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<guide guidestars="**"><text class="heading1">Coles Bay</text><text
        class="intro" new="false"
        number="null.">The climbing at Coles Bay offers some of the best in the state, on pure white granite boulders and cliffs. It is the ideal place to head in the winters when the weather is too wet or cold everywhere else. In summer it can get quite greasy but with a little hold preparation this does not inhibit the climbing and there is the added bonus of the crystal clear sea water to swim in.
</text><text
        class="access">Coles Bay (on the Freycinet peninsula) is located midway down Tasmania's east coast. The township of Coles Bay is about 2-3 hours drive from Launceston or Hobart. The fastest way to get there from Hobart is to travel on the Tasman Highway through Sorell, then drive to a clearly marked turn off to Coles Bay about 20 minutes past Swansea. Drive through Coles Bay and take a left turn along the Sleepy Bay road, follow this until you reach the signposted turn off to Bluestone Bay (just before the Cape Tourville lighthouse comes into sight). This is a 4WD track but it is possible to get in using a 2WD without too much difficulty. 
</text><text
        class="access">Most of the bouldering has been done in the White Water Wall area, which is inside the Coles Bay National Park. You are required to pay park entry fees, if you are planning on staying more than a few days, it is worth getting a year pass to the National Park, worth about $18. 
</text><text
        class="intro">Most people camp at the end of the Bluestone Bay Road at the campground above Whitewater Wall. There is a toilet here but you need to provide your own water. Other camping facilities exist in Coles Bay and there are also a few hotels and houses available for rent. There are two shops, a bakery, and a service station in Coles Bay.
</text><text
        class="intro">At present there are three developed bouldering areas, Harlequin Buttress, The Pharos and the Bain Marie.</text><image
        src="coles_bay_final1.png" width="800"/><text
        class="heading2">Sleepy Bay</text><text
        class="text">There has been some bouldering done on the coast at Sleepy Bay, but the rock is not the best. To get to Sleepy Bay drive into the National Park and take the first left. Drive for a couple of minutes over the hill and park at the car park.</text><text
        class="heading3">Sleepy Bay Roof</text><text
        class="text">From the car park follow the walking track for 50m until you get to a hand rail with a gulch down below. Scramble down into the gulch to find this roof just above sea level. There is potential for 4-5 more problems on this roof.</text><image
        src="Coles BaySleepBayRoof.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V3" name="Hardcore Soft Porn" number="1."
        stars="*">Sitstart on good holds under roof and climb out</problem><text
        class="heading3">Underworld Boulders</text><text
        class="text">Keep going along the track down to the gravely beach. From here follow the coast around southwards for 200m to find some boulders and walls which are about 50m to the north of the Underworld.</text><text
        class="text">This slab is about 50m before the main walls.</text><image
        src="Coles Bayunderworld1.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V2" name="       " number="1."
        stars="*">Traverse break L-R</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V2" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Jump to break and top out</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Flake</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V1" name="       " number="4."
        stars="*">Flake</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3"
        name="       " number="5."
        stars="*">From jug above bulge crank up and left</problem><text
        class="text">These are the shorter walls to the right at the main area.</text><image
        src="Coles Bayunderworld2.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V1" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V3" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1"
        name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"
        name="       " number="4." stars="       ">
    </problem><image
        src="Coles Bayunderworld3.jpg"/><text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">This is the main wall. I don't know if any of these lines have been done - they are very high and hard.

2. Ground Control V5 (SDS)</text><text</text><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Ground Control" new="false"
        number="2." stars=""/><text
        class="heading2">The Sea Level Traverse</text><text
        class="text">There are a lot of walls, caves and free standing boulders along the Sea Level Traverse. The Traverse goes for several kilometres south along the coastline from Sleepy Bay. There are parts of the traverse that are quite tricky, especially if there is a swell running. There is a reasonable amount of potential here, but only a small amount of development has been done so far.</text><text
        class="heading3">Stud City Limits Area</text><text
        class="text">These square cut walls are found about 50m before the Horizontal Chimney, about 20-30 minutes along the traverse. The problems are good training for Hazards Main Wall, which looms menacingly above.</text><image
        src="Coles Bayscl1.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)"
        grade="V?" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Project</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V1" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Face using pocket</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V4/5" name="Stud City Limits" number="3."
        stars="*">Awkward sitstart below bulgey arete</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="4."
        stars="*">Leftwards flake</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V3" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">Black slab</problem><image
        src="Coles Bayscl2.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V2" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V3" name="       " number="3."
        stars="*">Seam to slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V2/3" name="       " number="4."
        stars="*">Jugs to mantle</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V3" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">Sitstart on undercling to jugs</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="6."
        stars="       ">Dyno from break to top</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="       " number="7."
        stars="       ">Jugs</problem><text
        class="heading2">Honeymoon Bay</text><text
        class="text">There is some bouldering here on the large granite boulder. Easy problems can be done up the slabby side and a slightly harder problem exists (about V3) which can be done up the slightly overhanging face.</text><text
        class="heading2">Carp Bay Point</text><text
        class="text">There are some very nice white boulders at the end of Carp Bay Point waiting for development.</text><text
        class="heading2">Mt Amos</text><text
        class="text">There are hundreds of boulders scattered around the flanks of Mt Amos. Unfortunately there are very few decent problems on them. There are some nice ones on the very summit that have good problems.</text><text
        class="heading2">Little Bluestone Bay</text><text
        class="text">Little Bluestone Bay has some good bouldering on nice white granite. To get there take a right hand turn down the 4WD track just before Whitewater Wall and follow the track south to the coast.</text><text
        class="text">The following blocks are immediately to the left from where the track meets the coast.</text><image
        src="Coles Baylbb1.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V3/4" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V4/5" name="Captain Pugwash" number="3."
        stars="*">
    </problem><text
        class="heading3">The Pharos</text><text
        class="text">Follow the coast leftwards (east/north) for 200m until you see the prominent pinnacle of the Sentinel. The Pharos is a group of edges just to the south of the Sentinel.</text><text
        class="text">The following block is 40m to the left of the Pharos proper.</text><image
        src="Coles Baypharos1.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?"
        name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?"
        name="       " number="3." stars="       ">
    </problem><text
        class="text">This is the far left of the Pharos.</text><image
        src="Coles Baypharos2.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Steepish face from jug</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Face L of arete</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Easy corner</problem><text
        class="text">This is the left hand side of the Pharos.</text><image
        src="Coles Baypharos3.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?"
        name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Corner and roof</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V10?" name="       " number="3."
        stars="*">Steep thin crack and roof</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">Up on jugs</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V0" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">Cracks L of corner</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="6."
        stars="       ">Face L of arete</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V2" name="       " number="7."
        stars="*">Jugs up arete</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V0" name="       " number="8."
        stars="       ">Flake in corner to R</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="9."
        stars="       ">2m right of corner</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="10."
        stars="       ">There are 3 different cracks up the slab to the right</problem><image
        src="Coles Baypharos4.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Crack and bulge</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V6?" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Awkward sitstart in steep corner to flake system. Stand start is V2/3</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Thin crack</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V4" name="       " number="4."
        stars="**">Face using right arete</problem><text
        class="text">Directly above the right hand end of the Pharos is a slabby block.</text><image
        src="Coles Baypharos5.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Project - Hard and thin L-R traverse</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V2" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V2" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">Crack without using holds over right</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">Slab</problem><text
        class="heading2">Bluestone Bay</text><text
        class="heading3">The Bain Marie</text><text
        class="access">From Bluestone Bay walk northwards along the shoreline for about 200m and you will come to a rocky platform with several boulders and small cliffs on it. This is the Bain Marie. 
</text><image
        src="Coles Baybone.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V0"
        name="Left hand Slab" number="1."
        stars="       ">Up slab.</problem><problem extra="       "
        grade="V0" name="Right hand Slab" number="2."
        stars="       ">Up slab.</problem><image
        src="Coles Baybtwo.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V8"
        name="Mykonos" number="3."
        stars="       ">Start on crimp and undercling, pull on and bump up to top of boulder.</problem><image
        src="Coles Baybthree.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V3"
        name="Roof Problem" number="4."
        stars="       ">Start at back of roof on jugs, pull out through roof on jugs and around lip to top out.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V4" name="Project" number="5."
        stars="       ">Sit start up into undercling and top out.</problem><image
        src="Coles Baybfour.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V0"
        name="Slab" number="6."
        stars="       ">Up easy angled slab on side of boulder.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V4" name="Traverse" number="7."
        stars="*">Start on left and traverse across on edges and then up.</problem><image
        src="Coles Baybfive.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V4"
        name="Undercut" number="8."
        stars="       ">Start on underclings then into side pull and up over top.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V8" name="White men can" number="9."
        stars="*">Start on undercling sidepull jump to high sidepull up flake. (interesting foot stab helps) Sit start will go much harder V11?</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Akasha" number="10."
        stars="**">Start under roof, up to thin seam, big moves to top. Mantle or traverse. V5 start by not using the bad rock for feet. Both ways are fun.</problem><image
        src="Coles Baybsix.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V4"
        name="Seven Nation Army" number="11."
        stars="**">Sit start on crimps and up.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="       " number="11a."
        stars="       ">Start on flake right of 11. Be careful on the mantle not to fall into the ocean.</problem><image
        src="Coles Baybseven.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V5"
        name="Clockwork Orange" number="12."
        stars="       ">Very easy if your very tall, very hard if your very short. Start on break, up into undercling then up to top.</problem><image
        src="Coles Baycolesbay.jpg"/><text
        class="text">Jon Nermut on a V5/6 at an area further around the coast from the Bain Marie</text><text
        class="pagebreak">
  </text><text
        class="heading2">Whitewater Wall Area</text><text
        class="heading3">Harlequin Buttress</text><text
        class="text">At Harlequin Buttress there are a number of boulders with quite a few good problems ranging from easy to very hard. From the turning circle at the end of the road walk straight ahead to the cliff top, follow it rightwards for about 50m until you reach the top of some steps. Follow them down on to a ramp and to the boulders.</text><image
        src="Coles Bayone.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V3"
        name="Traverse" number="1."
        stars="       ">Start in corner and traverse left to jugs, can be done the opposite way at a similar  grade.</problem><text
        class="text">There are various sit start problems which can be done along the traverse that have not been recorded.
</text><image
        src="Coles Baytwo.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V5"
        name="Orange" number="1."
        stars="       ">Hang start on lip with feet on block, pull up to ledge and top out.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V0" name="Traverse" number="2."
        stars="       ">Traverse wall.</problem><problem extra="       "
        grade="V4" name="Slab" number="3."
        stars="       ">Up Slab</problem><problem extra="       "
        grade="V5" name="Mantel" number="4."
        stars="       ">Hang start on lip and mantel over, desperate for some easy for others.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V1" name="Arete" number="5."
        stars="       ">Hang start on arete, up right trending to top out.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V8" name="Project" number="6."
        stars="       ">Start on crimps, hard pull to top.</problem><image
        src="Coles Baythree.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V5"
        name="Traverse" number="1."
        stars="       ">Start on jug traverse left for 5m to top out.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V4" name="Finger Power" number="2."
        stars="       ">Up Slab.</problem><problem extra="       "
        grade="V3" name="Balance" number="3."
        stars="       ">Up slab near arete without using arete.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V1" name="Arete" number="4."
        stars="       ">Sit start, up arete.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V?" name="Slab" number="5."
        stars="       ">Up slab.</problem><image
        src="Coles Bayfour.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V12?"
        name="Roof Project" number="1."
        stars="       ">Start on break, into undercling, out to crimps to top.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V7" name="Campus" number="2."
        stars="       ">Hang start on crimps, campus to edge and top out.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V5" name="Campuseis" number="3."
        stars="       ">Hang of opposing side pulls, pop to jug and top out.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V0" name="Top Out" number="4."
        stars="       ">Start on jug and top out.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V0" name="Topped Out" number="5."
        stars="       ">Step onto lip and top out.</problem><image
        src="Coles Bayfive.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V1"
        name="Traverse" number="1."
        stars="       ">Start on jugs and traverse leftwards.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V4" name="Slopeout" number="2."
        stars="       ">Stand Start to top out.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V1" name="Groovy" number="3."
        stars="       ">Up groove, harder if your short.</problem><text
        class="access">These problems are under the large &quot;Jumping Block&quot;</text><image
        src="Coles Baysix.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V3"
        name="Traverty" number="1."
        stars="       ">Traverse whole break to end and top out.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V5" name="Flaked" number="2."
        stars="       ">Start near end of flake, traverse out then long throw to slope, finish in break.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V6" name="Campuseis" number="3."
        stars="       ">Hang start on slopes and campus to break.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V9" name="Flake Out" number="4."
        stars="       ">Start on undercling, out to slopes and up Camuseis.</problem><problem
        extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false"
        number="4a."
        stars="">There is a steep crack line heading out to the arete from the horizontal break at the end of Flake Out. This has probably been top roped in the past, but it would make a great highball finish to Flake Out.</problem><text
        class="text">There are a variety of dead hangs on the dimples right of Campuseis. There are also various hang problems in the offwidth, including a foot hang and a chest hang.
</text><problem
        extra="       " grade="V5" name="Pull" number="5."
        stars="       ">Hang start on edge and throw to break.</problem><image
        src="Coles Bayseven.JPG"/><problem extra="       " grade="V3"
        name="Highball" number="1."
        stars="       ">Up slab.</problem><problem extra="       "
        grade="V2" name="Highball2" number="2."
        stars="       ">Out to arete and up.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V2" name="Crash Pad" number="3."
        stars="       ">Up face.</problem><problem extra="       "
        grade="V4" name="Sitter" number="4."
        stars="       ">Sit start and up.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V3" name="Lope" number="5."
        stars="       ">Sit start, dyno up to jug.</problem><image
        src="Coles Bayeight.JPG"/><text
        class="text">This is the face underneath the main block, there have been many problems done on this piece of rock, all of them within the grade range from V0 to V3, so take your shoes and chalk bag and go exploring.</text><text
        class="text">A full traverse has been done right the way around the zawn to the platform opposite, the blank wall past the platform awaits a traverse. Keep an eye on the sea - it is hard to get out of the water if there is any swell around</text><text
        class="pagebreak">
  </text><text
        class="heading2">Friendly Point Road</text><text
        class="text">The boulders below can be found on the road leading out to Friendly Point. Only a couple of problems have been done, but potential exists for quite a few more although extensive cleaning is required.</text><text
        class="heading3">Tamogochi Boulder</text><text
        class="text">This boulder is the third boulder on the left and is about 5m off the side of the road. The problems marked below have been cleaned.</text><image
        src="Coles Bay - Friendly Pointtamogochi_a.jpg"
        width="300"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2"
        name="Kate+Jules Prob" number="1."
        stars="*">Up the face right of the arete.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V2?" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Project</problem><problem extra="       "
        grade="V6" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Project</problem><text
        class="heading2">Friendly Point</text><text
        class="access">These problems are at the Friendly Point crag. From the end of the road to the southern end of Friendly Beaches, walk south around the coast for 20-30 minutes until you turn a corner and come across a substantial crag with several sport routes.</text><image
        src="Coles Bayfp.jpg"/><problem extra="       " grade="V?"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Mini Person project.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V7?" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Straight up seam, sitdown potential also exists.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V5?" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Start under the rooflet.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">Up crack and arete.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="       " number="5." stars="       ">Sit start under the rooflet. Its a bit tricky coming around corner and nicer to do as a stand start, starting where Bisso is climbing.</problem></guide>