<guide version="3">
<header access="To access, walk L along the Organ Pipes Track from the junction of the carpark access track, for about 150m to the first path leading up R (GPS MTW030). Follow the path up through boulders to meet the buttress near Bert's Fear, an obvious body-width chimney. Most routes finish on the big ledge at the top of Brown Madonna. &lt;br/&gt;Descent: Most routes utilise the rap station on the ledge at the top of Brown Madonna (50m). A rap station also exists higher up, at the top of Bert's Fear: (1) 15m from boulder to ledge; (2) 35m to Brown Madonna terrace (GPS MTW170)." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Flange Buttress is a popular crag with a large number of quality routes, a warm, sunny spot, great on a cool day or even in winter. It is the compact reddish buttress that forms the southern end of the Columns. The deep chimney of Brown Madonna flags the RH end and start of Flange Buttress, while Pooch Gully marks the LH end." name="Flange Buttress" rock="Dolerite faces and aretes, up to 50m. Quite a few sport routes." sun="Morning sun" walk="20 min uphill" id="1"/><image src="Flange Lower Print.jpg" width="500" id="2" legend="true" legendTitle="Flange Buttress" legendx="0" legendy="0" legendExtraPage="1107" legendInsertExtraBefore="true">null<legend>1107:78</legend><legend>6</legend><legend>7</legend><legend>10</legend><legend>15</legend><legend>17</legend><legend>19</legend></image><climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="49m" name="Brown Madonna" number="" stars="***" id="3" fa="K. Carrigan, G. Child, Feb 1978.">"Brown Lady will you marry me?" quoth the Jake. An elegant route with all the qualities of consistency, length of pitch and fantastic pro. Above the daunting chimney is a sustained crack and corner system of gob-smacking brilliance. Climb the chimney to where it narrows before traversing out and up. Continue up the imposing crack line and blind corner to the large ledge and rap anchors.</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="55m" name="Pleasant Screams" number="" stars="***" id="4" fa="S. Edwards, Dec 1996.">Tasmania's 'To Bolt or Not To Be'. The face L of Brown Madonna.
1. 20m 25. Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay. Worth working in its own right.
2. 35m 26. Continue up the amazing face above past another 12 U's, at 2/3 height move R into Brown Madonna before returning to the line and up to the anchors. It may be worth wearing a helmet for the flakes on the first pitch.</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="29 " length="50m " name="Pleasant Screams Direct " number="" stars="***" id="5" fa="S. Parsons, Mar 2007.">This variant is a single mega pitch that follows the line (and bolts) to the top. Start on the face and climb to a 'rest' about 2 bolts below the hanging belay. Once 'recovered' follow the line of bolts to the top, staying on the face.</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="50m" name="After Midnight" number="AM" stars="***" id="6" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1995.">A modern classic that is consistent quality all the way. Demonstrates what can be done with school holidays and a nickel-cadmium power-pack. The arête between Brown Madonna and Digitalis. Fifteen quick draws required en-route plus something to clip into the abseil anchors.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="62m" name="Digitalis" number="DI" stars="**" id="7" fa=" J. Moore, R. Williams. FFA: D. Bowman, M. Steane, Dec 1977. Direct Finish: P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, Dec. 2011.">A distinctive line with a very unlikely traverse. Start at the first crack system around the arête L of Brown Madonna.
1. 26m	Climb the crack through a small overlap and continue past large detached flake to belay at base of corner.
2a. 36m	Original route (a classic). Bridge and jam the corner for 26m. When a jug behind a small flake on the R wall is reached, traverse boldly out L across the wall to the exposed arête. Continue up, trend L and then up past large loose flake to belay.
2b. 34m	Direct Finish. Instead of traversing L, continue up the corner. A couple of metres or so below the tree, an easy step L can be made out onto the exposed arête, or finish up the dirty corner behind the tree.
Descent: scramble R to the rap station at the top of Brown Madonna.
</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="40m" name="The Cuts" number="" stars="**" id="8" fa="Face and Arête: D. Stevenson, J. Otlowski, 1996; Corner: H. &amp; M. Jackson, Mar 1998.">A brilliant and intimidating line on the arête and face between Big Sticks and Beatings and Digitalis. Step L off the ledge at the start of Digitalis to head up face to arête at 15m. Continue up just R of arête via thin moves (crux), then run it out to the small ledge. Climb the corner above which merges with Digitalis (1/2 - 3/4 cam important) or alternatively traverse L along ledge, around arête to the bolt belay on Neon God.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="40m" name="Big Sticks and Beatings" stars="**" id="9" fa="N. Deka, S. Bunton, 1989.">A sustained excursion up the wall R of Neon God. Climb the thin crack, moving R at 10m to pass the thinnest section. Continue up the shallow corner, then traverse R to Digitalis and belay on ledge.  Finish up Digitalis</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="50m" name="Neon God" number="NG" stars="***" id="10" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1997.">Simply irresistible! Join the mob.
1. 25m 22. The popular 1st pitch follows the straight line of U-bolts on the wall to the R of Fiddlesticks.
2. 25m 25. The second pitch is better, but is climbed less. Continue up the line past a thin and technical crux at about one-third height. Rap anchors.</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="25m" name=" The Holy Road" number="" stars="**" id="11" fa="R. Parkyn, Jan 1997.">A less demanding RH alternative to the second pitch of Neon God. The crux is passing the second U-bolt.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="14" length="55m" name="Fiddlesticks" number="" stars="***" id="12" fa="T. Terry, G. Wyatt, 1967.">A classic, and being one of the relatively few quality easier climbs on the Pipes, it sees a lot of traffic. Good pro and a sunny aspect add to the attraction. Start 16m uphill and north of Bert's Fear, next to Neon God. Scramble up to the base of the corner containing twin cracks.
1. 30m. Straight up the corner, belaying in the notch on the L.
2. 25m. Either climb the flakes on the wall and traverse R into the main crack line, or step directly into the line from near the belay. Follow the line until you either step around the arête to climb the LH wall or continue up the vee-groove to a large ledge and Brown Madonna rap station. Very classy climbing. The original finish, up the last pitch of Bert's Fear to the top (45m), is rarely repeated these days.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="21 " length="30m" name="Stick To It " number="" stars="" id="13" fa="D. Gray, May 2004.">Climb the first pitch of Fiddlesticks to about half height, just below small roof on the L wall. Traverse L, pull through roof, then follow thin cracks above.</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="35m" name="Chop Sticks The Sequel" number="" stars="**" id="14" fa="A. Williams, D. Gray, May 2004. First 8m were climbed by H. &amp; M. Jackson, Jan 2000 (as Chop Sticks 18). ">Start at the base of Fiddlesticks and climb the L arête. Straightforward climbing past a couple of small to mid-size cams and a bolt leads to the Precarious ledge, followed by excellent arête climbing on good rock (one of the bolts is around on the RH face but stay on the arête). Take a large wire or 0.5 Camalot for higher up. DBB on final pillar.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="40m" name="Precarious" number="" stars="***" id="15" fa="A. Keller, M. Tillema, 1969. FFA: I. Baker, D. Bowman, Feb 1979.">Persistence always pays off and this route is no exception. Start 7m R of Bert's Fear at a shallow corner.
1. 30m. Crux. Climb the corner past an awkward move to a ledge. Step R, organise your "pro" and climb a short face to the next ledge.
2. 10m. Climb L and up to abseil point.</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="20m" name="Alex's Thing" number="" stars="*" id="16" fa="Credited to A. Wilson, Mar 2004.">An unintentional ethical faux pas. The route provides an alternative 2nd pitch to the old classic. Originally a project of the credited first ascentionist, until his red tag went astray. It received two ascents by the unsuspecting N. Hancock and A. Williams.
1. Climb the first pitch of Precarious to the belay. 
2. Start on the LH face of the arête for a few moves then trend L following a line of fixed hangers to the "Fiddlesticks" ledge. Ether abseil off a large hakea or continue up Fiddlesticks to Brown Madonna rap station. </climb><climb extra="↓" grade="12" length="125m" name="Bert's Fear" number="BF" stars="*" id="17" fa="U. Aurelli, D. Cox, J. Fairhall, Mar 1962.">Body chimneys are not everybody's cup of tea, or are they? The distinct chimney 10m R of the lowest point of Flange Buttress makes for an interesting day out.
1. 25m. Climb the body-width chimney to belay on at a stance with threaded slings..
2. 25m. Climb the even narrower chimney on the LH side of the buttress above to access the crest of the ridge.
3. 30m. Follow the broken buttress to a tree and up the steeper wall above to the Brown Madonna terrace (with rap station at far RH end).
4. 45m. Follow the crest of the buttress above to the top. A rap station at the top (GPS MTW170) facilitates descent: 15m from boulder to ledge; 35m to Brown Madonna terrace; 50m to ground.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Spitters" number="" stars="*" id="18" fa="D. Fife, S. Parsons, et al. Nov 1982.">A serious undertaking. The scary wall between Bert's Fear and Just a Little Bit Longer. Climb diagonally L on dubious face holds to a flake in the middle of the wall (marginal pro). Move up to a small roof, pull around this into a groove, and then hard moves lead to a corner crack. Continue up wall to belay as for Just a Little Bit Longer. Abseil from tree.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="Just A Little Bit Longer" number="JL" stars="**" id="19" fa="S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, Apr 1981.">Thought provoking face climbing on loose terrain. The face route 5m L of Bert's Fear and immediately R of the arête. Climb the thin line for 6m, trend slightly L and head for a spike on the arête (crux). Gear placements among the tenuous flakes do little to inspire confidence, although the gear (RPs) improves dramatically the closer you get to the spike. Continue up on the other side of the arête for 2m, then move back R and follow the corner and face above to rap slings on the LH of two trees.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Ring of Fire" number="" stars="*" id="20" fa="M. Jackson, H. Jackson, Mar 1998.">Balancy test piece roughly following the arête (on its L face) between Just a Little Bit Longer and Slippery Sensation. A bombproof #3 RP in a groove on the arête protects the crux on an otherwise run-out climb. Continue up Just a Little Bit Longer after the spike on the arête is reached. Descend by abseil from tree.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="30m" name="Slipper" stars="**" id="21" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jan 1998.">Start as for Slippery Sensation. Climb the RH crack for 7m and instead of traversing L into the LH crack, go straight up the wall. Near the top traverse toward the bush on the L. Descend by abseil from tree.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="25m" name="Slippery Sensation" number="" stars="**" id="22" fa="S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, A. Wing, Apr 1981.">Provides a guaranteed workout. Around the arête L of Just a Little Bit Longer is a thin crack line splitting the steep south facing wall. Climb the RH crack for 7m, move into the LH one, and continue up into a scoop. Finger jam through the bulge and continue to just below a bush. Traverse L and around the arête to belay at the rap station at the top of Nefarious (25m rap).</climb><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="25m" name=" Nefarious" number="" stars="**" id="23" fa="R. Parkyn, Jan 1996.">A quality route for the sport-heads. The arête and face between Pooch Gully and Slippery Sensation. The crux is towards the top (some of the bolts after this are not visible from below).</climb><climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="24" length="20m" name="Drama Queen" number="" stars="" id="24" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1997.">Straight up the nose of the minor buttress 10m L of Nefarious. A crack (natural gear) leads to 3 bolts up the arête.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="8" length="100m" name="Pooch Gully" number="" stars="" id="25" fa="P. Sands, J. Spinks, Mar 1962 (assisted by a Golden Labrador in the lower stages).">A vegetated  route to the top of Flange Buttress. The line can be varied at will. Follow the gully to the rap anchors at the top of Brown Madonna.</climb></guide>