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  1. Sandy Bay Road needs larger gear fro the whole route, not just the first 8m (depending on your own comfort level). There are limited placements smaller than #4 anywhere on the route 

    1. It was originally climbed by Les with hexs and slings, but I guess times have changed. I wouldn't call it "Trad heaven, a fabulous pitch" as in the guide though. There are more enjoyable  cracks.

    2. I've updated the route so it is clearer now.

      I got loads of smaller gear in along the way but you are right #4's is the key. I usually walk a #4 for the whole route leaving smaller gear along the way but if you had 5x #4's you could just lead the route with those.

      I love this route, trad heaven is a good description in my option (smile)

  2. Ripped one of the better holds off the first pitch of Tularaemia today, between the 7th and 8th bolt. The pitch is no easier as a result.

  3. Climbed Hakea ground up with A Donoghue and Shumita today and found it to be rather dirty and wet inside the crack - even though Bismark and Sorrow (the usual markers of seasonal seepage) were dry. The thrutch factor was also notable. You have been warned!

  4. Mmm?   I don't recall all that, though I see we  first did it in a February. It has been fairly wet until now this season. I wonder if something has changed in the crack system during the 20 years since the first ascent.. And it seemed to be only 21 then. It has probably had few ascents, too old school perhaps.

  5. Hamish, Christoph,   It has been a wet  early season and as is often the case in summer things dry soon, some quicker than others. Re edited just now after recent ascents and cleaning.(i.e. your comments summarised, we don't need an essay on every climb). Many early climbs that have not been done often will be like this and need attention. I can also understand why Adam and Shumita were not keen on such a route! It's there as a challenge anyway.  Phil

  6. Added a few more lines to the topo's for Cossack Column to aid route finding.  If any of the old guard want to confirm the lines that'd be appreciated.  I doubt some of these are done all that often.