supernaut face.

★★ 76.	Peppa Pig	20m	25	Þ
	Starts 7m left of Into the Void. Ramble up the slab. Then do a techo sequence of moves to get into the roof. Powerful moves through this and the corner above. Traverse left and up to the chains of Master of Puppets.
	Garry Phillips Feb 2013.

★★ 77.	Mr Potato	18m	25	Þ
	Your friend and mine. Starts up Peppa Pig but at the top of the corner head up and right past 3 BR.
	Garry Phillips Feb 2014.

78.	CLOSED PROJECT - Master of Puppets
	Andrew Martins Project - Please stay off this,

★★ 79.

Master of Puppets - Pitch 2

20m

20

Þ

The 2nd Pitch of Master of Puppets can be climbed on its own by rapping in from anchors 10m right looking out) of the Supernaut top anchors. The rap point above the climbs can be seen from a position on the righthand side (looking in) at the top of Bare Rock, perpendicular to the Supernaut face.

Rap 45m (with an interim belay) to a hanging corner above the huge roof. Engaging, technical face climbing.

Andrew Martin 02-01-11

★★★ 80.	Fairies Wear Boots	45m	27	20Þ
	The route on the left of the face rising leftwards out to the arete above the big roof. Start 10m down left of Supernaut and belay on the abseil chains on the slab. Up 4 bolts via the steep face (25) to stance at the base of the right trending hanging corner. Go left across the overhanging face (crux) out to the arete. Continue up the arete (23) for 5 bolts to join Supernaut. Continue up Supernaut for the last 8 bolts.
	Ingvar Lidman, Jan 2011.

★★★ 81.	Into the Void	45m	25	20Þ
	Up first 4 bolts of Fairies Wear Boots to stance at hanging corner. Up corner to right with a tricky move (23) then straight up the face to join Supernaut. Continue up the last 8 bolts of Supernaut.
	Gerry Narkowicz Feb 2011.

★★★ 82.	Supernaut	45m	24	16Þ
	The magnificent orange and black face up R of the big roof on the far RH side of the cliff. Access via Tomorrow's Dream. From the chains at the top of the 3rd pitch of Tomorrow's Dream, traverse right along narrow ledge with 2 bolts to tree, then up easy slab to double bolt belay (about 20m). The start of the route is 10m higher up to the right. Step off the slab and scramble up to point opposite the climb and belay on flat stance where there is a single belay bolt. Up the overhanging seam for 3 bolts (crux) then a rising traverse on superb orange rock out towards the arête (this section about grade 23). Climb just R of the arête (great exposure) for a sustained section of grade 21 face climbing for 20m to the top. 16 bolts. Descent: 4 raps from the top with chains, first to ledge below Supernaut, then reverse narrow ledge section to chains above Tomorrows Dream. Double 60m ropes required.
	Gerry Narkowicz, 3 July 2010.

★★★ 83.	Heaven and Hell	45m	25	Þ
	Climb Supernaut for 5 bolts, then head slightly right and more directly up on orange rock via sustained, thin, varied, and tricky-to-read sequences to the anchors.
	Gerry Narkowicz

★★★ 84.	Neon Knights	40m	24	Þ
	Climb the first 4 bolts of Supernaut, then head right and up on orange rock for sustained, excellent technical climbing. An old fashioned bridging problem in the upper corner may provide a redpoint crux for some.
	Gerry Narkowicz. 22/4/14

New Horizons Buttress

A small, precise columnar buttress on the hillside to the east of Bare Rock. About 50m past the house, turn left on the 4wd track and after 100m there is a paddock. From the bottom, left corner of the paddock, a taped route goes down the hill, across a creek, through the bush to the base of the hill, then a very steep walk up the hill...all up about 40 minutes.

★ 85.	Cock Smack Down	15m	16
	About 100m left of the main crag and across the gully is a neat, tall buttress. Climb the main face utilizing the big holds created by the extensive cleaning process which knocked many large blocks off. Only 4 pieces of cosmetic protection on the route; would have made a nice sport route.
	Gerry Narkowicz and Wade Bone 17/8/19

★★★ 86.	The Way Of The Beanie	12 m	22
	Straight up the planar black face (about 30 m left of the next route). This short route packs in a lot of climbing. A dyno is, arguably, the easiest way to dispatch the crux.
	Andrew Martin, Oct 2013.

★ 87.	Captain Cocksmack	12m	19
	A thin seam up a slightly overhanging orange wall leads to an overhang with loose looking blocks to finish up an off-width crack. Great climbing with adequate gear. Dubious looking loose blocks in the roof are keyed in and ok for gear and reefing on to surmount the overhang. The off-width is easily laybacked on the left side.
	Gerry Narkowicz, Nick Clements, Wade Bone. 17/8/19

88.	Cocksmack Crack	12m	17
	The thin crack up the wall left of White Death. A worthwhile climb which is well protected and some nice technical moves.
	Gerry Narkowicz and Kris Penn

★ 89.	White Death	20m	16
	Hand crack a few meters left of The Fool. Very good route; the most pleasant easy route at the crag. Traverse to the right near the top to the anchors for the Fool.
	Robert McMahon, Gerry Narkowicz, Marc Tierny, 5 Jun 1984.

★ 90.	The Fool	15 m	20
	Bolted, but not quite enough to be a safe lead. AM's advice is to TR it after doing BLB.
	Doug Fife, Oct 2012.

★★ 91.	Black Leather Barbarian	20m	20
	Up the middle of the black, streaked, face. A few meters before the top, diagonal leftwards, around the arete, to the anchors on The Fool. Originally led in natural gear, but retro-bolted by some barbarian.
	Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, Marc Tierny, 5 Jun 1984.

92.	Dripping Wet Crack	15 m	17
	The dihedral in the upper left of the alcove. Andrew says it is a nice climb ...
	Andrew Martin, October 2012.

★★ 93.	Captain Awesome	15 m	23.99
	Go up and rightwards across the brown and black face, desperately milking as much value as you can from the miserably small side-pulls. Great stuff.
	Andrew Martin, Nov 2012.

94.	Froot Loops	20m	16
	Left facing corner. According to Gerry it is "not as grovelly as it looks".
	Marc Tierny, Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, 5 Jun 1984.

★★★ 95.	Judge Dread	15m	28	Þ
	The main face at New Horizons buttress. A beautiful line of natural holds on perfect dolerite. Grade 25 face climbing to a desperate boulder problem at three quarter height.
	Ingvar Lidman 25/5/14

★★★ 96.	The Mullets Edge	18 m	24
	Superlative arete. Occasionally climbing on the face right of the arete.
	Gerry Narkowicz, Oct 2012.

97.	Andrew's Arse Crack	18 m	20
	The offwidth. Apparently, "it had to be done". The climbing itself may be even worse than the name; but you'll have to climb it to find out. Don't expect much gear.
	Gerry Narkowicz, Oct 2012.

★★ 98.	New Horizons	20m	20
	Steep corner on R. Hard in the middle ... maybe more than 20.
	Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, Marc Tierny, 5 Jun 1984.

★★ 99.	Captain Mullet	18 m	26
	Thin stuff on bolts.
	Gerry Narkowicz, Oct 2013.

★★ 100.	Old Horizons	18 m	26
	More thin stuff. This is the right-most of the established climbs, so is the first one you see on arrival.
	Gerry Narkowicz, Oct 2013.

The Block

The monstrous chunk of Bare Rock that broke off to form The Great Roof now resides in the gully that runs Parallel to Bare Rock, directly below The Great Roof. This block is so massive, that it has a swathe of short, sporty route bolted on all sides of it.

Access by finding the block in the gully, directly below The Great Roof.

Bare Rock Bouldering

The gully that runs parallel to Bare Rock hosts a number of established boulder problems of reasonable quality.

THIS LIST IS A WORK IN PROGRESS.

Gallery


Supernaut Face Topo

Pitch 5 - AEEP	A lazy topo of the routes on the Easter Rising Face and the Great Roof Headwall

		Bare Rock, 1978. Where's Wally now? - Photo S Karpiniec