Fort Direction

Introduction

Fort Direction is a small bouldering crag near Fort Direction in South Arm. Some surprisingly good quality compact rock, but also be aware of loose rock as there is plenty. Most of the problems do not top out and instead finish at a point just below the top of the cliff.

Access

Park by the playground at Blessington Coastal Reserve and walk down onto the beach. Head south to the end of the beach and take the pathway up onto the headland track. Follow this around and once you reach the Lone Pine head back right towards the ocean and scramble down to the crag. Alternatively you can continue around the rocky point at sea level from the end of the beach.

GPS

Code	Description	UTM Zone	UTM Easting	UTM Northing	Height	Lat	Long
	Fort Direction main wall	55G	533302	5233959		-43.04633	147.40888

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★ 1.	The Nick of Time	V4
	A good steep problem on the left side of the small cave. Start sitting with hands on rounded ledge, feet high. Make a powerful move up and right to small hold on diagonal seam, left hand to small crimp on face, then cross through to finishing jug. Match and drop off.
	Jack Colbeck 28/10/22

2.	Eelsnake	V1
	Start sitting below the front of the overhung block, hands on jugs, feet on little back wall below overhang. Climb up and leftwards to finish on the ledge.
	Jack Colbeck 28/10/22

3.	Into the Pipe	V2
	Sit start below overhung block, feet on little back wall. Climb up and rightwards to finish on the ledge.
	Jack Colbeck 28/10/22

4.	Permanent Marker	V1
	Sit start on right side of the front face. The wedged block below is in for feet. Climb straight up to the ledge on sharp holds.
	Jack Colbeck 28/10/22

5.	Right Sharp	V1
	Sit start below the right arete of the overhung block. The wedged block below is in for feet. Climb directly to the ledge above.
	Jack Colbeck 28/10/22

6.	Bad Break	V2
	Sit start. Climb up via undercuts to the slopey horizontal slot on the right of the upper wall. Finish at the break above. Slightly eliminate by not using the crack on the right at the top.
	Jack Colbeck 25/07/22

7.	Rubble	V0
	Sit start. Straight up to the break using the crack and holds to the right.
	Jack Colbeck 25/07/22

8.	Careful Now	V1
	Sit start. Mantle onto the small ledge using the thin cracks in the face above.
	Jack Colbeck 25/07/22

★ 9.	Quick Dip	V4
	Sit start with right hand on jug, left hand on square notch. Make a big move to the slot in the crack on the left, feet around the lip then stand up using edges on the face. Continue up the arete above to the upper break.
	Jack Colbeck 06/07/22

10.	Project	V?
	Hard project up the compact wall right of Quick Dip, utilising a very small hold on the face.

11.	Fat Pad	V2
	Sit Start. Climb the short wall to the jug up and right.
	Jack Colbeck 06/07/22

12.	Calcaneus	V1
	Sit start. Straight up shallow groove to upper break.
	Jack Colbeck 06/07/22

13.	Crashing Down	V1
	Sit start, head slightly right using a hole and big protruding pebble and up to gain the exploding crack above which is climbed to the upper break.
	Jack Colbeck 06/07/22

14.	Limp	V2
	Sit start, move up and right using hole and large protruding pebble. Head up and right on good holds past the rust-coloured patches to finishing holds. Either traverse off right or reverse and jump off.
	Jack Colbeck 30/07/22

15.	Warmup Traverse	V1
	Sit start as for Limp. Traverse left with feet just above the lip all the way to the corner.
	Jack Colbeck 25/07/22

Fort Direction bouldering

Fort Direction