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Any one have a list of the classic wide cracks from fist cracks up?
I have been thinking about it and there doesn't seem to be that very many of them or the wide sections are really short. Here are some:
Pipeline, Rondeau
Daedalus, Galah Performance, The Shield, Atlantis, Savage Journey
My mind is blank can someone please help me find more.
Also wouldn't mind knowing what beard stroker's and bumbles rate as tassies best chimney?
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18 Comments
Tony McKenny
Wow, you are certainly going to get a massive response to your questions if you are going to use labels like “beard strokers and bumblies”... so subtle, like the proverbial brick on a daffodil.
Gerry Narkowicz
I wrote an article for Rock magazine about 10 years ago outlining Tassies classic cracks of all sizes. I rated Longknife (13) at Duck Reach as the best chimney. As far as other wide cracks go:
Frews Flutes: 35mm Dream - fists, Accursed Land (21) - all widths, Roger Casement (20) - fists and offwidth, Powerdive (21) - Ben Maddison fell 20m out of this offwidth
Ragged Jack - Its a Long Way to Tipperary (21) offwidth - worst I've been on, facing 30m fall in days before big cams, The Landing (21 - fists;
Pavement Bluff - Burning Bridges (21) - horror offwidth; Das Reich (20) - worse offwidth, Blitzkrieg (19) - fists; Long Range Desert Group (15) - classic chimney
Stacks: No Blind and Blue Eyed Sun, Overhanging Like A Sausage
Africa - Source of the Nile (19) - a 100m chimney/chasm. Kurtz - 30m fist crack second pitch
Frenchmans - the Great Flake (22) - many wide cracks including 3m offwidth roof
Duck Reach - the Crux and Beyond (20) - fist
Blackwood Rocks - American Woman (23) - chimney to offwidth to fists, to hands, to fingers, to face - fully bolted
Cataract Gorge - Offal (fists) - gnarly sharks teeth crack
Grap Fureau - Abracadabra (20) - offwidth led on custom made wooden chocks
Pubic Flash Buttress South Esk - Violation (21) - truly horrible offwidth through a couple of roofs
Inchman Crag Hazards - Inchman (20)
Flinders Island - Suck Me Up the Funnel of Death (27) - hardest wide crack in Tassie and best name for an offwidth I've heard.Looks appalling
Danger Darren
Thanks G man, I rate long knife its rad.
Gerry Narkowicz
I noticed that a huge loose rock has appeared on top of the first large chockstone half way up the chimney - it must have fallen down in recent times. It is teetering on the edge, so when you chin up over the chockstone the leader will be confronted with a nasty obstacle. It was too heavy for me to push off, but it rocks back and forth. A crow bar, or 2 people needed to get rid of it.
Danger Darren
Figured if there wasn't a small war no one would be interested and since all the climbers left in tas fall into these two categories it was a sure bet. I prefer name calling to bolted chimneys if that helps with my appeal to the mass's. And my favorite chimney is the little pea pod at up hill buttress in the gorge, its a great value climb.
Stefan Karpiniec
It's OK Tony. Those without beards are most likely stroking something else.
Tony McKenny
I think we probably rank as beardless crumblies by now, Stefan.
Stefan Karpiniec
Grow a beard Tony. Preserve your reputation.
Jon Nermut
How about nefertiti?
dave james
'angels of imagination' at cape raoul has an incredible chimney pitch
Claudio Trefny
Hey Daz how about "Hugs N Kisses" (23) at travel land in Freycinet. I want to watch.
Danger Darren
What is the hardest wide crack in tas?
Stefan Karpiniec
That initial list seems to suggest that nobody has been climbing wide cracks much since the seventies......
Danger Darren
No one has really climbed in tas since the 70's..
Stefan Karpiniec
So I haven't missed anything!
Al Adams
The Labyrinth on Northern Buttress is worth adding to your list of tight chimneys. Take a head torch and a sense of humour..... leaving your ego at home is also advisable.... A massive sandbag at the grade.... nine!
Doug Bruce
Tight is right. Haven't been on it for a long time but it's almost a subterranean experience - in one place not unlike the horizontal chimney in Mystery Creek Cave. And here's a bit of trivia from the past: Di did the Labyrinth with our daughter Yolanda when she was about 10. They had fun ... but Di has always enjoyed chimneys ... and Yolanda doesn't climb anymore!
Al Adams
I agree it is more akin to caving than climbing - 'squeeze' is the preferred terminology to use here! Interesting coincidence with that of Di and Yolanda- I took my stepson and his mate up it 25 years ago... I don't think either them fully appreciated the experience at the time either.
I daresay the giveaway sign is that this variant of the Labyrinth its own unique name... in this case the 'Stripper.' I returned to the Stripper just a little over two years ago to refresh my memory.... I found I couldn't fit my lardy arse through the back of the chimney... there was no way! You need to relax and grunt simultaneousy...
So I elected to traverse out towards the daylight and climb it where it was wider. and scarier without runners. Andrew Klees who followed me up it reckoned it was harder than Subterfuge which he'd led earlier in the day.... He said something along the lines of "Grade 9, pig's arse!" Very old school indeed... one for Danger Darren's list for sure!