Mars Arch and Cape Queen Elizabeth

	Arch 45-60min. Cape Queen Elizabeth 1.5-2 hours
	mixed sun and shade
	slabby dolerite

Acknowledgement

Phil Robinson

Introduction

Mars Arch is a spectacular dolerite arch below Mars Bluff on the beach at the western side of Moorina Bay, set out from the cliff. The base of the dolerite cliff behind the arch has good bouldering on solid rock to a few metres in height as does the arch but the bluff to the west of the contact is made of horrendously loose mudstone.
No climbing has been recorded before this guide at Cape Queen Elizabeth as the rock is renowned to be atrocious.

History

Bouldering at the Arch has been an activity for at least 15-20 years and four routes (to Feb. 2024) are recorded on thesarvo's bouldering guide to Bruny Island
See http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Bruny+Island+bouldering

At Cape Queen Elizabeth, a 30-40m slabby dolerite cliff of reasonable quality has been developed from 2021 by Phil Robinson

Access

Mars Arch Access

A popular walking track leads to Cape Queen Elizabeth via Mars Bluff and Mars Arch. A 30 min. walk from the car park brings one to a junction and signpost, to either go over the Bluff or along the beach, the latter much the quickest way. At low tide it is often possible to a walk around on the sand east to the arch, only 5-10mins. away. Even If the tide is up one can usually enjoy a rocky scramble dodging the waves to reach the Arch. Though longer, over the Bluff is only 10 min. walk to the top. Once over the hill and down on the beach head back west to the arch.

Dave Humphries on the first ascent of the seaward side of the arch. Photo Jon Nermut 2005

Claire Hewer bouldering on the cliffs behind the Mars Arch
Photos: Kim Robinson 2007

Cape Queen Elizabeth

	1.5-2 hours
	mixed sun and shade
	slabby dolerite

Acknowledgement

Phil Robinson

Introduction

Cape Queen Elizabeth itself has very loose and chossy rock but a short distance to the south west is a reasonably solid and featured 30-40m high dolerite cliff with a friendly angle, the top few metres a scramble. The cliff can be viewed from just below the Cape Queen Elizabeth lookout

Access

The walk-in is 1.5 hours from the road plus an extra 15-20min. if the tide compels one to walk over Mars Bluff. However, the track is easy, the views wonderful, the sea stretching south to Antarctica and far to the west are the Southern Ranges and Adamson’s Peak. The atmosphere can be electric with high waves and a large swell. Waves crashing 10-15m up in the air have been encountered at the southern end.
At the eastern end of Moorina Bay the track climbs up the hill for 10 min. then south toward Cape Queen Elizabeth. Just before the track climbs up to the cape, head right toward the top of the cliff 2-3 minutes away. One can either abseil in 30-40m from the metal stake buried deep and back it up with slings around low bushes or scramble down to the south for a shorter rap of 10-15m. If the sea is low, follow the ramp further to an easy climb of a few metres down to the shore platform. The left side of the cliff is low with good rock, the right side is loose, chossy and worthless. The top few metres of the cliff lay back, grassy and loose so care is needed. Rap bolts would be useful to avoid topping out. Nevertheless, as it is there is some good middle grade climbing. Very much a trad. adventure type cliff.

1.	Low Swell Access	6m	2
	Scramble down from the clifftops south for an easy climb to the shore platform when the tide and swell are low.

2.	Where there's a will	6m	6
	The short hand crack a few metres right of the low swell access. The crack to a ledge and on to the top.

3	Easy Exit	6m	2
	Further R an easy climb traverses L to the slabs.

4.	The Staircase	14m	3
	Next right is a narrow and sharp broken staircase of rock, surprisingly solid but not recommended for a downclimb.
	P.Robinson 25/01/24

5	Picnic Crack	15m	7
	The obvious broken crack on the right.
	P.Robinson 27/10/21

6	Picnic Wall	20m	14
	Start as for Picnic Crack. Climb up the easy crack for 10m. until one can move R onto the nose. Follow the weakness to a ledge and up to the top.
	P.Robinson 27/10/21

★ 7

Far Horizons

20m

19

The line right of the Picnic Crack cleavage.
A bouldery start with sparse pro to reach the crack system. Follow this until five metres from the top and take the short traverse line R onto the face before climbing directly to the top. Alternatively continue up the crack. A 10 m. scramble follows to the cliff top.

P.Robinson 30/01/22 T.R.

★ 8	The Groove	35m	project
	Start R of Far Horizons in a corner. Climb easily to a ledge and take the groove on the left (crux, unclimbed) to a pleasant hand crack. Follow the crack which trends slightly left until it thins and up the face above. Take care on the last 10m, an easy grassy scramble to the top.
	P.Robinson project

★ 9

Sea to Sky

35m

18

An absorbing crack line in an atmospheric location. On a sunny day blue sky and sea stretch as far as the eye can see.
Start on a large ledge a few metres above the sea at the base of a corner a few metres R of Far Horizons. Easily up the corner, as for The Groove, to steep layback moves leading to a crack line, finishing up a grassy scramble at the top to belay.

P,Robinson 22/03/21

10

The Wall

35m

16

The wall, between ‘Sea to Sky’ and ‘White Thunder’.
To start, climb the first few metres of Sea to Sky to a large ledge or the cracks on the short wall to the right of it.
Climb directly up the middle of the face. The wall finishes with a 9m scramble to the top.

P.Robinson 30/01/22

★ 11

White Thunder

40m

16

The first route on the cliff. An obvious line in the middle of the cliff, broken by two ledges. A worthwhile route, the upper part a technical finger crack.
Accessed and cleaned by abseil on the 1st ascent although there is little to belay to at the top. A metal star picket was hammered in and a low bush used with a sling around the base branches. Rap 40m to sea level passing two ledges on the way. The bottom few metres are wet in high seas.
Climb the crack in the short wall left of the chimney to a ledge, then 10m up the broken groove or the crack on the R wall to another ledge. Follow the pleasant crack to a loose slope 5m below the top. Take care.

P. Robinson, C. Rathbone 20/01/21

12	Calm before Chaos	37m	15
	A few metres right of White Thunder is a wall with enjoyable slab climbing followed by a chossy stepped cliff. Although much loose rock has been dislodged in the top half, extreme care is needed. The route goes up the middle of the wall and could do with rap bolts where the wall ends after 20m. The clean crack at the bottom on the L has also been climbed (gr.9).
	P.Robinson 25/01/24

Mars Bluff and Moorina Bay