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<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <!-- Dont edit this text directly!!! You will screw it up. Use the Edit Guide link on the view page --> <guide guidestars="*"><text class="heading1">Elderslie</text><text class="intro">The bouldering at Elderslie is on sandstone boulders and is quite good. It was originally discovered by Mike Berry and developed by Stu Bowling & friends in early 2001 and after many trips now has about 50 problems, and more waiting to be done. </text><texttext><image src="Elderslieemap1.jpg"/><text class="heading3text">Please note: The Forbidden Forest is currently off limits to climbing. Do not climb here without permission. Check the website for access updates.</text><image src="Elderslieemap1.jpg"/><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">To get there drive up the Midlands Highway from Hobart towards Brighton. Take the left hand road just before Brighton (Elderslie Road). Follow this road for 15 minutes or so before reaching Elderslie (not much more than a few farms and a golf club). Take a right a few kilometres out of Elderslie (Clifton Vale Road) and follow this dirt road for about 5 kilometres before reaching a Y intersection; take the right road (to Dysart), you will go up a rise and then the road will go down again, at the bottom of this hill on the left is the fire trail about 1 kilometre from the intersection. (Note: This first area is now mostly inaccessible, unless you can convince the new landowners otherwise!). You walk up here for 100m or so and then to your left is Slug Rock (amongst the trees) and the Ant Rocks are about 100m uphill from here. Drive on another 200m or so and on the right is the pullover next to the creek, opposite the obvious Roadside boulders. Park here to access the Block (access at your own risk!) and Forbidden Forest areas.</text><text class="heading2">The Block </text><image new="false" srcnumber="Elderslieblockmapnull.jpg"/><text>Roadside Boulders</text><text class="text" classnew="textfalse">Park at the pullover on the right side of the road just before the roadside boulders and walk along the road for about 50m, there is a bit of a track up to the left. Walk to the top of this first small hill to reach the Block via other boulders including the Voltage boulder. Many new problems still await ascents in this area though rock quality might not be as good as some of the more established problems number="null.">There are 4 or so obvious freestanding boulders right by the parking area. To my knowledge for some reason these have never been developed. There are probably about 10 problems to be done here, but they need some cleaning. They are literally 10m from the road, and there is no fence, so access should not be an issue.</text><text class="heading3heading2">Block>The Block Boulder </text><image src="ElderslieElderslie_topos_blockA.jpeElderslieblockmap.jpg"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name="><text class="text" new="false" " number="1null." >Park at the pullover on the right side stars="of the road just before the roadside ">Sitboulders startand up arete</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="2." stars=" ">Sit start on pocket</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="3." stars=" ">From pocket and slope to top</problem><problemwalk along the road for about 50m, there is a bit of a track up to the left. Walk to the top of this first small hill to reach the Block via other boulders including the Voltage boulder. Many new problems still await ascents in this area though rock quality might not be as good as some of the more established problems. These boulders are presumably on the same land as the Ant and Slug boulders, and so have the same access problems, but they are a bit further away from the house.</text><text class="heading3">Block Boulder </text><image src="ElderslieElderslie_topos_blockA.jpe"/><problem extra=" " grade="V3V1" name=" " number="41." stars=" ">Sit start just right ofup arete</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="52." stars=" ">Up arete<>Sit start on pocket</problem><problem extra=" extra=" " grade="V5+V3" name="The Urvile " number="63." stars="*">Sit start, up to slopey break ">From pocket and top out.<slope to top</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V8V3" name=" " number="74." stars=" ">Stand>Sit start upjust middleright of face<arete</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3V2" name=" " number="85." stars=" ">Up just left of arete</problem><problem extra=" extra=" " grade="V4V5+" name=" The Urvile" number="96." stars=" *">Sit start, up to top out</problem><text class="heading3">Yellow Boulder</text><image src="ElderslieElderslie_topos_InfrontBlockA.jpe"/><problemslopey break and top out.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2V8" name=" " number="17." stars=" ">Jump>Stand to jugs, top out<start up middle of face</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V5V3" name=" " number="28." stars=" ">Sit start-crimp-jugs-topout<>Up just left of arete</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3V4" name=" " number="39." stars=" ">Highball>Sit start upto blunttop arete<out</problem><problemproblem><text extraclass=" " grade="V6" name="heading3">Yellow Boulder</text><image " numbersrc="4ElderslieElderslie_topos_InfrontBlockA.jpe"/><problem starsextra=" ">Start at back of roof</problem><text class="heading3">Others </text><problem extra=" " grade="V4V2" name=" " number="101." stars=" ">Stand>Jump start on side pull with leftto jugs, poptop to top<out</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V?V5" name=" " number="2." " stars=" ">Project,>Sit sit start to 10<start-crimp-jugs-topout</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V8+V3" name="Voltage " number="113." stars="*">Up slightly overhanging face on very thin">Highball holds.up blunt Distinctivearete</problem><problem triangular face on the way to the Block.</problem><text extra=" " classgrade="heading2V6">Slug Rock </text><text name=" " classnumber="access4.">Park at the bottom of the fire trail onstars=" the left. Walk up the fire trail">Start forat aboutback 200m before shooting off to the left for about 80m, if you get to the top of the hill you've gone to far. Access is now an issue to this area as a house has been built just down hill from Slug Rock. Confirm accessibility with land owners before climbing.</text><textof roof</problem><text class="heading3">Others </text><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="10." stars=" ">Stand start on side pull with left, pop to top</problem><problem classextra="heading3">Slug Rock </text><image " srcgrade="Elderslieslug1.jpg"/><problem extraV?" name=" " gradenumber="VE" name=" " number="1." stars=" ">Easy>Project, sit start upto slab<10</problem><problem extra=" extra=" " grade="V3V8+" name=" Voltage" number="211." stars="*">Up slightly overhanging face on very thin ">Startholds. in cornerDistinctive and up</problem><problem extra="triangular face on the way to the Block.</problem><text " gradeclass="V6heading2" name=">Slug Rock </text><text " numberclass="3.access" >Park at the bottom of the fire trail stars="on the left. Walk up the fire ">Sittrail startfor on crimps</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="4." stars=" ">Sit start on crimps up to finger lock</problem><text class="heading3">Ant Boulder about 200m before shooting off to the left for about 80m, if you get to the top of the hill you've gone to far. Access is now an issue to this area as a house has been built just down hill from Slug Rock. Confirm accessibility with land owners before climbing.</text><text class="access">The ant boulder is just up the hill from Slug Rock and Boulder 2 is just around the hill from Slug Rock<heading3">Slug Rock </text><image src="ElderslieantElderslieslug1.jpg"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1VE" name="Bogus" number " number="1." stars=" ">Stand>Easy, start at jugs. Up through good holds to top out.</problem><problem up slab</problem><problem extra=" extra=" " grade="V3+" name="Ant Trail " number="2." stars=" ">Stand>Start start.in Upcorner through good edges, slopey top out.<and up</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4V6" name=" " number="3." stars=" ">Sit start on crimps</problem><problem small edges, move left before trending right toextra=" top out on good holds.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4+V6" name="Goldfinger " number="4." stars="*">Sit start under small roof. Move">Sit throughstart reasonableon edges,crimps dynoup to lip, mantle top out.<finger lock</problem><text class="heading3">Boulder>Ant 2Boulder </text><text class="text">This outcropaccess">The ant boulder is just up the hill from Slug Rock and Boulder 2 is just toaround the lefthill offrom Slug rock.<Rock</text><image src="Elderslieboulder2Elderslieant.jpg"/><problem extra=" " grade="V3V1" name=" Bogus" number="1." stars=" ">Sit>Stand start on lip of small caveat jugs. Up through good holds trending left to slopey top out.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4V3+" name=" Ant Trail" number="2." stars=" ">Same>Stand asstart. forUp 1,through trendinggood right slightly to worse edges, slopey top out.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V5V4" name="Watch Me " number="3." stars=" ">Stand>Sit start aton goodsmall holdsedges, atmove halfleft height.before Straight up through reasonable holds to crux slopeytrending right to top out. on Goodgood spotting requiredholds.</problem><textproblem><problem classextra="pagebreak(SDS)"> </text><text grade="V4+" name="Goldfinger" number="4." classstars="heading2">Forbidden Forest </text><text*">Sit start under small roof. Move through reasonable edges, dyno to lip, mantle top out.</problem><text class="heading3">The Forbidden Forest is currently off limits to climbing. Do not climb here without permission. Check the website for access updates.</text><text>Boulder 2 </text><text class="text">This outcrop is just to the left of Slug rock.</text><image classsrc="access">Park as for the block area and walk across the paddock, obviously not in the poppy season. Cross the creek (sometimes dry) and turn left up towards the fence line, follow this (and the overhead power lines) until you get to a gate on the left. Go through this and continue along the fence / power line and the 4WD track for another 100m or so. The boulders are up to the left amongst the trees, the first to come into sight is the overhang with problem 1. on it. As with all the climbing at Elderslie, the Forbidden Forest is on private land. To gain permission call into the white house marked on the map. </text><imageElderslieboulder2.jpg"/><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" ">Sit start on lip of small cave. Up through good holds trending left to slopey top out.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="2." stars=" ">Same as for 1, trending right slightly to worse top out.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V5" name="Watch Me" number="3." stars=" ">Stand start at good holds at half height. Straight up through reasonable holds to crux slopey top out. Good spotting required.</problem><text class="pagebreak"> </text><text class="heading2">Forbidden Forest </text><text class="text" new="false" number="null.">The Forbidden Forest is currently off limits to climbing. Do not climb here without permission. </text><text class="access">Park as for the block area and walk across the paddock, obviously not in the poppy season. Cross the creek (sometimes dry) and turn left up towards the fence line, follow this (and the overhead power lines) until you get to a gate on the left. Go through this and continue along the fence / power line and the 4WD track for another 100m or so. The boulders are up to the left amongst the trees, the first to come into sight is the overhang with problem 1. on it. As with all the climbing at Elderslie, the Forbidden Forest is on private land. To gain permission call into the white house marked on the map. </text><image src="Elderslieforb.JPG"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name="Red Dragon" number="1." stars=" ">The first problem to come into view when walking along the 4WD track, climbs out through the roof, trending left via sloper at the top.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="2." stars=" ">There are various problems up this face</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="3." stars=" ">Project, up left arete</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V9" name=" " number="4." stars=" ">Sit start up wall</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Sams Arete" number="5." stars="*">Sit start on edges to slopey lay back, dyno to jug. Powerful and hard as is to be expected.</problem><image src="Elderslieslowtwitch.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8+" name="Slow twitch" number="6." stars="**">Sit start trending slightly right on small edges. Dyno for jug at lip.</problem><image src="ElderslieforbEldersliescopion.JPGjpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8 " grade="V3/4" name="Red DragonScorpion" number="17." stars=" ">The>Campus firstout problem to comelip intoand viewleft. whenA walking along the 4WD trackbit scary, climbsuse out through the roof, trending left via sloper at the topsome mats.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="Jerry the " grade="V?" name="Belly Button Elf" " number="28." stars=" ">There are various problems up this face<>Sit Start, up the right hand side of the short black wall.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V?V2" name=" " number="39." stars=" ">Project,>Sit start up middle leftof arete<wall</problem><problem extra=" (SDS)" grade="V9V2" name="Tuna Brillo" number="10." " numberstars="4." stars=">Up middle of sandy cave via ">Sit start up wall<slopes and layaway to top. Attentive spotters!</problem><problem extra="(SDS) " grade="V9V2" name="Sams Arete " number="511." stars="*">Sit start on edges to slopey lay back,">Up dynowall toaround jug. Powerful and hard as is to be expected.</problem><imagearete from sandy cave</problem><problem src="Elderslieslowtwitch.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" " grade="V8+" name="SlowWrap twitchit" number="612." stars="** ">Sit start trendingdouble slightlypinching, rightup on smallvia edges. Dyno for jug at lipand arete.</problem><imageproblem><problem src="Eldersliescopion.jpg"/><problem extra=" " " grade="V3/4V4" name="Scorpion " number="713." stars=" ">Campus>Stand outstart toup liparete andjust left.right A bit scary, use some mats.<of 12</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4V6" name="Jerry the Belly Button Elf" California Girls" number="8." stars="13a." stars="*">Sit Start, up the right hand side of the short black wallstart 2m right of arete and climb left into no 13. on crimps.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" Pavlova" number="914." stars=" ">Sit>Up middle startof upface middleon ofpositive wall<edges.</problem><problemproblem><image extrasrc="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Tuna Brillo" number="10.Elderslieelmo.jpg"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1" starsname=" ">Up middle of sandy cave via slopes and layaway to top. Attentive spotters!</problem><problem " number="15." stars=" ">Up wall</problem><problem extra=" extra=" " grade="V2V1" name=" " number="1116." stars=" ">Up wall around arete from sandy cave</problem><problem ">Up wall</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" " grade="V8V4" name="WrapElmos itworld" number="1217." stars="**">Sit start left of arete on good ">Sitholds. start doubleMove pinching,straight up via edges and arete(no arete) on good holds to lip.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4V2+" name=" The Pox" number="1318." stars=" ">Stand>Up startmossy upface areteon justsmall rightcrumbly of 12<edges. Poxy!</problem><problem extra="(SDS) " grade="V6V5" name="California Girls " number="13a19." stars="*">Sit start 2m right of arete and climb">Up leftsmooth intoslightly no 13. on crimps.<overhanging face</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="Locust Abortion Technician" " grade="V2" name="Pavlova" number="1420." stars="*">Sit start on jug, move left, up ">Up middle of face on positive edgesaround bulge.</problem><imageproblem><problem srcextra="Elderslieelmo.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V0" name="Big Al's Meat Patties" gradenumber="V120a." name=" " number="15."stars=" ">High ball up crusty side of largest boulder.</problem><text starsclass="access">These problems are in the cave, described from left ">Up wall</problem><problem extra="to right. </text><problem extra=" " grade="V1V5" name="Cams Dyno" number="21." " numberstars="16." ">Dyno from the jug to stars=" the top.</problem><problem ">Up wall</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" " grade="V4V6" name="Elmos world " number="1722." stars="**">Sit start left of arete on good holds. Move straight up (no arete) on good holds to lip ">Start with left heel on the jug in 21 and hands on crimps, move right on edges and up.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2+V8" name="The Pox " number="1823." stars=" ">Up mossy face>Start at back of cave and climb out on small crumbly edges. Poxy!</problem><problemproblem><text extraclass="heading2" new="false" " gradenumber="V5" name=" " number="19.null.">The Gully</text><text class="text" new="false" starsnumber="null.">The Gully is a new area, and ">Up smooth slightly overhanging face</problem><problemwill be described sooner or later.</text><text extraclass="(SDS)heading3" gradenew="V7" name="Locust Abortion Technician"false" number="20.null.">Paydirt Boulder</text><image new="false" starsnumber="*null.">Sit start on jug, move left, up around bulge.</problem><problem src="paydirt.jpg" width="">null</image><problem extra="(Highball, StandSDS)" grade="V0" name="Big Al's Meat Patties" new="false" number="20a1." stars=""></problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" ">High ball up crusty side of largest boulder.</problem><textnew="false" number="2." stars="">Left arete</problem><problem classextra="access(Stand)">These problems are in the cave, described from left to right. </text><problem grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">Mantle</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" " gradename="V5" namenew="Cams Dynofalse" number="214." stars="">Swing start up to highest part ">Dyno from the jug to the top.<of boulder</problem><problem extra=" (Hang)" grade="V6V3" name=" Paydirt" new="false" number="225." stars=" ">Start with left heel on the jug in 21 and hands on crimps, move right on edges and up*">Right arete of steep face. Hang start and up arete. The full sit start needs to be done.</problem><problem extra=" (SDS)" grade="V8V2" name=" " new="false" number="23." stars="">Short ">Start atarete on back of cave and climb out on small edgesboulder.</problem></guide> |
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