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  1. Sandy Bay Road needs larger gear fro the whole route, not just the first 8m (depending on your own comfort level). There are limited placements smaller than #4 anywhere on the route 

    1. It was originally climbed by Les with hexs and slings, but I guess times have changed. I wouldn't call it "Trad heaven, a fabulous pitch" as in the guide though. There are more enjoyable  cracks.

    2. I've updated the route so it is clearer now.

      I got loads of smaller gear in along the way but you are right #4's is the key. I usually walk a #4 for the whole route leaving smaller gear along the way but if you had 5x #4's you could just lead the route with those.

      I love this route, trad heaven is a good description in my option (smile)

  2. Ripped one of the better holds off the first pitch of Tularaemia today, between the 7th and 8th bolt. The pitch is no easier as a result.