Ben Lomond

Ben Lomond is a world quality crag, but sees relatively few climbers. This is due to several factors; the seriousness of the climbing; the alpine environment and the associated bad weather; and the lack of a guidebook to the area. The classic routes on Frew's Flutes are unique in Australia. Extremely regular and soaring dolerite columns generate the hand and finger cracks from hell. The cliffs are up to 200m high and the extremely sustained routes require solid commitment. The most visited cliffs are above Carr Villa on the northern end of the Ben Lomond plateau, including the Pavillion, Frew's Flutes, Local Loser and Heathcliffe. If these huge cliffs don't keep you occupied then there are also more remote crags all around the edge of the plateau such as Stack's Bluff, Pavement Bluff, Ragged Jack and Africa.

Access

From Launceston drive through St Leonards and take the Ben Lomond road (C401). After 30-40 minutes turn right on the gravel C432 and just after the toll booth turn right towards Carr Villa and park at the end of the road at the Scout Hut. Up to the left is the Pavillion, about 20 minutes walk. Straight above Carr Villa at the top of the scree is the interesting Local Loser cliff. The huge columnar cliff off to the right is Frew's Flutes which is accessed by a 30 minute walk across the scree, either stay high or low to avoid scrub. The cliff further right of the Flutes with the weird architecture is Heathcliffe.

Rock

Huge dolerite columns. Although the cracks are surprisingly smooth (for dolerite), taping up is very sensible. There is a strong anti-bolting ethic at these cliffs. Bring as many cams as you can muster, as the parallel cracks eat them up. The abseil descent on Robin's Buttress requires double ropes. All the cliffs near Carr Villa face North, and so receive sun until late afternoon.

Camping

Near the Carr Villa scout hut. National Park entrance fees apply. There is also a climber's hut a few hundred metres before you get to Carr Villa, down the hill a bit on the left. Most local climbers day trip from Launceston.

Guide

None in print. Hassle Bob McMahon until he writes one (slated for 2005). There is a rough topo of the Flutes and Local Loser in Craglets 6, as well as some info on Ragged Jack.

Season

Ben Lomond is covered in snow and ice for the winter. The climbing season starts around November and usually ends around April. The best chance of good weather is December to March.

Rest Days

There is good walking up on the Ben Lomond Plateau, and if you are there in spring there might be some snow about. The North Esk, at the base of the mountain, has good rafting and kayaking. Otherwise head to Launceston and try to find some fun there (maybe).

The Wilderness Society is currently running a campaign to increase the size of the Ben Lomond National Park. As part of this they are promoting a self drive tour through the Razorback forests. They have produced a brochure detailing the tour, and the significance of the forests, that can be obtained from The Launceston Wilderness Society Shop, 174 Charles Street, Launceston, phone 03 6334 2499.

Classics

Rigaudon (20), Rajah (18), Defender of the Faith (21), Aquilla (21), Rock a Day Johnny (18), William Zanzinger (16).

Gallery