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Hi,

I would like to hear from anyone that has done either of these routes at Freycinet and what you thought of them.

Thanks,

Gary

From Peter Howard:

Just a short note to let you know one of the films that we have screening at the Longest Night Film Festival that is coming up this weekend in Hobart. Please see synopsis and screening details below:

RETURN2SENDER
Directed by PETER MORTIMER - USA, 2005, 90 minutes

Winner - Best Climbing Film - Banff Mountain Film Festival
Winner - Best Climbing Film - Kendal Mountain Film Festival
Special Jury Award - Telluride Mountain Film Festival
More thrill seeking for the USA. An award-winning look at the challenges and characters of modern desert crack-climbing and bouldering, featuring a zany commentary by Timmy O'Neill... and if you don't know what crack-climbing or bouldering are this is your chance to find out!
A series of six short films that feature outrageous antics and some of the most extreme mountain climbing you are ever likely to see. The films follow a wide range of climbing enthusiasts are followed as they take on some of the most impossible terrain resulting in unforgettable adventure footage.
Not to be missed is Biscuit the infamous climbing dog!

Screening schedule
Saturday 17 June 8.30pm

As you can see this is just a one off screening so make sure that you and your colleagues can make it!

If you need any more info please let me know

Peter

http://www.longestnightfilmfestival.com/

Peter Howard
Program Support Officer
Screen Tasmania

Tel: 03 6233 6995
Fax: 03 6233 5610

Hi
This may sound like a really stupid question but where in the Flagstaff reserve is Rocky Tom?
My Dad and I went there today, parked at the resovior, walked up the bitchumen road to the quarry and through the gate in the parking bay. I have the 6th edition of craglets and between both of us we thought we knew where we were going. So we set off down the 4wd track and after about 2mins there was a fork. We turned right and continued down to where there was an upside down burnt out car. We debated between right and left. We again turned right. We up over a slight rise and down to a sort of bog/marsh. We thought we were on track so we continued up a hill to a ridge between two hills. We had been walking for around 1/2 an hour so we stopped. This isnt right we thought- the book says only a 15 min walk. We then spied a path off to the left. We walked along this for 10 min but still no sign of any thing. So we walked back to the track. By now there were over 5 different quad and otor bikes buzzing in the valley beneath. We decided to head back down to the burnt out car and turn right. We dont. We instead head back to the first fork and go along the left hand fork. We walked along here for 15min but no sign of anything. We finally got back to the car after an hour and a half of walking and go home. Would some please calrify the book- we have no idea of where to go.
Thanks
Will

Despite the cold weather, some new problems have been done around the place.

Last weekend at Oatlands, Aubrey finished the project between Blood Lust and Time on the Hidden Wall, at about V7. It was quickly repeated by Dave from Syndey and Paul Westwood. On the same wall Morgan did the dyno variant to Kim's Highball, at about V4.
Dave Humphries and myself have done a bit of gardening to the right of Rumble Cave to produce a good little area with 4 problems so far.
Back in April Dave H, Jon N, Aubrey and Al Williams did about 10 or so new moderate problems on the Island, most of which seemed to involve a mantle.
At the Reservoir in Hobart I finished another project, the high traverse rightwards across the main face, which went at V5 or 6.
I have also started doing some problems at Crocodile Rock, on Mt Wellington. 3 probs so far, with about 5 more to do.
Earlier in the year Aubrey, Morgan and friends starting developing a new area out behind Sheffield, on a hillside of freestanding conglomerate boulders. It apparently has quite a bit of potential, but its a fair mission from Hobart. Topos to come when Aubrey has done all the good stuff.

This is from the chockstone forums:

Last week Steve Monks and I put up a new route at Cape Hauy, overlooking the Totem Pole, Candlestick and Lanterns. It's awesome, awesome, AWESOME!! A great alternative if you go to do the Free Route on the Totem Pole and the seas are too big. The bottom ledge for this route is 15 metres off sea level, so the route will be a goer in most seas. Seepage is minimal. It's well protected from winds NE,W to SW.
The route is 100m long, with 85m of pure crack pleasure!!
Candle in the Wind 100m 25
P1 : 15m 24 Off the deck past 3 carrots to 2 fixed hangers. Natural gear also
P2 : 30m 25 Straight up crack to belay stance at 2 ring bolts
P3 : 30m 22/23 continue up crack to ledge/ 2 ring bolts
P4 : 25m 18/19 crack/corner to top
Gear required: 60m climbing rope, 2 sets of wires, double set cams to #3 Camalot, hexes, 3 bolt plates lots of draws.
To get there, follow the Cape Hauy track from Fortescue Bay as for the Totem Pole. At the "Track Ends 50 metres" sign DO NOT turn off left (as for the tote), rather go to the end of the track, to the rock edge/lookout. Rap rings are located on the left (looking out), just over the edge. The raps are 25m from top to a ledge( 2 rings), 30m to 2 rings, 30m to 2 fixed hangers then 15m to the bottom ledge, which is huge. It's a good view across to the totem pole from here.
I'll post topo/photos asap, and send all the details thru to Gerry. Anyone heading out there and wanting info call me 0413365427.
Enjoy
Adrian Laing

UPCOMING EVENT...

Australian Climbing Festival

Work has begun on Australia's very own climbing festival.
The festival will be held in the Blue Mountains over the Easter long weekend in 2007 (April 7/8). It will showcase guest speakers, films, photography, clinics, climbing comp., writing, as well as great food & music for socializing.
It aims to inspire, inform and bring all keen climbers together from around Australia. At this stage we are looking for feedback, ideas, and anyone who can help.

Adam Donoghue (Festival Organiser)

I went for a drive down Green Valley Road behind Bagdad on the weekend, and saw quite a bit of sandstone cliffs and boulders. Has anyone done any routes or problems out there? Unfortunately it all looks like its on private land. Its part of the same sandstone band as elderslie.

Also, I could see a little cliff between a gap in the hills north of kempton, looking west. Is this Apsley Edge? Or is it actually closer to apsley? Apparantly there was actually a guide produced for it a fair while back. Anyone know if the cliff is any good, and its current status?

Cheers,

Jon

Jon,

Saw your query regarding Apsley Edge and the response from Noel Ward. To get there is easy. Follow the Lake Hwy from Melton Mowbray for 6km then take RH turn to Lower Marshes. About 5km along here the road crosses the Jordan River and then a side stream (Spring Hill Creek). The "edge' is sandstone escarpment that is hidden is situated mid-way between the creek and top of the hill to your right. Access is through farmland. A walk of about 15 or so minutes. The crag is very obvious from the Lake Highway heading past the turnoff towards Bothwell.

As Noel suggests, Peter Jackson has done a route guide to the area. Likewise I have a copy of it somewhere. The routes are all fairly short and the carrots are worth being mindful about.

Adios

Al Adams

Does anyone out there have decent slides of any of the following climbs, they would be willing to lend for a Rock magazine article:

Harlequin at Coles Bay
Ghost Rider at Hillwood
Blue Eyed Blonde at Alchemy Wall
Skyrocket on the Pipes
Aqualung at Stacks Bluff

Thanks,
Gerry Narkowicz

From Stephen via Roger:

2006 Climbing Slide Show

Where: Deviot Hall, West Tamar.
When: Sat night, 1st of April. BBQ from 5.00 pm, slides after.
Who: Anyone is welcome.
Facilities: Camping available, or sleep in the Hall. Toilets and playground also available, so kids can come.
Features: NZ climbing trips and more. If you have slides (35mm or electronic) that you want to show please let Steve know.
Good climbing at Hillwood close by.

Stephen.Tristram@utas.edu.au

or ph 63 245469 (w), 63 274565 (h)

Will be down in Hobart this weekend from the hot air capital of Australia - Canberra and would like to climb on the Organ Pipes on Sunday March 19th. Experienced climber, will have a car with only my harness and boots. Email or ring Keith Bell on 02 62822142 or 0416931738. Really hanging out for a climb on the Pipes and would appreciate it if somebody could spare the time.

A video of bouldering around La Nina on the Island from the first weekend in March. The video contains snippets of everybody climbing on the day (Jon, Morgan, Aubrey, Duffy and Dave) and includes attempts/sends of La Nina, El Nino, Buzzy land, the nearby V5 and V2. See Videos

I'm looking for a climbing partner for Freycinet and The Tasman Peninsula for a few days during March. I'll be on a family holiday and plan to slip away for some climbing on some of the following dates:

Freycinet 16th to 18th March
Tasman Peninsula 20th to 22nd March

Sport or trad, grade range 23 to 29. Keen for the Star Factory, Totem Pole and Paradiso.

If you are interested, please reply with a phone number and I'll give you a call.

Cheers,

Mike

Hi i am currently traveling around tassie doing abit of walking and climbing, i am looking for climbing partners (have own rack) , i have already climbed in the gorge and ben lomond but would love to go check out hillwood while i am still in the north. I'll be in launie until friday when i head down to hobart for a couple of weeks where i wouldn't mind having a go at the organ pipes.

Thanks in advance
Brendan

I noticed a new route which has been put up left of Ghost Rider at Hillwood. Can someone please let me know the name and first ascent details so I can update the guide.

Thankyou,

Gerry Narkowicz

Roger has added another craglets update, get it on the Craglets page. New stuff for Crescent Bay, and other bits and pieces.