Northern Buttress

20 min uphill
Morning sun
Dolerite cracks, faces and ridges up to 50m
Introduction
Northern Buttress is the last major buttress at the right hand end of the cliff. Routes here are shorter, often easier to find and sunnier particularly if located on the Lower Cliff. If you are not familiar with the Pipes then climbing on this buttress is less likely to end in an epic encounter.

Descriptions begin with climbs at the left hand end of the buttress in the Darkside area. Around the toe of the conspicuous prow right of the Darkside, is the Lower Cliff where the majority of routes are found.

The skyline ridge of Northern Buttress is split halfway along by a gap in the ridge called the Notch. When viewed from the Lower Cliff, Buttress Pinnacle is the knob on the skyline immediately left of the Notch.
Access
Access to Northern Buttress is via a track that starts at the climbers' car park. Where this track meets the Organ Pipes track, continue directly opposite and up hill on the signposted track to Northern Buttress. The track first meets the cliff base at a conspicuous prow.

The Darkside is the cliff left of this prow which ends at Rockaway Gully and nearby Chockstone Gully which is the rock choked couloir that leads up to the rear of the Notch.

The Lower Cliff is immediately around the prow to the right.

Climbs from the Notch all start high up and are described in a section entitled as such. Sentinel Ridge, one of the routes that start from the Notch, follows the skyline ridge to the very top of the cliff above Kakapo Corner.

Routes on the Upper Cliff are shorter than those on the Lower Cliff and best accessed by abseiling in from the top of cliff down the line of Kakapo Corner to reach an access ledge at the base of the routes.

Descent: There are numerous rap stations on Northern Buttress. Check individual route descriptions for details.

The Darkside

Climbs in this area are in the shade and all start left of the conspicuous prow. From the toe of the prow, traverse left on a track at the base of the cliff then uphill to a rock choked couloir (Chockstone Gully). The first two routes start on the wall just left of the gully.
★ 1.Side Saddling Cheesecake 11m245Þ ↓ 
Short and sweet. Found on the wall left of Chockstone Gully. Climb the face and arête left of the crack up to the Jackson's Apprentices rap station.
N. Selby, 2001.
2.Jackson's Apprentices 11m24↓ 
Short, steep and strenuous. Follow the crack system up the middle of the wall just right of Side Saddling Cheesecake to the rap station.
Phil Steane (solo), Aug 1982. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, Oct 1982.
3.Chockstone Gully 46m7 ↓ 
Choked with large chockstones, this often damp couloir provides quick access to the Notch and Buttress Pinnacle. The huge rectangular chockstone bridging the top of the couloir is Chockstone Slab. The first 30m of the couloir is mainly a scramble ending at Chockstone Slab. Climb up the slab and continue to the Notch. Climb to the top of Buttress Pinnacle and rap station (50m).
Unknown, 1950s.
★★ 4.Skyline Minor 120m9 ↓ 
An historic route with several variations that follows the crest of Northern Buttress to finish on Buttress Pinnacle. Start at either the second or third chimney left of the conspicuous prow.
1a. 7mEasy Chimney - The left hand and less interesting chimney.
1b.Cruddy Chimney - The more exciting chimney to the right.
2. 40mScramble easily up to the right and join the skyline proper at the Second Platform.
3. 15mSkyline Traverse - Continue easily up to the foot of the next prominent crack (Curving Crack) where the ridge steepens. Right of this, climb up 5m onto the top of a block on the ridge crest. An exposed traverse leads 4m across the north face to a stance on top of the Canopy Chockstone of Pulpit Chimney.
4a. 15mWindow Wall - Up the face to the left of Window Crack.
4b.Window Crack - Up the crack on the left wall of the chimney, continuing right and through Bottleneck Chimney to the Third Platform.
4c.Bottleneck Passage - Squeeze through the tunnel behind the stance to the south side of the buttress, and climb 3m to the Third Platform.
4d.Bottleneck Chimney - A narrow continuation of Pulpit Chimney. Belay above the constriction at the level of the Third Platform.
5. 40mBottleneck Chimney - Climb up inside the wide chimney and at the top, cross over to the right of a large flake on the upper wall. Up airily on good holds until the angle eases, then up the slab and along the ridge to the Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m down through chockstones).
Unknown, but a route was completed to the Pinnacle by J. Peterson and D. Webber circa 1958.
5.Pelf 10m18 
The small buttress right of Cruddy Chimney (Skyline Minor pitch 1b) and left of Bollard Chimney. Climb the thin line up the left side of the wall. Walk and down climb off to the left.
E. Peacock (solo), Feb 1983.
★ 6.Pommy Slide 10m20 
Run out, this route shares the same start as Pelf. Climb Pelf to a 2.5 cam placement and step right. Climb the right side of the block to the top. Walk and down climb off to the left.
D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec 1987.
7.Bollard Chimney 10m15 
Distinguished by a group of prominent spikes at its foot, this route follows the first chimney left of the prow. Straight up the chimney, exiting left of the overhang. Walk off left.
Unknown.
★ 8.Sorrow 15m23 
Often wet, this route ascends the steep black streaked wall between Bollard Chimney and Southern Crack (Skyline Major pitch 1a). Climb the wall directly. Scramble off left.
M. Law, K. Carrigan, 1978.
9.Great Pets 18m23 
Climb the thin face and cracks a few metres right of Sorrow. Scramble off left.
D. Fife, Feb 1996.
★★ 10.Skyline Major 90m16↓ 
Entwined with Skyline Minor but significantly more taxing. Starts left of the conspicuous prow and follows the ridge crest more or less. Four variants lead to a belay on the first platform.
1a. 15m 10Southern Crack - The easiest variant that climbs the first major line left of the prow.
1b. 15mRight Hook - Starts up Southern Crack but traverses right after 5m to join up with the Nose.
1c. 15m 15The Nose - The hardest variant that starts 1m left of the nose of the prow.
1d. 15mLayback Crack - The only variant to start right of the prow. Up the first crack right of the prow to rejoin the other variants.
2. 15m 15Piton Crack - Up the cruxy vertical crack in the right facing corner. Belay on the second platform directly below a conspicuously flaring chimney.
3. 15m 15Curving Crack - Climb the awkward flaring chimney that lies left of the crest. Belay on a small ledge just over the top.
4a. 45m 16Step around right and climb a short ramp to reach the bottom of Bottleneck Chimney. Step through the chimney onto the Third Platform and climb the crack immediately left of the chimney. Follow the skyline crest to Buttress Pinnacle.
4b. 45m 9Bottleneck Chimney - Step around right and up the ramp to the bottom of Bottleneck Chimney. Climb the chimney (as for Skyline Minor) and continue along the crest to Buttress Pinnacle.
4c. 45mDeception Crack - Climb directly up the crack on the left from the Third Platform, then onto the summit of Buttress Pinnacle. Abseil from the rap station on the Buttress Pinnacle (50m through the chockstones and into the Chasm).
M. Douglas, T. Terry, Mar 1967. Piton Crack: R. Cox, R. Lidstone, 1962.

Lower Cliff

This section contains the majority of routes on Northern Buttress. The climbing consists of crack and face climbs up a steep wall and its sunny aspect makes the Lower Cliff a popular venue in the cooler months. Descent: There are individual rap stations for Raspberry Jam and Crackers (28m), All Systems Go (32m) and Centaur (48m). For other routes in the vicinity, scramble right along the crest to the Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m). The abseil descends in devious fashion through some large chockstones and directly down the Chasm. Further right Boys Games and CEMC are both equipped with rap stations.
11.Jump Ship 70m17↓ 
A rising traverse that connects the toe of the prow to Centaur to make three colourful pitches.
1. 30mStart at the layback option (1d) of Skyline Major. Climb this, then traverse across Raspberry Jam and Crackers to the right arête and bridge across Andromeda to the All Systems Go buttress. Traverse across, mantle up and keep traversing to belay on the Pulpit.
2. 25mFollow R-trending sickle crack of Reluctance to a prominent, protruding pedestal. Step on the very edge of this and bridge widely across Pulpit Chimney to Tearaway (crux). Continue up and around arête as for Tearaway, then traverse directly right across Conflict in the Cabal and Pegasus. From Pegasus, go diagonally up and right to reach Centaur. Belay 2m beneath a small roof below the hand crack of Centaur.
3. 15mClimb through the roof finishing up Centaur to the rap station (48m).
H. Jackson, S. Jarman (alt), Aug 1997.
★★★ 12.Raspberry Jam and Crackers 28m18↓  
Elegant face climbing on spaced but good protection. Once graded 17, harder now as most of the crux handhold has departed. Climb the wall just right of the corner past a fixed pin and hand traverse left above this to a small stance. Climb delicately up the thin face and flakes above (crux) to a small ledge at the base of a short corner. Up this and the short crack above. Abseil or lower-off from rap station (28m).
G. Body, B. Kennedy, L. Closs, Dec 1972.
★ 13.Frostbite's for Wusses 25m20↓  
Cold feet perhaps? The arête right of Raspberry Jam and Crackers and left of the Andromeda chimney. Gear difficult to place on lead, a non too secure wire pre-placed at crux on first ascent. Despite this a bold lead in the snow. Abseil as for Raspberry Jam.
K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jul 1997.
★ 14.Andromeda 26m14↓  
Once regarded as a serious and insecure climb, this route follows the first major chimney right of the prow. From the base of the chimney climb the line directly to a ledge. Continue up to the Raspberry Jam and Crackers rap station (28m).
Top roped by T. Christie, G. Wyatt, Feb 1965. First led by R. Williams, Mar 1967.
★ 15.Discipline 32m20↓ 
Contrived but surprisingly good climbing on the arête right of Andromeda. Climb straight up the arête past a small roof (crux), taking care not to stem across the Andromeda chimney. Climb the finger crack above and step right to continue up the wall just left of All Systems Go to its belay ledge. Descend using the All Systems Go rap station.
N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Dec 1990.
★★ 16.All Systems Go 32m18↓ 
Ready, set, go. Advanced route finding up the wall left of the Pulpit. Take double ropes or long slings.
Follow the short crack left of the Pulpit, trending left up the flakes to the small rooflet, then hand traverse back right to the top of the Pulpit (alternatively, just go direct up the crack as for Reluctance). Climb the wall/arete above to a flake that accepts micro-cams and small wires, followed by a thin traverse left to some black streaks (crux). Up, then undercling back out right and follow the crack to the lower-off (32m).
R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, 1976.
★ 17.Reluctance 36m20↓ 
The wall directly above the Pulpit that requires a certain degree of composure. Climb the crack left of the pulpit and stand on top, then continue up the finger crack and wall above via an invigorating flake (small cams useful). From here, either step left to a ledge and bail out easily up All Systems Go, or better, continue up the wall to the right. Descend using the All Systems Go rap anchors.
N. Deka, J. Richardson, Apr 1980. Direct Finish: N. Deka, F. Moon, Jan 1989.
18.The Pulpit 10m13↓ 
Two short alternative starts to Pulpit Chimney. Start as for All Systems Go and follow the large rectangular flake just left of Pulpit Chimney.
1a. 10m 13Start up the short crack on the left hand side of the flake and follow it all the way to the top of the Pulpit.
1b. 10m 9Climb the short crack, traverse across the face of the Pulpit and then finish up the crack on the right to belay on top of the Pulpit. Either rap off or climb the wall above via a dog-legged crack onto a ledge which leads into Pulpit Chimney.
Unknown, circa 1960.
★★ 19.Pulpit Chimney 75m12↓ 
One of the few good easier routes on the Pipes. The route follows the major chimney midway between the prow and the Chasm.
1. 40mClimb the chimney up past the detached chockstones to a ledge below the Canopy Chockstone. Move right onto the face, then move thoughtfully left to a recess above the canopy chockstone to belay.
2. 35mContinue up the chimney and along the crest to Buttress Pinnacle rap station.
T. Christie, G. Wyatt, 1964.
20.Pulpit Crack 62m20↓ 
Somewhat contrived as it is possible to step left into the Chimney at the crux. Starts towards the back of the Chimney on the right hand wall.
1. 40mClimb straight up the crack to belay on top of chockstone.
2. 12mClimb the finger crack in a corner on the right wall.
3. 10mTraverse right and downclimb to the Centaur rap station (48m).
S. Parsons, A. Adams, 1982.
★★ 21.Tearaway 56m18↓ 
Thought-provoking. The crack system in the right hand wall of Pulpit Chimney offers an excellent sustained pitch.
1. 38m 18Climb up the Chimney a couple of metres until you can step right into the crack. Follow this and the vague weakness onto the arete. Continue up this before stepping back left to follow the wide crack (Great Flake) to a ledge. The belay is awkward to construct. RPs and a #4 camalot are handy.
2. 12m 14Continue up the crack on the right hand side and through the bulge as for Pegasus.
3. 6mTraverse right and downclimb to the Centaur rap station (48m).
D. Hain, K. Kiernan, Jan 1975.
★★ 22.Conflict In The Cabal 58m20↓ 
No conspiracies here except perhaps the spaced protection on the top section.
1. 40m 20Follow Subterfuge to the vee under the roof then continue straight up instead of stepping around the arête. Continue straight up the face of the Great Flake to belay on top where a #4 camalot comes in handy.
2. 12m 14From the top of the Great Flake finish up Pegasus to the top.
3. 6mTraverse right and downclimb to the Centaur rap station (48m).
E. Peacock, L. Bottomley, Nov 1991.
★★★ 23.Subterfuge 58m20↓ 
The bold start is a great test for self-doubters. The line up the arête between Pegasus and Pulpit Chimney. Take some RPs.
1. 40m 20Climb up to the thin crack which splits the bulge. Move up to a rest below a small overhang. Veer left past this and climb the spectacular arête to the top of the Great Flake.
2a. 12m 14From the top of the Great Flake finish up Pegasus to the top.
2b. 15m 20/23If you are still feeling bold, finish up Monster Match.
3. 6mTraverse right and downclimb to the Centaur rap station (48m).
D. Fife, A. Adams, Phil Steane, Nov 1982.
★★ 24.Pegasus 58m14↓ 
Uncompromising and sustained for the grade. Take baby cams and wires for the chimney and a couple #4 camalots for the fist crack. Start 4m right of Pulpit Chimney at a chimney with two chockstones. Originally the route finished by traversing left at the steep bulge and into Bottleneck chimney.
1. 52mClimb to the chockstones then up to enter the chimney. Up the chimney, then climb the corner above to reach a ledge at the top of the Great Flake. A belay here is possible, but awkward to set up. Continue up the fist crack to the next ledge, then up the steep bulge in the corner (crux) past another ledge to the top.
2. 6mTraverse right and downclimb to the Centaur rap station (48m). .
Unknown circa 1961. Direct finish, T. Terry, A. Cross, Nov 1965.
★ 25.Monster Match15m20/23 
Climbs the exposed, shallow corner between Pegasus direct and Xanthos. Originally accessed by climbing the first 30m of Xanthos, but best matched with Subterfuge pitch 1. From a belay at the top of the great flake, head right and up to a small roof (good protection), then up left into shallow corner with no protection for ~ 6m until a single good mid-sized wire can be placed before the crux exiting the corner by either stretching R to the steep crack (20), or up the corner direct (23).
H Jackson and T Smith (20 variant); HJ and Dave the neurologist (23 variant 2012)
★ 26.Xanthos48m19↓ 
Sustained, steep climbing that some might see as a mere construct, a gap filler, and so it is... The climbing however is surprisingly good and in places really steep. Takes a distinct and separate direct line up the face between Pegasus and Centaur. Protection is a bit sparse and difficult to arrange requiring lateral thinking in places.
1. 33m 19Start at the base of the cliff to the right of Pegasus and follow a line straight up the wall, keeping roughly equidistant between the two neighbouring climbs. Follow a faint arête to the right of Pegasus (crux) to a small spike when a step left can be made to the top of the Pegasus flake.
2. 15m 17Step back right onto the wall and trend up and gradually right keeping out of the Centaur crack. Up a steep wall past a good runner to the excellent finishing crack.
T. McKenny, P. Robinson, Feb 2009.
★★★ 27.Centaur 48m17↓ 
A popular classic that goes nicely as one big pitch. This fine direct line starts midway between Pegasus and the Chasm. Climb up on face holds to the foot of a black groove then continue straight up the ever steepening crack through a small roof and hand crack above. Continue up and over a chockstone (crux) just below the top. Traverse right 1m and up to the rap station (48m).
Some bits: A. Cross, R. Lawson, et al, Nov 1965. Other bits: J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.
28.Adventure before Dementia18m19↓ 
Best do it soon before you forget. Takes the left hand arête of the Chasm. Start to the right of Centaur and climb the face till it steepens. Layback the edge to the top (crux). Protection adequate but a bit sparse – RPs are the go. Belay as for Sideshow.
T. McKenny, A. Adams, A. Brooks, Mar 2009.
★ 29.Sideshow 12m18↓ 
Companion line to Crasm Chack which also provides a good alternative start to Centaur. Start up the thin crack on the left wall near the front of the Chasm. Climb the steep finger and hand crack to a small ledge on the arête. Either abseil from the chain or continue up the right-facing corner, past the scary flakes (as in Crasm Chack), then traverse left to join Centaur and so on to the top.
D. Fife, A. Adams, Phil Steane, Nov 1982.
30.Crasm Chack30m20 
With sparse protection on the loose crux, the boys were feeling bold when they led this one. Start inside the Chasm on the left wall just right of Sideshow. Step left and up past loose holds (crux) to gain the thin crack line which splits the wall. Follow this and a line of loose flakes on the arête until it is possible to chimney up and belay on the large chockstones at the top of the Chasm. Note - A big rock has come out of the upper section (Feb 2012).
S. Parsons, D. Fife, Phil Steane, Nov 1982.
31.The Chasm 48m11↓ 
A cavernous chimney splits the right side of the Lower Cliff, into which the abseil from Buttress Pinnacle descends. The route starts at the very back of the Chasm in the chimney on the left.
1. 30m 11Chasm Chimney: A fine chimney pitch giving access to the southern side of the buttress towards the top of Chockstone Gully.
2a. 18mContinue as from pitch (4) of the Labyrinth.
2b. 18Direct Finish. This pitch follows the continuation of the Chasm fracture to the top of the Buttress Pinnacle. From the base of Chockstone Slab climb to the top of a semi-detached flake on the R wall. Step L into the main V-chimney and continue up the crack to the top.
P. Sands, J. Spinks, 1960. Direct Finish: A. Bush, P. Robinson, Apr 1975.
32.The Labyrinth 56m9↓ 
This route has many variants and is worth adding to your list of tight chimneys. Take a head torch and a sense of humour. Leaving your ego at home is also advisable. A massive sandbag at the grade! The route starts at the very back of the Chasm at the dark chimney on the right.
1.The Stripper: Energetic body-width manoeuvring in the dark, not suited to the portly. A narrow squeeze leads to the northern face at the foot of The Little Chasm. Climbs on Little Chasm Buttress arrive at the same point.
2a. 8The Little Chasm: Climb the chimney to the next cave.
2b. 12The Stripper Direct: Continue up the original chimney to a chockstone and then back to a stance in the Little Chasm, ‘Godiva's Cavern.’
3a.The Little Chasm continued: An interesting pitch onto the suspended chockstone.
3b.Stripper Direct continued: A diagonal chimneying traverse leads across the top of the Chasm to the base of Chockstone Slab.
4a.Climb easily up the slab to the Notch.
4b.Killer Crack: This strenuous crack lies on the right above the suspended chockstone. Above the crack a short wall leads to the Notch.
4c.Chockstone Crack: Under the chockstone, on the north wall of the gully, overlooking the Chasm, a steep crack leads up towards the Notch.
5.Balcony Traverse: A short traverse across the N.W. face of the summit block of Buttress Pinnacle to The Balcony, a large ledge 6m below the summit of the Pinnacle.
6a.Balcony Crack: A stiff crack leads directly from The Balcony to the skyline a few metres from the summit of Buttress Pinnacle.
6b.The Chicken Run: Traverse along The Balcony and back along the skyline.
Various stages attributed to T. Christie, R. Cox, R. Lawson, B. Potter, B. Proudlock, T. Terry, G. Wyatt, 1962-64. Stripper Direct: T. Christie, A. Keller, Feb 1966.
★★ 33.Mira Mira33m28Þ 
"Mira mira on the wall, who's the fairest of them all?" The line of bolts on the R side of the chasm which links up to Vanity. A funky, bouldery start leads to a lovely technical head-wall. Stick-clip the first bolt and avoid the temptation to bridge across to the other side near the top of the chasm. Finish as for Vanity up to DBB. Fully Bolted, Grade to be confirmed.
N. Perndt, April 2013
★★ 34.Vanity 35m25Þ ↓ 
A sustained route up the Excellence buttress protected by 4 bolts plus some gear. Start up the easy line right of the Chasm (approach from the right) to gain the left end of the blocky pillar. Move straight up the thin wall (gear then bolts) to the horizontal break, traverse right reversing the Excellence undercling (gear) - and climb the right side of the face (bolts) to the top.
C. Shepherd, 1984.
★★ 35.Excellence 35m22↓ 
An exciting climb up the steep buttress to the right of The Chasm. Scramble to the top of a blocky pillar below a short right facing corner on the right side of the buttress. Start up the corner but step around left and climb the face (little protection) to the small roof. Undercling left n the horizontal break and climb the steep finger crack to easier ground.
S. Parsons, A. Herington, Dec 1982.
36.Little Chasm Buttress 22m10 
Three small introductory routes, which can be used to bypass the first pitch of the Labyrinth. Start at the base of the buttress below the Little Chasm. Three alternatives: (a) Opossum Crack: From the right hand side of the entrance to the Chasm, climb the crack/chimney between the buttress and the main cliff. (b) Little Chasm Wall: Start at the left of two large semi-detached boulders at the front of the buttress. Ascend the boulders and continue, first left then right, to the top. (c) The crack to the right of the detached boulders.
Little Chasm Wall: R. Bennett, T. Christie, Oct 1965. Opossum Crack: T. Christie, F. Morley, May 1966.
★ 37.Boy's Games 30m229Þ ↓ 
A popular climb up the front of the buttress right of Excellence. Start by scrambling up the gully to the right Little Chasm Buttress then back left to a DBB at the start of the climb. Follow the bolts to the small ledge, then negotiate the overlap with some tricky and technical moves, and continue up the face to rap station. Fully bolted. Use DBB at base of route to rap back to the ground.
R. Parkyn, 1992.
★ 38.Pension Day20m209Þ ↓  
Unlikely but interesting climbing on the next buttress to the right. Scramble up the initial gully as for Boy's Games to a U-bolt. Surprising: devious games in the vertical plane.
Climb the face direct until forced left onto the arête. Continue up using the wall further left until it is possible to move back onto the face and right arête. At the top of the short hand crack, step up and hand traverse back right onto the hanging face. Stay on the steep wall to the top and a rap station
S. Scott and T. McKenny, Feb 2016.
These next climbs on the Plomat buttress are reached by scrambling up to the right of Little Chasm Buttress. Instead of going left to Boys Games, go right which takes you to the base of Game On.
★★ 39.Game On28m2110Þ ↓ 
On the buttress uphill and R of Boys' Games and just to the L of the Plomat chimney. Goes to the belay for the second pitch of CEMC.
Roger Parkyn, Claudio Trefny, Steven Goss, Nick Hancock, Aug 2011.
40.Plomat40m16 
The chimney line 10m R of Little Chasm.
1. 24mFollow the off-width/chimney past an old peg to a good ledge.
2. 9mContinue up the tight chimney behind or over the big, dangerously loose block and out around the top one.
3. 7mUp to join third pitch of Sentinel Ridge.
R. McMahon, L. Closs, Sep 1973.
★ 41.CEMC36m22Þ ↓ 
Climbing Edge Memorial Climb. Premature perhaps as the Hobart climbing gym has undergone a new incarnation? Starts 13m right of Little Chasm, 3m further up the steep scramble right of Plomat.
1. 20m 20Up hand crack for 7m till its possible to break out L to the face. Up this past 5 U-bolts to the ledge and single U-bolt belay. Gear required #.5 #2 and #3 Camalots. Walk L along ledge to the arête.
2. 16m 22Up the arête. If you finish up the 3m finger crack it is about 21 (requires #.4 and #.5 Camolots). Alternatively, if you finish up the face it is about 22. Abseil from rings.
G. Phillips, J. Bresnehan, Dec 2010.
★★ 42.Osteomen20m2310Þ ↓ 
The arête right of CEMC. The first section can be climbed on either side of the arête, leading to a good rest before the steep finish. The crux is passing the last bolt.
D. Stephenson, S. Scott and T. McKenny, May 2018.
43.Hand Jive8m20 
Steep, technical crack climbing, with an unprotected face to finish. Directly below Kakapo Corner, the small east facing buttress is split by a clean hand crack which can be easily reached by scrambling further up and right right. Climb the crack past a bulge to the top of the flake, and then up the short wall to the top.
Originally graded 18 in 1989, Dave re-led the climb nearly 30 years after his first ascent and decided it had been a tad under graded!
D. Stephenson, N. Deka, J. Otlowski, May 1989.

Climbs from the Notch

These routes are acessed from Buttress Pinnacle and are usually done after a climb on the Lower Cliff. They all start in close vicinity to the Notch which is accessed by an 8m abseil from the Buttress Pinnacle rap station.
Descent off these routes is a hassle. Neither Yugi nor Flying Grandfather have their own rap stations. The best option is to rap off the top U-bolt on Flying Grandfather. Alternately join Sentinel Ridge which is then followed to the top of the Organ Pipes. The best way off from here is to down climb nearby Exit Entry (see Rockaway and Amphitheatre area) or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station and walk back down and around past the Darkside to the Lower Cliff.
★★★ 44.Sentinel Ridge70m14 
An atmospheric alpine style excursion that threads its way up the pinnacle skyline of Northern Buttress. Best combined with a route on the Lower Cliff that finishes on Buttress Pinnacle such as Skyline Minor or Centaur. Abseil 8m into the Notch, then cross the chockstone and scramble up the groove opposite for 4m to a belay ledge.
1. 15mHand traverse 4m left and climb up into the base of a hidden corner. Climb the short hand crack into a chimney, then climb outside the chimney or negotiate the tight squeeze inside to exit onto a platform.
2. 16mStep up into the cavity, squeeze over a chockstone and exit through the back of the chimney. Up left over a bulge to gain the crest. Cross the ridge crest, step down to the right, then bridge across and mantle with care onto a belay ledge on the right side of the next pinnacle.
3a. 17Seldom done and harder than it looks. Climb the thin crack left of the chimney to an old peg, then up the ever widening zig zag crack.
3b. 12mThe more popular variant that is easier than it looks. Climb the chimney past the slack line bolt, sling the chockstone and turn it on the left side to stand on top. Continue up the chimney to exit around right and up onto a ledge.
4. 15mThe pitch everyone fights over to lead. Directly above is a tantalising gap in the skyline. Up into the gap, then step across left and scramble up. Move back right to the top of the pinnacle, stand up and feel the exposure. Fix a couple RPs into the arete opposite, step gingerly across the gap and commit to the move up and onto the belay ledge opposite. Scary, but the RP placements help!
5. 5mTurning the pinnacle on either side is possible. However turning it on the right is recommended as it is better protected for the person climbing second. Step down off the ledge, follow the traverse right, descend carefully into the notch, cross it and belay on top of the short pillar opposite.
6a. 16A diificult variant that is out of character and best avoided. Climb up left of the skyline to a platform some 5m below the top of the cliffs. Climb the choked crack on the right.
6b. 7mThe classic variant. Turn, face the city, slide into the body chimney and traverse to the chockstone at the back. Finish up the dual handcracks. Combining pitches 5 and 6b is possible with the judicious arrangement of protection. To descend, down climb nearby Exit Entry or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station and walk back down to the Lower Cliff.
Unknown, 1962-65. Zigzag Crack: A. Keller, K. Sparrboom, May 1968.
45.Tombstone Direct15m15 
Desperate stuff. Take care on this old-school climb, or you may end up with your own premature tombstone. Start as for Sentinel Ridge at the Notch, directly opposite the Northern Buttress rap station, on the east face of the Tombstone. Up the short crack and the chimney above.
M. McHugh, R. McMahon, C. Viney, Mar 1970.
★★ 46.Yugi Crack15m26Þ↓ 
On the east face of the Tombstone, as for Tombstone Direct. Climb the short crack (#1 to #3 Camelot) to a small overlap, under cling out R and follow the thin crack line to the top.
G. Phillips, G.Rowbottom, Mar 2011.
★ 47.Flying Grandfather18m20 
Mixed climbing, take a rack as well as your quick draws. Starts on the wall and cracks opposite the main rap station. Scramble over to the base of the wall from the Notch, 8m right of the Yugi Crack, and traverse right and up to gain a crack in the corner, just round the arête. Up the finger and hand crack, through the roof until it is possible to break out left (crux) onto the face. Up this past 3 bolts, lower off from the top one.
G. Phillips, W. Bartlet, Feb 2011.
48.Teenage Rockstars 15m19 
Move up and right from the Notch to the north side of the Tombstone. Climb the steep widening crack between Flying Grandfather and Rosey Specs Crack.
M. Law, D. Bowman, Feb 1978.
49.No Longer Champions 30m16 
A quaint pitch. Start in the crack immediately right of Teenage Rockstars, and about 15m lower down in some bushes. Climb the jam crack through a bulge and over a bush to a roof. Traverse left under the roof to make an airy step onto a lichenous sloping ledge. Continue to top.
E. Peacock, S. Ford, Nov 1991.
50.Rosey Specs Crack 25m17 
Scene of some early epics. Start a couple of metres above the Notch where small holds lead 3m right to the chimney on the north side of the Tombstone. Follow the chimney past a ledge until a crack can be reached on the left. Jam a couple of metres up the crack and then follow a line right to another crack that continues to the top.
L. Closs, B. Kennedy, Oct 1970.

Upper Cliff

Routes on this section of Northern Buttress are best accessed by driving to the summit, walking down and rapping in. To access the base of the routes, build your own anchor and rap in from where Sentinel Ridge tops out, descending the conspicuous line of Kakapo Corner to reach the access ledge from where all routes start. Access from the bottom is possible but is now scrubby and difficult.

Descent: Reverse the walk back uphill to the summit. If you have accessed these routes from the Lower Cliff, either down climb nearby Exit Entry (see Rockaway and Amphitheatre area) or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station (50m) and walk back around Northern Buttress past the Darkside to the Lower Cliff.
A climb called Drunks Dilemma was put up in this area in 1962 by Penny, Lidstone and Peterson. It cannot be located from the original description.
★★ 51.Cascade Crack25m25 
Previously an old aid line which has been has been cleaned, retro-bolted and freed. This route was so named because a whiskered gentleman taunted the first ascensionists with cans of beer. It originally started on the Lower Cliff right of Plomat, but the first two pitches can no longer be traced and it is now climbed solely for the final pitch. From the summit walk down and locate the top of Sentinel Ridge. Rap in from gear here down the line of Kakapo Corner to access the large ledge at the base of the Upper Cliff.
Up the difficult thin crack that splits the face past three bolts (technical crux), followed by a very sustained finger and hand crack to a lower-off. Well-protected by small-medium wires and cams.
A. Keller, J. Veasey, Apr 1969. FFA: E. Peacock, Jan 1994.
52.Teddy Bear's Picnic 20m19 
The obvious corner crack left of Kakapo Corner that is not a picnic. Jam very awkwardly up the crack gaining a few rests on small ledges. Continue as for Sentinel Ridge.
P. Cullen, K. Rosebery, B. Kennedy, 1977.
★ 53.Kakapo Corner 20m21 
Flightless parrots might find themselves in a flap. Follows a shallow corner that meets the final pitch of Sentinel Ridge. Abseil to the ledge and jam the flake to the base of the corner. Continue past a short thin crux move to the top. Finish up the final pitch of Sentinel Ridge.
D. Bowman, L. McLeod, Dec 1977. FFA: M. Law, D. Bowman, Feb 1978.
54.The Nongs Are On Next 35m18 
The idiots have long since gone, but not the vegetation. The third line right of Kakapo Corner, best accessed from the top by abseil.
1. 17mUp the wide vegetated crack to a big bushy ledge with large tea tree.
2. 18mSurmount the large tea tree with difficulty or aid and then up the clean hand crack to the top.
A. Adams, G. Cooper, Jan 1991.
55.The Numbwaiter 45m19 
Wide but reputedly interesting. 10m right of Kakapo Corner, at the far right hand end of Northern Buttress, two facing corners form a shallow wide chimney. Climb the right hand crack until forced to chimney, then follow the left hand crack to the top.
N. Deka, D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, May 1989.
 
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5 Comments

  1. David Stephenson

    50.Hand Jive8m18

    This is really on the lower cliff, and should be moved to appear immediately after

    ★ 40.CEMC

     

    1. Tony McKenny

      Think it is sorted now, Dave, and Cascade Crack re-edited as well. Topo needs re-paginating though.

  2. David Stephenson

    ★ 13.Frostbite's for Wusses

    I climbed this on a top rope around 1990, probably the same time as Discipline. Didn't lead it as it would have required fiddling around with pre-placed pro which wasn't really our approach.

  3. Phil Robinson

    It was called ‘Frostbite for Wusses’ because the hands were a bit cold to start with, it was mid-winter, July.

    Not cold feet, as the description suggests, not sure what that comment is hinting at, there was just some snow on the ground.

    The pre placed gear (1 or 2 very dodgy wires) would have popped if Kim (then only 17yrs old) had fallen,

    so effectively a kind of solo (grade 20) lead really.

     

  4. Maximo Lopez

    Climbed Centaur today, big lose block underneath the crack before the roof, havent climbed it in about a year so cant remember if it was there then but it felt like it would go ground/belayer-wards very quickly if yanked on. 
    Climb safe. 

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