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Guide

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<guide guidestars=""><text class="heading1">Gnarly Spider</text><text
        class="intro" new="false"
        number="null.">The bouldering here used to be quite good, but in winter 2006, the boulder collapsed. According to Mike Berry, "The entire boulder has dropped around 2-3 feet in the right hand corner. This means that all the routes on the vertical side are now less than vertical and a doddle. Gnarly Spider itself and all the ones on the front are completely different and your bum now drags on the ground. It happened (I think) during the really heavy rains earlier on this year. Anyway ... as a bouldering venue it is now worthless!"
This guide will stay here for historical purposes, but Gnarly Spider probably isn't worth visiting anymore, unless someone gets keen and excavates under the traverse, which will now probably be harder as the angle has changed. The slabs may be ok for beginners.
</text><image
        src="Gnarly Spidergnarlymap3.jpg"/><text class="text"
        new="false">Access to this boulder is the same as for Monkeys Bum Crag. From the East Derwent highway about 5km along from the Bowen Bridge the road crosses a creek just before it sweeps around to the left. Park at the start of Cassidy Rd. Go up the valley, following the north side of the creek. The Gnarly Spider boulder is on the right side of a grassy flat a third of the way along the walk to Monkey's Bum (the climbing crag - see Craglets). </text><text
        class="heading2">The Gnarly Spider Boulder, Front 
</text><image
        src="Gnarly Spidergsf.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Easy slabs to the right of Gnarly Spider.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Gnarly Spider" number="2."
        stars="***">Start at jug right of crack. Crank left across the lip via good edges and slopers. Finish at left hand jug. V3 if done left to right.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Start as for 2, straight up crack to top out.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name="Pof Bandit" number="4."
        stars="       ">Sit start on hold under roof. Up to large sloping hold at lip, mantle and top out.</problem><text
        class="heading2">The Gnarly Spider Boulder, Side 
</text><image
        src="Gnarly Spidergss.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6"
        name="The Full Gnarly" number="5."
        stars="***">Continue problem 2 (Gnarly Spider) around the arete and across the entire face using small edges (manufactured!) to finish as for 10.  V4/5 if done from the arete only (sit start).  Many eliminates / variants also exist.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" name="       " number="6."
        stars="*">Sit start at jugs on arete.  Crank slightly left and up to top out.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V3/4" name="       " number="7."
        stars="*">Start on small edges at head height. Step up and fire for good hold below lip, top out. A good eliminate exists by using the slope only below the lip, about V5.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="       " number="8."
        stars="       ">Start at edges at head height again, dyno for lip proper.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="9."
        stars="       ">Start on pocket and edge, step up and lock off / dyno to lip.</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V0" name="       " number="10." stars="       ">Start at large triangular hold. Up through good edges to finish under roof at lip. Couple of grades harder if you do the roof / mantle.</problem></guide>