Mount Brown

	20-60 minutes
	Afternoon sun
	Wave sculpted dolerite, 10-200m

Acknowledgement

by Marcel Jackson and Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets.

Introduction

The cliffs around Mt. Brown provide a substantial range of climbing in an exciting setting. Like half of Tassie's southern coastline, the rock is dolerite, but despite its location directly between Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar, there is not a column to be seen. Huge weathered sheets of featured rock form towering overhanging walls on the west side, while to the east the same formations make even larger slabs. The steep walls have a heap of potential for some really fantastic cranking, and have already yielded a healthy harvest of classic sport climbs. Climbs of most grades, styles and angles exist in relative abundance, but arguably the best aspect about this area is the atmosphere. There are few experiences as pleasant as sitting on the warm rocks at Land's End in the late afternoon sun watching the Gannets dive. Even the evil 170m cave cliff of Mt. Brown glows orange and succumbs to the magic. On the other hand, there are few experiences as dramatic and ferocious as the Paradiso when the sea gets up.

Access

Turn left onto Safety Cove Road, just past the turn off to Port Arthur (about 200m past the petrol station / store). Drive to the very end of this road and park at the Remarkable Cave car park. A signpost on the left marks the start of a new formed track leading towards Crescent Bay and Mt Brown.
Access to Parrot Shelf: walk along the track for about 25 minutes and leave it at the far end of a longer section of duckboard, just past a sandy creek. From here, cut down right towards the shoreline the and follow the coast south around to above the Parrot Shelf Cliffs. Access the base of theses climbs is from the southern end.
Access to the Paradiso: for the Paradiso, continue on along the shore slabs past the Parrot Shelf for another 5 minutes. A short downclimb is required to reach the base of the cliffs - care must be taken not to fall in, or let your gear roll into the sea. Abseiling in is another option.
Access to Dauntless Point: continue on the main track from the end of the duckboard, past the sandy creek, until the track starts to veer left. Head a little to the right of the saddle between Mt. Brown and Dauntless, near the base of the hill. From here, head up to the saddle with easy but scrubby walking along the eastern edge of the cliffs to the highest point. The cliff edge may be followed the whole way to the end of the point, with a rough track providing access through scrubby sections (about 15 more minutes). It is also possible (and less scrubby) to branch off the main Mount Brown track when it starts to steepen (just after the triangular fork) and follow the contour around to the Dauntless/Brown col. Alternatively from the top of the Paradiso follow the occasional cairn up and right across the top of the Paradiso before ascending more directly to gain the top just north of the Dauntless abseil.
Access to Mount Brown Main Face: Follow the main walking track to the new signposted summit track. About 50m from the old trig station, turn right, (south-west), and head towards the highest point at the cliff edge (about 1 hour from the car to the rap station).
For access details to other areas, refer to individual crag descriptions.

GPS

Code	Description	UTM Zone	UTM Easting	UTM Northing	Height	Lat	Long
MBR010	DNA Land; Top of Stem Cell	55G	569331	5216888	32	-43.19760	147.85334
MBR020	Parrot Shelf; Top of Geronimo	55G	569835	5216469	22	-43.20133	147.85959
MBR030	40 Degrees South; Slab where you turn off to go to anchors	55G	569994	5216028	0	-43.20528	147.86161
MBR040	40 Degrees South; Rap anchors	55G	569966	5215989	0	-43.20564	147.86127
MBR050	Time Goes Bye; Rap anchors	55G	570343	5215926	168	-43.20617	147.86591
MBR051	I've Heard it all Before; Rap anchors	55G	570358	5215911	170	-43.20630	147.86610
MBR301	No Contest (Hidden Face); Rap Anchors	55G	570826	5215818	150	-43.20710	147.87187
MBR052	Treading Water Rap Route: Rap Anchors	55G	570249	5216013		-43.205386	147.864753
MBR053	Treading Water: Top of Route DBB	55G	570312	5215973		-43.205743	147.865534
MBR054	Bidding Time: Top of Route DBB	55G	570334	5215937		-43.206066	147.865810

Show in Google Earth

DNA Land

This small area has some good climbs similar to the Cataract Gorge and is largely unaffected by swell. The cliff is found just along from the southern entrance to the Maingon Blowhole, facing Cape Raoul. There are no lower-offs, so use the boulder at the top for an anchor. Approach and descend easily from the south.

★★ 1.	Gene Therapy	12m	23	4Þ
	The flared crack passing a small roof at half height, past 4 U-bolts.
	Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, Feb 2003.

★ 2.	Double Helix	12m	23	4Þ
	The double-sided square arête, starting over a roof. 4 U-bolts.
	Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.

★★ 3.	Stem Cell	10m	26	4Þ
	Thin bridging up the blank corner past 4 U-bolts.
	Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.

★ 4.	Genetic Code	10m	22
	Climb the L facing flake crack on small cams to a U-bolt near the top.
	Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, Feb 2003.

The Parrot Shelf Cliffs

Of all the cliffs climbed at Mt. Brown, the Parrot Shelf cliffs are among the smallest. However, they offer quick access and a good collection of quality little routes in a pleasant position. The cliff is in two sections, with the lower, LH half being susceptible to waves in rougher weather. You can carefully down-climb to access the lower section, or alternatively head down the loose gully above Geronimo and rap-off the anchor from the step.

★★ 5.	The Devil & the Deep Blue Sea	30m	24	8Þ
	This climb traverses diagonally from R to L across the massive sea cave at the Lend of the Parrot Shelf. An amazing climb in a mind blowing position, that looks three grades harder. Climb the first few metres of Low Road and then traverse out L with the hardest move in the scariest position, following bolts to a BB. You will need a few hand sized cams for the belay and the first few moves but then it's all bolts. It's quite easy to reverse the climb to retrieve your draws.
	Nick Hancock, Jan 2012,

★★ 6.	Prince of Darkness	25m	18
	Start as for Devil & the Deep Blue Sea. Traverse to the third bolt then head straight up the thin seams on surprisingly good holds. Continue up the crack then head left out on to the face above the roof on amazing jugs, avoiding the bad rock above. Take a standard single rack with doubles of hand sized cams. An absolutely amazing adventure for the grade.
	Danny Wade and Simon Bischoff, Dec 2018

★ 7.	Black Fish	20m	23	DWS
	A nice deep-water solo with a heady crux at about 8 metres with excellent movement and a safe fall. A wet hold below the roof and a slightly crozzly top out detracts from the quality somewhat. Traverse horizontally from the main ledge on good holds till you get bellow the hanging chimney. Head up the cracks to powerful moves going left below the roof. Pull into the Hanging chimney and finish up the easier cracks above.
	Simon Bischoff Dec 2018

★★ 8.	Low Road	18m	16
	Clean rock, good pro, marvellous position. Destined for permanent classic status. Start at the extreme L end of the lower ledge, just on the edge of the sea cave. Step L off the ledge into the crack and then continue to the top.
	S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, Nov 1994.

★ 9.	Lost Sheep	18m	12
	The first crack system R of Low Road.
	G.Jordan, Sep 1996.

10.	Better Than It Looks, Three Stars	18m	16
	You'd have to be suspicious of a name like that! Crack system with three small roofs, 2m R of Lost Sheep. A bit thrutchy.
	N.Duhig, G.Jordan, Sep 1996.

★ 11.	Wanker Diver	15m	12
	Climbs the juggy wall 10m R of Low Road. Continue up slab when jugs run out.
	G.Phillips, S.Ford, Jul 1995.

★ 12.	Pib and Pog	15m	16
	Up the superb pockets and flakes 3m L of Geronimo. Cruxes are at the ground and at the rooflet.
	N.Duhig, G.Jordan, Sep 1996.

★★ 13.	Geronimo	12m	20	3Þ
	The steep, eye-bolted wall. Excellent climbing up the overhanging wall on large waco jugs. Climb past a cam and 3 eye-bolts to finish at the ledge with rap station.
	S.Edwards, R.Eberhard, G.Phillips, Jul 1995.

★★ 14.	First Launch	12m	20
	This lies 3m R of Geronimo. Thin face moves to the horizontal at 2.5m. Continue up shallow corner to large ledge with rap station.
	G.Phillips, S.Ford, Jul 1995.

15.	Diller	12m	15
	At the extreme L of the upper ledge, several large blocks can be seen precariously balanced at the top of the cliff (update: these blocks fell off a couple years after the first ascent). Climb the arête below on its L face, passing the balanced blocks very lightly at the top. Not to be attempted by heavy people.
	M.Stuver, J.Corbett, Jul 1995.

16.	Open Cut	12m	15
	The next line to the R of Diller. Jam up on the L then bridge and exit via the narrow crack out R.
	P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 1994.

★★ 17.	Lay Line	12m	21
	An aesthetic line. Takes the arête (climbed on the right face) 1.5m right of Open Cut. Balancey moves to good runners at the horizontal, then up the arête and hairline crack (crux) with very small wires. Finish pleasantly past the roof on the L.
	M.Jackon, H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 1994.

★★ 18.	Black Cockatoo	12m	18
	Another good climb. The thin shallow line immediately R of Lay Line.
	H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Jul 1995.

19.	Cirrostratus	20m	17
	Climb the first 3 metres of Octopussy, then hand traverse L along obvious horizontal crack. Finish traversing at Open Cut and climb this to finish.
	D.James, L.Rollins, Mar 1996.

★★ 20.	The Gift	12m	20
	Arête L of Octopussy.
	Ben Raymond, Mike Raine, 9 Feb 2004.

★ 21.	Octopussy	12m	14
	The prominent thin chimney between Black Cockatoo and Polly. Better than it looks.
	R.Eberhard, S.Edwards, Aug 1995.

★ 22.	Do Worms Eat Finger Tape?	14m	18
	Climb the gently overhanging scoop just R of Octopussy then finish up easier crack above.
	Mike Raine, Ben Raymond, 9 Feb 2004.

★ 23.	No Stove, No Key, No Telli!	14m	20
	Climb the narrow face just L of Polly.
	Ben Sutton, Hat' Grey, 9 Feb 2004.

24.	Polly	14m	8
	To the R of Octopussy is a narrow corner facing R. Climb up the crack and continue to the top with excellent pro.
	P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 1994.

25.	Chimera	14m	21
	Start L of True Grit. Takes a buttress with a 0.5m roof at 3m, finishing on detached blocks (large boulder just back from the top of the climb, serves to locate it). Thin move to roof with jug above the lip. Continue past breaks to thin crack (medium rock to #1 RPs), finishing L over the final blocks.
	David Gray and Nick Hancock, June 2000.

★ 26.	True Grit	14m	17
	About 5m R of Polly there is a rough, L-facing flake up a face. Climb up to the flake (crux), step R into its curving continuation, then finish direct.
	B.McMahon, S.Hamilton, Nov 1994.

★ 27.	Dog Barf Road	14m	19
	Climb the scoop just R of True Grit, finishing as for True Grit.
	Ben Raymond, Mike Raine, 9 Feb 2004.

★★ 28.	Brimful of Asher	14m	21
	Between Dog Barf Road and Kelpie is a fine face guarded by an overhang at 5 meters. Start below the center of the overhang beneath a large undercut hold. Boulder up to the overhang and surmount it boldly. Move up to twin horizontal breaks then make tricky moves up, then L to attain a standing position on small holds on the blunt arete. The top is just out of reach and gaining it provides a tricky crux. Finish slightly L.
	Mike Raine, Ben Raymond, 9 Feb 2004.

29.	Kelpie	14m	16
	To the R of True Grit is a corner with a slightly imposing finger hand crack for its second half. Climb this (it is a little loose at the top).
	H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 1994.

30.	New	14m	20
	D Grey, Jun 2000.

31.	Cracker	14m	13
	10m to the R of Kelpie is a face with a steep overhang at about half height. Climb this then turn the bulge with ease. Continue up loose rock to the top.
	M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 1994.

★ 32.	Indigo	12m	16
	Climb the face 3m L of Zephyr to a horizontal break at 1/3 height. Follow thin vertical crack to the top.
	R.Eberhard, C.Phillips, Jul 1995.

33.	Zephyr	12m	17
	At the RH end of the cliffs is a protruding nose-like feature about 2m up. Climb the pock-marked face to the L of this.
	R.Eberhard, C.Phillips, Jul 1995.

Around the corner right of ‘Zephyr’ is a small (10-12m) cliff facing the Paradiso, although the latter is not visible from here. Easier at the top, it is a handy beginners cliff and can still be climbed on when the swell is really high, a not uncommon occurrence. It has been climbed on before, but these descriptions and grades are from Phil Robinson's ascents in May 2009.

34.	20m	20
	The corner around to the L, difficulty increasing with height. The short crack left of the corner at the top (16) is also worth a look.

35.	10m	16
	An enjoyable arête

36.	17
	The face to the L of the crack, difficult in the middle.

37.	10m	14
	The crack.

38.	10m	18
	A nice face climb, although broken by ledges.

39.	10m	11
	The crack to the R.

40.	10m	10
	The next crack right.

41.	10m	11
	The ledges and chimney to the R.

42.	10m	17
	The face and thin line to the R with an awkward start.

43.	10m	19
	Four meters right of #34 is a bouldery seam which is gained by a short broken corner.
	M. Hitchcock and L. Bussolini.

44.	10m	16
	Starts as per #35 but takes the diagonal seam rightwards across the blank face.
	M. Hitchcock and L. Bussolini.

★ 45.	DONT PANIC	8m	21	DWS
	The short attractive arete on the left side of the sea cave
	Danny Wade Dec 2018

The Paradiso

★ 46.	Mixed Groceries	17	3Þ
	The bolted arête to the L of Shock Wave. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off.
	S.Young, Jan 2007.

★ 47.	Aftershock	13m	19	5Þ
	The steepness is unrelenting, but so are the jugs. Left of Shock Wave. Clip the first anchor from the block on the left, then go back down to start the climb directly below the anchor. Almost as good as the yellow in the gym (that is graded 13!).
	Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni, Mar 2022.

★★ 48.	Shock Wave	13m	21	5Þ
	This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route.
	R.Parkyn, Aug 1995.

★ 49.	Lost Souls	13m	20
	Starts 4m to the R of Shock Wave and follows the overhanging corner, protection is available but hard to arrange. A testing climb up an obvious (but a little loose) feature.
	B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 1994.

50.	Unzip	13m	16	Þ
	Originally climbed on natural gear, now retro-bolted. Climb the easier angled arête on less than perfect rock.
	H. and M. Jackson, May 1994 (Bolted version FA: unknown)

★ 51.	High Noon	10m	17	4Þ
	Between Unzip and Sponge Bob climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route.
	G.Phillips, Oct 1995.

★ 52.	Sponge Bob	12m	22	Þ
	Start in the wide crack R of High Noon (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB.
	E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.

★ 53.	Winkle	13m	15
	Takes the chimney R of Sponge Bob. Very pleasant, easy climbing.
	B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 1994.

To the R of Winkle the cliff becomes broken, allowing easy (but not trivial) access to the top of the cliff. After about 30m more routes begin.

54.	Borogove	18m	15
	Step over the L edge of the puddle into an easy, R trending corner on excellent rock. Climb this to a ledge half-height, then continue up the holey and slightly overhanging arête headwall above on jugs.
	M.Jackson, B.McMahon, Sep 1994.

★ 55.	Stolopin	20m	17
	Crank up the initially difficult and steep face just R of the puddle - good gear at ledge. After the ledge at half height, either continue straight up the face, or bolder and better, up the hanging corner on the overhanging arête to the R.
	H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Sep 1994.

At this point the cliff turns a slight corner and immediately becomes overhanging. This is where the fun starts.

★★ 56.	Super Charger	20m	23	8Þ
	First line on the overhanging wall. Higher up take the right facing corner then left out of that to finish up the steep juggy wall.
	G.Phillips, Sep 1995.

★★ 57.	Belly Of The Beasts	23m	22
	About 4m to the R of Super Charger is a weakness up the overhanging face with a downward-pointing horizontal chimney feature at half height. Climb this with the crux entering the stance under the roof chimney with an excellent but bold lay back finish (4 camelot useful).
	S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Nov 1994.

★ 58.	Captain Napalm	20m	25	Þ
	The line 2m L of Bagpipe.
	S.Edwards, May 1997.

★ 59.	Bagpipe Original	20m	25	6Þ
	3m R of Belly of the Beasts is an overhanging corner. Up this and through the roof (crux) past 6 bolts to a lower-off. A #1 BD cam goes in between the last bolt and the anchor and reduces the runout.
	S.Edwards, Dec 1996.

★★ 60.	Bagpipe Remix	20m	26	6Þ
	This direct version of the previous goes up the face 2m R of the corner to join at the roof. "A much better way to do the route," he says. Runout at the top but takes an optional red or green Camalot.
	S.Edwards, May 1997.

61.	Master of Disaster	V3	(Stand)
	Not a climb but a traverse. Start by bridging in the Bagpipe corner then traverse R along the base of the wall to finish at Expendable Youth. "To be continued," he says.
	S.Edwards, Aug 97.

★ 62.	Fashion Holiday	26
	An extension to the Master of Disaster Traverse. Continue past the beginning of Expendable youth via quite a good boulder problem. Ends at Hit and Run.
	Simon Bischoff Dec 2022

★★ 63.	Thunder Birds Are Go	25m	24	9Þ
	Climb steeply up the face to the third bolt, take a rest then blast up the steep overhang to the top.
	S.Edwards, Aug 1995.

★ 64.	Kraken	25m	24	Þ
	Starts 2m R of Thunder Birds. Climb past 2 bolts and follow the crack to the large ledge. Continue up and R into Offender and finish up this (the route originally finished as for Thunder Birds, but the described finish is better).
	R.Eberhard, Oct 1995.

★★ 65.	Sac de la Douche	145m	25	9Þ
	Sustained climbing L of Offender. Up and R past roof. Clip on U-bolt on offender, head up and L through bulge. Continue up and L onto tricky headwall guarding the chains. (Could only be 25m by mainland measurements)
	Simon Young, Feb 2013

★★★ 66.	Offender Of The Faith	25m	24	10Þ
	Another superb steep and sustained route about 5m R of Kraken. Climb to the roof at 4m then continue to the top. Fully bolted. Well known to be 25, but for historical reasons the grade refuses to stick.
	R.Parkyn, Oct 1995.

★★ 67.	Southern Exposure	25m	25	Þ
	Just L of Sultan of Sweat, past a mixture of FH and U-bolts.
	J. Bresnehan, 2007.

★★★ 68.	Sultan of Sweat	35m	25	11Þ
	Brilliant climbing the whole way, with the crux being the roof at 4m. Don’t relax after the final overhang; the final rising traverse R is thin and technical, and will try to spit you off with the chains in sight. Likely Tassie's most onsighted 25.
	Sam Edwards.

★★ 69.	No Name	30m	26	Þ
	The line immediately to the R of Sultan of Sweat. Move slightly L just above the final roof to join Sultan of Sweat, then finish as for that. Without doubt Tasmania's most onsighted 26.
	Garry Phillips, Nov 2009.

★★★ 70.

Snooze and You Lose

28m

27

Þ

Super good. Climb Expendable Youth to half height, then head L and through the roof and up to chains on Sultan of Sweat (staying right of 'No Name' 26).

A single #1 cam reduces the somewhat runout face beforethe roof.

G.Phillips, 2007.

★★★ 71.	Expendable Youth	27m	27	Þ
	There's no natural gear on this one. Be careful lowering off on a 50m rope. A deservedly popular entry-level offering at the grade.
	S.Edwards, 1998.

72.	Project		Þ
	Project - Garry Phillips

73.	Smash & Grab Project		Þ
	Open Project, Smash and Grab Extension. Probably 32+

★★ 74.	Expendable Amnesia	40m	28	Þ
	Link-up. Long and sustained. Climb all of Expendable Youth and then finish up Retrograde Amnesia. Use a long draw on the chains of Expendable and skip a few bolts on Retrograde to reduce rope drag.
	Garry Phillips Jan 2010.

★★★ 75.	Retrograde Amnesia	35m	25	13Þ
	Another classic route. Climb the juggy rock to a rest, then climb on the R. Trend L under a diagonal roof to a groove. Thin moves up this to finish. Clip bolts 5-7 on long draws (or use a second rope). Used to be 26.
	Nick Hancock & Ben Ridder, Apr 2004.

★★ 76.	Hit and Run	27m	25	Þ
	Another classic route, would be 3 stars except for the ledge at 1/2 height takes away from the climb a little. Start up Retrograde Amnesia for a couple of moves before heading R, following hangers up steep wall. Clip one U (long runner), before powering up exposed, techo headwall. Finishes at Expendable Youth anchors. To be continued...
	Simon Young, Feb 2011

★★★ 77.	Captain Jack	20m	29/30	6Þ
	The line of U Bolts that takes the blocky roof to the R of Retrograde Amnesia. Bloody awesome! Immaculate crimping into a slopey boulder sequence right under the roofs. Can be climbed direct at the fifth bolt if you're quite tall with a big lockoff. The shorties sequence is traversing into Number One and stepping back left to clip bolt #5. Finishes at DBB.
	Andy "The Pirate" Richardson, Jan 2010

★★★ 78.	Total Recall	35m	27	12Þ
	A magnificent route that climbs the massive leaning wall about 20m R of Expendable Youth. Climb an overhanging layback corner to a desperate low percentage move R under the roof. Pull L over this then climb straight up, until a move R at the top. Very cruxy and considered by some to be harder than Captain Jack.
	Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.

★★ 79.	Number One	25m	26	Þ
	Starts as for Total Recall, then head L at roof and up to bolt on the ledge. From here, move R and finish as for Total Recall. Can be done just on bolts, or if you like your sanity take #1 and #2.5 Friends for the top. Not actually 26 but so few can repeat it it's hard to say what grade it is.
	G.Phillips, 2007.

★★★ 80.	Partial Recall	35m	25
	An easier way to climb the wonderful upper wall of Total Recall, by avoiding the desperate moves under the roof. Climb the initial overhanging groove of Man's Machine, past the first three bolts, place a #0.4 BD and/or #0.5 BD Cam on long draws then go L over the roof to climb most of Total Recall.

★ 81.	Man's Machine	30m	21	10Þ
	The first route after the cliff changes direction, just R of Total Recall. Start up the steep groove, past this onto easy ramp. Layaway up to small roof. Over this then up, stepping R for a few moves before delicately picking your way to the top.
	Simon Young, 5 Feb 2012

82.	Random People	15m	24	Þ
	Near the start of Total Recall the cliff changes direction, this route is about 20m to the R. Follow FHs through rooflet down low (crux) then easily up featured face above past another 3 FHs and a #3 cam slot to a double ring lower-off. The crux is quite out of keeping with the rest of the route.
	Neil Monteith, 3 Jan 2006. (One rest due to slimy rock; has since been freed by another party)

★ 83.

Dominion

40m

18

The first route on this section of cliff was a ground-up adventure into the unknown. Significant run-outs were involved but the subsequent bolting of both Random People and Man’s Machine has retro-bolted significant sections of this climb.
Start just R of Random People at an arête-like feature, at the RH end of the relatively short overhanging wall below the major corner feature of the cliff (where it changes direction).
1. 25m 17	Climb the arête (crux) then follow the R trending ramp to a ledge. Trend back L up the crack and ledge system until the juggy rock near the corner is reached (ie the bolts of Man’s Machine about 5m below the roof).
2. 15m 18	Move up R, across the face to reach the hollow at the R end of the roof. Scary moves through right of roof leads to easier ground leading left to the anchors on Man’s Machine. Descend from anchors.

M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Nov 1994 (alt).

★ 84.

Six Bells Chime

25m

16

Between Total Recall, and K2 a R-wards tending diagonal can be seen about 12m up the cliff. Start immediately below the start of this. Climb the face (the first move is the hardest) to the base of the diagonal then continue along this to finish at the ledge. Abseil from anchors (K2).

M and P Jackson Nov 1994

★★ 85.

K2

55m

21

Þ

1.	25m 21 Fantastic rock. Follow the bolts to the ledge (the stars are for this pitch).
2.	30m 21 Not fantastic rock. Up to the break and then leftwards and up to next ledge. Quit whilst you're ahead and rap the route (two 30m raps) or one extra bolt gives access to the top.

G Phillips and A Lewis Mar 2010

Below and to the R of the aforementioned ledge is a R facing corner with two crack systems, one on the L wall, one on the R (outward facing) wall.

★ 86.	Blue Lotus	30m	16
	Takes the L line, moving R into the corner at the top to avoid a large, loose block. Abseil from the ledge as for K2.
	M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Jun 1996.

★ 87.	Chasing The Dragon	30m	18
	Climbs the R line. Start about 2m R of the corner, climb a R facing flake which tends L to the line. Follow the line with small wires for pro, past a slight deviation L on the face, to regain the crack system after a metre or so. Continue up to the ledge. Descend from anchors at left hand end (K2).
	S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, Nov 1994.

★★★ 88.	Too Tall Oxen	30m	22	11Þ
	Start just R of Chasing the Dragon, just before a water funnel. Climb the overhanging wall to DBB. A good warm-up for the harder climbs.
	Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges, Dec 2003.

From here the ledge drops away into a water funnel (which in bad weather can be quite dangerous) and rises on the other side to a big ledge.

★ 89.	Vena Cava	40m	18
	This vital line resisted a number of attempts by different parties before a sneaky solution saw it go easily. The very overhanging corner between Chasing the Dragon and Ilkley Roof, starting at the LH side of the water funnel. Avoid offwidth at base gracefully (inevitably a little run out without a five/six Camalot), then follow steep corner. Awkward exit up headwall to belay at large ledge. Lower from slings.
	Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Oct 1999.

★★★ 90.	Ready, Steady, Go	18m	26	Þ
	The over-hanging arête to the R of Too Tall Oxen. Fully bolted.
	Garry Phillips, Dec 2010

★★ 91.	Ilkley Roof	25m	20
	Takes the striking corner roof feature on the outward facing nose L of Aquaphobia. A second, runnerless, pitch can be done.
	B.McMahon, J.Fisher, 1996.

★ 92.	Team Caffeine	20m	24	Þ
	The line of bolts to the L of Aquaphobia.
	Garry Phillips, Feb 2004.

★ 93.	Show Time	25m	26	Þ
	Climb Aquaphobia to the start of the traverse, then head direct. Sustained.
	Garry Phillips, Feb 2004.

★★★ 94.	Aquaphobia	25m	22	Þ
	This route starts up the L side of the brilliant, R-facing wall and then makes a memorable rising traverse over to the R side. Power up to the fourth bolt, then do a delicate traverse R and up to a layback crack, finishing at a rap station.
	S.Edwards, Sep 1995.

95.	Don't Ride The Wild Wave	25m	22	Þ
	This climb starts 5m R of Aquaphobia (on the same face). Climb carefully to the second bolt then traverse up and L to finish up Aquaphobia.
	G.Phillips, Sep 1995.

★ 96.	Deep Blue	20m	25	Þ
	The line of bolts to the R of Aquaphobia. Features a hard start and a tricky finish.
	Cam Veal, Feb 2004.

★ 97.	Carthage	28m	18
	The bow shaped corner at the R of the beautiful face. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty with the crux midway up the overhanging section. Step left to anchors of deep blue.
	H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 1994.

98.	Ad Parnassum	30m	16
	About 10m R of Carthage is another crack line (just L of the arête). Climb this, starting at the very base of the crack, with the crux passing through the small roof. Take care of the large loose block which must be passed to enter the final corner crack. Take tat to abseil from horn on the bushy ledge.
	M.Jackson, B.McMahon, Oct 1994.

99.	Sometimes I don't get sarcasm	30m	22
	Ramble up the featured slab and take the finger crack through the overhang left of Ad Parnassum. I thought it was fine but no one else did. Tat abseil from horn on the bushy ledge.

★★★ 100.

Déjà Vu

35m

28

13Þ

Nick’s 10 hours of bolting at the end of 2003, and numerous fear and wave frustrated attempts, finally paid off. One of the most spectacular climbs anywhere! From an isolated ledge 5m R of Ad Parnassum, start at a single bolt belay & climb boldly rightwards up to a ledge in an awesome position on the arête. Hard moves above lead into a finger crack, and another opportunity to mess up, before more reasonable climbing to a TBB.

Note. As of 2017 a bunch of holds came off around the crux, however the route has been re-climbed at 28.

Nick Hancock, Feb 2008.

★★ 101.	Aide-mémoire	32m	24	14Þ
	Start down R of Déjà Vu on the (sometimes) sea-washed platform. Hard moves straight up a thin seam to join the traverse of Déjà Vu. At the fourth bolt move horizontally right on crimps then up to the next bolt (as for Déjà Vu). Then climb straight up to a step L before finishing up the right-trending groove at a TBB. A 60m rope just makes it back to the starting point (but not necessarily if you simply abseil straight down from the top as that can miss the pedestal that you start from).
	Nick & Heather Hancock and Quinn Griggs Feb 2010.

Hades

Hades. This is not a climb but a cave. The huge mouth can be easily seen from the ledge beneath these last few climbs, but if you have time it's very rewarding to access its southern side (for example when visiting Land's End and the Furnace, or when swimming) since the slabs can be followed inside for about 50m. From here, deep in the bowels of the beast, it's apparent that the cave connects to the east side of the point (presumably the cave at Inferno) since water can be seen entering from around a corner at the back.

★★ 102.	Awake My Soul	60m	25
	Access: Head out as if going to the Paradiso, but instead of dropping down to the Paradiso continue for 10 mins more up along the top of the cliff. A faint track marks the way. Bolts are located on slabs above Hades on the Paradiso side, facing Cape Raoul (cairned) and are just as the cliff reaches the highest point. All belays fully bolted. One 60m rope is enough to rap both pitches. Ample bolts provide an easy escape if need be. 1. 30m. 25. Tricky sequence off the belay leads up the face on slopey holds (crux). After no-hands rest head R and up to DBB (fully bolted). 2. 30m. 19. Bolts lead up the face till the crack accepts gear. Continue to top. Rack: 14 quick draws (a couple should be alpine draws). Singles of .5, .75, 1 Camalot. Doubles of 2 & 3 Camalot.
	Garry Phillips & Simon Young with thanks to Alex Lewis

The next set of climbs are on a cliff (climbers') right of Hades. To access walk either:
a) from The Paradiso, around the top of the cliffs until you can descend to be under them; or
b) from the track to Mt Brown (this is slightly easier). Leave the track about 50 m after its first left-turning zig-zag (this is at about 60 m altitude). From there go upwards for about 50 m to get above scrub and then contour in a SSW direction. This leads to a saddle (about 200 m after leaving the track). Continue in a similar direction along the crest of the ridge leading towards Dauntless Point until you can descent towards Hades (another 300 m from the saddle).

★★ 103.	40 Degrees South	70m	25 (22A0)	Þ
	An out-there location! This climb weaves through the awesome ground above the cave of Hades (the huge cave arch you can look into from the right end of the Paradiso cliffs. Can be done as 22 with some bolt pulling. Walk to the top of the Paradiso and then head up hill and over the top on a small cairned track. From here you can either walk around the back or rap from the anchors to the base of the route. See the access section for GPS co-ordinates. 1. 15m 20. Ascend the interesting face to the belay on top of the pillar. 2. 35m 23. Continue up to the over lap and once over this traverse L and up to belay on large ledge. 3. 15m 25. (Sting in the tail pitch). Climb the interesting water washed over hanging wall above to exit to the R of the roof. Gear Required: Double Ropes, 15 quick draws, helmets and a #05 friend for pitch 2 if you want.
	Garry Phillips and Alan Williams (alt) 27 Dec 2005.

★ 104.	Owen to name	25 m	24
	Owen Gervasoni, Dec 2021.

★★ 105.	Hellfire	22 m	22
	Sustained and fun. Start under the left-leaning overhanging corner (with U's on its right side).
	Roger Parkyn, Dec 2021.

★ 106.	Brimstone	20 m	21
	Follow the U's up and leftwards.
	Roger Parkyn, Dec 2021.

★★ 107.	High & Dry	20	DWS
	Traverse R from Hades to Meadowbank. Beaut climbing at the start with some serious sections at the R end of the Furnace.
	Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.

Holy Smokes Wall

Around the other side of the big cave, as if accessing the multi-pitch 40 Degrees South there is a very steep over hanging wall. There is one route on it.

108.	Holy Smokes	20m	25	Þ
	Follow the very steep over hanging corner to the lip, then the small wall above.
	Garry Phillips, Dec 2005.

The Furnace / Land's End

Land's End is the area of cliffs at the southern tip of Dauntless Point, regardless of whether that cliff is on the east or the west face. The only access to these cliffs is by abseil (or by a very long swim) but do not be put off. The area is very pleasant (particularly in the afternoon) with good, safe ledges (between 1 and 15m from cliff base to edge) well above the waves on most days and some fairly easy climbs enabling a quick escape to the top if necessary.

On the west face, the northern end of Land's End is marked by an abrupt change in the nature of the cliff. The strangely jagged featured rock suddenly switches to a very overhanging wall, the Furnace. While not as tall as The Paradiso, The Furnace is a little steeper still and should receive some more attention in the future.

More northerly still, the ledge at the base becomes a mere hanging footpath, and the cliffs become easier angled and smaller. The one ledge is used to access all climbs on the western face.

109.	Nearing The End	12m	16
	Climb the L facing corner only a meter or so before the northern end of the ledge.
	M.Jackson, A.Vincent, May 1995.

110.	Haliaeetus	12m	15
	10m to the R of Nearing The End is a crack starting in a short, steep corner chimney. Bridge this then follow the easiest line.
	D.James, H.Jackson, May 1995.

A thin ledge exists at the top of the steep wall of the Furnace. Since the climbing above this is only very slightly overhanging, the following two climbs are better done as two pitches each.

111.	Flesh Flounder	25m	24
	This steep climb takes the crack up the middle of The Furnace which has a small, sloping, hanging ledge at about 3m. Steep sustained jamming required. Finish up the easier wall above.
	J.Fisher, P.Steane, May 1995.

★ 112.	Prayers on Fire	25m	21
	Ascends the second last and last full length cracks on the R of The Furnace. Start below the L crack and climb up to the horizontal break. Traverse to the R crack and climb this until the L crack can be gained to finish the overhanging wall. Finish up the easier wall above. Originally graded 24 on first ascent...
	M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Feb 1995.

★★ 113.	Throne of Blood	30m	18
	On the furthest R of The Furnace a short, steep layaway crack leads quickly to a slab above. Climb this then traverse diagonally R across the slab, to access the steep hanging corner high on the R (to the R of Pale Fire). Climb this corner to finish (easier climbing in an exciting position).
	M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Sep 1994.

★ 114.	Pale Fire	28m	19
	Starts just to the R of Throne of Blood and heads straight up the short corner, onto the slab and on up the steep L-tending corner above (to the L of Throne of Blood). Exit the top of this out L onto the face (crux) then up to finish.
	B.McMahon, M.Jackson, May 1995.

★ 115.	Burnout	30m	20
	About 5m L of Stone Biter. Head L up a R-facing wall then around arête to the steep slab. Up to ledge then more easily to top.
	M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 1994.

★★★ 116.	Stone Biter	30m	16
	At the top of the cliff and about 10m to the L of the upper corner of Serrator is a chimney feature, overhanging about 45° rightward. Climb grooves below this to ledge then into the chimney. The brilliant crux is stepping out onto the airy arête to exit the blocked chimney, 1m below the top. Highly recommended.
	B.McMahon, M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Oct 1994.

★ 117.	Serrator	30m	17
	The clean, upper corner of this climb finishes at the last piece of the point which can be easily accessed by foot and can be distinguished by its fawn (instead of blue-grey) coloured rock. 1. 20m. Start in the corner roughly below this. Climb the corner then back L up groove finally to a difficult mantelshelf onto the big ledge. 2. 15m. Up the enjoyable corner.
	P.Jackson, M.Jackson (alt), Sep 1994.

★ 118.	Carrighfergus	13m	17
	Climbs the pleasant face about 5 metres L of Sinkiller. The wall is steeper and more difficult than it appears.
	B.McMahon, M.Jackson, May 1995.

★ 119.	Sinkiller	13m	20
	A short, very overhanging corner is the dominant feature of the R most part of this side of the cliffs. Climb easily up slabby rock to a ledge, then tackle the very overhanging (for Tasmania) corner.
	M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 1994.

The following climbs are on the east face of Lands End and can be accessed by abseil only (this is easily done from the rocks at the southern most end of the point). Once down, one can scramble around without too much trouble, but no extensive ledges exist. This area has a wonderfully unique atmosphere.

★★ 120.	Marlin	30m	14
	An excellent hanging groove leads up to the ledge at which Pale Fire and Sinkiller finish (one can scramble down to this). Start below the groove, at the south eastern tip of the whole point. Climb up to the groove, enter it (crux) and climb it (trickier than it looks). A strong line.
	H.Jackson, D.James, Jun 1995.

★ 121.	Selkie	30m	13
	This climb takes the line down which the western abseil goes. Climb easily up through the small roof at about 8m then on to the top. The climbing is pleasant although the protection is sparse.
	P.Jackson, M.Jackson, Sep 1994.

122.	Seasick	35m	13
	Takes a wandering line around the roofs to the L of Persephone. Not very interesting, but might make a good easy escape route.
	A.Vincent, M.Jackson, Jun 1995.

123.	Persephone	35m	16
	There are two 45 degree angle roofs about 15m R of Selkie. Start on the ledge down lower just past the second of these. Climb the easy corner then move onto the arête above the roof. Climb this arête and face to the top. A little contrived and with long runouts.
	M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Sep 1994.

Meadowbank

Meadowbank. A place. Moving further right from Persephone, the cliff becomes an area of easy rock and indistinct gully features which may be variously ascended at a standard of grade 2 or harder, providing unroped upward access for cautious, competent people. A large ledge roughly marks the north eastern boundary of Land's End. To the right of this the cliff steepens once more, eventually transforming into a dark sea cave. The following climb takes the diagonal directly above the lip of the cave, from the right.

124.

Ishmael

50m

15

This route (and Volunteers Abroad) are accessed by abseiling off Meadowbank to a large, chossy ledge just R of Persephone. The attractive line 12m R of the abseil ledge. Beware of loose rock.
1. 15m 11	Traverse Northwards from abseil ledge to an obvious cave ledge full of rounded, bulbous knobs. Belay.
2. 35m 15	Climb diagonally up and L of the overhanging roof of the cave to good vertical spike. From this, go up pocket-filled wall with crack on its R, cross over Volunteers Abroad and climb directly to the top.

S.Jarman, S.Bray, A.Passmore, Jul 1997.

125.

Volunteers Abroad

105m

15

Traverses the strong horizontal line at half cliff-height, crossing above a huge cave and up the major corner L of Moloch. Loose and sparsely-protected.
1. 45m 11	Traverse the hanging slab (20m above sea-level) towards a cave. Belay under roof, above south lip of the sea cave.
2. 30m 15	Continue traversing, over the cave, then crank out on the R wall to exit from beneath roof. Belay on ledge around arête on R.
3. 30m 14	Follow large corner with crack above, veering L onto slab to finish.

H.Jackson, A.Roberts (alt.), Jul 1997.

★ 126.

Moloch

50m

15

Abseil down the cliff about 20m north of the corner above the cave. From here scramble to the arete that forms the mouth of the cave.
1. 27m	Climb the east face of the arête (sparse pro) to a very loose ledge.
2. 23m	Traverse down L and around to the dark face above the cave. Follow the diagonal (spectacular but easy) heading up just before the corner is reached on strange rock (though a little loose).

B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Oct 1994.

127.

Impalation

45-50m

15

Takes the second arête north of Moloch. There is potential for many very easy slab routes in this area but none would be very good due mostly to poor rock.
1. 40m	Up to a ledge about 5m below the top.
2. 5-10m	Escape to the world above (loose and variable). Not recommended.

M.Jackson, A.Vincent, H.Jackson, Sep 1994.

★★★ 128.

Inferno

53m

17

A dark and evil classic. This takes the line up the face of the ferocious cave 150m north of Moloch. It is believed that this cave connects with Hades on the other side of the point. Once the cave entrance has been spotted (since it enters the cliff at an angle, it can be seen from the south only), set up an abseil rope (leave it fixed) to abseil down just north of the R arête of the cave (taking extreme care on the appallingly loose cliff top). Scramble round to a spike at the R of the cave entrance (about 3m tall and 7m above the water) to start.
1. 48m	Step down L toward the cave and traverse to the triangular ledge. Climb up and L onto the overhanging face of the cave entrance and on up to the ledge (an awesome situation in rough seas ). Up the huge corner (initially a little loose) until an escape can be made R to the ledge just below the top.
2. 5m	Escape to the loose cliff top. NB: Belaying at the big ledge half way up would give more balanced pitches.

H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Aug 1994.

The following climb weaves through the impressive labyrinth of roofs that cap the tallest part of the East Face of Dauntless Point.

★ 129.

Dirty Equation

80m

16

A disturbing climb with nauseating exposure. It has its fair share of loose rock at the scary bits. Start just below the L end of the cap roofs of the slab of Dauntless. To access, either climb the first pitch and a half of Dauntless OR abseil from the highest point of Dauntless Point (about 45m abseil - 30m of which is in free space).
1. 5m 16	Climb through the bulge forming the L end of the roof to belay on the face below the next overhang.
2. 40m 15	A convoluted pitch to pass the next roof overlap. Traverse R-wards until the roof finishes, then traverse back L above the roof to belay about 5m above the previous belay.
3. 15m 16	Climb up to the back of the next roof, then traverse L to the hanging arête (the technical and psychological crux). Climb the short hand crack up the arete to belay on ledge.
4. 20m	Easy. Move along the ledge to the R then climb up easy ground to the top.

Hamish and Marcel Jackson, 1997.

★★★ 130.

Dauntless

105m

15

Another excellent adventure (wear a helmet). Although the rock on the slabs to the north of this climb is extremely poor, the rock on Dauntless is at worst adequate and at best brilliant. A little south of the highest point of the Dauntless Point, the east facing slabby cliffs are capped by numerous big roofs. Abseil immediately before (i.e. to the north) the first of these down the edge of a very chossy slab for 55m (best to fix this rope - take extra 15m to anchor from bushes). From here a second 30m abseil from rap slings can be made off the L edge of the slab into the corner and down to a significant ledge about 15m above the water. The rock takes on a different character from here.
1. 40m	Traverse L into the next mammoth corner then up the slab, tending L of the first roof to belay.
2. 20m	Traverse L along the horizontal to belay to the L the roof.
3. 35m	Up the face to another huge roof then traverse L across to a ledge on the L arête of the face.
4. 10m	Up easily to the top.

H.Jackson, M.Jackson, Jun 1994.

131.

Wu wei

100m

14

1. 30m	Start at major horizontal crack/ledge 15-20m above the sea. Climb cracks and features on slab for several metres before traversing right to a brief bulge/steepening and continue straight up slab to belay at the base of right facing corner feature (not the giant left facing corner a few metres to the right), a more direct start would be possible but a touch harder.
2. 30m	Climb corner passing small roof on the right and continue up next corner climbing right onto the next slabby wall about where the corner opens up with a little vegetation on your left. belay on the next rubble covered ledge.
3. 40m	Climb up and right, then climb left through weakness in 'rooves' and up poorly protected but easy slabs to the top. It could be handy to leave 10-15m of static rope here to make a decent anchor.

Tim Whelan and Dave James Dec 2012.

Mount Brown Main Face

The main face of Mount Brown itself has seen little attention over the years, possibly due to every sane person on the planet being rightfully terrified of the thing. However, the addition of these high quality and mostly safe multi-pitch routes has started to change that.

The newer climbs on the left side offer some of the best multipich climbs in Tasmania.

Approach via the walking track to the summit of Mt Brown. When approximately 50m from the trig station, head west towards Cape Raoul towards the highest point at the cliff edge and locate the abseil anchors on the edge of the cliff (either by using the GPS co-ords listed at the start of the guide, by looking for cairns, or the following description).

Once near the edge of the cliff, locate the largest rocky area close to the edge, which is approximately above the highest point of the cliff. There are two distinct trees/bushes right on the edge of the cliff in the rocky area. The top bolts for IHIAB are on the L edge (facing out) of this rocky area, concealed under the L most small bush. It is hard to describe, but look for a cairn and you should find it. The top of TGB is about 25m to the R (facing out), where there is a thick tree 8m from the edge. You can fix a rope to this tree and use it to protect the scramble down to the top bolts, which are on a ledge just below a boulder at the top of the cliff.

Be very careful at the edge of the cliff, because there are many loose rocks and the wind gusts can be quite strong. If you fall off the edge you will experience a rather unpleasant landing in the water.

Arrested Development and Treading Water

On Commitment: These are not a sport climbs, the hard bits have not necessarily been bolted when there is natural gear at hand. The climbing traverses above the sea, once you've rappelled down to the start of P1, retreat is not really an option. There is no phone reception until the final few pitches, rescue seems fairly unlikely anyway given the terrain. For the full experience, include the sea-level traverse described below. The other Rappel Access was added later and lands you close to the start of P1. The sea level traverse may seep after heavy rain, as may P1 and P8.

Access:
Walk to (GPS: -43.201014, 147.864029) on the Mt Brown walking track. Turn off right and walk to the top of a gully (Snake Gully - GPS: -43.20337, 147.862648). Rappel or scramble ~20m down Snake Gully off the three FH anchors. At the water's edge at the bottom of snake gully, ascend short wall by any means necessary to start of sea level traverse. Traverse right around 200m (about grade 10 when dry), mostly close to the water until the end, where you can walk up a short hill to access a DBB 20m above sea level. Rap on right of ledge to sea level, passing one bolt half way down. This bolt (and tat) can be used to prevent your rope falling into the ocean when you pull it. Trad anchor on ledge at sea level marks the start of P1.

This sea level traverse option can get tricky at high tide or in southerly swell > 2m. If it's too hectic there is an optional Rappel Access:
Locate the top DBB on the prow (-43.205386, 147.864753), this is a short scramble down from the clifftop proper, and 60m left of where you will finish the route. There is a third bolt 1m above the top DBB to make access less dodgy. 60m rope is required. 1. 27m Free hanging, 2. 20m Land on bushy ledge, 3. 27m Down low angle terrain to small ledge, 4. 18m To a small ledge, DBB left of ledge, 5. 27m Rap to bushy platform, coil rope and walk down and ~40m right towards the route from here, this should land you at the DBB at the end of the sealevel traverse.

★★★ 132.

Arrested Development

200m

29

The first route to brave the wild left side.

1.	20m 21 Short pitch of traversing up and right, starting at a single bolt near the sea. Mixed bolts and gear.
2.	25m 24 More traversing. Ends at a single bolt anchor. #0.4/#0.5 left of bolt backs up the anchor.
3.	15m 19 All trad, mostly traversing right.
4.	15m 23 Straight up via some excellent climbing. Fully bolted.
5.	15m 20 Horizontal traverse right to small ledge DBB, all gear.
6.	35m 26 'The Black sail', Mixed. This beautiful smooth head-wall is probably the best pitch on the route.
7.	20m 29 'The tonsil pitch'. Fully bolted. Big moves in-between good kneebars leads to a headwall crux which climbs slightly left of the seam.
8.	30m 21 Straight up for ten metres then tend right up broken line to large sloping ledge. Mixed.
9.	30m 21 From sloping ledge, go up obvious dark crack, trend left slightly and follow bolts, to DBB. Be careful of poor rock on this pitch.
10.	10m 20 Continue upwards, upon reaching the ledge just below the summit, traverse 10m left to DBB anchor. (GPS: -43.205743, 147.865534).

Pitch lengths are approximate. A standard trad rack up to #4 is recommended. It can be slimmed down once familiar with the route. All pitches have bolted anchors accept for pitch 2 where a single bolt can be backed up with a 0.4/0.5 cam or a large wire.

Equipped by Simon Bischoff and Liz Oh and freed by Simon Bischoff and Alex Hartshorne alternating leads 2020/2021

★★ 133.

Treading Water

230m

27

A stacked mixed variant of Arrested Development, even more committing! Starts from DBB on ledge near sea level.

1. 20m 21	Traverse up and right, finishing with a long move to reach stance and DBB. 5 bolts + gear.

2. 25m 24	More traversing, mostly on bolts. Ends at a single bolt anchor. #0.4/#0.5 left of bolt backs up the anchor.

3. 20m 19	Very exposed traverse right under the roofs to DBB. All trad.

4. 25m 24	The downclimb pitch. Keep traversing right, eventually moving downwards on big juggy pockets following the eye bolts with red glue. Ignore fantastic ledge below you with single bolt, instead continue following the line another 12m right to reach DBB anchor. Mixed.

5. 40m 25	Head up past bolts into a short corner. At the fourth bolt, traverse left on pockets (crux) to another crack system. Follow this and trend rightward at the end to a DBB on the right prow. 4 bolts + gear.

6. 30m 27	Crux pitch. From the belay, head up and right passing four bolts on the face via some long moves. Climb up the hanging corner before traversing right under the Great Roof of Tasmania. Take a breather in the corner before a juggy pull through the next roof and rightwards traverse to DBB. 4 bolts + gear.

7. 40m 26	Bouldery crux early on past first 3 bolts, followed by a long and funky corner mostly on gear. Flop onto the large sloping ledge at the top and traverse left to fixed hanger anchor. 5 bolts + gear.

8. 35m 21	From sloping ledge, go up obvious dark crack, trend left slightly and follow bolts, to DBB. Be careful of poor rock on this pitch.

9. 20m 20	Continue up and left, passing single FH. Upon reaching the ledge just below the summit, traverse 10m left to DBB anchor. Walk home from here (GPS: -43.205743, 147.865534).

Recommended Rack: Single rack of cams BD #0.3 to #4, with doubles of #1 and #2. Six short and eight long draws. Take additional cams including black alien and #0.1 and #0.2 if you want the option to aid the crux pitch. A 60m rope is enough to lead all the pitches. All pitches end at Double Bolt Belays, except P2 as noted above. Each person should take a microtrax or other rope clamp/ascender in case you end up in space. Pitch lengths above are approximate only.

Alex Hartshorne and Claudio Trefny, January 2022 (Pitches 1-4 and 8-9 equipped by Liz oh and Simon Bischoff)

★★★ 134.

Time Goes Bye

115m

23/26

(or 20A0)

The first route on the wall. Work was started on it many years prior, then it lay there waiting and begging to be climbed before it was eventually completed! GPS coords (listed at the start, code MBR050) will make finding the start easier. Otherwise, find the I've Heard It All Before raps,and walk 25m North along the cliff top then look behind a large boulder below there. The top rap station for Time Goes Bye is in horizontal rock near the edge of the cliff, extend it beyond the edge of the cliff if you want to pull your rope.

1a. 30m 23	From the belay traverse L to the big spike, from here head up and then back R to the belay.
1b. 25m 23	From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above (mixed gear).
2. 15m 17	An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. One bolt and gear.
3. 25m 22	Spicy moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #2 Camalot for between 1st and 2nd bolt.
4a. 20m 20	From the belay traverse up and L to the corner, clipping two bolts, follow this on mixed gear and exit R at the top to the belay. Wires and small (finger tip sized) cams are useful in the corner. Gear up to #0.5 Camalot
4b. 20m 26	The RH line heading direct to the belay. Awesome rock, with fun moves near the top! (fully bolted).
5. 30m 23	From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux to the top. (fully bolted)

Suggested gear list: 60m rope, helmets, 9 quickdraws + 3 extendable quickdraws, medium to large set of wires, Cams (BD): #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #1, #2.
Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route, an additional rope for rappelling is optional.

Garry Phillips, Simon Young (in a team effort), April 2007.

★★ 135.

Biding TIme

210m

26

A steep, traversing climb starting at the bottom of Talk is cheap, and finishing left of Time Goes Bye.

Access: Rappel as for Talk is cheap to the start of its second pitch. This can be done with a single 60m rope provided NO rap stations are missed. The top anchor is best extended over the edge so the rope can be pulled easily. Take measures to avoid ending up in space while rappelling. All pitches end at a double bolt belay (DBB).

1. 20m 17	From the start of the second pitch of Talk is Cheap, Traverse straight left following bolts and trend downwards at the final three bolts to DBB.
2a. 22m 22	Traverse left 6m from the anchor passing one bolt, then some steep moves up the face left of the prow. Climb the face above and head left to cross the overlap to DBB.
2b. 23m 23	As for option 2a, at its third bolt, traverse left into the overhanging roof trench on trad gear. Climb up through this to belay above the overlap.
3. 25m 25	The steep madness pitch. Climb up passing the first roof following bolts and gear. Burly moves heading left after the bolt in the second roof, then up to DBB.
4. 12m 19	Short traverse leftward following bolts and gear, then up to DBB.
5. 25m 20	Up past the bolt, then climb the crack system above before traversing rightwards to follow a second crack leading to DBB. One bolt, then all trad.
6. 18m 24	Step right from belay then up the steep crack system. After the crack finishes, follow bolts to belay on the right.
7. 32m 22	Follow bolts and gear up to ledge. Take all the draws and gear for this long pitch.
8. 15m 26	Head up face, traverse right past the tufa hold then up and right of arete to ledge. Fully bolted.
9. 15m 21	Bolts and gear to Ledge.
10. 25m 25	Bolts and gear trend rightwards to a good rest at half height. Pull some tricky moves up the seam. Mantle, then head left and follow bolts up to DBB at the top of the cliff.

Gear: Single rack of cams BD #0.3 to #3, doubles #0.75 and #1 are optional. 15 quick draws including 5 long draws. Micro Trax or other ascender in case you end up hanging in space. 60m rope suffices.

Alex Hartshorne and Claudio Trefny, February 2023

★★★ 136.

Talk is Cheap

210m

24

(or 22A0)

Another crazy route on the big wall of Mt Brown. This is the best and most sustained of the easier trio! This route requires mandatory free moves of grade 22 in order to get out. Rap anchor GPS co-ords are given at the beginning (MBR051).

Access: Rappel can be done with a single 60m rope provided NO rap stations are missed. The top anchor is best extended over the edge so the rope can be pulled easily. Take measures to avoid ending up in space while rappelling. All pitches end at a double bolt belay (DBB).

1. 10m 14	From the ledge on the lip of the cave move easily up to a nice stance on the pocketed wall.
2. 35m 24	One crazy pitch! Steep and sustained over the 3 overlaps.
3. 25m 22	Traverse L past and up into the corner. Up this, then back R through and around roof.
4. 15m 16	Up slabs above to the chill out ledge.
5. 20m 20	Plug in a few cams (#2 & #1 Camalot) then blast up the wall to another stance.
6. 30m 23	Head up and R through the steep juggy wall above, passing the Pocket of Love at the top.
7. 25m 22	Move R around the arête, up to #2 Camalot crack and then up the thin layback crack above. Have fun!
8. 20m 19	Continue up the corner above requires #1 & #.75 Camalots at the top.
9. 25m 17	Step R into the corner and then traverse diagonally R to the big ledge (#.5 Camalot if you want).
10. 10m 8	Scramble easily out as for IHIAB.
Suggested gear list: 60m rope and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, Camalots: 1 each of #.4 #.5 #.75 #1 #2. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.

Garry Phillips and Simon Young, October 2008.

I’ve Heard it All Before is best accessed with the use of three ropes, as the top 40m is best left fixed. Climb the rest of the route on double ropes. (If you're careful raps and climbing can be done on a single 70m rope). Descriptions are given if looking at the cliff (i.e. climbers left or right). From the top of the cliff locate the rap anchors with a GPS (MBR051) or description above.
Rapping
1. 40m Fix 1 rope in hard and make a 10m rap to the ledge, from here re-belay at the next lot of anchors and rap a further 25m to the next ledge.
Thread double ropes and pull them for the rest of the route.
2. 35m Rap over the 23 pitch to Deano’s ledge.
Note: DO NOT rap down the route from here.
3. 26m Rap off the bolts on the RH side of the ledge to reach the next anchors (rings). You will need to Tension traverse R (using bolt high and R) after about 10m.
4. 50m Rap down and right along the long hanging slab to large vegetated ledge with multible bolts which makes the Traverse of pitch 2. Can now be done in two raps using an intermediate rap/belay station installed for "I've Hear it All Before Variant".
5. 30m Fix 1 of your double ropes to a single bolt on the RH side of the ledge (can be backed up with a bolt on the left)
If you pull your ropes here they will land in the ocean! Climb this bottom pitch on one rope.

★★ 137.

I've Heard It All Before

200m

23

(or 20A0)

A nice day out that takes you from a ledge just above the water all the way to the top of the cliff. For full value go down when the swell is pumping a monster SW. It's nuts! Rap anchor GPS co-ords are given at the beginning (MBR051), or use description above.

To Access pitches 1a and 1b: If the swell allows, rapel from the very R end of the Botanical Gardens ledge to a hanging DBB 2m above sea level. (though some days it may actually be 2m below the water).

1a. 30m 19	The LH line, starting at sea level (fully Bolted).
1b. 30m 20	The RH line, starting at sea level and re-joining 1a near the top (fully Bolted).
2. 15m 18	The route continues from the L end of the Botanical Gardens ledge. Traverse L past the letterbox slot to the next ledge. (fully bolted).
3. 25m 19	Up corner to short slab, then follow triple cracks (crux) to the ledge on L. Take all your cams and save gold camalot for the crux. Easy to link with the next pitch 4.
4. 20m 14	The fantastic juggy ramp under the big roofs, finishing at The Come Again Belay. Amazing! (fully bolted).
5. 25m 17	Head up ramp on the L then cut back R across the break to nice small ledge above the ocean. Dubbed the Milky Way Pitch! (fully bolted).
6. 15m 22	A bouldery pitch up the steep corner and flake system to Deano’s Ledge (fully bolted - some bolts on this pitch are mild steel and are in extremely poor condition due to corrosion in October 2018. It is possible to avoid these bolts by climbing a corner 1m to the left on gear, then stepping back to the right for the last, steepest part of the pitch, which is well protected with good bolts).
7. 35m 23	Step off L end of ledge and climb the awesome pocketed face to the hand and finger crack; then continue 20m on up and left to the next belay past more bolts.
8. 25m 21	Up the crack, then break R to incut flake line and then move back L to slopey finish. (fully bolted) (easy to link with next pitch)
9. 10m 8	Scramble out easily with care.
Suggested gear list: Double ropes and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, Camalots: 1 each of #.4 #.5 #.75 #1 #2. Screwgates for the belays. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.

Garry Phillips and Dean Rollins, November 2007.

★★ 138.

I've Heard It All Before Variants

20


This is how the first pitch of the route was originally climbed:
30m 12	From the ledge just above the sea and to the right of the botanical gardens ledge, follow the easy crack up the slab and the wall above.
15m 10	The face and slab above, ending at the Botanical Gardens ledge.


There are three more variant pitches that go up from the Botanical Gardens ledge to the right of the main route, which Garry has to write better descriptions for:

2a.	25m 18 - Straight up from the Botanical Gardens ledge. DO NOT CLIMB as higher pitches need to be equiped.
3a.	??m ?? - DO NOT CLIMB Needs to be equipped with bolts
4a.	??m ?? - DO NOT CLIMB Needs to be equipped with bolts

Simon Young, Garry Phillips

Hidden Face

The Hidden Face is on the south eastern side of Mt Brown. It provides a great days climbing with 10 one pitch routes at the bottom of the cliff on excellent rock, then the option of three multi-pitch climbs to get out (Thriller (23) or Psychoman (21) or No Contest (24)). The face receives very little sun, but remarkably stays quite dry. Access is via abseil and the only way out is to climb out or jumar, as it is cut off by sea in both directions. It is advisable to fix static lines down the cliff to jumar out if necessary. Otherwise if you are confident enough, pull the ropes (double 60m required) for a totally committed day out. There is a large rock platform at the base of the cliff offering good protection from a large swell.

Access: The access to the cliff top is a 10 min walk from the trig point. From the trig point, head in a straight line towards Tasman Island for about 150m and follow the rough pad and occasional cairns through deep scrub. The track comes to a junction about 20m from the cliff edge. Either turn right for the anchors of Psycho-Man, or left for the anchors of No Contest/The Offering, following rough tracks to the cliff top.

For Psychoman anchor, locate a single anchor 10m back from the cliff edge (back up on a tree) and rap 10m to anchors just over the edge. It is 3 raps to the ground 1.(20m) 2. (40m) 3. (35m) with DBB at each station.

To access via The Offerings turn left at psychoman/no contest junction. From northern edge of large open area at clifftop (No Contest Anchor) locate track cut in bush. follow this for 40m to DBB 4m from ciff edge. Recommend bring long sling/piece of rope to extend anchor to make pulling the first rappel easier. From here make 7 rappels with minimum 50m rope or one short rappel over cliff edge then 3x 60m rappels.

★★★ 139.

Thriller

100m

23

Þ

Thriller offers exceptionally good quality climbing. Prepare your self for engaging and technical climbing in a wild location. The pitches are stiff for the grade so make sure you are solid as a descent could be tricky (due to the traverse). The route is fully bolted, although probably best to take a few cams (#0.2-#0.5 camelot).
1. 15m 12	Start as for Psycho Man, but then traverse left after a few meters aiming for the large ledge near the start of the sea cave.
2. 30m 23	From the ledge clip the first bolt. Downclimb to the horizontal break and traverse left and up. Wild! As of Jan 2022 there is a double bolt anchor.
3. 20m 23	A bouldery start enables entry to the crack system. Up this to an easier finish. As of Jan 2022 the missing bolt has been installed.
4. 20m 22	Up the slab above to just below the overlap. Traverse left (crux) and up the line above.
5. 15m 18	Step right and finish up the last few meters of Psycho Man.

Gear List: 14x quick draws, 3x 30cm quick draws, 1x 60cm quick draw, optional cams (#0.2-0.5)

Garry Phillips and Kim Ladiges 2016

★★ 140.

Dumpling Squid

50m

26

An alternative to pitches 2 and 3 of Thriller.

1.	15m 12 As for Thriller

2.	50m 26 Cimb Thriller pitch 2 to the second last bolt, then continue through small roof above into the rad stem corner. Continue to the top of the third pitch of Thriller.


3.	25m 22 As for Thriller

4.	25m 18 As for Thriller

Fully bolted

Alex Hartshorne & Rosie Hohnen Jan 2022

★★★ 141.

Psycho-Man

95m

22

18Þ

Starts at the far left end of the rock platform just before a big sea cave. There is a single bolt belay at the base of the route. A pleasant and technical slab climb on good rock all the way to the top of the cliff. The main entry/exit route. Not completely a sport route, see Pitch 3 for details.
1. 35m, 22	Up easy ledges for most of the pitch, but then a real doozy of a move about 5m before the anchors. The face steepens to a big move to a big flat hold. Make another big move directly right before heading up.
2. 40m, 21	A superb pitch of great variety. Trend left delicately across the slab to gain flake system. Up this before another delicate traverse to gain the thin layback crack in the major corner. Layback up the corner (crux), then step left around steep bulge to gain the arête, and up to the anchors.
3. 20m, 19	A straightforward corner followed by a layback move on a steep flake near the top.
This climb is fully bolted but some people consider the bolts to be quite spaced. Take a couple of BD #0.3s and 0.4s for pitches 2 and 3 if you don't fell confident.

Gerry Narkowicz and Garry Phillips Dec 2012.

★ 142.

Average Joe

100 m

17

A moderate adventure route and the line of least resistance up the Hidden Face. The climb follows a series of crack systems to the top of the cliff.

1) 20m (17)	Start as for Psychoman then verge right after 5 metres until at base of steep corner (crux). Up this (grade 17) or step left around arete and up more easily. Belay here, or continue up crack and link with pitch 2.

2) 20m (13) Continue up the easy corner until reaching a crack that peters out before a blank slab. Belay from a stance in the crack.

3) 20m (16) Up slab (runout) and right until a short finger crack takes gear, then over bulge and belay on top of a pedestal at base of headwall.

4) 20m (15) Traverse left and over into overhanging corner system. Over bulge and easily up corner to belay.

5) 20m (15) Up middle of face, using a series of blocks and flakes to the summit. First ascent climbed into the bushes and belayed from a tree near the descent abseil bolt. This pitch has dubious rock quality.

Pitch lengths are estimates, and belay stances described are a guide only. This route is still a serious undertaking due to the loose nature of the rock in sections. Be careful.

Gear: Standard rack, several alpine draws

Mitch Scanlan-Bloor & Nick Whitelaw, 4 Mar 2023

★ 143.	Sea Spray	15m	10
	In the alcove at the left end of the main sea platform is a neat system of twin handcracks leading up to a pinnacle, about 3m left of a major corner. Pleasant enough and one of Garry’s finest leads of his career. Abseil ring at the pinnacle. Gear: cams up to #2 and medium wires.
	Garry Phillips Dec 2012.

★ 144.	Seaweed Groove	18m	24	6Þ
	On the face of the alcove is a right trending line leading out from the big corner. Up the corner (solo or #2 camalot) then step right onto the face at the 1st bolt for a terrific series of steep layback moves up a thin flake system.
	Garry Phillips Dec 2012.

★★★ 145.	Starfish Arete	18m	19	7Þ
	The arête to the right. A fun and exciting climb. Up the groove right of the arête then step left spectacularly around the arête to gain the big flake. Layback to the anchors.
	Garry Phillips Dec 2012.

★★★ 146.

No Contest

145m

24

18Þ

The first route up the Hidden Face, a monumental effort by Alex and Garry. Takes the highest section of clean, unbroken face near the middle of the cliff and left of the summit roofs.
1a. 50m	Alex and Garry’s Project finishing at the first belay.
1b. 50m 21	The right hand line. Done in one long pitch from the ground. Has everything from jugs to handjams, Amazing.
2. 35m 24	Contine up the line. Steep and pumpy to crux at last bolt.
3. 30m 22	From the big ledge, climb easily up to the roof and turn it on, passing the roof on the right side.
4. 25m 18	To the top. On this pitch, many bolts are in poor condition due to corrosion (Jan-2015), some can be backed up with BD #0.5 and #0.75.

Alex Lewis and Garry Phillips Oct 2010.

Right of No Contest is a neat lower tier of perfect grey rock finishing at sloping ledges about 30m up. Some superb one pitch routes here all equipped with lower-offs.

★★★ 147.

Rime of the Ancient Mariner

30m

23

Þ

Just right of the centre of the cliff is a prominent thin corner. Start in handcrack (trad gear) then left trending diagonal jam crack to gain the first bolt at 10m. Technical stemming and strenuous laybacks up the corner. Near the top of the route is a finger crack which takes 0.5 and 0.75 cams before one last bolt to the anchors. Brilliant climb. Gear: 7B plus cams
0.5 (double), 0.75, 1, 2, 3.

Gerry Narkowicz and Garry Phillips Nov 2012.

★★★ 148.	Wagon Wheel Express	25m	23	10Þ
	Next right is a beautiful line of flakes going up into a shallow corner. About 5m from the top, an amazing step right around the arête to gain the wagon wheel hole, then a couple of thin moves to the anchors. First class route.
	Garry Phillips Nov 2012.

★★ 149.	Grey on Brown	22 m	20	8p
	Techy face climbing then a juggy crank through the roof at the fourth U.
	Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni Apr 2024

★★ 150.	Brown Love	25m	19	7Þ
	We love it here at Mt Brown. Next line just right of a prominent overhang. Up seam and left trending line to finish up headwall on amazing hueco pockets. Single bolt lower-off at top.
	Gerry Narkowicz Nov 2012.

★★★ 151.

The Offerings

150m

19

From the top of Brown Love (or one of the routes either side of it) continue up a further 7 pitches to the top. An amazing route on good rock, climbing incredible terrain for the grade. Although the route is fully bolted climbers should be experienced and confident at the grade as it is still a serious location and the only way out is up (don't become an offering to Poseidon!). The route can be rappelled with a single 50m rope. Bring something to extend the top anchor a few meters if rappelling, as anchor is back from cliff edge.

1.	25m 19 climb Brown Love
2.	20m 15 traverse left on slab
3.	25m 18 climb face to crack and corner crux.
4.	12m 15 pocketed arete climbing
5.	20m 18 hard start then fun climbing in corner
6.	20m 19 Continue up corner then hard moves to gain slab above
7.	20m 17 climb steep corner then finger lock to face above
8.	8m 17 short corner to top

Kim Ladiges, Dan Johnson. Apr 2024

★★ 152.	Mission Brown	25m	18	8Þ
	Next right is a lovely face climb, probably the best warm up route in the area. Good technical moves all the way to DBB.
	Garry Phillips Nov 2012.

★★ 153.	Brown Eye	25m	20
	The neat thin hand crack in a corner which trends left through a small roof up to DBB. Excellent climbing. All trad gear 0.5 to 3 cams.
	Gerry Narkowicz and Garry Phillips Dec 2012.

★ 154.	Bob Brown	25m	19	Þ
	Next right is a series of stepped corners with a flared handcrack in the middle. A bit of technical faggotry of all styles with some burly jamming then some thin and obscure bridging to baffle strong, thuggish climbers. Ledges detract from this route. Gear: 6B plus 0.4, 0.5 and 0.75 cam.
	Gerry Narkowicz Dec 2012.

155.	Brown Sugar	25m	26	Þ
	Next line right is a prominent thin seam. Nice layback and bridging moves up the seam for most of the climb (about 21), then a diabolical thin crux in the top corner, followed by an equally desperate move left across the slab on crimps and up to the anchors.
	Squib (Bolted by Gerry, you've been Narkoblitzed)

★★ 156.	Chocolate Brownie	25m	22	10 bolts
	The last route on the right hand side of the face before the sea cave. Step right off the ledge for an extremely stretched out pull into the crack, then excellent sustained moves up the face at about grade 20. The start is out of character for the rest of the route, so for a more moderate experience, just yard on the first bolt.
	Gerry Narkowicz October 2018

Ethereal Cave

★★ 157.	Ethereal	25m	23
	The first prominent line of overhanging arete like features in Ethereal Cave trending right. Sustained climbing on large holds with brilliant exposure above deep water, Crux is above 20 metres. Either jump off lower down for a safe exit or rig a safety line by traversing a horizontal break from chocolate brownie on gear.
	Michael Lehmann, 23 December 2020.

Crescent Bay

Crescent Bay is the gorgeous sandy beach on the eastern side of the Mt Brown peninsula-ette. There is climbing to be done at the cliffs at either end of the beach on single pitch dolerite buttresses typical of the area. To get there, continue on the main walking track another 10 or 15 minutes past the turn off to the Paradiso to an intersection, where the track heads up to Mt Brown summit. Take the track E towards Crescent Bay. Alternatively (and quicker), park at the end of Dog Bark Road (turn off is 1 km before Remarkable Caves car park) and follow the track that will deposit you in the middle of Crescent Bay.

The Infirmary

The Infirmary is the continuation of the cliff from south veil cliff. As the escarpment rises towards the summit of Mt Brown the cliff gets taller. Fundamentally the rock is better than its sickening pockmarked appearance. The flaky surface layer may take some getting used to though. Abseil in and climb out. A length of static may be useful to make an anchor from shrubs at the cliff top.

158.

Dunning-Kruger

60

18

A featured and direct line near left end of the wall.
1)20m.starting at thin side pulls to featured cracks leading to a small roof at around 8m continue up cracks to belay at small ledge.
2)40m continue straight up featured crack past small ledges. At a longer ledge near the top move a couple of meters right to climb small pockets to the top.

Chris Allen, Dave James. 09/05/2015

159.

Discount Future

60

17

R

Mildly unhinged. Possibly not well protected.
1)30m	starting about 3m right of DK climb crack with small spike at 5m. Continue through cracks and briefly awkward slot section to belay on ledge.
2)30m	continue navigating through insane pockets and cracks moving right briefly before final pocket huecos. Finish up easy large cracks immediately right of DK.

Hamish Jackson, Dave James. 03/02/2013

160.	Histrionics	30m	16
	abseil to small ledges at base of brown featured rock. 1)30m Climb features to thin crack leading up to crazy featured crack/corner system.
	Dave James, Hamish Jackson 03/02/2013

161.

Impatient inpatient

55m

15

abseil to small ledge with diagonal ramp leading left.
1) 25m climb ramp then chimney corner feature stepping left to easier ground and continue up slabs to belay.
2) 30m Climb up featured rock passing left of the rooves. Continue over featured rock then moving right to follow features and avoiding steeper rock on the left.

Tim Whelan, Dave James. 17/4/2015

South Veil Cliff

The first climbs described here, at South Veil, are about 1 km SE from the south end of the Crescent Bay beach. To get there, walk along the boulder beach and shore slabs at the SW end of Crescent Beach, deviating into the scrub where necessary, but sticking to the shoreline where possible. You will eventually reach an impressive little inlet that houses the Veil Cliff. On the southern side of the Veil Cliff another cliff extends out of view – the aptly named South Veil cliff. Walk around the top of this, and then scramble onto the wide platform and abseil to the series of slabs and ledges at the base.

162.	Fijian police check	20	21
	Start at small sloping ledge/right facing slab several metres above the water climb short crack to small ledge/stance then second thinner crack to stance, up trending left then back right for exciting finish.
	Chris Allen, Dave James. 09/05/2014

163.	Chicken Shute	15m	16
	Several metres L of Southern Fury follow the crack and slab to a short flaring off-width. Think better of it and step R onto the ledge and finish up the L-facing corner slot.
	Dave James, Mark Allen, Jul 2002.

164.	Southern Fury	15m	15
	Bridge and layback the R-facing corner then hand-jam the superb crack to the top.
	Dave James, Mark Allen, Jul 2002.

165.	Northern Brewery	15m	16
	2m R of Southern Fury a short crack leads to the L end of a ledge. Climb featured cracks and wall, then traverse R below orange slab groove to the arête and top.
	Dave James and Mark Allen, Jul 2002.

166.	Excuse me while I kiss this guy	15m	16
	At a large short R-facing corner, flakes and delicate bridging lead to a ledge on the R and a further R-facing corner and fist crack. An easier start would be to step a couple of metres R, mantle then step back L.
	Ian Riley and Dave James, Jul 2002.

167.	Human Beans	17m	16
	At the next ledge R of Excuse me while I kiss this guy, a R-facing corner leads to easier ground. Climb the twin cracks and corner, then continue to small R-facing corner and layback to top.
	Doug Grubert and Ian Riley, Jul 2002.

168.	Sentient Beans	10m	16
	R of Human Beans, scramble to higher ledges then climb cracks to top of blunt arête.
	Doug Grubert and Ian Riley, Jul 2002.

Veil Cliff

Beyond the last point visible from Crescent Bay lies a concealed treasure. At the far E end of the crag one reaches a tiny promontory looking over the main cliffs. This promontory makes a corner that is Stonespell. The first two climbs have their own little ledge at sea level that is accessed by rapping down Stonespell.

★★★ 169.	The Horror	35 m	25	DWS
	Intense. Traverse in along Baryshnikov to punchy move then down climb two metres. Under cling left for three metres and then up with increasing difficulties and fear. When your feet are level with an obvious ledge (give yourself a gold star if you decide to jump from here or) traverse back right into Baryshnikov utilizing a flake on the arete.
	Danny Wade January 2020

170.	Don't touch the Succulents	25	22
	Traverse slab into steep crack, then continue up hand crack to a sea of Succulents.
	A. Hartshorne, S. Bishoff 2020

★★★ 171.

Baryshnikov

30m

23

DWS

Now say it with a Russian accent. Say it!

A must do for DWS enthusiasts. Traverse in high from a metre left of Shegold, concentrate the deep water hasn’t started yet. There is a rail below the roof which provides glorious traversing to a punchy move left to a jug and flake. Layback and jam up the flake past another pumpy crux to good jugs and respite. Up and left following crack to arête, you’re high now hold it together. Mantle ledge then climb the 3 metres of rope you wisely left to top out avoiding the crumble. Recommend cleaning prior to climbing. Nostrovia!

Danny Wade December 2019

★ 172.	Shegold	30m	15
	Pretty sweet. The left leading line largely visible from the promontory. From the spike just L of Stonespell, head up for a few metres to make an exciting traverse L. Follow the L-trending jug-trail to a grassy ledge and then press on to the top.
	Dave James and Matt Jones, Jun 2002.

173.	Stonespell	25m	16
	The thought-provoking corner made by the promontory. You can't get lost.
	Dave James, Ben Rhee and Tim Whelan, Jun 2002.

The following routes are accessed by rapping from the ledge system below and SE of the promontory.

174.	Jimmy Milk	18	DWS
	Follow the line in the topo. Down climbing to the traverse is probably the trickiest bit and after that its nice climbing on and to the right of the arete. Bail off right when it gets high or just keep going. Its not exactly Majorca but its a fun little scramble.
	Simon Bishelstroppen

175.	Fathom	7m	15
	The thin hand crack immediately L of ASCJ.
	Tim Whelan, Dave James, 26 Jan 2002.

176.	A Sister Called Jamaica	8m	17
	The arête at the left end of this small wall. Gear and holds found to the right of the arête.
	Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002

It is straightforward in reasonable swell conditions to traverse R around to another ledge and the following climbs.

177.	Seagulp	7m	15
	L of Bob the Kelp Kelpie, two cracks lead to a rounded flake jug. Climb the L crack first, then the R at the flake.
	Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002.

178.	Bob the Kelp Kelpie	7m	14
	If you won't get wet feet, step off the kelp onto the wall then mantleshelf.
	Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002.

Playstation

Don't blink or you'll miss it! The Playstation is situated about 10 minutes walk along the boulder beach and shore slabs from the SW end of Crescent Beach. Whilst it will never be a world class climbing destination, The Playstation provides an alternative destination if the swell is up, or there is a cold southerly at the other Mt Brown cliffs. Descent is simplest by down climbing at the southern end of the "cliff". Perhaps the most distinctive feature is a very neat and clean L-facing corner some 4m tall, to the left of which is a short hand-crack. The following climbs are described left to right from the corner. From the L end of the Playstation wall, another clifflet rises from sea level with an obvious horizontal break called "Lets Get Horizontal".

179.	Tims Route	7m	16
	The L-facing corner at sea-level, which may or may not be splashed by the wet stuff.
	Tim Whelan, Marcus Yong and Dave James, Jan 2002.

180.	Lets Get horizontal	10m	16
	A fun traverse of the horizontal, beginning higher on the slabs and finishing at the L end of the Playstation wall.
	Tim Whelan, Marcus Yong and Dave James, Jan 2002.

These routes start R of the blank and clean L-facing corner described above.

181.	Nintendo	5m	14
	The short wide chimney and R-facing corner.
	Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.

182.	Souper Mario	5m	15
	The crack system and overhanging block between Nintendo and Dreamcast.
	Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.

183.	Dreamcast	6m	15
	The L-facing corner and hand crack immediately L of Gameboy.
	Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.

184.	Gameboy	7m	18
	Beautiful climbing up the arête to the R.
	Dave James and Christian Wehba (TR), May 2001.

185.	Wet Wehbas Staircase	8m	12
	3m R of Gameboy a short R-tending crack leads to the large and easy corner.
	Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.

Standup Point

Standup Point is the rocky point south-east of the north end of Crescent Bay. The rock is pretty good; and the routes, while short, are generally very enjoyable. To get there, follow the shoreline from the end of the beach. At the first arch (you will know it when you see it), look for a track continuing to the point heading through the scrub (marked by a cairn.). Further along, you will pass a second arch, near which is a short wall with four distinctive cracks called (L-to-R): Double, Double, Toil, and Trouble. The point is not far past this; all up, about 20 minutes from the beach. Note: the Jackson family climbed here back in the early 90s and may have done some of the climbs listed here before (probably predominately top-roping), but no details were recorded.

★ 186.	Ripley Holden	10m	19	DWS
	Corner crack on west side of box shaped zawn 5 minutes from Crescent Bay.
	Nick Hancock Dec 2006.

★★ 187.	Blackpool	15m	22	DWS
	The high square arête to the right.
	Ken Palmer Dec 2006.

This mini-route is on the first ‘decent-sized’ wall closest to Crescent Bay, which faces E. It can be seen clearly from a vantage point opposite. Scramble down the easy ramp to get to the base (if you are inspired to climb it, that is).

188.	Lemon Ruski	7m	16
	The gritty and awkward hand crack.
	Dave James and John Stoukalo, circa 2002.

The following routes are on the most extensive buttress in the area, right at the tip of the point. To access the spacious ledge at the base, look for a scungy, slippery, and easy-angled corner and slide down this (taking care not to land in the water). A saner, more pleasant option is to abseil in. A good landmark for identifying routes is Free-Range, a fairly distinctive face at the L end of a small cirque of cute routes. About 25m R of this is a small, square cave, which is also a good landmark.

189.	Fuzzy Logic	7m	12
	10m L of and around the corner from Free-Range. The perpetually wet and impotently short hand-crack.
	Dave James and Ben Rhee, Jun 2002.

190.	Ascentionists Anonymous	10m	8
	The slabby corner is not really worth risking your life over to solo it, but it is actually pleasant enough beginner’s lead.
	Jul 2008.

191.	Digital Vertigo	12m	19
	The finger crack just L of Free-Range may be short, but it's pretty spicy. Climb the crack to the ledge, then hop up the square corner directly above.
	Dean Rollins and Dave James, Sep 2008.

192.	Free-Range	12m	14
	Climb the cool chicken-heads to the ledge, then step R to the short hand crack and up to the top. Unusual rock with some very nice, committing climbing.
	Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002.

193.	Udopian	12m	15
	Just a few metres R of Free-Range. Jam and stem the V-slot-chimney-hand-crack-thing.
	Dave James and Ben Rhee, Jun 2002.

194.	Rocquette Science	12m	14
	Up the shallow dihedral (or use flake on the R), then step L to slopey stance and motor up the pocketed head wall. Good climbing that is well protected by small to mid sized cams.
	Dave James and Dean Rollins, Aug 2008.

The cliff breaks down for a bit now, but never fear, climbable rock soon returns. The next routes start on a slightly elevated terrace at the R end of the cliff , which is gained with a tiny scramble about 20 m right of rocquette science, swell permitting. Or Abseil.

195.	Parachute Girl	14m	15
	Start at the featured off-width 5m L of the square cave. A slightly committing start leads to a welcome rest. Continue up the steep hand-crack in the corner.
	Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002.

196.	Know Your Chicken	15m	18
	The line starting at the L side of the square cave, with an interesting crux section up the fused-slot-thing at the top.
	Dean Rollins and Dave James, Sep 2008.

197.	Black Russian	15m	16
	R of the square cave. After a tricky start, follow the line to the top.
	Dave James and John Stoukalo, circa 2002.

The ledge at the base of the cliff terminates for a while, and the cliffs runs straight into the water. This provides an nice opportunity to flex one’s deep-water-soloing muscles.

★★ 198.	Hippy Chicks In The Styx	10m	22	DWS
	The face and blunt arête.
	Nick Hancock, Apr 2003.

★ 199.	Blow Me Zoe	15m	22	DWS
	The blunt arête to the R of Hippy Chicks.
	Mike Robertson, Apr 2003.

The following climbs are perhaps 15-20m further north (towards Port Arthur) and are approached by abseil. The rock is generally not as good, but it has its moments.

200.	Axis of Weevil	12m	15
	2m L of Enemy of the Steak, climb to a grass tussock and continue up the clean laser-cut corner to the L.
	Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002.

201.	Enemy of the Steak	10m	14
	The open-featured corner L of Smart Bong.
	Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002.

202.	Smart Bong	10m	15
	Layback and bridge the two flakes about 1m apart on the middle wall.
	Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002.

203.	Gravy Seals	10m	13
	Further R, start at featured wall below L end of ledge above. Up past hueco to ledge, then take rib on R to top. Spaced protection, and a shrub belay.
	Dave James and Dean Rollins, Sep 2008.

204.	Suicide Plumber	15m	14
	This route starts on the next ledge system down, below the manky roof up high. Climb features to the large ledge then bridge up the impending corner.
	Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002.