Schouten Island

Trumpeter Bay    

Sennen Point. Compared to much of the local sea cliff, this area is very friendly, being only 25 metres high and only 250 east of the entrance to Trumpeter Bay. It is easily identified by being directly opposite a rock 3 metres high, 150 metres offshore (shown on the 1:25000 map). Access so far was by dingy from Trumpeter Bay to a sheltered spot just west where it was easy to drag the boat up on the rocks. It should be possible to walk from the campsite at Trumpeter Bay in half an hour. There are ledges leading below most of the cliff and a convenient abseil block (GPS Aus Geo 66, 0608494 5313279) at the western end of the area developed so far.

*** Stairway to Heaven  20m  22

About 100 metres east of the abseil and starting from higher ledges climb an amazingly juggy overhanging groove, just left of a big corner, to a harder section past a bolt. Nick & Heather Hancock, Edi Albert & Vonner Keller-Albert  March 2010

* Rhani’s Tender  25m  18

Climb over a roof and follow the shallow right facing corner in the long slabby wall to the right of the corner. Edi Albert & Vonner Keller Albert  March 2010

*** Hold onto Your IQ  25m  23

Follow a line of five bolts up the blank looking slab, via great moves, with a medium cam at the start and finish. Nick & Heather Hancock, Edi Albert & Vonner Keller-Albert  March 2010

Fingerlicker  20m  22

Climb the sharp crack on the right side of a square protruding buttress, starting from a higher ledge, about 50 metres left of the abseil. Nick & Heather Hancock  March 2010

** Eight is Enough  25m  8

 Around to the right is the last climb easily approached by traversing ledges leftwards from the main abseil. Climb a bulge and acrack in the face above.

 Heather & Nick Hancock  March 2010

*** Schouten Star  25m  23

Climb the cool looking flake, about 10 metres left of, and easily visible from the abseil block, and the slopey but well protected bulge above. Nick & Heather Hancock, Edi Albert & Vonner Keller-Albert  March 2010

Von’s Route  25m  16

Just right of the offwidth where the previous climb gets going, climb up a good crack. Vonner Keller-Albert & Edi Albert March 2010

Icarus  25m  15

Climbs the thin crack right of the easy crack just left of the abseil. Edi Albert & Vonner Keller-Albert  March 2010

*** Something Weird  20m  18

About  200 metres back towards Trumpeter Bay and further up away from the ocean is a proud buttress with a big hole in it. Chimney up under the hanging flake and come out through the hole, then climb up past more bolts to the top. Nick & Heather Hancock, Edi Albert & Vonner Keller-Albert  March 2010

Square Face. 400 metres north of the entrance to Trumpeter Bay is a small, square, north facing buttress with a sharp right hand arête (GPS Aus Geo 66, 0608233 5314122), again reached by dingy.

* Pump up the Ducky  20m  17

Climb the continuous crack just left of the main blankish face. Edi Albert & Vonner Keller-Albert  March 2010

** Chaska Crack  20m  18

Climb the flake crack on surprisingly good gear. Nick & Heather Hancock  March 2010

** RV Tao  20m  22

Climb the tricky slab via 5 bolts and smallish cams. Edi Albert & Vonner Keller-Albert, Nick & Heather Hancock  March 2010

** Layback and Think of England  20m  23

Climbs the tenuous sharp arête via a small wire, four bolts and some biggish cams.  Nick & Heather Hancock, Edi Albert & Vonner Keller-Albert  March 2010

Masons Downfall.

** First Sign of the Zodiac  40m  18

About 200m south of the prow of the Downfall ( GR,084151), climb twin cracks in a rust coloured wall, to a step right at a dogleg letterbox in the right crack, and finish up a wider section to belay on a big sloping ledge. Abseil off a good wire or three. Nick & Heather Hancock, Edi Albert & Vonner Keller-Albert  March 2010