The Needles

	25-70min uphill
	All day sun except the west side of The Thimble, which has afternoon sun.
	Flaky weathered quartzite

Acknowledgement

By Tony McKenny. Updated by Phil Robinson 14 May 2024

Introduction

Travelling west towards Lake Pedder and Strathgordon, the white quartzite fingers of the Needles (GR 555696, Tasmap 4426, 1:25 000) stand out starkly on the Humboldt Divide, inevitably catching the eye of any passing climber. With stunning 360degree views over the South West ranges, from Mt Anne to the south and to Mt Olympus in the north, the range is a popular destination for bush walkers but until 2012 onwards nothing seems to have been recorded of any previous rock climbing. The TUMC and TUCC certainly visited the area as have other individuals over the years but details or even any comments on the potential of the area were sketchy to say the least.

Access

The crags are about 100km from Hobart, about 1hr 30mins drive. From Hobart drive north-west on the Brooker Highway (A10) to New Norfolk and then follow the winding road of B61/B62, passing Mt Field, Tyenna and Maydena. Park at the Humboldt Divide car park 16.5km past Maydena at the “Highest Point on Road” sign (elevation 651m). The walking track starts across the road directly opposite the sign, sometimes marked by a cairn. A little way in, before climbing the hill there is a logbook in a metal box. The Needles summit by the well-trodden track is an hour’s climb from the road if you want to go that far - about 400m to the summit (1020m) and a distance of about 1.5km. Views are wonderful on a clear day.
The track passes a number of “Needles” on the way, while away to the east and visible from the first col on the ridge are further impressive cliffs.
Unfortunately, The Needles were burnt by the severe fires throughout the SW in the summer of 2019. However, ground cover is returning with many plants and shrubs endemic to the heaths and button grass sedgelands of western Tasmania reappearing.

Crag Steward

Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (southwest@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

The Thimble

The first buttress to be reached at the col (25 mins walk) is the Thimble, a large block of quartzite with a long northerly slab on one side and a shorter wall to the west.

★ 1.

Thunder Thimble

50m

10

1.	Start at the lowest point of the buttress and take an indistinct crack directly up the front of the pillar. Follow this to a good thread at the base of a large detached block. Easily avoid this on its left and climb up to belay at the foot of the corner (possible belay for Northern Slab). A lovely pitch.

2.	Follow the corner to the top.

C. Wansborough, P. Pritchard 6/1/24

2.	Northern Slab	50m	6
	Easy climbing up solid rock, a great introductory route for beginners – or a pleasant ramble for the tyro! Scramble easily down the back to rejoin the main track.
	P. Robinson 2012

★ 3.	Stitched Up	28m	14
	Threads a line up the middle off the west face of the Thimble. Start just to the R of a tree towards the RH end of the steep face, climb up and slightly L to follow a direct line to the very top. Thoughtful climbing on generally sound rock with spaced but adequate gear.
	T. McKenny, P. Robinson and S. Scott, Feb 2015.

★ 4.	Stitch 2	28m	15
	The next line right of Stitched Up (see topo).
	P.Robinson Jan. 2018

★ 5.	Stitch 3	28m	16
	The next line right of Stitch 2 (see topo). Through a bulge at the bottom and another high up.
	P.Robinson Jan. 2018

The Fife Needle

6.	The Fife Needle	30m	6
	Just before the path reaches The Thimble it passes another tower to the right (west). The Fife Needle is smaller and more amenable than The Thimble and is perfect for beginners of those with lesser ability. The route climbs straight up the face of the tower in 2 short pitches. Descend easily off the back.
	C. Wansborough, P. Pritchard 1 Jan 2024

The Thumb

On the opposite side of the walking track, west from The Thimble and above Fife’s Needle is another block of quartzite with overlapping rock, facing N, The Thumb.

★ 7.

Reach for the Sky

26m

15

Up the centre of the cliff through three overlaps.
An easy angle start leaves to progressively harder and entertaining overlaps.

P. Robinson 12-01-24 (with support from J. Robinson)

8.

Jaggernaut

25m

9

The face on right side of The Thumb followed by a jagged arete to the summit, a few metres R of 'Reach for the Sky'.
Directly up the slab to a ledge on the arete. Follow the sharp rocky arete to the summit. Surprising solid, well mostly, but take care.
Whilst the W side of the Thimble is very juggy, it is probably not the best place to solo.

P. Robinson 12-01-24

Avatar Cliff

This large crag across the valley to the east of The Thimble is visible from the col and has a classic line right up the middle. From the Thimble, take the easiest line downhill and across the valley (20-25min.). Burnt out in 2019 so access easier.

★ 9.

Avatar

65m

16

Start climbing at the foot of the crag in the middle below a corner which is steeper than it looks. The rock is generally sound but take care.
1. 30m	Climb the short wall R of the cave to reach the corner and follow it straight up to where it steepens (crux). From the ledge, continue up the rock on the L to a comfortable grassy ledge with a tall tea tree.
2. 35m	Up the steep wall for a few metres where the angle eases and follow the face and ridge to the top. Good pro is infrequent but the climbing easier.

P.Robinson, C.Rathbone March 2015

Needle Buttress

The main track to the Needles summit continues climbing up south from the Thimble and passes close to a prominent needle of rock with a very impressive arête/face.

★ 10.	Suture	25m	15
	Starting at the very toe of the buttress, climb up and over the overlaps, stepping awkwardly R and up at the second one. Up the slabs to the steep finish.
	S. Scott, P. Robinson and T. McKenny, Feb 2015.

Crack Den

The series of buttresses and ridges below the Needles summit. Partly viewable from the hiking trail access, walking down from the hiking trail after passing Needle Buttress. The nature of the rock requires some care and consideration, this is part of the experience and participants would be unwise to expect no loose or questionable rock...(Eds. comment. Does this mean b---- loose?
It is conceivable and likely that some of these routes were climbed by the original Tasmanians. In addition, Phil Robinson reports the ridges here were climbed by TUMC members in the 1970s. Descriptions and names below by Dave James not offered as first ascents.

11.

Injection

110

9

1. 55m	starting on right side of ridge where weakness continues onto easy slabs following ridge as desired.
2.	55m continue up slabs alpine style to col where ridge breaks down and easy scramble take you off ridge towards the east and walk back down.

Possibly Tas Uni Mountaineering club (TUMC) 1970's

12.

Syringe

110m

10

Major ridge ~20m right of Injection. Somewhat of a tiny Rysavy Ridge...
1 55m, dicky move onto overlap/ridge then follow slabs. step right into small col to belay at about 50-55m (or else you'll find you need to downclimb a few metres off a little pinnacle.)
2.45m moving right onto slabs and excellent position, navigate upwards.
3.	`10m (?) one more little slab then its easy walking up to the summit of the Needles
descend via hiking trail.

Possibly Tas Uni Mountaineering Club (TUMC)1970's

1st Peak along the Range East of Needle Buttress and Needles Summit

Several easy and enjoyable slab climbs have been done on the north side of the 1st peak along the range to the east, Seamless and Threads 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. Walk in is about an hour from the road.

★★★ 13.

Seamless

50m

11

A wonderful slab below the summit of the 1st peak along the range from the Needles summit. Good rock, great position, and easy climbing.
Access ~70min. Climb up the Needles walking track toward the summit passed the Thimble and traverse the slopes below Needle Buttress across to the ridge leading east. Pass the 1st peak on the R (south side) and descend a grassy slope to the foot of the slab which faces N.
A steepish start to gain the slab, follow the centre of the slab passing through a couple of small overlaps and a short thin section high up. Scramble to the top of the peak for a few metres to find a solid belay.

P. Robinson (with support from C. Rathbone) 5/03/24

14.	Thread 1a	23m	15
	At the lowest point on the N side of the peak at the foot of a slab is a bulge, pull through this (crux) onto the slab and climb the corner for 6m to a ledge. Continue up the slab above, 2-3m R of the corner through a small overhang to the top. Scramble off to the R.
	P. Robinson (with support from J. Robinson) 29/04/24

15.	Thread 1b	23m	10
	Start 2m R of Thread 1a. Climb a crack system to reach the ledge and continue up the main slab as for Thread 1a
	P. Robinson (with support from J. Robinson) 29/04/24

16.	Thread 2	18m	11
	R from the top of Thread 1 is a slab with an obvious corner on its L. Climb the slab though an overlap keeping approx. 2m R of the corner.
	P. Robinson (with support from J. Robinson) 29/03/24

★ 17.	Thread 3	30m	12
	Near the top of the peak is a 25m slab with two overlaps, R of Seamless. Climb the slab through the two overlaps and exit by climbing another 5m easily to the top. Scramble off to the right and down the S side of the peak. Great view from the top on a clear day.
	P. Robinson (with support from D.Cerutty) 7/05/24

★ 18.	Thread 4	30m	13
	Start a few metres R of Thread 3, R of the crack system. Climb the slab just R of the crack and exit as for Thread 3.
	P. Robinson (with support from D.Cerutty) 7/05/24

19.	Thread 5	20m	13
	On the W side , at the bottom the peak is a short rib R of a small gully. Pull onto the rib and follow the skyline to the top. Beware of a huge loose boulder when summiting. Scramble off R.
	P. Robinson (with support from J. Robinson) 29/03/24