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I went for a drive down Green Valley Road behind Bagdad on the weekend, and saw quite a bit of sandstone cliffs and boulders. Has anyone done any routes or problems out there? Unfortunately it all looks like its on private land. Its part of the same sandstone band as elderslie.

Also, I could see a little cliff between a gap in the hills north of kempton, looking west. Is this Apsley Edge? Or is it actually closer to apsley? Apparantly there was actually a guide produced for it a fair while back. Anyone know if the cliff is any good, and its current status?

Cheers,

Jon

Jon,

Saw your query regarding Apsley Edge and the response from Noel Ward. To get there is easy. Follow the Lake Hwy from Melton Mowbray for 6km then take RH turn to Lower Marshes. About 5km along here the road crosses the Jordan River and then a side stream (Spring Hill Creek). The "edge' is sandstone escarpment that is hidden is situated mid-way between the creek and top of the hill to your right. Access is through farmland. A walk of about 15 or so minutes. The crag is very obvious from the Lake Highway heading past the turnoff towards Bothwell.

As Noel suggests, Peter Jackson has done a route guide to the area. Likewise I have a copy of it somewhere. The routes are all fairly short and the carrots are worth being mindful about.

Adios

Al Adams

6 Comments

  1. Hi Jon,

    Spotted your reference to Apsley Edge and it sparked a memory. Having lived in the ACT for nearly 20yrs now my memory of the geography around Apsley is little faded, but the cliff you refer to may be Apsley Edge. I "discovered" it one day when descending the Den Hill, travelling from Bothwell to Kempton (I was lookin generally east). That was back in the dark ages of the early eighties, later Peter Jackson and I did a number of routes there are Peter subsequently produced one of has fabulous sketch guides, documenting the routes we did.

    Quality wise, the cliff is mostly 8-15 ish metres high, with one section a little higher. The rock, being Tassie sandstone was edgy, but a little soft (not helped by the aspect?). Its certainly not Blue Mountains quality sandstone.

    We did manage to put up perhaps a dozen routes, one by Alan Adams was thought to be about 20, the rest, reflecting our abilities, were lesser in grade. A couple were bolt protected - they were all carrots and should not be relied on at all, given their age and the nature of the rock.

    I may have one of Peter's sketch guides tucked away amoung my arm chair mountaineers collection, if people are interested....

    Cheers.
    Noel Ward
    ACT

    1. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

      Hey Noel,
      Thanks for the info, might have to go and check it out.
      Is it on private land? That seems to be the major issue these days, landowners are very, very dubious about climbers being on their land.
      I would certainly be interested in the sketch. If you can get it to me in either physical or electronic form, I'll post it on this site. Good for reference and historical interest.

      Cheers,

      Jon

  2. Anonymous

    Hi,

    Yes the cliff is on private land - we didn't have any problem with access back then - may be different now.

    I have found the sketch guide - will scan to PDF and post to this site(question) when I get a chance.

    Noel.

    1. Anonymous

      Nerms, Greg Ramsay here- if you want to get onto any private properties in this area, let me know- i know all the landowners down Apsley way, got a great B'day card in Jan by Rappaw Prints, of the SeaEagle we got out at Bridport which your parents rehabilitated!

      greg@barnbougledunes.com

  3. Anonymous

    ... how about we bulldoze Apsley Edge and build a golf course ...

  4. My best memory of visiting Apsley was when we were following Noel, Garn and Pete (and maybe Al) up the Midlands Highway. Noel was driving his old bomb and we were cruising along behind them when the boot opened a crack and an arm gradually emerged, flopping lifelessy about, almost scraping the pavement. Eventually it became obvious that Garn was up to his usual tricks as half his body emerged. Our kids, who were still quite small at the time, were gobsmacked.
    In retrospect, perhaps it was this trip which might have been what put them both off climbing. Simon was just starting to get quite good and we got him to climb with Garn. Maybe not such a good idea at the time! Still, we had a lot of fun with the Climbers Club of Tasmania in those day on these club days.